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Hey, I'm new to the site This is my car all original 46,000 miles 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. I need to get it running again car has been setting for 15 years what a good source to get parts. Thanks
I'd do an assessment first. Drop it, pull the level meter, then clean it out. If you know it's rusted, etc., and is in bad shape, then perhaps. If you find you need a new tank, I'd suggest to get a spectra premium tank without the neck, and get your tank's neck replaced into the new tank. Not sure if they've fixed the issue but the spectra tanks used to have necks that cut the fuel filler nozzles off early and or would shoot gas out the neck at top off. Not a good thing.
If you drop the tank and pull the sender, at least try and replace the pickup sock. GM p/n 5651702, aka Delco TS1000. They're discontinued so, that may be hard to find. Closest sock I could find as a replacement for it that won't break the bank is from Jeg's. JEGS 78538: Fuel Tank Sending Unit Strainer for 1954-1988 GM Cars and Trucks - JEGS
Might as well replace the fuel pump too as no telling how long that's been sitting there with alcohol fuel in it. Not that you have to, but if you're gong to drop the tank, it's a might as well. Delphi MF0006 or equivalent. Same with the Delco GF471 or equivalent fuel filter in the carburetor.
Be advised the newer aftermarket pumps fit to the block kind of strange. No matter what the pictures show you currently.
Air filter element should be A348C or equivalent.
Also, check your vacuum lines under the hood from and to all the emission stuff. It's 36 years old and those lines can dry rot and crack.
That should get your fuel and intake system in decent order.
I'd do an assessment first. Drop it, pull the level meter, then clean it out. If you know it's rusted, etc., and is in bad shape, then perhaps. If you find you need a new tank, I'd suggest to get a spectra premium tank without the neck, and get your tank's neck replaced into the new tank. Not sure if they've fixed the issue but the spectra tanks used to have necks that cut the fuel filler nozzles off early and or would shoot gas out the neck at top off. Not a good thing.
If you drop the tank and pull the sender, at least try and replace the pickup sock. GM p/n 5651702, aka Delco TS1000. They're discontinued so, that may be hard to find. Closest sock I could find as a replacement for it that won't break the bank is from Jeg's. JEGS 78538: Fuel Tank Sending Unit Strainer for 1954-1988 GM Cars and Trucks - JEGS
Might as well replace the fuel pump too as no telling how long that's been sitting there with alcohol fuel in it. Not that you have to, but if you're gong to drop the tank, it's a might as well. Delphi MF0006 or equivalent. Same with the Delco GF471 or equivalent fuel filter in the carburetor.
Be advised the newer aftermarket pumps fit to the block kind of strange. No matter what the pictures show you currently.
Air filter element should be A348C or equivalent.
Also, check your vacuum lines under the hood from and to all the emission stuff. It's 36 years old and those lines can dry rot and crack.
That should get your fuel and intake system in decent order.
thanks great info. We’re those are electronic ignition I assume just changing the plugs and oil and filter and what you suggested and try to crank ?
Here's my free advice as this is how I would approach it. Follow it or not, not my car, do what you wish.
After checking out the fuel system and getting that where you want it, if it hasn't been cranked at all in 15 years, I'd suggest at minimum changing the oil and filter and probably coolant, hoses, and belts. Then remove all spark plugs and get new ones, FR3LS6 or equivalent (set them to 0.045" instead of .060". You'll thank me later.) and squirting a bit of lightweight oil or spraying WD40 or something in the spark plug holes to lubricate all the cylinders prior to turning it over. No need to go crazy there, but some people do it, and others do it dry. You do you. Then, before moving the engine an inch, I would mark the positions of the housing to the block, and then rotor to the housing and pull the distributor out. Taking a 5/16" socket taped to an extension and reversable drill setting it to reverse, and priming the oil system for a few minutes to get fresh oil to all the moving parts again. Reinstall the distributor back in the same spot you got it out, or at least as close as humanly possible. It should fire right up if you do it right. Now you can put a big socket (1-1/8" I think? Been a long time.) on the end of the crank shaft and manually rotate the crank around making sure the engine will rotate freely. Then reinstall the plugs or put in new plugs and recoonnect the wires, etc. Ensure your battery is strong and charged.
