1966 4Door Cutlass Suprrme Hard Top
March 6th, 2019 | 09:43 PM
#41
Running On Empty
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From: Earth
March 7th, 2019 | 07:01 AM
#42
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From: Eure, North Carolina
The interior is all there... Front seat has a couple of rips on the seams. Has been taped to hold it together. Seat belts are lap belts. I’ll get some photos tonight after work. The head liner is all intact. Only thing missing is a clear cover on the interior light over the back driver side seat, and the horn emblem on the steering wheel, that I have noticed so far
March 7th, 2019 | 01:54 PM
#43
The Rocket Astronomer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,475
From: South Texas
D-"? Has been documented on 2 data plates, possibly door edge chrome strip (unconfirmed) for 1965
March 7th, 2019 | 04:31 PM
#44
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From: Eure, North Carolina
The interior is all there. The engine compartment is ok. Needs to be cleaned. The trunk is fair, but needs attention to weatherstripping. There is rust around the channel area where the strip lays for the hood, but it isn’t too bad. Some moisture is making its way to the trunk pan.
March 7th, 2019 | 04:43 PM
#47
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From: Earth
From what others have posted regarding factory tinted windshield/windows - you can barely even tell they're tinted. At least during this time frame. Tinted windshield/windows weren't quite as advanced as they've become over the past 50 years. 
March 7th, 2019 | 04:45 PM
#48
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Does it have a rear window defogger?
Does it have an electric clock?
Does it have door edge chrome (as lunaboy was asking about)?
EDIT: On looking at your pictures, it does look like it has door edge chrome molding.
Does it have an electric clock?
Does it have door edge chrome (as lunaboy was asking about)?
EDIT: On looking at your pictures, it does look like it has door edge chrome molding.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; March 7th, 2019 at 04:50 PM.
March 7th, 2019 | 04:48 PM
#49
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From: Eure, North Carolina
ok makes sense to me. Thanks for all the info. Everyone in this forum seems to know a lot about Oldsmobile’s.👌
March 7th, 2019 | 04:55 PM
#50
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From: Eure, North Carolina
I don’t think it has a rear window defogger. No clock unless it is digital.. there is one square block on the dash that I don’t know what it is. I tried to post a few photos of the interior, but it says I posted too many and I needed to manage my attachments. I did it again with only a few and it said it again. Maybe this thread is reaching its limit? I did just figure out how to use the quote on the reply.
March 8th, 2019 | 09:47 PM
#56
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From: Eure, North Carolina
I never tried to change the size of my photos on this phone. I have changed file sizes from my computer. Hell- I cant even remember the password I started to join this thread. I didn’t know I wasn’t logged in until I tried to look at photos on another thread, and it stated I didn’t have permission to view the details in the file. I did get a new password finally sent to me after visiting the full site, and stepping away from the compressed phone version. I was trying to reset my password on this mobile device and getting an endless loop of the same page saying I would get an email with directions on how to reset. Amazing what happens when you step back and think a little, instead of letting technology try to do it for you. Thanks again for the advice...��
March 9th, 2019 | 06:59 PM
#57
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 142
From: Eure, North Carolina
I saw the thread for window weatherstripping, and the link for Steele rubber and thought I would check it out... I just ordered a free catalogue, and now I wait...😁 I am amazed at the wealth of information here at your fingertips. You guys are awesome...
March 10th, 2019 | 10:28 AM
#58
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 540
From: Saskatchewan
I never tried to change the size of my photos on this phone. I have changed file sizes from my computer. Hell- I cant even remember the password I started to join this thread. I didn’t know I wasn’t logged in until I tried to look at photos on another thread, and it stated I didn’t have permission to view the details in the file. I did get a new password finally sent to me after visiting the full site, and stepping away from the compressed phone version. I was trying to reset my password on this mobile device and getting an endless loop of the same page saying I would get an email with directions on how to reset. Amazing what happens when you step back and think a little, instead of letting technology try to do it for you. Thanks again for the advice...��
March 10th, 2019 | 02:51 PM
#61
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Posts: 20,597
From: Earth
When service stations were once in years past correctly referred to as 'service stations', various service stations placed these type holders in vehicles. As I recall, they were placed somewhere in the vehicle (the dash would have been a good place) so that a card indicating when the next service call (oil, filters, tires, etc) was due for maintenance was held in the little device. I'm not certain of your age/location, etc. but Sinclair is a producer of petroleum products and they were FAR more prevalent in yesteryear than they are today. You'll find Sinclair gas (service) stations, but they're far and few between these days.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Spot...yUlYh8M:&vet=1
http://www.businessformsbyfeld.com/s...e-holders.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=Spot...yUlYh8M:&vet=1
http://www.businessformsbyfeld.com/s...e-holders.html
Last edited by Vintage Chief; March 10th, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
March 14th, 2019 | 04:09 PM
#63
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From: Eure, North Carolina
I got my catalogue from Steele rubber today😁...I have been busy working on the ole lady’s truck for about 5 days. She has a 2002 Envoy. Changed the alternator and found a leaking water pump. Fixed that and also found the front differential had no oil in it after I herd some noise. Took the drive shaft out for the front because there was a lot of slop in the yoke, but that wasn’t enough. Being I have to replace the diff now, I didn’t want to take the whole front end apart to disengage the axles, I broke out the 4” grinder and cut the axles out. Left the boot to the universals still attached and popped the axles out the case. Bearings and all came out. Lol Now she has full time 2 weel drive, and I am out of the dog house for a while. She was mad at me for buying a 50+ year old car and not keeping up on her truck. I don’t know there is a problem unless she tells me there is one.
