1967 Delta 88 Newbie To the Site
October 9th, 2012 | 05:54 AM
#121
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Thanks a million on getting me the information. I never seen the bolt kit in the book? I guess thats what happens when you get older and not pay cloes attention to what I read. Thanks again I have a set on the way and should have a good sounding Delta 88 this Saturday. Maybe, late Saturday but Saturday none the less.
October 10th, 2012 | 05:05 AM
#123
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Thank you very much. The color was a pleasent surprise as I was expecting darker or more black with a red tint with a little glitter. Having said that and thinking that, I went with the maroon and black inside. After the 1st coat of paint, we seen that it was not going to be anything close to what we thought. I was a little concerned about color matching the inside, but after the clear was on and getting it outside in the sun, WOW, I was taken back as it is a close match. Just got lucky with that one. The 67 2 Dr Delmont 88 Im working on now should be a little eaiser to visualize as I am planning on Candy Apple Red with a Cream top. Red/White inside vinyl seats and door panels. But that will not be until next spring unfortunatly. Still working on the 4 dr with little stuff and at all takes time. But hey, thanks again for the Comps.
October 14th, 2012 | 10:54 AM
#124
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
OK guys and gals, I'm lookng for an expert on interior. I need to find a back shelf/deck for both cars. 1967 4dr hardtop 1967 2dr hardtop. Fusick don't have any for the 67's. I am wondering if anyone knows what yr would work for both 4dr & 2dr? Or would I just be better off just making my own out of 1/8 ply and screwing it down to the shelf itself? I'm thinking I'm gonna have to build my own but thought someone might know where to get one already done. I'm looking to have the glass put back in next week, so if anyonw knows where to get these things it would be greatly appreciated for the info. Thanks again. Bill
Here are a few pics of the work being done on the 67 2dr. Not much has been done but a little to get started before next spring. Inside will be done next spring. However, the window area needed some extencive repair. Lots of rust around the front and back had to be fixed with new metal and LOTS of JB Weld. Hope it will hold up good enough? Ive always had good luck with JB Weld in the past so I am confident it will work for as long as I have the car anyway.
Here are a few pics of the work being done on the 67 2dr. Not much has been done but a little to get started before next spring. Inside will be done next spring. However, the window area needed some extencive repair. Lots of rust around the front and back had to be fixed with new metal and LOTS of JB Weld. Hope it will hold up good enough? Ive always had good luck with JB Weld in the past so I am confident it will work for as long as I have the car anyway.
October 14th, 2012 | 02:01 PM
#126
Lt. Buzzkill (ret.)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,297
From: Western New York
Oh yeah, remember that they're different between hardtop vs sedan and 2dr vs 4dr.
Last edited by copper128; October 14th, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
October 15th, 2012 | 07:37 AM
#128
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
Stumpy,
I'm about to start a paint job on my '67 Delta convertible, and I have some questions for you as you have just done yours. I've always read and heard that you should take off as much of the trim as possible for various reasons including avoiding getting paint on it and to be able to get behind and in all the little nooks and crannies that would otherwise be difficult to reach.
From your photos, I notice that you did not remove as much trim as thought I might remove. In fact, from your photos, I don't see any trim that you removed.
I've already taken off the back bumper, tail lights, and all the trim along the lower left side including that around the wheel wells. I also took the trunk lid trim off, and then I took the trunk lid itself off. I figure I'd paint the trunk lid separately and then put it back on, being VERY careful not to mar any paint while doing so. That was yesterday. Today I'm taking the trim off the lower right side, and I'm planning to take the front bumper off.
But you didn't take any of this stuff off, and your car looks pretty darn good. Did you consider taking the trim off and then decide against it? My experience so far is that the trim has come off pretty easily with the exception of the part around the front wheel well. In addition to screws and studs with nuts, there are a couple slide-on clips which were a pain the royal-bee-hind to get the trim off of, but I did it with some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet. I was able to get it off without damaging the piece. It was mostly rust that I was fighting against.
My car had been repainted at some point in the relatively distant past, and I can tell that it was done without removing any trim or even weatherstrip as there is, among other evidence, considerable overspray on the trunk and door weatherstrips. This weatherstripping could very well be original, and my plan is to remove it and replace with new after the repaint.
Anyway, my car is yellow, but I'm going to make it red as my other old car, my '73 Custom Cruiser, is also essentially yellow ("honey beige"), and I'm tired of two yellow cars.
I'll probably start another thread on this repaint job and post photos as I go. It could turn out well. It could be a disaster. Either way, it should be fun.