At this point your car should be ready to crank via the key. If you haven't primed the fuel system, you can do that now if you want. I'd use a mighty vac or something like that to manually draw a vacuum on the fuel line from the pump suction rubber line to get fuel into the line and up to the pump. This should minimize cranking time.
Make sure the A/C is in the off position, and crank the engine and try to limit crank time to 10 seconds or so and letting it cool down a little in between attempts. You have an R4 compressor and people never stop to think about the 4 cylinders inside the compressor. The pistons move up and down in their cylinders as the shaft rotates, but when they're at their bottom of their stroke, the piston seal is partially exposed. If it sits that way for years, the seal expands and is a real PITA to get moving again. You would have to move the end rotor plate to rotate the cylinders. DON'T try to rotate it using the shaft nut. You'll be sorry if you do. You need to get the compressor rotating again. The pull-in magnet won't be strong enough and metal to metal faces will slip and burn if you just flip on the A/C when the seals are expanded. You'll need to manually rotate the compressor about 1/2 turn and let it sit that way for a short while. You can always leave the A/C belt off until you get round to it, as A/C maintenance can be dealt with after getting the car running again.
Others may do it differently. But this is what I would do.
also without sounding stupid how do I replace the new with my old neck ?
You could take it to a radiator shop and have them de-solder it from the old tank and re-solder it into your new tank, if that's what you want to do. Sometimes they'll fill the old tank with water to prevent any unwelcome flames as they do it, or some have other methods. I'd drop the tank and clean it out and inspect first. No need to replace the tank if it just needs some cleanup. But you'll have to make that call. You can always order a new tank later if you find you need one.
Here's my free advice as this is how I would approach it. Follow it or not, not my car, do what you wish.
After checking out the fuel system and getting that where you want it, if it hasn't been cranked at all in 15 years, I'd suggest at minimum changing the oil and filter and probably coolant, hoses, and belts. Then remove all spark plugs and get new ones, FR3LS6 or equivalent (set them to 0.045" instead of .060". You'll thank me later.) and squirting a bit of lightweight oil or spraying WD40 or something in the spark plug holes to lubricate all the cylinders prior to turning it over. No need to go crazy there, but some people do it, and others do it dry. You do you. Then, before moving the engine an inch, I would mark the positions of the housing to the block, and then rotor to the housing and pull the distributor out. Taking a 5/16" socket taped to an extension and reversable drill setting it to reverse, and priming the oil system for a few minutes to get fresh oil to all the moving parts again. Reinstall the distributor back in the same spot you got it out, or at least as close as humanly possible. It should fire right up if you do it right. Now you can put a big socket (1-1/8" I think? Been a long time.) on the end of the crank shaft and manually rotate the crank around making sure the engine will rotate freely. Then reinstall the plugs or put in new plugs and recoonnect the wires, etc. Ensure your battery is strong and charged.
At this point your car should be ready to crank via the key. If you haven't primed the fuel system, you can do that now if you want. I'd use a mighty vac or something like that to manually draw a vacuum on the fuel line from the pump suction rubber line to get fuel into the line and up to the pump. This should minimize cranking time.
