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Recently picked up a '68 442. It appears mostly original (still has drums and factory radio). Must have set a lot as its got a new radiator, pump and now I've found a few rotten freeze plugs in addition to some oil leaks. This site seems to be the most informative. Hope you all won't mind me asking for your input as I get it back to reliable driver status.
Here's a question for the '68 experts. My wiper switch is missing the bezel nut, however the switch threads barely extend past the face of the mounting holes. It doesn't look as though I could even get an old radio shaft nut on it. Is this normal? What is the deal with my wiper ****? It has a metal insert in it, but slides freely over the wiper shaft. Is this supposed to have knurling or something to make it grip?
Anyway, I'm guessing there will be more questions like these as I get further into it.
Here's a question for the '68 experts. My wiper switch is missing the bezel nut, however the switch threads barely extend past the face of the mounting holes. It doesn't look as though I could even get an old radio shaft nut on it. Is this normal? What is the deal with my wiper ****?
Brian
Welcome to the group... Provided your switch is correct and/or original to the vehicle, the bezel nut most likely will compensate for the thread length of the switch... Good luck in your search for a bezel nut... There is a good chance you will find one here from a member who is into 68's...
I used to post pics to forums, but PhotoBucket killed all my pics and I don't have much appetite for it these days. Is there some photo hosting site you recommend? I see that this site might let me upload directly, but I couldn't get it to work. It would show 90% uploaded and then stall out.
As for the setscrew, will have to check. It seems odd that it would just be a spring loaded ferrule.
Once I figure out what is going on with the switch, may post a "wanted" in the classifieds. I notice there is a fellow in the OKC area that parts out Cutlasses.
There is no setscrew in the wiper switch ****, and yes that metal insert is supposed to grab on the hex OD of the shaft. You might check to be sure the switch is indexed properly from the back to allow it to come through the dash opening fully. I think there is a tab that keeps the switch from rotating that, if not indexed properly on the backside of the dash, prevents the threads from coming through enough to allow a thin nut to be threaded on. I'm pretty sure the threads are the same as any old radio shaft nut. You might need to get some needle-nose pliers to pull that "spring loaded ferrule" out of the **** so that you can re-shape it (I suspect its been rounded out over the years) so that it looks hex-ish again. I've had the same problem on mine.
Cherish that factory radio and its *****, they are unique to the '68s.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; Feb 26, 2019 at 09:37 AM.
The design just looks poor. Round **** ID over a round post switch and somehow transmits torque to turn on the switch? Shouldn't there be a flat or something?
The design just looks poor. Round **** ID over a round post switch and somehow transmits torque to turn on the switch? Shouldn't there be a flat or something?
Nah, you are looking at the wrong thing in that picture. The hex portion that switches from OFF/LO/HI is just beyond the threaded portion and is hex shaped and rotates. The round end at the tip of that shaft is the washer button that is pressed in (momentarily) to activate the washer pump. The brass shaft between the button and the hex-shaped portion is the plunger for the washer switch. If the motor switch is in the OFF position, pressing the washer button not only activates the washer pump, but rotates the switch to the LO position. The ferrule in the black plastic )( -shaped **** should be shaped to grip the hex portion that rotates. While the hole in the black plastic **** is round, the metal ferrule bites the ID of the plastic hole to prevent it from rotating. Indeed, it is not a robust design, which is why it is easy to over-power and round-out the metal ferrule.
Now that explanation makes sense. Thanks for that. I'll crawl under the dash tonight and pull the whole thing out so I can get a close look. Sweet looking '68 by the way. I've always had a thing for the '68 with it's quirky headlight treatment. As soon as I get some pointers on how to post pics, I'll post the 442. It's not nearly as pretty as yours though, so don't get too excited....
Carefully read & follow the instructions. Sometimes if you're trying to UPLOAD many images at the same time, it might stall (but shouldn't). Try posting one picture then another.
Welcome to this site! It's a great place for Olds-specific information and expertise. I've enjoyed it for several years and it's the best Oldsmobile site going to this day!
Randy C.
'68 4-4-2 convertible (Best In Class at the 2011 OCA Nationals in Reno NV)
'69 4-4-2 convertible (the one I like to drive!)
I used a radio/choke shaft thin nut on my switch and it works well.
