Flame Orange 72 Oldsmobile upgrades
March 25th, 2016, 05:14 AM
#1
Flame Orange 72 Oldsmobile upgrades
Hello, I'm new to the site, and like others, looking for pointers.
I've inherited my dad's 1972 oldsmobile cutlass supreme convert. In the last year or so he had it completely taken apart, clean, repainted and put back together - a rebuild if you will. It looks good, engine was painted gold, frame was painted black - no rust at all. I'm trying to find ways to improve it, the way I describe it to my friends is "Much more fun to look at than drive".
While I want to improve it, I also don't want to mess it up. I've had mustangs that I put flowmasters on in the past. It's tempting to simply upgrade to one of these, but I'm afraid it could interfere with timing, etc... Though, seems like it could make the car more fun and slightly improve performance. The other things I don't like about it is the brakes and slight shimmy while driving. Wondering if I could upgrade the brakes, they lock when driving all the time. Also, if I could do something with the suspension to make the drive more "tight" I would (sway bar or upgrade suspension).
I know it is an older car, but I'd like to feel more comfortable driving it, while not taking from its original construction (don't want to "442" it out).
Thoughts?
I've inherited my dad's 1972 oldsmobile cutlass supreme convert. In the last year or so he had it completely taken apart, clean, repainted and put back together - a rebuild if you will. It looks good, engine was painted gold, frame was painted black - no rust at all. I'm trying to find ways to improve it, the way I describe it to my friends is "Much more fun to look at than drive".
While I want to improve it, I also don't want to mess it up. I've had mustangs that I put flowmasters on in the past. It's tempting to simply upgrade to one of these, but I'm afraid it could interfere with timing, etc... Though, seems like it could make the car more fun and slightly improve performance. The other things I don't like about it is the brakes and slight shimmy while driving. Wondering if I could upgrade the brakes, they lock when driving all the time. Also, if I could do something with the suspension to make the drive more "tight" I would (sway bar or upgrade suspension).
I know it is an older car, but I'd like to feel more comfortable driving it, while not taking from its original construction (don't want to "442" it out).
Thoughts?
March 25th, 2016, 06:25 AM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
Welcome to the site. Exhaust upgrades will not mess up your cars engine. Tuning is mandatory with these older cars to get maximum power and efficiency. The shimmy can be poorly balanced tires, worn front end components, or alignment. With the brakes, there are a few things that will cause this. Are they disc or drum?
It will never drive like a modern car, but still should drive nice.
It will never drive like a modern car, but still should drive nice.
March 25th, 2016, 05:05 PM
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
A question about your Dad's 'rebuild'. Did he just do cosmetic work to the car - the typical strip/respray of the car? Or was it a body off restoration? If it was a full blown restoration it should also have recieved special attention to replacing all the rubber suspension parts (bushings, etc) and mechanical linkages such as ball joints, idler arm, center link, front sway bar, springs... If the mechanical work was not done, that's likely most of the problem with it shimmy. The brakes locking up suggest that the proportioning valve is not working right, or the brakes are not adjusted properly. If this is an early production 72, it will likely have drum brakes. (RPO J50)
Can you post a picture of the cowl tag, and the last 6 digits of the VIN sequence? A pic of the engine compartment would be nice too.
CS verts are a nice car, and IMO are nicer to drive as they are to look at, so something's not right with this one you inherited.
Can you post a picture of the cowl tag, and the last 6 digits of the VIN sequence? A pic of the engine compartment would be nice too.
CS verts are a nice car, and IMO are nicer to drive as they are to look at, so something's not right with this one you inherited.
March 26th, 2016, 07:27 AM
#4
Guys, thank for the replies.
The work that was done indeed was full in a cosmetic sense. Yes, it was also body off frame, completely taken apart and put back together. When it was being done I didn't even know what a bushings was, though, he told me all of those and gaskets of all types were replaced. The engine compartment looks virtually new, engine painted gold, many new parts and clean. The portion that worries me is that I still see older hoses and some older parts (but i'm not sure what i'm looking at) . In other words I think the hard part was done. Now, my gut is telling me I need to do a lot of "fine tuning" and some upgrading.
Since yesterday, I stumbled over the term "restomod". I like this in nature because my Dad (unfortunately) had the motor replaced rather than rebuilt, so restoring it back to its true state isn't really in the cards anymore. This is now an heirloom that I'd like to have run well enough to drive comfortably, as stated.