I'm about to start a paint job on my '67 Delta convertible, and I have some questions for you as you have just done yours. I've always read and heard that you should take off as much of the trim as possible for various reasons including avoiding getting paint on it and to be able to get behind and in all the little nooks and crannies that would otherwise be difficult to reach.
From your photos, I notice that you did not remove as much trim as thought I might remove. In fact, from your photos, I don't see any trim that you removed.
I've already taken off the back bumper, tail lights, and all the trim along the lower left side including that around the wheel wells. I also took the trunk lid trim off, and then I took the trunk lid itself off. I figure I'd paint the trunk lid separately and then put it back on, being VERY careful not to mar any paint while doing so. That was yesterday. Today I'm taking the trim off the lower right side, and I'm planning to take the front bumper off.
But you didn't take any of this stuff off, and your car looks pretty darn good. Did you consider taking the trim off and then decide against it? My experience so far is that the trim has come off pretty easily with the exception of the part around the front wheel well. In addition to screws and studs with nuts, there are a couple slide-on clips which were a pain the royal-bee-hind to get the trim off of, but I did it with some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet. I was able to get it off without damaging the piece. It was mostly rust that I was fighting against.
My car had been repainted at some point in the relatively distant past, and I can tell that it was done without removing any trim or even weatherstrip as there is, among other evidence, considerable overspray on the trunk and door weatherstrips. This weatherstripping could very well be original, and my plan is to remove it and replace with new after the repaint.
Anyway, my car is yellow, but I'm going to make it red as my other old car, my '73 Custom Cruiser, is also essentially yellow ("honey beige"), and I'm tired of two yellow cars.
I'll probably start another thread on this repaint job and post photos as I go. It could turn out well. It could be a disaster. Either way, it should be fun.
October 15th, 2012 | 08:07 AM
#129
Lt. Buzzkill (ret.)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,297
From: Western New York
Stumpy, I looked up the package tray info at Ames:
Here's a link to their catalog .pdf file
http://www2.amesperf.com/pdf/P15.pdf
PA475A 1967-68 Mesh Package Tray - 2 Dr. HT exc. GP (RE) 49.00/ea.
PA475B 1967-68 Mesh Package Tray - 4 Dr. HT (RE) ....... 49.00/ea.
If you would like jute padding, please specify in your order by adding a “J” to the end of the part number. It is available for an additional $10.00.
Colors available: Black, red, med. blue, dk. blue, aqua, green, brown, saddle, tan, gold, and maroon.
PA475B 1967-68 Mesh Package Tray - 4 Dr. HT (RE) ....... 49.00/ea.
If you would like jute padding, please specify in your order by adding a “J” to the end of the part number. It is available for an additional $10.00.
Colors available: Black, red, med. blue, dk. blue, aqua, green, brown, saddle, tan, gold, and maroon.
http://www2.amesperf.com/pdf/P15.pdf
October 15th, 2012 | 09:08 AM
#130
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
- Eric
October 16th, 2012 | 06:20 AM
#132
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Jaunty75, Thanks for the Q's. I probably did not do the ole girl justice by not stripping her down but, Ideally all the chrome should come off along with bumpers, however, there was some work done to the car at some point in the past before I got it, even after sitting in a barn for all those years, someone took the time to give her a paint job before parking it. From what I seen, it looked like chrome had come off then. Maybe it was wishful hoping/thinking on my part that all of the trim was taken off because what I seen had no rust behind it and looked good, So I decided not to remove the rest of the chrome with fear of damage and not being able to replace. I chickened out. However, I did a few things that I believe helped me avoid lots of dirt or issues during paint. I High pressured as good as I could behind ALL chrome being left on. I mean I spent a good amount of time washing the car with high pressure in these areas. Then after it dried, I used high pressure air behind ALL chrome left on. I believe that helped me keep hidden dirt to a minimum, as Eric pointed out. Taping off the chrome was a bit of a pain, but I knew I was not going for a show car. Just more or less giving the old girl a face lift. But I held back on keeping the tape close to the body, and kept it on the chrome edge so the paint would dust/seep in behind the chrome, because on my car, more of the trim has a little gap between the body and the trim anyway, so I winged it. Almost became all the time cross eyed by the time I was done, but I got through it. The Only trim pcs that did come off was the big one on the trunk and around the windows, and that came off cuz I had some body work to do on the trunk or I probably would not have taken that off, the window area had to be reworked, so that chrome came off too. Anyway, that's my excuse for being lazy/scared and or whatever else you can think of for not doing it the correct way. Again, I never plan to enter the ole girl in a car show, she's a driver not a show queen, but did turn out looing pretty good if you ask me. As I always say, she turned out good enough for who its for. 
