1955 Oldsmobile rocket 88
#1
1955 Oldsmobile rocket 88
New to this forum but not to old cars. Am thinking of getting an 1955 Oldsmobile is there much difference in the model lines of this year of olds. The model I can find are the super 88,the Rocket 88 and 98 .Are are there any more ?
Which is the most desirable? What things do I look for on this year of olds and is there a good resource for this year?
I own a 57 Chevy now and the parts are easy to get. Lots of suppliers out there. Are parts easy to get for the olds.
Thank in advance I will be back with more question for sure. Peter
Which is the most desirable? What things do I look for on this year of olds and is there a good resource for this year?
I own a 57 Chevy now and the parts are easy to get. Lots of suppliers out there. Are parts easy to get for the olds.
Thank in advance I will be back with more question for sure. Peter
#2
the 98 is the top of the line. The Super 88 is the mid-range model. The 88 is the low-end ride. As for other models, I believe the Starfire was included in the 55 model year. If so, it would have been a convertible on a Super 88 body, with a far more luxurious trim package.
Olds is not Chevy, so do not expect parts availability to be like the tri-5 Chevys. At the same time, the parts are out there. There a some pretty good Olds suppliers, like Fusick's.
Because Olds is not Chevy, in terms of quality or numbers, it is sure to draw more attention.
Buy the best you can afford and enjoy it!
Olds is not Chevy, so do not expect parts availability to be like the tri-5 Chevys. At the same time, the parts are out there. There a some pretty good Olds suppliers, like Fusick's.
Because Olds is not Chevy, in terms of quality or numbers, it is sure to draw more attention.
Buy the best you can afford and enjoy it!
#4
The Starfire actually started in 54. If you buy one, you will develope a love/hate relationship with ebay. Nobody does the repro stuff like they do for 55-57 Chevy's. They are great cars.
#5
Oldsmobile Options
Petmil,
There are lots of options: PS, PB, leather seats, a/c, power seats, power windows, tinted or not tinted windows, 4bbl or 2bbl carbs, lots of little stuff like color combos. You could special order,mix and match, most any combo of top and bottom colors that were listed (some 19 or 20 in all.) Also, to add to the body styles, were the Holiday (a non post 4 door and coup,) and the Starfire which was the 98 convertible. The super 88 convertible was just the Super convertible (no Starfire 88's.) Most all Supers and Starfires were leather interior 4bbl cars, but you could almost order anything on a special order basis, so you can find all kinds of odd combos.
We have been swaping parts for almost 60 years now, so it gets hard to find an all orginal car. But try to get the most complete car in the best condition that you can find. Often an old restoration is cheaper than taking a beater and restoring it from the ground up.
Plan on spending at least twice as much on a Olds restoration compared to your Chevy. It just works that way. Olds parts are harder to find and hardly any repops are made for the 50s era cars. It's well worth it! Your car will stand out in the crowd. I have been to shows with 1500 to 2000 cars and I was the only 55 convertible in the show. Not so with 55 Chevys. There were a dozen of them.
Generaly, convertibles and two doors are your best bet as far as resale is concerned. But you will generally tie up more in restoration than what you can recover in re-sale right now. But you'll have something really special.
Good luck...Tedd.
There are lots of options: PS, PB, leather seats, a/c, power seats, power windows, tinted or not tinted windows, 4bbl or 2bbl carbs, lots of little stuff like color combos. You could special order,mix and match, most any combo of top and bottom colors that were listed (some 19 or 20 in all.) Also, to add to the body styles, were the Holiday (a non post 4 door and coup,) and the Starfire which was the 98 convertible. The super 88 convertible was just the Super convertible (no Starfire 88's.) Most all Supers and Starfires were leather interior 4bbl cars, but you could almost order anything on a special order basis, so you can find all kinds of odd combos.
We have been swaping parts for almost 60 years now, so it gets hard to find an all orginal car. But try to get the most complete car in the best condition that you can find. Often an old restoration is cheaper than taking a beater and restoring it from the ground up.
