Hello Everyone - 72 Cutlass
July 19th, 2013, 06:52 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
Hello Everyone - 72 Cutlass
Just joined the forum. Been reviewing a bunch of the posts, very impressed with the help here (and of course the knowledge).
Just bought a 1972 Cutlass Supreme coupe hardtop with 350 rocket rodchester 2bl.
The good...
- VERY good body, frame, floor pan
- Good strong engine
- Good trunk
- Good exterior panels
- headliner very good condition...
The bad
- Its green
- Interior seats, carpet, dashpad, steering wheel, are basically shot
- plastic pieces faded, pillars black/green faded
- passenger side manifold leak
- new exhaust needed
- broken driver side air intake rod broke
- driver side door pull strap missing chrome trim piece
- 4 wheel drum drakes
- no air conditioning
- wiper bottle cracked/washer motor not working
- bumpers - both pretty much gone
- exhaust needs work
My plans for now.... not necessarily prioritized (want a nice driver - not perfect showcar)
- basic mechanical tuneup (wires, plugs, cap, points, clean setup carb)
- redo interior
- change front drums to rotors (incl master and porp valve)
- exterior paint (dark black/charcoal)
- install a radio (has am - no rear speakers)
- exterior paint
In Ontario, Canada - will say this car has seen its last winter.
Any ideas, comments, welcome.
Just bought a 1972 Cutlass Supreme coupe hardtop with 350 rocket rodchester 2bl.
The good...
- VERY good body, frame, floor pan
- Good strong engine
- Good trunk
- Good exterior panels
- headliner very good condition...
The bad
- Its green
- Interior seats, carpet, dashpad, steering wheel, are basically shot
- plastic pieces faded, pillars black/green faded
- passenger side manifold leak
- new exhaust needed
- broken driver side air intake rod broke
- driver side door pull strap missing chrome trim piece
- 4 wheel drum drakes
- no air conditioning
- wiper bottle cracked/washer motor not working
- bumpers - both pretty much gone
- exhaust needs work
My plans for now.... not necessarily prioritized (want a nice driver - not perfect showcar)
- basic mechanical tuneup (wires, plugs, cap, points, clean setup carb)
- redo interior
- change front drums to rotors (incl master and porp valve)
- exterior paint (dark black/charcoal)
- install a radio (has am - no rear speakers)
- exterior paint
In Ontario, Canada - will say this car has seen its last winter.
Any ideas, comments, welcome.
July 26th, 2013, 07:05 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
While I am waiting...
- Obtained a new windshield washer pump (on top of motor )
Parts guys said the washer needs to be calibrated - do not just bolt on or it will just break. Dunno what he is talking about.
Haven't pulled off the washer unit yet to see - anyone have specific directions on mounting the washer pump to the washer motor?
Thanks
- Obtained a new windshield washer pump (on top of motor )
Parts guys said the washer needs to be calibrated - do not just bolt on or it will just break. Dunno what he is talking about.
Haven't pulled off the washer unit yet to see - anyone have specific directions on mounting the washer pump to the washer motor?
Thanks
July 26th, 2013, 07:29 PM
#14
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Posts: 48
July 26th, 2013, 07:57 PM
#15
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July 26th, 2013, 08:07 PM
#16
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July 26th, 2013, 08:09 PM
#17
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July 26th, 2013, 08:12 PM
#18
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Welcome aboard! That car doesn't look so bad. The color is Pinehurst Green. It seems a lot of the cars that came to Canada didn't have AC.
The good news about your interior: You can buy a new interior from Legendary; they have one of the best reps in the business. Your dash can be removed (it takes a couple hours and it's also easier to remove it with the harness attached) and dyed black. I've used a Dupli color vinyl and fabric dye on some faded parts of my trim (72 Cutlass S) and that stuff makes it look like new. It lasts too.
You have a really nice start on your project. I don't blame you for wanting to change the color.
The good news about your interior: You can buy a new interior from Legendary; they have one of the best reps in the business. Your dash can be removed (it takes a couple hours and it's also easier to remove it with the harness attached) and dyed black. I've used a Dupli color vinyl and fabric dye on some faded parts of my trim (72 Cutlass S) and that stuff makes it look like new. It lasts too.
You have a really nice start on your project. I don't blame you for wanting to change the color.
July 26th, 2013, 08:16 PM
#19
same but different
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 2,881
While I am waiting...
- Obtained a new windshield washer pump (on top of motor )
Parts guys said the washer needs to be calibrated - do not just bolt on or it will just break. Dunno what he is talking about.
Haven't pulled off the washer unit yet to see - anyone have specific directions on mounting the washer pump to the washer motor?