) I'm proud of her and prolly should be kicked in the back side for not doing her right, but maybe next time. Thanks Bill
BTW, I never had any dirt issues from behind the chrome, but did end up with a good many dust bunnys from the paint booth not being what it should have been. The wind caught the service door slamming it, and the dirt from the ceiling has caused me some work in the spring, because as the last coat of clear when on, the finish looked like glass. After letting the booth clear out and walked back in seen dust had fell on the top of the last coat of clear. So a little wet sanding and buffing are order in the spring. FYI
) I'm proud of her and prolly should be kicked in the back side for not doing her right, but maybe next time. Thanks Bill BTW, I never had any dirt issues from behind the chrome, but did end up with a good many dust bunnys from the paint booth not being what it should have been. The wind caught the service door slamming it, and the dirt from the ceiling has caused me some work in the spring, because as the last coat of clear when on, the finish looked like glass. After letting the booth clear out and walked back in seen dust had fell on the top of the last coat of clear. So a little wet sanding and buffing are order in the spring. FYI
October 16th, 2012 | 07:35 AM
#134
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
I've decided not to remove the front bumper. There really isn't a lot of body area that it covers, being so low on the car. I'm also leaving the long trim piece forward of the trunk that the convertible top boot snaps onto because it is on there so securely and looks so good that I'm deathly afraid of bending it or crimping it or worse. I'm also leaving the door handles and lock cylinders for the same reason. I did, however, remove the rearview mirror as that was pretty easy. I also removed the cowl as that came off very easily once I got the $%@#$% wiper arms off.
I also agree with you completely about the car being a driver and not a show queen. It won't look 100% showroom condition, and maybe not even 80% of showroom, when I'm done, but it will look better (I'm assuming!), and I will have done it myself.
October 16th, 2012 | 05:10 PM
#135
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 902
From: Windsor, Ontario
Hi Stumpy: I have seen a couple of your posts before. As an owner of a '67 Delta 88 Custom, you have held my attention. It's great to see someone else take the time and money to restore one of these boats.
Did you find a horn relay? I just purchased one last month. I wasn't an original but it fit perfectly! Here is a link to one on E-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/58-59-60-61-...7ff41b&vxp=mtr
I just read your entire rebuild post. Great work man!
BTW, I love your Cornering Lamps!
Did you find a horn relay? I just purchased one last month. I wasn't an original but it fit perfectly! Here is a link to one on E-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/58-59-60-61-...7ff41b&vxp=mtr
I just read your entire rebuild post. Great work man!
BTW, I love your Cornering Lamps!
October 17th, 2012 | 08:11 AM
#136
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
I also removed the cowl as that came off very easily once I got the $%@#$% wiper arms off.
LOL. I know what you mean, them wiper blades can be a pain in the back side.
I also agree with you completely about the car being a driver and not a show queen. It won't look 100% showroom condition, and maybe not even 80% of showroom, when I'm done, but it will look better (I'm assuming!), and I will have done it myself.
I can't agree with you more Jaunty75, the bottom line is, you see your work and what you have accomplished when finished and you are proud of the end product. And your point of dong it yourself, there is no better satisfaction and as long as your happy with it, thats all that matters. Sure, if we all were millionairs like a Jay Leno we could have it done by people like Chip Foose or someone of that caliber, but we are not, at least I'm not and feel I did a pretty good job and have already had many nice comps on the car. Kinda puts a smile on your face, cuz there ain't no other 1967 Olds Delta 88's in this area that look that good, and believe you will too, turn many heads when dine. So go for it and good luck. The color combo sounds nice, like my 67 Delmont 88 I'm working on now "Candy Apple Red" and "Cream Top". Please keep us updated on your progress. and looking forward to the pics.
Bill
LOL. I know what you mean, them wiper blades can be a pain in the back side.
I also agree with you completely about the car being a driver and not a show queen. It won't look 100% showroom condition, and maybe not even 80% of showroom, when I'm done, but it will look better (I'm assuming!), and I will have done it myself.
I can't agree with you more Jaunty75, the bottom line is, you see your work and what you have accomplished when finished and you are proud of the end product. And your point of dong it yourself, there is no better satisfaction and as long as your happy with it, thats all that matters. Sure, if we all were millionairs like a Jay Leno we could have it done by people like Chip Foose or someone of that caliber, but we are not, at least I'm not and feel I did a pretty good job and have already had many nice comps on the car. Kinda puts a smile on your face, cuz there ain't no other 1967 Olds Delta 88's in this area that look that good, and believe you will too, turn many heads when dine. So go for it and good luck. The color combo sounds nice, like my 67 Delmont 88 I'm working on now "Candy Apple Red" and "Cream Top". Please keep us updated on your progress. and looking forward to the pics.