On the mechanical side, I'm not sure to what extent that work was done, I've got a file on it that I'll review. I believe the car has drum brakes, I'm totally fine with upgrading to disc if that is considered a major improvement. Also, if exhaust is done, should I go duals? Again, this is a CS not a 442, just want it to be a fun car to drive. Not looking for loud noise so much as a healthy puur.
I know that was all over the place, but this helps, thanks.
Pictures and cowl tag/vin data are coming.
The work that was done indeed was full in a cosmetic sense. Yes, it was also body off frame, completely taken apart and put back together. When it was being done I didn't even know what a bushings was, though, he told me all of those and gaskets of all types were replaced. The engine compartment looks virtually new, engine painted gold, many new parts and clean. The portion that worries me is that I still see older hoses and some older parts (but i'm not sure what i'm looking at) . In other words I think the hard part was done. Now, my gut is telling me I need to do a lot of "fine tuning" and some upgrading.
Since yesterday, I stumbled over the term "restomod". I like this in nature because my Dad (unfortunately) had the motor replaced rather than rebuilt, so restoring it back to its true state isn't really in the cards anymore. This is now an heirloom that I'd like to have run well enough to drive comfortably, as stated.
On the mechanical side, I'm not sure to what extent that work was done, I've got a file on it that I'll review. I believe the car has drum brakes, I'm totally fine with upgrading to disc if that is considered a major improvement. Also, if exhaust is done, should I go duals? Again, this is a CS not a 442, just want it to be a fun car to drive. Not looking for loud noise so much as a healthy puur.
I know that was all over the place, but this helps, thanks.
Pictures and cowl tag/vin data are coming.
March 31st, 2016, 11:33 AM
#5
A question about your Dad's 'rebuild'. Did he just do cosmetic work to the car - the typical strip/respray of the car? Or was it a body off restoration? If it was a full blown restoration it should also have recieved special attention to replacing all the rubber suspension parts (bushings, etc) and mechanical linkages such as ball joints, idler arm, center link, front sway bar, springs... If the mechanical work was not done, that's likely most of the problem with it shimmy. The brakes locking up suggest that the proportioning valve is not working right, or the brakes are not adjusted properly. If this is an early production 72, it will likely have drum brakes. (RPO J50)
Can you post a picture of the cowl tag, and the last 6 digits of the VIN sequence? A pic of the engine compartment would be nice too.
CS verts are a nice car, and IMO are nicer to drive as they are to look at, so something's not right with this one you inherited.
Can you post a picture of the cowl tag, and the last 6 digits of the VIN sequence? A pic of the engine compartment would be nice too.
CS verts are a nice car, and IMO are nicer to drive as they are to look at, so something's not right with this one you inherited.
Here are the two pics.
Sorry they took so long...
Love it! What's not to enjoy when it comes to driving one of these cars? I think it would also be quite a chick magnet if you're still on the prowl. 
April 3rd, 2016, 05:08 AM
#7
They're drum brakes...
Would you suggest changing them to disc? I see a lot of input on how to do that, but nothing that talks about it you should What kind of differences would one notice? Could it be that I could upgrade the booster and MC on what I've got and be a lot better off?
Would you have any other general thoughts on upgrades?
Would you suggest changing them to disc? I see a lot of input on how to do that, but nothing that talks about it you should What kind of differences would one notice? Could it be that I could upgrade the booster and MC on what I've got and be a lot better off?
Would you have any other general thoughts on upgrades?
April 3rd, 2016, 02:51 PM
#8
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If you're not planning to make this a daily driver, leave it as is. J50 is the pedal ease power disc brake (drum) setup you have on the car. Changing the brake booster and master cylinder isn't going to make any difference at all. You would need to change the car from a distribution valve to proportioning valve, then change out or modify the front spindles to accept the backing plate, calipers, discs, pads and brake hoses. If you want to spend the money, it's not cheap. Is there a problem with the brakes that started this conversation?
The pro side of disc brakes is they are much less susceptible to fade when they get hot, and they don't take as long to stop as drum brakes when they get wet. If this was my car and I was keeping it as a show car? I'd leave it alone.
The pro side of disc brakes is they are much less susceptible to fade when they get hot, and they don't take as long to stop as drum brakes when they get wet. If this was my car and I was keeping it as a show car? I'd leave it alone.
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