Hi everyone! New to the site and this is my first post. I just recently bought a 1967 442 convertible and am about to start a semi-resteration on it. I want to keep it looking as original as possible but get as much power (preferably torque) out of the original 400 motor as i can. From what i have been reading the best way to increase torque is to increase displacement specifically stroke. I have a nodular crank out of a 1968 toro motor and was wondering if anyone has tried to use this crank in the 400 block? Do I have to worry about the rods clearing the cylinder skirts? I have been looking for a stroker kit for this motor and can not find one. All the kits are for the 455 and the 403. Any info would be helpful and much appreciated.

thanks

 

My engine in my '65 is a bored and stroked early 400 motor, now a 461. It is 4.155 bore x 4.250 stroke. I used a 455 crank, Eagle 455 rods and +.030 455 pistons. Prior to that it was a true 455 with the same crank but stock 455 rods and standard bore 455 pistons. I had no clearance issues with the rods with either configuration. If you choose to go this route just have the block sonic checked for wall thickness prior to boring.

 

Welcome, post some pictures when you get a chance.

 

Hi Chadman! Thanks for the info but I am a little confused you said you used the 400 block then said it was a true 455 before you made changes. please explain. Also is your car a driver or track car? Any dyno specs? 1/4 mile times? etc... Just curious as I am trying to make mine a driver with alot of *****. I tried to post photos Eric but its telling me the format is not accepted.. I will have to play around with that and try to get some on here for you.

 

What I meant by a "true 455" was that it was 4.125 bore x 4.25 stroke. It has always been in the same 400 block. My car is a street car that I drive anywhere I want. It has run a best of 11.60 in the 1/4 mile.

 

How much wall thickness was left after the 0.155 overbore?

 

The 455 crank in an early 400 block gives you a 427 Olds motor. Unfortunately, you'll need to select the correct compression height pistons for this combo, depending on which rods you use. There are a lot of 4" bore pistons available, so you'll need to do the math. If you do decide to go with an 0.125" overbore (or more), you'll essentially be using the complete 455 Olds reciprocating assembly, so that's actually less expensive in the long run than mixing and matching components.

 

Now I understand. Thanks for clarifying that for me. I think I will try to go with the .125 over bore to save money
thanks again