Bill
October 17th, 2012 | 08:31 AM
#137
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Jaybird, Thanks a bunch. I wish I could have done a more detailed redo and more detailed pics, but I'm just not a documenting kind of person, but I guess just enough to show whats going on. I'm happy that all that have followed have enjoyed it as much as I have. It's so gratifying to see the progress and at some point visualize the end result, it starts getting real exciting at that point. I have had a few people ask "WHY" would you spend your time on that thing? I guess they can't see the beauty on all that Detroit Iron. These car are a thing of the past and are just beautiful to look at, as we understand but maybe no one else does. I guess its kinda like "Only what a mother could love"? I don't know but "WE" that own them love um.
I will check on that relay, and thank you. Thanks again for all the information everyone has passed on, especially all the hard to get items. I will try to do better documenting the Delmont and will attempt to start a differentthread on that one. Thanks again for the words of encouragment, it does help keep ya going. Bill
It's great to see someone else take the time and money to restore one of these boats. Amen brother amen.)
I will check on that relay, and thank you. Thanks again for all the information everyone has passed on, especially all the hard to get items. I will try to do better documenting the Delmont and will attempt to start a differentthread on that one. Thanks again for the words of encouragment, it does help keep ya going. Bill
It's great to see someone else take the time and money to restore one of these boats. Amen brother amen.
)
October 17th, 2012 | 05:22 PM
#139
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
Here's a few photos of my '67 with the trim removed. Haven't had time yet to clean or sand.
But first, to refresh your memory, here is what I started with before the surgery began.
Yes, it doesn't look too bad in these photos, and you may be wondering why I'm bothering to paint it at all.
Well, it's a classic 20-footer. Get up close, and the paint is faded, discolored, and stained. It's just that a bright color like yellow tends to be better than a darker color at hiding the blemishes.
No more trim on the left side. Yes, those are my @$#%@ tools all over the floor. It takes practically every tool known to mankind to get the trim off given the 1,000,001 different ways it can be attached!
Or the right:
Trunk lid, complete with the dead twigs still attached. These were behind the trim piece.
Rear end totally devoid of trim and the trunk lid:
You might be wondering what that crud is just behind the right rear fender outlining the taillight. It's old bondo, I think. It was hidden just fine under the fender extension, so I don't intend to remove it. But this car was apparently hit in the right rear at some point in the past, and a new rear fender was put on. They apparently did some body repair as well as I found some bondo low down behind the right rear wheel. It was well-covered by the trim, though, so you don't see it.
I do not intend to do anything about this bondo. It looks to be a good job, it's hidden by the trim as it should be, the fender looks fine, and I think I'd just make more trouble for myself in trying to fix what really ain't broken.
By the way, just today the paint I ordered arrived. Now I can't wait to see it on the car!
If you want to know what "viper red" looks like, go to this page and look at the chip in the far lower left corner.
http://www.paintforcars.com/Merchant...tChartFull.jpg
But first, to refresh your memory, here is what I started with before the surgery began.
Yes, it doesn't look too bad in these photos, and you may be wondering why I'm bothering to paint it at all.
Well, it's a classic 20-footer. Get up close, and the paint is faded, discolored, and stained. It's just that a bright color like yellow tends to be better than a darker color at hiding the blemishes.
No more trim on the left side. Yes, those are my @$#%@ tools all over the floor. It takes practically every tool known to mankind to get the trim off given the 1,000,001 different ways it can be attached!
Or the right:
Trunk lid, complete with the dead twigs still attached. These were behind the trim piece.
Rear end totally devoid of trim and the trunk lid:
You might be wondering what that crud is just behind the right rear fender outlining the taillight. It's old bondo, I think. It was hidden just fine under the fender extension, so I don't intend to remove it. But this car was apparently hit in the right rear at some point in the past, and a new rear fender was put on. They apparently did some body repair as well as I found some bondo low down behind the right rear wheel. It was well-covered by the trim, though, so you don't see it.
I do not intend to do anything about this bondo. It looks to be a good job, it's hidden by the trim as it should be, the fender looks fine, and I think I'd just make more trouble for myself in trying to fix what really ain't broken.
By the way, just today the paint I ordered arrived. Now I can't wait to see it on the car!
If you want to know what "viper red" looks like, go to this page and look at the chip in the far lower left corner.
http://www.paintforcars.com/Merchant...tChartFull.jpg
Last edited by jaunty75; October 18th, 2012 at 06:05 AM.