I still have a few of those in my hardware bins. Got a lot of irons in the fire right now, but it’s on my Saturday morning (before i get greasy) to do list.
Nice looking.
If you post a picture of the cowl tag many members can decipher for you original color, manufacturing location, etc.
Do you own a 1968 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual (CSM)? They come in handy.
Alright. Good to go, Brian. I can decipher my own numbers from the front pages of my 1971 CSM (except for the paint, equipment codes), but I'd be incorrect in deciphering your 1968. Several others will be able to decipher & validate your 1968 numbers for you I'm certain. Hang in there. It does look like the original engine from the image you posted of the VIN derivative number.
I'll take a stab at your VIN - others can validate or invalidate.
344678E169482
3 = Division (Oldsmobile) 4 = Series (Body Type 'A') 4 = Engine Type (V8) 67 = Body Style (Convertible)
From the above 34467 = SERIES 442 (All 442 vehicles would have been of series 34400 = 442. If 00 = 87, then Hardtop Coupe; if 00 = 67, then Convertible) 8 = Model Year (1968) E = Plant (Linden, New Jersey) 169482 = Plant Sequential Number
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Feb 28, 2019 at 08:27 PM.
It's my understanding this is a Serial Number Plate and not a VIN Derivative Number casting (which is located on the transmission body LH driver's side - and, damn hard to see without having a mirror or the transmission removed for viewing).
I"m assuming your transmission has a VIN Derivative Number casting - but others can validate.
Unless you specifically locate the VIN Derivative Number casting on the transmission, you can't say w/ any certainty if it's the OE transmission when the vehicle rolled off the line.
Regarding your Serial Number Plate: OG = Transmission Code SERIES = 4400 (i.e. 442, see above)
Based upon Usage Chart:
Turbo Hydra-Matic (400 & 425) = 455 Cu. In. 4 Bbl. Exc. W30 68 = 1968 (I'm assuming) 18016 = Sequential Number
FWIW - an OW Transmission Code equates to 4400 Series, 455 Cu. In. 4 Bbl. W30
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Feb 28, 2019 at 08:10 PM.
Engine Block VIN Derivative = 38E169482
Validates VIN = Oldsmobile Division, 1968, Linden, NJ, Sequential Number same 344678E169482
Original engine block when it rolled off the line.
Thanks to a bunch of other CO members who initially assisted me in learning how to decipher these numbers!
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Feb 28, 2019 at 08:25 PM.
Thanks Norm! I've learned some interesting things!
My car was green
It had a bench which explains lack of console and bucket seats that aren't bolted down on the inside tracks. Wonder if that means the floor nutserts are missing?
Is your engine color gold? It sure looks like it from the pictures you posted. You may or may not know, gold was Old's 350 engine color for the A bodies in 1968. The engine in my '68 4-4-2 is also gold, and 400CID with same casting number. I did not see any traces of bronze on mine, but I know there has been at least some amount of work done on mine. Perhaps it was painted gold in an engine shop that didn't know the color scheme. The water pump, timing gears/chain, and intake have all been R&R'd. Engine, top to bottom, including the oil pan are gold. I just find it interesting seeing another '68 400" that is gold.
The wiper switch is 68 only. Check fusick or year one. I think the escushion and switch are available. If not check the classified section here. Many guys make a living parting 68s. The correct 400 G block bronze paint is available from several vendors. Verify the 442 grill emblem is centered. It looks low to me on my phone. 3450ish 442 verts made in 68. About 1500 sticks. Have exact numbers in my head normally. Old empty head. Nice ride. Mines go fast pull me over red black/black too. Coup. Mike Allyolds has your twin sister stick though.
Good eye! Yes the grill is low as it is not tightened down. I need to fix the horns, mine are completely missing. Know anyone that might have a good set?
I saw an aluminum wiper escutcheon at one of the vendors, don't remember which. I guess the original plastic tends to strip out and is probably why mine is missing.
The engine really is bronze, lighting makes it look gold.
There are a couple of guys in the classified section here that make a living off of parting cars you should be able to find the right dual horn setup for 68 through one of those guys with the wiring harness if that's missing
VIN derivative number "stamping", directly above the trans pan aft of the shift lever.