Thanks
- Obtained a new windshield washer pump (on top of motor )
Parts guys said the washer needs to be calibrated - do not just bolt on or it will just break. Dunno what he is talking about.
Haven't pulled off the washer unit yet to see - anyone have specific directions on mounting the washer pump to the washer motor?
Thanks
I didn't know they needed calibrated, that's a new one on me. Welcome to CO and good job getting the pics up.
I like the wheel color, really pops with the green. I like it.
July 26th, 2013, 08:28 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
Allan
Well I owned a 69 buick skylark 4 door with exactly the same colours....
Long story - don't have that anymore... Almost the same motor though, 2 bbl rodchester on a 350 chevy smallblock. She'd get up and go.
I've owned a few other oldsmobiles (besides my latest Alero)
- 76 Olds Delta 88
The delta road like a dream - put a coffee on the dash filled to the brim and you wouldnt spill it. Pass everything but a gas station.
- 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme
I drove the cutlass for 15 years until the frame rotted to a point where I couldnt repair it (and, well the car was just pretty much work out - loved that car).
Onto this cutlass,
I heard of the dupli-colour and something else as well - Suma or Sema - maybe in another post on here....
I contacted NOS and got some prices on interior stuff already... dunno yet what I am going to do.
Was thinking maybe a tan interior (think it is called saddle or gold?) as well.
Changing the exterior to a deep darker-shade maroon, put some stripes around the hood cowels in gold and wheels gold to match the engine. Think that will look sharp.
Want to get this baby setup and running, on the road, find the problems with it and iron them out. Dont want to do a frame off just yet - its in too good a condition - want to drive it!
Well I owned a 69 buick skylark 4 door with exactly the same colours....
Long story - don't have that anymore... Almost the same motor though, 2 bbl rodchester on a 350 chevy smallblock. She'd get up and go.
I've owned a few other oldsmobiles (besides my latest Alero)
- 76 Olds Delta 88
The delta road like a dream - put a coffee on the dash filled to the brim and you wouldnt spill it. Pass everything but a gas station.
- 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme
I drove the cutlass for 15 years until the frame rotted to a point where I couldnt repair it (and, well the car was just pretty much work out - loved that car).
Onto this cutlass,
I heard of the dupli-colour and something else as well - Suma or Sema - maybe in another post on here....
I contacted NOS and got some prices on interior stuff already... dunno yet what I am going to do.
Was thinking maybe a tan interior (think it is called saddle or gold?) as well.
Changing the exterior to a deep darker-shade maroon, put some stripes around the hood cowels in gold and wheels gold to match the engine. Think that will look sharp.
Want to get this baby setup and running, on the road, find the problems with it and iron them out. Dont want to do a frame off just yet - its in too good a condition - want to drive it!
July 26th, 2013, 09:00 PM
#22
same but different
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 2,881
Check out this thread, and look at the picture in post # 8. Then, get back to us.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ble-resto.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ble-resto.html
Last edited by don71; July 26th, 2013 at 09:00 PM. Reason: link to thread
July 28th, 2013, 04:59 PM
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
numbers
From what I've read so far for numbers
VIN - dash
Block casting number - driver side/front on block below tappet covers
Carb serial number
Distributor number
Cowl plate?
Firewall Tag??
Door tag??
Transmission VIN
Build sheet possibly on top of gas tank
Build sheet interior (possibly under rug or under back seat)
VIN - dash
Block casting number - driver side/front on block below tappet covers
Carb serial number
Distributor number
Cowl plate?
Firewall Tag??
Door tag??
Transmission VIN
Build sheet possibly on top of gas tank
Build sheet interior (possibly under rug or under back seat)
July 28th, 2013, 07:27 PM
#24
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
From what I've read so far for numbers
VIN - dash YES, same place as new cars
Block casting number - driver side/front on block below tappet covers NO, that's the head casting. Block casting is at the front of the block on the ledge behind the water pump.
Carb serial number - On the carb itself if it's a QJet. Won't actually be the serial number, it will be the model number (eg: 1972 350 4bbl 7042250, 72 455 4bbl 7042251
Distributor number - model is stamped onto the distributor housing.
Cowl plate? Right side - Top of cowl on the horizontal surface between the cowl lacing and windshield trim
Firewall Tag?? - same as Cowl - just another term.
Door tag?? - Drivers door. There should be a blue sticker (not tag) that shows the VIN and production mo/year. If it's a post 71 model it will aslo have GVWR and Front/Rear GAWR's
Transmission VIN - Lower right side of transmission.
Build sheet possibly on top of gas tank - could be in any number of places unless it's a Lansing car. You will not find a Build Sheet in a Lansing car.