October 18th, 2012 | 05:27 AM
#140
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Jaunty75, I like the fact your going so deep with restoring. I wish I would have taken off the bumper(s) now that I seen how much more I could have gotten into. That looks good with everything removed, you have done a nice job removing all chrome trim. Also the paint Viper Red will look very nice on the Convert. I can relate in can hardly wait to see it on the car. It must be killing ya knowing you have the paint already and are not yet ready to spray it on? At least I waited until I was ready to paint, so I didn't suffer anticipation so much... )
Keep the pics coming.
)Keep the pics coming.
October 18th, 2012 | 05:21 PM
#141
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Jaunty75, as I went back to look at the pics again, I have to say you have some good stock to work with. At least your not working to cut, bend, weld and bondo lots of it. She looks as solid as you would want one to be to work with.
October 18th, 2012 | 05:27 PM
#142
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
Stumpy, exactly. I'm not looking to do anything other than clean, sand, prime, and paint. The car is a pretty good core as is. To be perfect, the bumpers should be rechromed, and other front trim is pitted and should ultimately be replaced. That's for another day.
I have some other questions for you. I bought one gallon of primer plus one gallon of paint (plus reducer and hardener, which ends up being 1.375 gallons of paint). I assume this will be enough, especially since it's a convertible, so there's no top to paint. How much primer and paint did you need? How many coats of paint did you put on?
As you can see from the photo of the can above, I bought acrylic enamel. It was cheaper than urethane or lacquer. What kind of paint did you use? I also bought a gallon of clear coat to put on top as the manufacturer says that that will improve the look and make it more durable. Did you use a clear coat finish?
As I've said, I think your car looks gorgeous, and I'm curious to know exactly what you did.
I have some other questions for you. I bought one gallon of primer plus one gallon of paint (plus reducer and hardener, which ends up being 1.375 gallons of paint). I assume this will be enough, especially since it's a convertible, so there's no top to paint. How much primer and paint did you need? How many coats of paint did you put on?
As you can see from the photo of the can above, I bought acrylic enamel. It was cheaper than urethane or lacquer. What kind of paint did you use? I also bought a gallon of clear coat to put on top as the manufacturer says that that will improve the look and make it more durable. Did you use a clear coat finish?
As I've said, I think your car looks gorgeous, and I'm curious to know exactly what you did.
Last edited by jaunty75; October 18th, 2012 at 05:40 PM.
October 19th, 2012 | 11:01 AM
#143
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Good Day Jaunty75, Sounds like you will have plenty of paint/primer. Unless you give it 5-6 coats you will probably have some left over for future use if ever needed. Here is what I did. I bought the paint/clear coat/reducer and hardner from Summit Racing. I did the Urethane Base Coat Clear Coat. The kind of paint is Summit's own. So I can't just go down to the local paint store and have it matched.
I did a conversion of - 2 parts Paint / 1 part reducer / 3 caps full hardner I went with what the directions told me on the can but did a triple batch so we could keep going without having to mix everytime the sprayer went empty.
I primered the car as I went along with each area so I don't really know/remember how much I used in primer but I am guessing 1/2 - 3/4 gal.
As for the paint, I bought 1 gal and sprayed on only 2 coats of paint. I have a little less then a 1/2 gal left, probably closer to 2-2-1/2 qts left over. Enough for any touch up.
As for the clear, I bought a gal of clear and only did 2 coats per directions on the can and then thinned the last top coat just to help blend it all in. Wheather or not that really helped anything, in my mind I thought it would so we did it. I turned the pressure down on the gun and tried to over lap and keep it wet looking as I went. At time's it is hard to see that part, but another set of eyes is good to direct you in areas that you may have missed. The only suggestion I can give is this, unless you have a very CLEAN and SANITARY paint booth, "Put plastic up" on the ceiling, and drap it down the walls. We didn't do that and I have "Dust Bunnys" to rub out of mine after the peckin service door SLAMMED shut, dust off the celiing came raining down and planted itself in the last top coat of clear. Oh I was upset, but it is on the top and can be wet sanded out and buffed, but it's just the idea this paint is, after laying it down is a NO TOUCH paint, it lays down so nice. I am sold on this paint product from SUMMIT. Total cost for everything I think came to just under $400 minus primer cuz as I stated before, I primered as I went and didn't buy that from SUMMIT.
But you should end up with a very nice deep red look with 3-4 coats of clear, and I am kicking myself for not taking the bumper off after I seen what yours looks like, but oh well maybe next time on the Delmont 88 I'll de-chrome and de-bumper..)
Thats what I did, right or wrong it came out very nice. So I guess we will see in a year or two if I should have done something different. And THANKS AGAIN for the copms on the outcome, it makes me smile and say it was worth every minute. Bill
I did a conversion of - 2 parts Paint / 1 part reducer / 3 caps full hardner I went with what the directions told me on the can but did a triple batch so we could keep going without having to mix everytime the sprayer went empty.