Plan on spending at least twice as much on a Olds restoration compared to your Chevy. It just works that way. Olds parts are harder to find and hardly any repops are made for the 50s era cars. It's well worth it! Your car will stand out in the crowd. I have been to shows with 1500 to 2000 cars and I was the only 55 convertible in the show. Not so with 55 Chevys. There were a dozen of them.
Generaly, convertibles and two doors are your best bet as far as resale is concerned. But you will generally tie up more in restoration than what you can recover in re-sale right now. But you'll have something really special.
Good luck...Tedd.
#8
great info. I know what you mean about doing a retore, It's best to find someone who has done and spent all the money for a good restore then spend the money yourself..
More info pls...Peter
More info pls...Peter
#9
In 1955, Olds offered three models, starting with the "Series 88," which came in 2 and 4-door sedan and coupe versions. The base engine was a 324 V-8 rated at 185 hp. Optional was the same engine in a 202 hp version.
Next up was the Super 88, which came in the same four body styles as the 88 plus a convertible. Base engine was the optional engine in the 88.
At the high end was the Series 98, which came as a 4-door sedan, 2 or 4-door coupe, or a convertible which, as noted earlier, was called the "Starfire." D. Yaros is correct in that the name Starfire was first used in 1954. In '53, the 98 convertible was called the "Fiesta." In '52 and earlier, it was just called "convertible coupe" or "deluxe convertible coupe."
The base engine on the '54 98 was the same as the Super 88. Only one engine option, the 202-hp, 324 V-8, was offered in the Super 88 and 98 lines.
Last edited by jaunty75; August 14th, 2010 at 12:28 PM.
#12
![Thumbs up](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif)
DITTOS! WELCOME to CO! Good luck in your search; you can't go wrong w/ a '55 Model Olds; it's one of my all-time favorite 50s Olds around...ALL the models were neat and as has been said; the Combinations and options are almost endless. Happy Motoring!
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Cool](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#13
Hi out there Olds guys. I to just picked up a 1955 Olds Rocket 88 two door hardtop with 74k miles on it. It runs like a top even though in storage for many years. The only thing missing is the door lock button on the passenger side door. I looked around on line for one but nothing has come up so am wondering if any of you out there have a spare in your bits and pieces boxes that you might turn loose of? My Olds has the original owners manual in the glove box with the original sale date, dealership and buyer in it. So Cool. Thanks. Hot rod Curt.
#14
In '53, the 98 convertible was called the "Fiesta." In '52 and earlier, it was just called "convertible coupe" or "deluxe convertible coupe."
A slight correction on this one. They did make a 98 convertible that sold for $2,963 and 7,521 were produced. The Fiesta was a cousin to the Buick Skylark. It sold for a whopping $5,715 and only 458 were produced. A decent 53 Fiesta is easily a 6 figure car today.
A slight correction on this one. They did make a 98 convertible that sold for $2,963 and 7,521 were produced. The Fiesta was a cousin to the Buick Skylark. It sold for a whopping $5,715 and only 458 were produced. A decent 53 Fiesta is easily a 6 figure car today.
#15
Hi out there Olds guys. I to just picked up a 1955 Olds Rocket 88 two door hardtop with 74k miles on it. It runs like a top even though in storage for many years. The only thing missing is the door lock button on the passenger side door. I looked around on line for one but nothing has come up so am wondering if any of you out there have a spare in your bits and pieces boxes that you might turn loose of? My Olds has the original owners manual in the glove box with the original sale date, dealership and buyer in it. So Cool. Thanks. Hot rod Curt.
![EEK!](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#16
WOW! That's a pretty penny. Thanks for the onfo, the old girl is not a show car so I'll have to figure something else out.
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
#17
Here is a great one to pick up.
If I had money and space, I'd be on it.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2935686669.html
Gene
If I had money and space, I'd be on it.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2935686669.html
Gene
#18
WOW! That's a pretty penny. Thanks for the onfo, the old girl is not a show car so I'll have to figure something else out.
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
#20
WOW! That's a pretty penny. Thanks for the onfo, the old girl is not a show car so I'll have to figure something else out.
