Tvan

Complete noob here! first post as a matter of fact. Great site, lots of insight and help So thank you in advance for any help/ideas.
On to my question. I got my first 442 off the truck Friday after having it shipped down from MA. There are three keys on the ring - one for the ignition one for doors and one that opens the glove box. Previous owner says this is all the keys he had but none of them will even attempt to turn the lock on the trunk.
Should ther be a 4th key if all is still original?
Regardless any recommendations on how to get in to if if I can't get a key?
Thanks again,
Todd

2blu442

Welcome to the site Todd! It sounds like someone has changed the locks on your car. It shouldn't take four keys to open four different locks. Last year I purchased a 1964 Cutlass that had the key broken off inside the trunk lock. I removed the back seat and crawled through there until I could use a ratched with several extensions to remove the bolts (three I think) that hold the female portion of the latch. Please share pictures with us when you can.
John

Tvan

Getting to the latch through the back seat may be a bit tricky as the previous owner put extra parts in the trunk, but I think I may be able to get to it.
If not I will try a locksmith.
I tried to post a few pics but evidently I can't do that on my IPAD. I'll try that again tomorrow.
I know the engine has been replaced with a 455 from I think 1967ish. Everything else I think is original.

Tvan

Finally got the photos up loaded. Let me know what you think?
I can oly load 5 at a time so I will post more in my next one.

Regards,

T

Tvan

A few more pics....

Tvan

Last ones....
Let me know if there is something specific you would like to see.

Rickman48

Yeah - I'd like to see the engine, trans and linkage up here for our '65!!
Stolen from the shop!! Looooong story!

You've got some work there, good luck with it !!

Jamesbo

Welcome aboard
I see you got the trunk opened.

gearheads78

If your way to the lock from the inside is blocked by parts then just drill the lock from the outside. Its pot metal and drills real easy.

Tvan

Not yet... that is a pic the previous owner sent. At least I know it opens... lol

Tvan

do you think it is cheaper to just drill it and replace it or to call a locksmith out?

Thanks!

Oldsmaniac

Cool car, nice project,,,lots of cash needed.

gearheads78

A lot cheaper to replace the cly than call a locksmith.

MDchanic

I think I like it.

- Eric

Junkman

Before you drill out the lock, spray some WD 40 into the cylinder, and using the key that you have for the glove box, try moving the key in and out of the cylinder a few times. Then try turning the key to the right as you slide it in and out, and there is a good chance that you will get the lock to open. Many times, a tumbler will get stuck, and the key will not move it enough to allow the lock bar to move out of the way and for the cylinder to turn. I don't know if a replacement lock cylinder is readily available, and at what cost, so I would find out this information first before destroying the lock cylinder. Even if there are parts in the trunk, you might still be able to get to the lock mechanism through the back seat. It will only cost you some time to try. I always try multiple ways before destroying any part on a car. Some parts are just not available, and if they are available, they cost a fortune.

67442HT

I have opened many a trunk by removing the back seat and taking the bolts out of the latch by using a long extension and socket. The bolts should take a 1/2 inch socket. If you will notice, the latch is way up high on the trunk, so, any parts or stuff in the trunk probably will be below where you have to go with your socket and extensions, unless it it stacked all the way to the trunk lid. After you get the latch loose, you can take the lock cylinder and rod out, reatttach the latch to the trunk lid, and then open the trunk with a flat blade screwdriver until you get a new lock cylinder.
Junkman's idea is good too.
Good Luck

Allan R

Looks like a nice 65 Lansing car. Built first week of August. Burgundy mist upper/lower body color, Trim s/b black vinyl. Got some rust issues, but it looks like a great project.

Not the original engine obviously, but a nice 455 with C heads. Looks like the alt belt may be the wrong one - waaay too much slack.

re: the trunk? The key for the glove box should be the one for the trunk. Like you said though- kind of wierd that you got 3 different ones. Before you start drilling this sucker, why don't you give the PO a call and ask him to check for the trunk key. He obviously had it if he took pics of the trunk open. Go from there; it might save you some money.

