My first passion is my 67 Cougar standard, and just parted out my brother's 68 Skylark convertible, which had a 455 Olds rocket out of a 70(?) station wagon - just weren't any BB buicks around. Been on mercurycougar.net and v8buick.com the last 5 years, searching for parts/self service stuff.

The Buick 350 2-barrel met with a thrown rod right before Christmas years ago. Would it be money better served porting the cast iron intake runners/outlets over finding an Edlebrock or Offenhauser dual plane? Is the HP gain worth it?

Also, I've never been confident messing with carbs, and the original Rochester (I believe) quadrajet was performing fine - after the engine warmed up (heat choke issues?). Saw eBay carb kits for sale for about $20. Should I go that route instead of finding an Edelbrock/Holley aftermarket?

Lastly, what are the block/head casting number deciphers as far as year/performance specs? Will check the site later tonight for this info too. Thanks, Eric

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/089...4E4JT1J88VK6A4

Good book if your rebuilding quadrajet... I did mine having never touched a carburetor before in my life with only that book and the guys on here.

Ebay may or may not be ok... there are only a few companies that make kits so if it is one of the manufactured kits it will be fine parts-wise, but you could probably get the exact same kit 2 days faster for the same price from your local NAPA - if it is some ding-bat that is cutting his own gaskets and building kits i would be sure you trust the ding-bat...

For the heads check out the tech section here and specifically the head section here

 

Welcome to CO. The iron 4bbl manifolds work fine for a stock 455, no need to port it. Keep the quadrajet, I think they are fine carburetors and if you have confidence in your ability to rebuild a carb then do it. Glad to have you here.

 

It would have been better that the oldsmobile would have some good oldsmobile repair in order to really compensate all the things that you have there. In that way, thing can be different even if you only have the oldsmobile instead of the current vehicles. It is a good work class in the end after all. Just try to hang on to it!

 

What casting numbers do you have on the heads and block?

 

^^ I would also like to know which letter heads you have

If the 455 is out of a 70 wagon you most likely have "E" heads (403686) but I doubt you have the W33 & W34 heads or the "F" heads (w30 heads)

The difference between the 2 heads is the W heads have a 30* intake valve instead of 45* valves on both intake and exhaust

The block in 1970 is 396021F. In fact I think all the 455's where that

 

I just checked and found the 403| 686, with the big E on the back top of the head near the exhaust. Oddly or not, I have a much larger F on the block halfway up the far passenger side of the block.

Numbers on the block, right hear the distributor, were 5, and right below that was 245, as best I could tell. The intake had 410448 along one of the front runners, with a D2, space and 8 right below the 410448.

Will upload a few pics tomorrow night. Those dished pistons have to go! Next up is to get the exhaust bolt out. Planning to whach it a bit straight on, then weld a nut onto it and see if that will do the trick. It's less than an inch out of the head. Eric.

 

I whacked on a nice large nut onto the exhaust bolt that was sticking out of the head. Now, I need to tackle the intake bolt that is barely sticking out of the head. I may try to create a head weld on the bolt, then try to fit a nut on it. The bad thing is that it's at an angle in the head.

 

All the valves but one looked like ordinary wear and carbon buildup on my 455 70 head. What would cause that one exhaust valve to be orange on the backside. It also did not have any carbon/black around where it sealed to the head? It had traces of orange as well. Very odd indeed. I saw no traces of the same in the exhaust port/cup.

Also, I tried my best to get a solid weld/nut on the intake bolt that snapped off near the base. Would NAPA or other machine shops provide such a service? What's a reasonable price? Maybe worth just trying to find another 70 head? Eric.

 

Soak it with penetrating oil while you go get a set of 'easy-outs'!
Save time and money - DIY!!!

 

I do have a set of easy-outs, but am unsure which drill bit size to use to drill into the broken off bolt. It's also at an angle, so will be harder to do by hand drill. I do have a drill press. Anyone know the angle I should raise the front of the head on the drill press base? Looks like maybe 15 degrees? Just gotta give it the old try...

I looked at the pistons again, and all of them, including the one related to the orange exhaust valve, have the carbon build-up on them. Shouldn't there be a much cleaner piston top related to that valve?

Would I have to have the machinist tank the head, blast then magnaflux it to find where any cracks might be? How much do they cost nowadays? The head in question is the driver's side, and is nearest the firewall.

 

Use a level - works at the machine shop on a mill!!

 

I saw an article in Hot Rod mag that mentioned C&S Performance in Butler, WI, which was right on my way to work. Figured that'd be a perfect place to take the oxidized-looking valve and head. Well, the guy there showed me that the valve seat had recessed. Not sure on root cause, but sure was a downer. Don't think I'm going to waste any money on the heads, so for now I'll just park the block in the corner, pending my finding a good donor car that'll accommodate the engine/T350.