I primered the car as I went along with each area so I don't really know/remember how much I used in primer but I am guessing 1/2 - 3/4 gal.
As for the paint, I bought 1 gal and sprayed on only 2 coats of paint. I have a little less then a 1/2 gal left, probably closer to 2-2-1/2 qts left over. Enough for any touch up.
As for the clear, I bought a gal of clear and only did 2 coats per directions on the can and then thinned the last top coat just to help blend it all in. Wheather or not that really helped anything, in my mind I thought it would so we did it. I turned the pressure down on the gun and tried to over lap and keep it wet looking as I went. At time's it is hard to see that part, but another set of eyes is good to direct you in areas that you may have missed. The only suggestion I can give is this, unless you have a very CLEAN and SANITARY paint booth, "Put plastic up" on the ceiling, and drap it down the walls. We didn't do that and I have "Dust Bunnys" to rub out of mine after the peckin service door SLAMMED shut, dust off the celiing came raining down and planted itself in the last top coat of clear. Oh I was upset, but it is on the top and can be wet sanded out and buffed, but it's just the idea this paint is, after laying it down is a NO TOUCH paint, it lays down so nice. I am sold on this paint product from SUMMIT. Total cost for everything I think came to just under $400 minus primer cuz as I stated before, I primered as I went and didn't buy that from SUMMIT.
But you should end up with a very nice deep red look with 3-4 coats of clear, and I am kicking myself for not taking the bumper off after I seen what yours looks like, but oh well maybe next time on the Delmont 88 I'll de-chrome and de-bumper..
)Thats what I did, right or wrong it came out very nice. So I guess we will see in a year or two if I should have done something different. And THANKS AGAIN for the copms on the outcome, it makes me smile and say it was worth every minute. Bill
October 20th, 2012 | 06:10 AM
#145
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
Another bone head thing I did yesterday and just a reminder to all, Don't take your car threw a car wash without remembering to put the NEW rubber in the track for the trunk, makes for a nice watery mess in the trunk. What a dumb%$#... Just thought I'd share my boneheaded move so everyone else could get a laugh out of it too.
)
Last edited by Stumpy; October 20th, 2012 at 06:16 AM.
October 21st, 2012 | 05:22 PM
#146
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
OK, here it is, sanded and with two coats of primer.
Now I have a question for you all. On the side of the can the primer came in, it says "non-sanding primer." I take that to mean that it doesn't need to be sanded prior to spraying on the paint. However, this seems counter to what I've always thought you were supposed to do.
The paint can says to prep the surface by wet sanding with 400-grit paper, and that's what I was planning to do until I was stopped cold in my tracks by the primer can.
So what's the answer? It sure LOOKS like the primed surfaces should be sanded to smooth it out. If the standard procedure is to actually sand the surface, then what's the point of the primer being called "non-sanding."
Stumpy, what did you do?
And one more dumb question. While the instructions on the can of primer talk about how long to wait between coats of primer if you apply more than one, it says nothing about how long to wait before getting on to the wet-sanding and painting. What's the rule on that? 48 hours, I think I read somewhere.
By the way, you'll notice the trunk lid is reattached. After some consideration, and after cleaning it, I decided that putting it back on the car before painting it might, in fact, be safer. It's heavy and unweildy, and the last thing I wanted to have happen is to lose control of it when trying to get the screw holes lined up and end up damaging the new paint. Also, in the "up" position, the lid is actually well-positioned to paint both sides of it.
Now I have a question for you all. On the side of the can the primer came in, it says "non-sanding primer." I take that to mean that it doesn't need to be sanded prior to spraying on the paint. However, this seems counter to what I've always thought you were supposed to do.
The paint can says to prep the surface by wet sanding with 400-grit paper, and that's what I was planning to do until I was stopped cold in my tracks by the primer can.
So what's the answer? It sure LOOKS like the primed surfaces should be sanded to smooth it out. If the standard procedure is to actually sand the surface, then what's the point of the primer being called "non-sanding."
Stumpy, what did you do?
And one more dumb question. While the instructions on the can of primer talk about how long to wait between coats of primer if you apply more than one, it says nothing about how long to wait before getting on to the wet-sanding and painting. What's the rule on that? 48 hours, I think I read somewhere.
By the way, you'll notice the trunk lid is reattached. After some consideration, and after cleaning it, I decided that putting it back on the car before painting it might, in fact, be safer. It's heavy and unweildy, and the last thing I wanted to have happen is to lose control of it when trying to get the screw holes lined up and end up damaging the new paint. Also, in the "up" position, the lid is actually well-positioned to paint both sides of it.
