Hello from Vegas! Where to start...
#1
![Question](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Hi All,
My wife used to drive a 71 Cutlass Supreme in college. We finally decided to ship it from Texas to our house in Vegas so we can try to fix it up. As you can see, it's beat up pretty badly from neglect.
Fortunately, it was drained of most of the fluids. There seems to be old dirty oil in it. We are thinking about just taking all the pieces apart and just cleaning it up.
Any idea on what should the the first things we attack just to get it running?
Thanks, hope to be on here a lot learning new things.
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131217-e1347488759712.jpg)
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131051-e1347488778269.jpg)
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131004-e1347488739487.jpg)
My wife used to drive a 71 Cutlass Supreme in college. We finally decided to ship it from Texas to our house in Vegas so we can try to fix it up. As you can see, it's beat up pretty badly from neglect.
Fortunately, it was drained of most of the fluids. There seems to be old dirty oil in it. We are thinking about just taking all the pieces apart and just cleaning it up.
Any idea on what should the the first things we attack just to get it running?
Thanks, hope to be on here a lot learning new things.
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131217-e1347488759712.jpg)
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131051-e1347488778269.jpg)
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131004-e1347488739487.jpg)
![](http://www.sois.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20120912_131027-e1347488806286.jpg)
Last edited by sois; September 12th, 2012 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Sorry for the gigantic pictures.
#3
Welcome to CO first and foremost I would drop the fuel tank and have it cleaned and tested for leaks. Then either replace or clean the fuel lines out with the fuel line disconnected at both ends spray some carburetor cleaner and then blow through the lines with compressed air. Second drain the engine and transmission as good as you can and fill with clean oil. I would put some seafoam in the engine oil that will help with cleaning the debris and water out of the engine. I would remove all the spark plugs and spray Kroil which is like liquid wrench into each cylinder allow it time to soak overnight. Then turn the engine over by hand use a socket wrench on the harmonic bolt that goes to the crank. Once you are able to turn over the engine by hand easily then put the plugs in drain and fill the radiator connect a good battery the fuel lines cross your fingers and turn the key. If it will not turn by hand spray more Kroil or liquid wrench let it sit and try it again. Once it starts it will smoke like a mother and make all kinds of noise as the lifters will be collapsed but after a while it should settle down and stop smoking.
Last edited by Chuck_66; September 13th, 2012 at 05:53 PM.
#4
This is awesome. I will go out and get some ramps and stands to get under the car.
One question before I start the hard stuff... can I hose down the engine with my water hose? I don't plan on turning anything on any time soon and this dry Vegas heat probably won't give stuff time to rust. It's just really dusty though.
Thank you so much Chuck!
One question before I start the hard stuff... can I hose down the engine with my water hose? I don't plan on turning anything on any time soon and this dry Vegas heat probably won't give stuff time to rust. It's just really dusty though.
Thank you so much Chuck!
#6
Well I would get some distilled water to fill the radiator I think it takes 2 gallons but get 4 you might spill some and you don't know if you have any leaks. Once you get the car running and have driven it for a while I would change the fan belts along with all the hoses use new clamps the thermostat and gasket then put anti-freeze in unless it's going to get below 32 degrees. Don't use tap water the mineral deposits will cause rust and leave deposits. I would change the oil and filter so you will need 5 quarts of oil use some 10-30 regular oil not synthetic and a filter. Only use 4.5 quarts because when you drain it you will not get all the oil out cold oil that's sat as long as yours has. Better 1/2 quart low than over filling it. If you want to use synthetic later by all means use it I do. Synthetic will not break down over time with regular oil you should change it once a year even if you didn't drive it synthetic you change it after a certain amount of miles. The best way to loosen up the gunk in-side the engine is with regular oil and you will want to change the oil and filter after 1000 or so miles. I would install a new fuel pump but that is up to you. You will need some carburetor cleaner to clean the fuel lines and carburetor I would get two large cans. I would replace all the rubber gas lines just cut a piece off and take it with you make sure the hose you get is rated for gas. There should be at least two sections of rubber gas line one at the gas tank and another by the fuel pump. Once you are ready to put gas in the tank I would start with 3-4 gallons you might need to drop the tank or have a leak. With gas in the tank I would remove the rubber hose connection on the gas tank side of the fuel pump and dump a gallon or so of gas as you may have some debris in the fuel line. I would get a product called Sea Foam and add it to the gas and engine oil http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html Because your car has been sitting for so long every lifter will be collapsed and the entire inside of the engine everything will be stuck due to the oil sitting in there as regular oil breaks down over time and becomes like a paste Sea Foam should break that down. As far as hosing down the engine well that is up to you I would just take the leaf blower or if you have an air compressor and blow it off but in your climate I don't think it will be a problem. I only spray the engine down with water when it is cold but running then I take it for a good long ride. Water has a tendency of getting into electrical connectors. As far as the transmission goes you can wait on that for now. Take your time spray liquid wrench ( I use a product called Kroil ) on every rusted nut and bolt. If you run into a bolt you can't get loose don't crank on it that will more than likely brake it. If you have a torch then use that someone told me another trick you can heat the bolt with a heat gun or propane torch then touch the bolt with a bee's wax candle the bee's wax wicks into the connection. The bottom line is put as little into it until you know the motor is running well nothing major wrong. I stated earlier to remove the spark plugs and spray liquid wrench into the cylinders mark the spark plug wires 1-8 so you get them back in the correct spot also you should clean the spark plugs and put some electrical lube on the plug wires two copper connectors one at each end. When you fire it up don't panic it will make a hell of a racket and smoke like a mother I would roll it outside before you start it up but it should quite down in a little while and hopefully completely go away once and a while it will take a lifter or two a while to fill up with oil. Good luck keep us posted
Last edited by Chuck_66; September 18th, 2012 at 04:22 AM.
#7
Some will disagree but I would get after that engine with a pressure washer using a wide fan so as not to rip up anything soft, always nice to start on a clean engine.Other wise do as described above...Tedd
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