Aftermarket Rally Pac Gauges
May 7th, 2012, 11:20 AM
#1
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 273
Aftermarket Rally Pac Gauges
Hello everyone;
I'm new to this so bare with me. Just bought a 69 Hurst itis the secound one that I've owned. The first one was when I was 18 I think I am trying to relive my youth. Any way I'm putting in a se of after market rally pac gauges. I read all the postings about installaion but nobody addressed if the Gen & Hot light still come on yet when you turn on the ignition is this right?
Guy
I'm new to this so bare with me. Just bought a 69 Hurst itis the secound one that I've owned. The first one was when I was 18 I think I am trying to relive my youth. Any way I'm putting in a se of after market rally pac gauges. I read all the postings about installaion but nobody addressed if the Gen & Hot light still come on yet when you turn on the ignition is this right?
Guy
May 7th, 2012, 03:17 PM
#2
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,256
Are these gauges the kind that mount under your dash or in the place of the gauges/idiot lights in your dash?
If these gauges are mounted independently of your dash gauges, the GEN and HOT lamps in the gauge pod in your dash will still come on upon start, and then extinguish.
If you've replaced the idiot lights with in-dash gauges, there shouldn't be a HOT light.
Randy C.
If these gauges are mounted independently of your dash gauges, the GEN and HOT lamps in the gauge pod in your dash will still come on upon start, and then extinguish.
If you've replaced the idiot lights with in-dash gauges, there shouldn't be a HOT light.
Randy C.
May 7th, 2012, 04:25 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 273
Rally pac gauges
Thank you for responding. They are the in dash gauges. What I thought was a problem is that you must cut the green wire on the starter switch on the steering column to keep the gauge for burning out from too much voltage. My question was (I did not explain it vou so very well) After you cut the wire and you turn the key on should you still get a hot and gen lightin the gauge. I was just told it does not matter as long as the gauges do not peg out. Like I said, I'm new at this. Thank you very much. Its good to be back in the Oldsmobile circles
Guy
Guy
May 7th, 2012, 09:38 PM
#4
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,256
Just for reference, my rallye gauge pod does not have a "HOT" light. The lights on my rallye gauge pod are "GEN" (lower left) and "BRAKE" (lower right).
You are right about the green wire. Instead of cutting it, though, I recommend extracting its end from the connector under the dash and near the steering column (the wire harness comes down the steering column)and just taping it off. You keep the wire intact, yet this action will keep the temp gauge from pegging every time you start the car. The green wire represents a "check circuit" for the idiot lights and that's why the "TEMP" light in the idiot gauge pod comes on when you start the car and the extinguishes when it senses all is OK.
Do the after-market rallye gauges require repositioning of the wires in your idiot light harness? I replaced my idiot lights with an original rallye gauge pod and it required me to reposition wires in that harness. The picture below shows what has to be done if the same is true for the repro rallye gauges.
As I recall, the brake light should only come on if there is a problem with the brake system (air in the lines, low fluid level, etc.).
Someone else correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "GEN" light will come on while starting the car but will extinguish after the car is started.
Randy C.
You are right about the green wire. Instead of cutting it, though, I recommend extracting its end from the connector under the dash and near the steering column (the wire harness comes down the steering column)and just taping it off. You keep the wire intact, yet this action will keep the temp gauge from pegging every time you start the car. The green wire represents a "check circuit" for the idiot lights and that's why the "TEMP" light in the idiot gauge pod comes on when you start the car and the extinguishes when it senses all is OK.
Do the after-market rallye gauges require repositioning of the wires in your idiot light harness? I replaced my idiot lights with an original rallye gauge pod and it required me to reposition wires in that harness. The picture below shows what has to be done if the same is true for the repro rallye gauges.
As I recall, the brake light should only come on if there is a problem with the brake system (air in the lines, low fluid level, etc.).
Someone else correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "GEN" light will come on while starting the car but will extinguish after the car is started.
Randy C.
May 8th, 2012, 07:45 PM
#6
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,256
Hello Guy,
Hey, we all get to stumble through this. When I put in my rallye gauges, the temp gauge pinned itself every time I started the car. I followed those instructions that I posted to the "T" so I thought the pinning was normal. Then I did the same thing to my '70 GTO. Those instructions included specific guidance on disconnecting the "green" wire so the temp gauge wouldn't pin upon start-up. The GTO instructions said that, if it goes on too long, it will ruin the gauge. My 4-4-2 is a '68, and figuring the GM A body cars were similar in wiring, I looked for the "green" wire at the ignition behind the dash and found it. After extracting it and taping it off, my temp gauge didn't pin anymore and everything else worked as it should, which I considered a real stroke of luck!
These cars are a lot of fun. A '69 Hurst is a special car and you are among the lucky few to have one.
Randy C.
Hey, we all get to stumble through this. When I put in my rallye gauges, the temp gauge pinned itself every time I started the car. I followed those instructions that I posted to the "T" so I thought the pinning was normal. Then I did the same thing to my '70 GTO. Those instructions included specific guidance on disconnecting the "green" wire so the temp gauge wouldn't pin upon start-up. The GTO instructions said that, if it goes on too long, it will ruin the gauge. My 4-4-2 is a '68, and figuring the GM A body cars were similar in wiring, I looked for the "green" wire at the ignition behind the dash and found it. After extracting it and taping it off, my temp gauge didn't pin anymore and everything else worked as it should, which I considered a real stroke of luck!
These cars are a lot of fun. A '69 Hurst is a special car and you are among the lucky few to have one.
Randy C.
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