Build sheet interior (possibly under rug or under back seat) Don't know what you're trying to describe. Maybe Broadcast card?? Can be anywhere - under carpet, behind door panel, stuffed under seat springs....
VIN - dash YES, same place as new cars
Block casting number - driver side/front on block below tappet covers NO, that's the head casting. Block casting is at the front of the block on the ledge behind the water pump.
Carb serial number - On the carb itself if it's a QJet. Won't actually be the serial number, it will be the model number (eg: 1972 350 4bbl 7042250, 72 455 4bbl 7042251
Distributor number - model is stamped onto the distributor housing.
Cowl plate? Right side - Top of cowl on the horizontal surface between the cowl lacing and windshield trim
Firewall Tag?? - same as Cowl - just another term.
Door tag?? - Drivers door. There should be a blue sticker (not tag) that shows the VIN and production mo/year. If it's a post 71 model it will aslo have GVWR and Front/Rear GAWR's
Transmission VIN - Lower right side of transmission.
Build sheet possibly on top of gas tank - could be in any number of places unless it's a Lansing car. You will not find a Build Sheet in a Lansing car.
Build sheet interior (possibly under rug or under back seat) Don't know what you're trying to describe. Maybe Broadcast card?? Can be anywhere - under carpet, behind door panel, stuffed under seat springs....
Last edited by Allan R; July 29th, 2013 at 09:53 AM.
July 29th, 2013, 06:54 AM
#26
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,269
Just to clarify, the block CASTING number isn't what makes it "numbers matching". The block VIN derivative is what "matches" the car's VIN. Same with the trans VIN derivative. All the other casting and part numbers were used on many cars in a given model year, so while they may be correct for your particular car, the numbers themselves are not proof that the part are original to that car.
August 6th, 2013, 07:23 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
am from London Ont area
And thanks for the info guys. Haven't had time to go through the olds as yet to pull the numbers. Will do shortly - and thanks for the detailed info Alan - will help when I go through it. Yep meant broadcast card for the interior one.
Been busy. Had rusty fuel line issues on my daily driver - lol. Always something!
And thanks for the info guys. Haven't had time to go through the olds as yet to pull the numbers. Will do shortly - and thanks for the detailed info Alan - will help when I go through it. Yep meant broadcast card for the interior one.
Been busy. Had rusty fuel line issues on my daily driver - lol. Always something!
August 5th, 2014, 07:14 PM
#29
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
Ok - On my way changing my interior from green to black.
Seats - went with aftermarket covers.
Doors - new panels
Headliner - new headliner - not yet done
carpet - new carpet - old one is completely gone.
seatbelts - changing to a 3 pt one for driver/passenger.
Painting the rear panels/arm rest.
Will post pics as soon as possible.
Seats - went with aftermarket covers.
Doors - new panels
Headliner - new headliner - not yet done
carpet - new carpet - old one is completely gone.
seatbelts - changing to a 3 pt one for driver/passenger.
Painting the rear panels/arm rest.
Will post pics as soon as possible.
August 5th, 2014, 07:48 PM
#31
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
More pieces left to paint - will attempt the visors...
My process...
- Use TSP to clean up with fine steel wool
- Paint the pieces will vinyl prep paint and heat up with hair dryer
- Wait a day and paint with black vinyl paint
My process...
- Use TSP to clean up with fine steel wool
- Paint the pieces will vinyl prep paint and heat up with hair dryer
- Wait a day and paint with black vinyl paint
August 5th, 2014, 07:53 PM
#32
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
Also need to paint front pillars - for some reason the paint on the drivers side just flaked off - bad paint I guess, the passenger side was fine.
Note the small plastic pieces are from the rear package tray clips. They were very brittle and I had to fix one with some bondo. Probably better to buy new, but I'll paint these for now.
Note the small plastic pieces are from the rear package tray clips. They were very brittle and I had to fix one with some bondo. Probably better to buy new, but I'll paint these for now.
August 5th, 2014, 08:07 PM
#34
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 48
Headliner is next, I expect this will be fun.
I will attempt dash last (have new dashpad, will need to paint large remainder part of steering column and lower dash.
Have not pulled the vent kick-panels in the Front. Does anyone know if there is a special way needed to disconnect the vent pull rods?
Btw, I'll take pictures. Note the floor all done and painted, but I do expect I'll need to paint the roof prior to putting up the new headliner. The insulation looks good though.
I will attempt dash last (have new dashpad, will need to paint large remainder part of steering column and lower dash.
Have not pulled the vent kick-panels in the Front. Does anyone know if there is a special way needed to disconnect the vent pull rods?
Btw, I'll take pictures. Note the floor all done and painted, but I do expect I'll need to paint the roof prior to putting up the new headliner. The insulation looks good though.
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