Make sure the A/C is in the off position, and crank the engine and try to limit crank time to 10 seconds or so and letting it cool down a little in between attempts. You have an R4 compressor and people never stop to think about the 4 cylinders inside the compressor. The pistons move up and down in their cylinders as the shaft rotates, but when they're at their bottom of their stroke, the piston seal is partially exposed. If it sits that way for years, the seal expands and is a real PITA to get moving again. You would have to move the end rotor plate to rotate the cylinders. DON'T try to rotate it using the shaft nut. You'll be sorry if you do. You need to get the compressor rotating again. The pull-in magnet won't be strong enough and metal to metal faces will slip and burn if you just flip on the A/C when the seals are expanded. You'll need to manually rotate the compressor about 1/2 turn and let it sit that way for a short while. You can always leave the A/C belt off until you get round to it, as A/C maintenance can be dealt with after getting the car running again.
Others may do it differently. But this is what I would do.
great info you don’t live near Concord,NC do you 😀
You could take it to a radiator shop and have them de-solder it from the old tank and re-solder it into your new tank, if that's what you want to do. Sometimes they'll fill the old tank with water to prevent any unwelcome flames as they do it, or some have other methods. I'd drop the tank and clean it out and inspect first. No need to replace the tank if it just needs some cleanup. But you'll have to make that call. You can always order a new tank later if you find you need one.
I have never tried to clean a old tank would not know where to start
IF you NEED a tank. I recently installed spectra tanks and senders in my 87 cutlass and my 84 Delta 88. Use the tanks with the neck installed. Save your self a lot of aggravation. Shop the part number on Google. Big price difference between venders. The only "issue" with both tanks was the flanges were the 2 halves come together. You have to carefully bend them to match the original tank. Or the tank wont fit right. Replace the senders and all the rubber lines. I have other info about the senders but I hate typing. Feel free to pm if it comes down to changing the tank. Cruzzn 66 is a member here. He has a lot of G body parts, New and old Great to work with
IF you NEED a tank. I recently installed spectra tanks and senders in my 87 cutlass and my 84 Delta 88. Use the tanks with the neck installed. Save your self a lot of aggravation. Shop the part number on Google. Big price difference between venders. The only "issue" with both tanks was the flanges were the 2 halves come together. You have to carefully bend them to match the original tank. Or the tank wont fit right. Replace the senders and all the rubber lines. I have other info about the senders but I hate typing. Feel free to pm if it comes down to changing the tank. Cruzzn 66 is a member here. He has a lot of G body parts, New and old Great to work with
Unfortunately, no. They don’t make assembly manuals aka PIMs for the 80s cars. They made them true, but nobody’s got any. About the closest you can get is Engineering specifications books.loaded with part numbers and some engineering drawings.
Service manuals yes. It's called the CSM. Make sure to get one that includes "supreme"
$35 shipped or make offer. Consider these were about $199 back in the day when available from Helm.
IF you NEED a tank. I recently installed spectra tanks and senders in my 87 cutlass and my 84 Delta 88. Use the tanks with the neck installed. Save your self a lot of aggravation. Shop the part number on Google. Big price difference between venders. The only "issue" with both tanks was the flanges were the 2 halves come together. You have to carefully bend them to match the original tank. Or the tank wont fit right. Replace the senders and all the rubber lines. I have other info about the senders but I hate typing. Feel free to pm if it comes down to changing the tank. Cruzzn 66 is a member here. He has a lot of G body parts, New and old Great to work with
When did you change out the tanks? Curious to know if or when Spectra ever got their **** together on "fixing" the splash back issue they had with their original G-body tank necks, but that was a few years ago. Had something to do with the bend in the neck or something wasn't quite right and it didn't vent correctly. And the charcoal canister vent line can't bleed out the filling pressure by itself when refueling.
The tanks were designed in the 70s when the gas pumps didn't flow as fast as they do now so that may be part of the problem as well. Putting in the original GM neck generally helped to fix that issue. If they have fixed the neck issue, then by all means buy the one with the neck already installed. Of course if you fill it slowly, there may not be any issues.
I heard they made the vent holes larger to help resolve the issue, but I don't know. Either way, if you have fuel splashing back out every few gallons or so, check the neck vents. If you have splashback you could put a screwdriver in the vents and open them up a bit more. I don't know.
