co i just picked up a 72 olds 350, and i was wonder what's the most power that i can get outta of it? out 307

 

It depends on how much money you want to spend.

 

well bout $3000, im looking to get about 325 to 375 hp. is that expecting too much with that budget?

 

Not sure if it is too much with that budget or not, but may be too much period with that motor. It will take a lot of different parts than what your engine originally came with just to get you to 300 horsepower. Remember, your motor only came with 180 horsepower stock, so for a streetable car, an increase of 120 horsepower would be a very big step, but a step that leaves you at 300 HP.

 

With that budget you shouldn't have any problem making that amount of power.

 

HOW???????? If you have dyno results with 375 HP for a streetable 1972 350 Olds motor that came with 180 HP please post it, then the secret will be out and we can all do whatever this "build up" is.

 

It's no secret. Its all about the right combo of parts and machine work. Its easy to make 300+hp out of a 350. Higher compression pistons, head work, larger valves, right cam, intake, carb, gear and stall speed.

People have been building 350's with 300-400hp for the last 40 years. Nothing new.

One good example is captjim's 355 he has posted lot of info on several sites about it, including this one.

 

this is my first rebuild, but i dont see much difference between a 69 and 72 except lower compression pistons/cam and the head are slightly deferrent but not much.the 69 is rated @325hp i believe

 

A 400 HP 350 is a BIG secret. Never seen/heard anyone claim this and have proof of it for a 1972 streetable 350 Olds. I have asked about /discussed this for 15 years and done my own build ups. My latest build up in particular was analyzed by Dick Miller and Rocket Racing, and neither party said these high HP numbers would occur. Captim Jim, if you are reading, please list your combo and dyno sheet so we can all know about this and verify its existence.
I saw Joe Mondello personally port Edelbrock cylinder heads and pick special parts for a 455 that would be "streetable." It took all day and into the night on the dyno to finally get 450HP and this was the 455 motor. I'm only posting this info on behalf of reesejames, so he will not be unbelieveably dissapointed when the HP numbers do not come in for him. Also, reesejames, the 1969 horsepower numbers are not are not based on the current system for rating horsepower (this system changed in 1972). If that old system were still in place, your 180 HP motor would be rated at 260, so don't let the 325 HP rating of the 1969 fool you.

 

http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...ic.php?t=39487

 

Oldzzy, thanks for posting.
Reesejames, this build up will put you over your $3000 goal but will have you ready to go at the race track. As far as streetable goes, looks like overheating while sitting in traffic is almost a certainty and your wallet will enjoy the 3 mpg. Also, listen really closely to the pistons with 10.5:1 CR after you've driven down the freeway for 20 minutes at 70 miles per hour using today's gasoline. Finally, don't even consider running vac. advance with this set up, detonation will occur at almost any speed, even driving through a school zone.

However:

If you are looking for a race car, ignore all the above and duplicate the build as listed. BTR knows what he's doing, his own track results have proven his capabilities.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, but really all I want is a daily driver that can kiss some a@@ when I want to. Can I get some specs on that kind of build?

 

I think you should set you goals a little lower at around 300 h.p. You will still be able to have tons of fun on the street and have great reliability.

 

reesejames,
The specs on my car are below. My 350 is almost identical to yours, of course mine is the 71. I have tried a few combinations, this being the latest. There are 2 things about my combination I regret:

My compression ratio on today's gas was NOT a good idea. Unless I back off of the timing (causing my car to run like a dog/slowly), I have to deal with detonation issues. I would recommend going no higher than 10:1. I currently run about 13-14 initial to go fast... if it ruins the motor so be it, I'll drop the CR on the next build.

Also, I feel I could of used a cam just a LITTLE bigger than what I did, and still be fine in the low end.

Other than these 2 things, my car runs VERY quickly and will spin the tires from a dead stop causing the car to just spin around in circles...lots of torque.

My build cost roughly $3650. I purchaseed some expensive parts and had cylinder work done, so $3000 was never possible. Make sure you have some low gears (3.23/3.42) or a build up will not produce all it can.
Good luck with things.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
Edelbrock Performer Carburetor (600CFM 4 barrel).
Edelbrock carburetor insulator gasket (0.320")
Edelbrock True Roller timing chain
Comp Cams Camshaft XE262H(Duration @.050 218/224 Lift 475"/.480" LSA110)
Forged flat top pistons/rings (by Diamond) from Dick Miller Racing
W-31 stainless steel valves (2" intake, 1.625" exhaust)
Head porting (pocket) 3 angle valve job, tear drop valve guides
Sanderson Headers (Part # 0351—shorty type)
3.42 Posi track (originally 2.56 open)
TCI Torque converter 2400 stall (Breakaway # 241100)
Transgo shift kit #2
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor and MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil
MSD Super Conductor spark plug wires (8.5mm)
Walker Dynomax turbo mufflers/dual exhaust (originally single)
Spectre Performance Air Filter w/ K&N X-Stream Air Filter lid
Bored 60 over, 10.5:1 compression ratio

 

Thanks maybe I should just consider a chevy swap.......jk

 

i don't see any trouble coming up with 325 to 350 hp for that money. i have never ran my engine on a dyno but would be willing to bet i am 325 or even a little more. i don't have $3000 in mine. yes i started with a 1970 engine but everything that makes less power on a 72 was changed in my rebuild anyway. i built it about 5 years ago so maybe the price of parts have went up. even if you just put the pistons and parts from an older engine it will be close to that.

 

reesejames, you could certainly do a chevy swap and probably find stuff to build it up easier and cheaper than doing your Oldsmobile engine if you wish. Don't let this discussion about horsepower and build ups discourage you though. I think if you are prudent, do some research, read both here and over at R.O.P. then you will find that $3,000 will be enough to re-build your engine and you will be impressed with the improvement over the stock configuration. I think sometimes setting a certain horsepower goal can be good, but don't let that give you tunnel vision that prevents you from ending up with a nice, streetable, fun car in the end.

 

is this motor worth building?

 

ressejames,
If having horsepower and a "muscle car" to drive around is what you truly want, then get a 455 to build up. You can have a motor that is very streetable but one that also has the 375-400 horsepower you are looking for. It is a can't miss scenario for you. You may have to save up a little extra cash (maybe $3500 total instead of $3000), but once the job is done you will really enjoy the results.