Rallye 350 heater core and paint
#1
Rallye 350 heater core and paint
have a rallye that needs a heater core, is the chassis manual what i need? any advice out there? it's an ac model.
also, tcp global advertises a lacquer paint in sebring yellow, anybody out there have any experience with their stuff?
thanks, mike
also, tcp global advertises a lacquer paint in sebring yellow, anybody out there have any experience with their stuff?
thanks, mike
#2
welcome to CO. you will find all kinds of help here. for the heater core, i think the body manual is what you want. i put one in my Rallye 350 but it was not an A/C car. i can't help with the paint but there are some very good professional painters here that can help. i am sure they will drop in soon. do you have any pictures of your car?
Last edited by jensenracing77; February 13th, 2010 at 03:12 AM.
#3
Welcome to the site Mike!
To replace the heater core you'll have to undo the fasteners for the under dash box from under the hood. To do that I like to remove the front tire and the inner fender liner. From under the fender you can see the nuts that go around the fiberglass box that holds the AC parts and the fan motor. Once those nuts are removed you can gently wiggle and pull the under dash box loose and out, it has the threaded studs attached to it. The under dash box will still have the cable (1 or 2, I don't remember!) from the dash controls attached and a vacuum hose or two. You can look at it and decide if you want to remove the cables and pull the box all the way out of the car or just swap the core there on the floorboard. From what I remember the core has one bracket/clip with one fastener that holds it in the box. Expect to get some coolant spilling when you remove the under dash box. That's the main steps to get it out, but there are a few more things such as draining the radiator and removing the hoses from the firewall under the hood before taking things apart. Time consuming but not a difficult task. John
I hadn't mentioned earlier you'll also need to remove the defroster vent lines that attach to the under dash box. If you plan to do more work to your car I'd encourage you get some reference books. I do use the Chassis Service Manual often and you can see these listed on ebay on a regular basis. If your patient you can find decent used ones for maybe $20-40 each or reproduction ones for $75ish. It's also available on CD if you wanted to go that route.
To replace the heater core you'll have to undo the fasteners for the under dash box from under the hood. To do that I like to remove the front tire and the inner fender liner. From under the fender you can see the nuts that go around the fiberglass box that holds the AC parts and the fan motor. Once those nuts are removed you can gently wiggle and pull the under dash box loose and out, it has the threaded studs attached to it. The under dash box will still have the cable (1 or 2, I don't remember!) from the dash controls attached and a vacuum hose or two. You can look at it and decide if you want to remove the cables and pull the box all the way out of the car or just swap the core there on the floorboard. From what I remember the core has one bracket/clip with one fastener that holds it in the box. Expect to get some coolant spilling when you remove the under dash box. That's the main steps to get it out, but there are a few more things such as draining the radiator and removing the hoses from the firewall under the hood before taking things apart. Time consuming but not a difficult task. John
I hadn't mentioned earlier you'll also need to remove the defroster vent lines that attach to the under dash box. If you plan to do more work to your car I'd encourage you get some reference books. I do use the Chassis Service Manual often and you can see these listed on ebay on a regular basis. If your patient you can find decent used ones for maybe $20-40 each or reproduction ones for $75ish. It's also available on CD if you wanted to go that route.
#4
Just to clarify, the heater core replacement is covered in the Chassis Service Manual, not the Fisher Body Manual. The hardest part of this task is removing the RH fender. The bottom bolts behind the wheel opening are nearly always rusted to the clip nuts, which causes the clip nut to snap and just spin. The only option is to cut the head of the bolt off with a die grinder or cutoff wheel then replace the clip nuts when the fender is off. Removing the inner fender is another option, but again, the clip nuts on the plastic inner fender frequently snap and spin, so this is not always a better way to go.
#5
Just to clarify, the heater core replacement is covered in the Chassis Service Manual, not the Fisher Body Manual. The hardest part of this task is removing the RH fender. The bottom bolts behind the wheel opening are nearly always rusted to the clip nuts, which causes the clip nut to snap and just spin. The only option is to cut the head of the bolt off with a die grinder or cutoff wheel then replace the clip nuts when the fender is off. Removing the inner fender is another option, but again, the clip nuts on the plastic inner fender frequently snap and spin, so this is not always a better way to go.
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