October 21st, 2012 | 05:36 PM
#147
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 902
From: Windsor, Ontario
What's happening now?
Hmmm? I sure would like to see more of Stumpy's restoration.
Stumpy & Jaunty75, your restorations are looking good! Please start your own threads so we can see your cars from the beginning.
Jaunty75: Your restoration with your tan interrior and viper red paint should be awesome!
I love these old boats!
I happen to own one of them as well!
Stumpy & Jaunty75, your restorations are looking good! Please start your own threads so we can see your cars from the beginning.
Jaunty75: Your restoration with your tan interrior and viper red paint should be awesome!
I love these old boats!
I happen to own one of them as well!
Last edited by Jaybird; October 21st, 2012 at 05:42 PM.
October 21st, 2012 | 05:41 PM
#148
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
The interior is the way it was when I bought the car. It's in fine shape and needs nothing. It's the exterior that needs all the work (and will still need things when I'm done painting.)
October 22nd, 2012 | 06:36 AM
#149
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
OK, here it is, sanded and with two coats of primer.
WOW HOLY COW Jaunty75, I can't believe your in primer already, thats fantastic. I see you don't mess around, it took me several weeks to get to the point your at in one weekend. That's great.
Jaunty75, I would for sure sand it out with at least 400 grit SMOOOOTH. You'll be happy you did. The Primer finish is almost if not as important as anything else you do to prepair for a good finish. At least that's what I have always been told by guys that do it for a living. You might be able to get away with it, but I am sure everyone that has painted in the past will tell you the same thing. Wet sand it down and put a good spot light on the area your working on. I was able to see very small pits in the primer that I filled with glazing puddy that I would not have seen otherwise seen without the spot light or bright shop light. I also use a sandable Primer filler for mine.
Non-Sandable versus Sandable primer? I'm not sure what they mean to be positive. Some primers go on like a paint, fairly smooth and harder to sand off, while most go on kinda rough and comes off rather easy by sanding. You'll know right away when you start sanding if you don't get much primer residue off on the sanding pad and or in the water. I would go over it anyway just to be safe. The only thing its gonna cost ya is a little more time, and I don't think you'll be sorry. If nothing else you may find a clump or two that may have been missed. You sure don't want that under the paint, cuz that DEEP RED with show them little dirt ***** like a golf ball if you should miss it. What does anyone else think?
But to answer another question you may have. Sandable primers are normally thicker as they have a tendency to fill and selflevel..and the non sandable used as a dust coat so you can block everything smooth you can start with a couple of coats sandable followed by 2 light coats of non sandable then I like to block and smooth then followed by a coat of sealer. The sealer will help prevent paint shrinkage later on. At times if not 99% of the time if you have any filler in the body and you don't use a sealer or glazing putty over the primer, the paint shrinks around the filled area and you WILL see it at some point after you paint and don't expect it, so be sure to SEAL the primer with a sealer. Hopfully they suggested that when you bought the paint & primer, if not then go down and but ya a gal and seal the heck out of the car.
Again I am NOT a pro by no means, so if anyone else has any thoughts or ideas bring them out so we can share all thoughts on this matter.
Thanks
Bill
Now I have a question for you all. On the side of the can the primer came in, it says "non-sanding primer." I take that to mean that it doesn't need to be sanded prior to spraying on the paint. However, this seems counter to what I've always thought you were supposed to do.
The paint can says to prep the surface by wet sanding with 400-grit paper, and that's what I was planning to do until I was stopped cold in my tracks by the primer can.
So what's the answer? It sure LOOKS like the primed surfaces should be sanded to smooth it out. If the standard procedure is to actually sand the surface, then what's the point of the primer being called "non-sanding."
Stumpy, what did you do?
And one more dumb question. While the instructions on the can of primer talk about how long to wait between coats of primer if you apply more than one, it says nothing about how long to wait before getting on to the wet-sanding and painting. What's the rule on that? 48 hours, I think I read somewhere.
By the way, you'll notice the trunk lid is reattached. After some consideration, and after cleaning it, I decided that putting it back on the car before painting it might, in fact, be safer. It's heavy and unweildy, and the last thing I wanted to have happen is to lose control of it when trying to get the screw holes lined up and end up damaging the new paint. Also, in the "up" position, the lid is actually well-positioned to paint both sides of it.
WOW HOLY COW Jaunty75, I can't believe your in primer already, thats fantastic. I see you don't mess around, it took me several weeks to get to the point your at in one weekend. That's great.