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
I have another question though. There are small square holes ( not drilled) in the rocker panel on the lower edge of the fender and under the door. They appear to be for a stainless trim strip but there is no evidence that there was ever one installed on the car. I have looked at many photos on line and none of the 88's have a stainless strip there, although several of the 98's have had one. Was that an option for the 88? If so are they re-popped? Thanks. Hot Rod Curt
The square holes presented a problem for me when I tried to install with the fasteners that came with it, I couldn't make them work at all, ended up making a few out of strap steel and the rest I bought at a fastener store that finished the job up.
Those tail tale square holes tell me that this was a factory option, rare in a 88....Tedd
#21
How about this one?
http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/2917852854.html
Or this one
http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/2928007542.html
Gene
http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/2917852854.html
Or this one
http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/2928007542.html
Gene
#23
My Olds 88 & 98
My Olds projects are coming along. I finally got the 88 2D HT running but it still needs some help. The correct tune up parts are on order. Looking forward to a cruise soon. The 98 4DHT is still setting in the carport looking at me every time I walk by. :-)
#24
HELP!!! I need to know how to replace the heater core in my 1955 Olds Super 88, 2 door hardtop. I purchased a shop manual but heater core replacement is not listed. Where can I find a instruction sequence to do the job. Thanks.
#25
heater core
The best as i remember.
Disconnect heater hoses (on the firewall)
Remove the defroster cable from the valve at the top of the heater body( inside the car)
There should be 6 or 8 Phillips head screws holding the defroster outlets remove these and this should free up the defroster housing from the heater box (You are still inside the car dash)
The heater core is now behind a sheet metal cover,remove the screws holding it and the heater core should be exposed and removable.
As I remember it most everything comes out from inside the dash, I probably have missed somethings but once you start pulling it apart it should be obvious.....Tedd
Disconnect heater hoses (on the firewall)
Remove the defroster cable from the valve at the top of the heater body( inside the car)
There should be 6 or 8 Phillips head screws holding the defroster outlets remove these and this should free up the defroster housing from the heater box (You are still inside the car dash)
The heater core is now behind a sheet metal cover,remove the screws holding it and the heater core should be exposed and removable.
As I remember it most everything comes out from inside the dash, I probably have missed somethings but once you start pulling it apart it should be obvious.....Tedd
#27
I know this is an old post, but any time you remove heater hoses, you should consider them sacrificial. Gently cut the hoses lengthwise from firewall in a couple places with a razor knife. Then peel the hoses off in a circular manner. You want to use as little force as possible on heater hose removal. The cores are very easy to break just by pulling and twisting the hoses.
I just replaced my heater core. About $275 to get the original recored with V-core, the same core used in the original. I had a hard time getting the old one out. With all the screws removed, it didn't want to move. Ended up using a crowbar gently to get core unstuck from the original sealer used around the core. There are two screws behind the shroud that hold the core frame to the shroud. When you pry it out, pry around the far right side of the shroud, closest to the right fender, as that is the stiffest part of the shroud and core frame. There are no screws going from the under hood box to the heater shroud inside the car.
I also got the original clock to work. Ask if you are interested.
I just replaced my heater core. About $275 to get the original recored with V-core, the same core used in the original. I had a hard time getting the old one out. With all the screws removed, it didn't want to move. Ended up using a crowbar gently to get core unstuck from the original sealer used around the core. There are two screws behind the shroud that hold the core frame to the shroud. When you pry it out, pry around the far right side of the shroud, closest to the right fender, as that is the stiffest part of the shroud and core frame. There are no screws going from the under hood box to the heater shroud inside the car.
I also got the original clock to work. Ask if you are interested.
Last edited by kirkwoodken; October 15th, 2014 at 10:24 PM. Reason: added more info:
#29
You should start a new post (probably in the vintage forum) rather than hijack this old post.
When you do post a new thread are you looking for weather striping or fuzzes in the window channel/ wind wings. A picture or better description would help. And yes they are viable through Fusick or Steel rubber products...... Tedd
When you do post a new thread are you looking for weather striping or fuzzes in the window channel/ wind wings. A picture or better description would help. And yes they are viable through Fusick or Steel rubber products...... Tedd
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