Good day gents...looking for a little help in a possible future purchase...So I’m interested in possibly purchasing a 1972 cutlass convertible...I’m far from knowledgeable about these models...I’ve read a lot of information that you guys have posted and I really fell in love with the style of the early 1970s models...I think I’m ready to pull the trigger on one that I found...it has 160k been garage keep as far as the info I received...and I have pics...asking price is 6k and it’s currently registered and driven...any input would greatly be appreciated

 

Welcome to the site. Although your pics don't really show much $6k is probably a reasonable price. What about mechanical history, do they have maint. records?

 

The first input I'll give you is that you need to post MUCH better photos if you want a meaningful response.

 

At this point no....no more info..,it’s someone selling for their recently deceased family member

 

I know...this is all the owner shared with me...so yes I’m in the dark until I see it in person....I think more than anything I just want to know what I should look for when shopping for this model

 

The biggest concern is rust. The boxed frames used on convertibles are prone to rust, typically in the section under the rockers right behind the front wheels. Also look for rust or evidence of rust repair in the bottoms of the front fenders behind the wheel openings, around the rear wheels, and at the base of the windshield. The latter is unfortunately symptomatic of these cars and is expensive to repair properly. Also look for rusted floorpans due to a leaking roof. Any Olds motor with 160K on it had better have had the timing chain replaced by now. Also, the front suspension will have to have been rebuilt. Check for maintenance records or evidence that this work has been done.

 

Not the best pics but what I can see if there is no frame or floor rot it’s a good buy. Mechanical issues never worry me, don’t know about you but it’s body/chassis rust that’ll kill ya. Fender misalignment might indicate rusty lower section but needs eyeballs. Repaint? What’s under it? Looks like a presentable car with drop top, buckets, console, etc, see if you can get some help from someone knowledgeable to check the car over & if no big issues drop the money & acquire what will likely be a fun driver. Even if you have to put a few bucks in it you won’t be abused.

 

Thanks for the input guys! I really dont have someone in mind that would be able to check it out with me...it’s a 3.5hr drive up north of me....I’m willing to make the trip to see it and evaluate it in person...I’m not in a rush to buy...but would like first dibs on her for sure...from what I’ve seen it’s worth a look...I learned a few things to look for as far as fenders and rust...how expensive is it to replace the top if it shows that it needs it...I’m pretty much looking for a sound body and would take on a mechanically troubled project car...interior seems to be fine as well

 

6000 is pretty cheap... I would check it out. As others said rust damage is your #1 concern. Engines can be repaired, tops replaced,etc but rust repair is pricey!! Let us know what you find!

 

Thanks! Whelp I’m up and on the way out the door to start the drive upstate! Hopefully when I get there and update you guys it’ll be a good report! If not at least I hope to get a good Wawa hoagie during the trip 😂

 

Ok guys here’s the update...not sure if this crack is normal

 

The pic is quite difficult to make out. Is that the passenger's side frame near the transmission? Was the crack a rusted hole? Other than that, how did the car run?

 

I can't see for sure but it looks like the trans inspection cover? (plastic). If thats cracked its not a big deal and easily replaced in a few minutes. Maybe just bottomed out on something or caught on low ground?
When you say up north where are talking about? maybe someone on here in the area can help?

 

The circled area is the metal boxed frame. I would inspect the whole frame on the car for rot, heavy rust or cracks. In the trunk up above the wheels is a common place to look for body rust and rot. You really need a knowledgeable eye for these cars to make a good decision. If no major rot, rust or cracks? $6k is a good price but you have to know what your looking for. Mechanical issues will cost $ but nothing like rust repair and body work.

 

 

Going by pics looks like rear quarter or quarters have been replaced. The job doesn't look like A+ since you can visibly see the seam. Car has been repainted obviously so there is filler and what its covering or hiding is not known. The rear of frame looks like typical 48yr rust prob Northeast or midwest car? Undercarriage has been painted or undercoated so that could be hiding a lot also. 1972 convertible with ac built in Lansing MI. Car has a dual gate Hurst shifter which is pretty desirable in the automatic cars. Id look closely

 

Quick update! I’m driving her home!! 3.5 hour backs home and she drives great....ended up paying 5k flat
didn’t get any maintenance records because it was an estate sale and they didn’t come across anything as yet...but it’s a one owner original car!! I will update once I get her home safe...you guys are great thanks again for all the input and info

 

Congrats have fun!

 

Congrats

 

OHHH YEAHHH!

 

Congrats on the purchase! I also have a '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible and love it! Enjoy and good luck with your restoration.

 

i missed this thread altogether .this car was only 30 miles from me and i thought about taking a look at it .im glad you got it and hope it makes a great car for you .i love my 72 convertible

 

Got up n out early while it was cloudy and cool to wash her up...was able to clay, wax and clean the interior...came out great

starting checking for what needs to be addressed and I’m gonna create a small list to start with...since I couldn’t locate the maintenance records I’m gonna start with a basic tune up (plugs, wires, distr, gaskets, oils, a.c. Compressor, weatherstripping through out, and floor shifter gives problems sensing park)
im sure I missed a few but I will try my best to update in a new thread....here’s the last of the pics for this thread! Thanks again guys you really made things possible for a novice like me with the generosity in all of your post...we read, listen and learn most of what we know thru this community...much respect!






pics of interior were prior to cleaning btw...forgot to take after shots

 

Forgot to mention I realize this model has a thermometer by the mirror...so cool! Also the floor shifter has a 3-2-1 manual option...can anyone explain it? Lol pre triptronic

 

The shifter is a Hurst dual gate. Which was available on these with the console. Some people call them "his and hers" shifters.

Oh yea, we need after shots! Looks like a nice solid old car. Enjoy.

 

Start with looking to see how old the tires are, if they are more than 10 years old replace them. Next safety, brake inspection and pack the front wheel bearings. Front end linkages, ball joints, and suspension bushings. Electrical, lights and accys. Engine tuneup and fluids. Weather stripping and detailing. Drive and enjoy!

 

Looks like you got a good deal!!

 

So far so good...I will check off that list as soon as I can....any suggestions on a car cover? I also have an issue with the car locating park properly...it causes me to have to put the car in drive to start it..?... every now and then I can start it normally....any enthusiast in nyc? I’m located in Hempstead ny

 

His and hers shifter lol nice!

 

Check your neutral safety switch adjustment.

 

When it doesn't start, grab the steering wheel collar in front of the key and turn it counter clockwise. The back drive linkage from the transmission to the steering wheel lock could be mis-adjusted, or the Dual Gate shifter cable may need to be adjusted. Both are easy to do.

 

I’m guessing it’s the dual gate...when I shift to park it doesn’t fully engage..car rolls and I gotta play with it a bit to get it locked...as a precaution I just put the emergency brake on...that’s the first issue to be addressed

 

I will check this out

 

Thanks! This worked and it started right up...how do I adjust the neutral safety switch or back drive linkage

 

Gm
took the neutral safety switch out

The new one I got doesn’t look the same....it’s got the same make up but contacts are in a slightly different orientation...


Guessing it’s because it will work for different models...
any input?

 

Yeah, that's a later model one-size-fits-all switch. It will likely work fine, but be sure the contacts actually engage at the correct shifter positions. Or, you could just get a correct one.