Jaunty75, I would for sure sand it out with at least 400 grit SMOOOOTH. You'll be happy you did. The Primer finish is almost if not as important as anything else you do to prepair for a good finish. At least that's what I have always been told by guys that do it for a living. You might be able to get away with it, but I am sure everyone that has painted in the past will tell you the same thing. Wet sand it down and put a good spot light on the area your working on. I was able to see very small pits in the primer that I filled with glazing puddy that I would not have seen otherwise seen without the spot light or bright shop light. I also use a sandable Primer filler for mine.
Non-Sandable versus Sandable primer? I'm not sure what they mean to be positive. Some primers go on like a paint, fairly smooth and harder to sand off, while most go on kinda rough and comes off rather easy by sanding. You'll know right away when you start sanding if you don't get much primer residue off on the sanding pad and or in the water. I would go over it anyway just to be safe. The only thing its gonna cost ya is a little more time, and I don't think you'll be sorry. If nothing else you may find a clump or two that may have been missed. You sure don't want that under the paint, cuz that DEEP RED with show them little dirt ***** like a golf ball if you should miss it. What does anyone else think?
But to answer another question you may have. Sandable primers are normally thicker as they have a tendency to fill and selflevel..and the non sandable used as a dust coat so you can block everything smooth you can start with a couple of coats sandable followed by 2 light coats of non sandable then I like to block and smooth then followed by a coat of sealer. The sealer will help prevent paint shrinkage later on. At times if not 99% of the time if you have any filler in the body and you don't use a sealer or glazing putty over the primer, the paint shrinks around the filled area and you WILL see it at some point after you paint and don't expect it, so be sure to SEAL the primer with a sealer. Hopfully they suggested that when you bought the paint & primer, if not then go down and but ya a gal and seal the heck out of the car.
Again I am NOT a pro by no means, so if anyone else has any thoughts or ideas bring them out so we can share all thoughts on this matter.
Thanks
Bill
Now I have a question for you all. On the side of the can the primer came in, it says "non-sanding primer." I take that to mean that it doesn't need to be sanded prior to spraying on the paint. However, this seems counter to what I've always thought you were supposed to do.
The paint can says to prep the surface by wet sanding with 400-grit paper, and that's what I was planning to do until I was stopped cold in my tracks by the primer can.
So what's the answer? It sure LOOKS like the primed surfaces should be sanded to smooth it out. If the standard procedure is to actually sand the surface, then what's the point of the primer being called "non-sanding."
Stumpy, what did you do?
And one more dumb question. While the instructions on the can of primer talk about how long to wait between coats of primer if you apply more than one, it says nothing about how long to wait before getting on to the wet-sanding and painting. What's the rule on that? 48 hours, I think I read somewhere.
By the way, you'll notice the trunk lid is reattached. After some consideration, and after cleaning it, I decided that putting it back on the car before painting it might, in fact, be safer. It's heavy and unweildy, and the last thing I wanted to have happen is to lose control of it when trying to get the screw holes lined up and end up damaging the new paint. Also, in the "up" position, the lid is actually well-positioned to paint both sides of it.
October 22nd, 2012 | 06:41 AM
#150
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 117
From: Michigan
[QUOTE=Jaybird;467337]Hmmm? I sure would like to see more of Stumpy's restoration.
Jaybird, everything and ALL pics I took while doing the face lift on the Delta 88 are on this page. I didn't do very well at documenting. I wish I would have done more, but this is all I have. Sorry.
Stumpy & Jaunty75, your restorations are looking good! Please start your own threads so we can see your cars from the beginning.
I WILL start a new thread on the 67 2dr Delmont 88 take more pics as I go. Thanks for your interest in our resto projects.
Bill
Jaybird, everything and ALL pics I took while doing the face lift on the Delta 88 are on this page. I didn't do very well at documenting. I wish I would have done more, but this is all I have. Sorry.
Stumpy & Jaunty75, your restorations are looking good! Please start your own threads so we can see your cars from the beginning.
I WILL start a new thread on the 67 2dr Delmont 88 take more pics as I go. Thanks for your interest in our resto projects.
Bill
October 22nd, 2012 | 07:09 AM
#151
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
Thanks, Stumpy. I started a new thread on this over here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elta-88-a.html
My car has no bondo or body filler on it anywhere that I can see or find, so I'm not worried about shrinkage around a filled spot. The body is actually in remarkably good shape with not even the slightest ding or dent from a parking lot hit. I will sand the primered surface.
I'm going fast on this just because I want to get it done and return our garage to regular use.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elta-88-a.html
My car has no bondo or body filler on it anywhere that I can see or find, so I'm not worried about shrinkage around a filled spot. The body is actually in remarkably good shape with not even the slightest ding or dent from a parking lot hit. I will sand the primered surface.
I'm going fast on this just because I want to get it done and return our garage to regular use.
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