So today I got to look into the cutlass a little better. I took the passenger valve cover off hoping I could see a clean top end, and whallah !!! No gunk and very little build up. I think I’m gonna have fun working on this car
So today I got to look into the cutlass a little better. I took the passenger valve cover off hoping I could see a clean top end, and whallah !!! No gunk and very little build up. I think I’m gonna have fun working on this car
March 15th, 2019 | 05:00 AM
#65
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From: Eure, North Carolina
yes it is a 4.2 liter...of course now I would need the differential, the axles, and the switch that bolts to it that engages the 4x4. Let me ponder on that while I get my funds together. I’ll get back with you on that thanks👍
March 16th, 2019 | 01:27 PM
#66
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Eure, North Carolina
Rebuild kit for the mastercylinder
Can I get some direction on buying the best kit to rebuild the MC? There are so many aftermarket suppliers out there, and I am curious as to what other members have had success with.
I also will need a water pump, and don’t want to buy junk that I will need to replace again in a year. Thanks in advance for any help.🤔
I also will need a water pump, and don’t want to buy junk that I will need to replace again in a year. Thanks in advance for any help.🤔
March 16th, 2019 | 03:40 PM
#68
Old School Olds
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 9,037
From: Marble Falls TX
For the price of these things, it's just easier to buy one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Maste...c/371059096242
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Maste...c/371059096242
March 16th, 2019 | 03:57 PM
#69
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From: Eure, North Carolina
I was leaning towards replacement, I had a 64 Pontiac Bonneville and a 66 Pontiac tempest back in the days, and I knew there wasn’t a whole lot to rebuilding this thing. Once I get the breaks fixed, I can actually drive the cutlass around a little bit. I haven’t even tried to put it in gear yet. Thanks for the link. I think i actually clicked on that same post earlier today.
March 16th, 2019 | 05:03 PM
#71
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You can replace the M/C or rebuild the original but if you replace it keep the original core. I would have the original water pump rebuilt. I sent mine out to a place in Oregon. Can't remember the name off hand but it was around 120.00. Glad to see your keeping the car as original as possible. Too many butcher's out there!
March 16th, 2019 | 05:53 PM
#73
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From: Eure, North Carolina
Yes I want to keep it original and keep the parts that I have to replace. I took the MC loose from the booster today and found the shaft has pushed the plunger all the way in and it was stuck. Wasn’t really dirty or crudded up, the white grease had just started to harden up and stuck it in there. I might be able to save it, just ran out of time to try and free it up. I will check on the water pump rebuild soon as I can. I started the cutlass up again today and let it get to operating temperature while keeping an eye on everything, and after shuting it down I had antifreeze dripping from the pump. I did notice the first tome I ran the car that the bearings on the pump were whining . The car does make good heat inside and I found the lights and signals work. The new tires the man put on it will save me some cash for other issues. The boots on the steering components need help. They did keep everything greased up regularly so there isn’t any free play in the tie rods and links.
I did get a little done today, more of touring the whole vehicle looking for issues than actual work, but my day was good.
I did get a little done today, more of touring the whole vehicle looking for issues than actual work, but my day was good.
March 19th, 2019 | 02:10 PM
#74
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From: Eure, North Carolina
😁👍😁
Good news for me today😁 I recurved my title from Georgia and a niece letter from the old guy telling me to look him up if I am ever down his way... People in the South are so friendly... Anyways; wish me luck with the DMV here in North East North Kacky Lacky. I may be driving the old car soon.
March 20th, 2019 | 06:57 AM
#78
Smokin' BBQ Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 709
From: Spencer Mtn, NC
Welcome to the site and glad to see another Olds in eastern NC getting ready to run!
March 20th, 2019 | 07:01 AM
#79
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From: Eure, North Carolina
The vin# matches the car. When I bought the vehicle the man said he didn’t have a title but he used a bill of sale to get the registration. I bought the vehicle and he was to go to the dmv and get me paper work. He called me on the Monday following the purchase and told me the dmv had a record of the paper work and I will get it soon. This is what I got. It is a replacement title or so it says, and I also have the tax papers in it from him transferring it from his mother’s possession. The only issues I have now is if I sell it and it isn’t what the title states, will I have issues later. We will find out soon.
March 20th, 2019 | 07:16 AM
#80
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From: Earth
The incorrect MODEL listed on the title is most likely a clerical error/oversight. Errors do occur. As long as the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the vehicle you should have no issues. You 'should' (in your best interests) apply for a NC title so you have a NC title in your possession. The sooner you do it the easier it would be to justify the request for a corrected title demonstrating the correct MODEL listed on the NC title. IMO, I wouldn't hold on to the GA title any longer than necessary. IOW, I wouldn't personally sign-off on a GA title to transfer ownership when/if you sell the vehicle. I'd prefer to sign-off/transfer a NC title since vehicle should be registered in the state of NC. JS