Tvan

Thank you for the input... It is really appreciated!
I posted in the big block section a question about the block number, no response yet... Maybe you can help with that as well?
As I read it the number is "396021 E".... But all the info I can find doesn't list an "E" series with that cast number. That 396021 is usually followed by an "F" or later an "Fa".
Am I reading it wrong?

Oldsmaniac

E block is 1966 or 67 400 engine

Allan R

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Not so much that you're reading it wrong. You need to look at the actual casting.
Here's what I looked at. Did a closeup pic of your engine block and that letter that looks like E is in reality an F. Looks like someone has deeply scratched the extra line in there (for whatever reason I don't know). But it's an F because it matches the casting numbers. Also the 'extra' line isn't even straight like the F is. Go and look closely at what I've pointed out and let me know if that extra line is 'raised' or scratched in. I think you will find it's the latter.

In order to be an E the casting number would have to be 390925 which would be one of the next to impossible to find 66/67 442 400 motors which is also not the original engine for that car. If it had the original 65 400 engine (seeing how it's a 442) it should have a block casting that reads: 389298 B.

Best I can do for you.

BTW your vehicle identification plate (on door pillar) decodes as follows:
3 - Olds division
3 - Series (Cutlass/f85)
8 - Engine type (V8)
37 - Body type (Hardtop Coupe)
5 - 1965 model year
M - Lansing production
434063 - Lansing sequential number (production number)

tru-blue 442

Nice project and welcome. Quite a few folks from the Lone Star State
on this board. I think your gonna really like the way it's gonna run when you
get it going...
You might find a chebby guy who will want those rally wheels.
I know there are fellas here with Olds rallys to fix you up with.
Good luck with her and keep us posted.

Tvan

Finally got the time and weather to play with the car some. Going through the bak seat I managed to remove the two bolts that hold the latch to the post and got the trunk opened. So that is good... But now I am trying get the lock cylinder out and am not having any luck. I removed the 3 7/16" bolts that hold the latch an removed the 2 Phillips screws from the plate under the cylinder... But it won't budge? I thought all I had to do was pull that retainer plate out but it is putting up a fight and I don't want to break it.
Should I just keep trying tp pry the retainer lip out or am I missing a screw somewhere?
As always thank you for your help!

Lady72nRob71

That plate pulls out with some prying action. Use some rags and a paint stick to protect the finish. Pry on one side, insert a spacer, pry on the other side, add a bigger spacer, repeat until it can be pulled out.
Did you try WD40 in the lock? That fixed mine, after I gummed it up with stupid graphite lube crap.

Junkman

Use a can of WD40 and spray between the deck lid and the retainer plate. It should then come off easily. Sometimes they develop a rust film between the two metals that causes it friction fit that is difficult to overcome when trying to remove the retainer. When you put the lock mechanism back in, make sure to attach it exactly where it was by aligning the bolt head marks. Failure to do this, can cause you jamming problems if there is tension on the lock assembly when you close it.

Tvan

Thank you both... That did the trick. I got the lock cylinder out after some careful prying. Do either of you know if you can tell if it is the original lock by the number stamped on te cylinder?

Junkman

Generally speaking, if the lock case has a stamped number on it, it is usually the original lock that was supplied with the car. Service replacement locks were not sold with the key and number stamping through the dealership, however, they were available in some years through aftermarket suppliers that purchased the excess inventory from the factory that made the original locks. Briggs & Stratton was not adversed to selling to the aftermarket. The other manufacturer of locks was Rochester Parts, a GM company. The parts by both companies look identical, and the keys are almost identical in looks. You should record the number, since most locksmiths can make you a new key from this number. A key that it cut by number will work better than a key that is cut from another key in a key duplicating machine. Many times, a replacement key is used to cut the next key, and each time, it adds a "generation" to the key. When you get out 3 or 4 generations, the keys usually give you grief.

archeryshooter

I got a new lock with keys from OPG and they work great you can also get the door locks to match. my old one had the right key but kept jamming up