hope this works. This was actually in January when i first brought it home.

 

Hope its working, had to throw in one of my Vette

 

Ok i have been working on the car while ive been waiting to learn the picture routine. I have more on the camera i need to load up. Im planning to build a rotisserie and do a body off resto. More pics soon.

 

Anyone know where to get that seal between the evaporator in the cowl and the inside plenum?

 

Motor has been machined, bored .020, crank turned .010/.010, balanced, 3 angle valve job, ported and polished, Erson 504 lift cam from Mark(CutlassEFI), high volume oil pump, Comp roller tip lifters, Summit 5 qt. pan. Egge pistons, all partially assembled, waiting on a new timing chain cover to finish assembly. Oh and its balanced.

 

Wow this is like watching the shows on the Velocity channel where they build a car in an hour. Your just a couple of posts away from finishing.

Nice car!

 

These are not necessarily in order. I bought the car not running, it was relatively easy to get it running and it just purred. However the motor was soooooo greasy i had to pull it to clean everything. It had smog pump set up which i believe is all there, the pump turns easily if anyone needs the setup let me know, as it wont be going back on the car. More pics soon.

 

Well its been a while since i posted anything about my build. With my job I dont get to work on it as much as i would like. Joe Padavano told me about a guy Dave Ray, who converts points type distributors to HEI or MSD. I contacted him, sent him my dist. Just got it back yesterday. I had an original UHV ignition box from another 67 442, Dave put the HEI module in it. So it will look like original UHV ignition with updated internals. I also sandblasted the rearend, had a new posi put in it. I put in all new bearings, seals, brakes, and painted it.

 

Heres the old posi if you can see one of the small gears is missing half, dont know where it was as it was not inside the housing? Also i have concerns that the frame may have been tweeked at some time, does this look like some serious torque to pull the frame in alignment? This is just behind the drivers front suspension assembly.

 

Wow, you are moving right along!
Nice vette....total guess...62?

That could be an indicator that the frame was tweaked...or somebody gave it quite a yank with a tow hook.
When my 442 was picked up, they put the hooks into the frame in the rear causing two very small cracks that I had to repair......

 

I agree, looks like it has been tied down. It is to easy to put the hooks in these places, seen this many times in the past.

 

My guess, 65 or 66

 

Thanks for the replys guys, The Vette is a 65, I bought it in 1976 paid $3300 for it. In those days muscle cars were cheap. Wish I has of had the insight and money to buy a lot more. I restored the Vette again about 9 years ago and wanted to do something different. So I bought the hood, front spoiler and painted it a 2000 GM green metallic with a white stripe. I love it. I also rebuilt another motor 383 full roller, bilit MSD, Weiand Stealth intake, Holley, ceramic headers, balanced. It runs scary good. Last year I put a Vintage Air system in it, rebuilt the front suspension and put Steroids rack...... I love it!

 

Yes the pull appears to be straight down on the frame. The drivers side spring was broken the unboxed portion of the frame just under the passenger door has the bottom lip bent up some and I can see a sizeable gouge in the frame just where the lower control arm bolts up. Also on the passenger side rear shock mount I cannot get my fingers on top of the shock mount to hole the nuts for the shock bolts, where as on the drivers side there is plenty of room. The passenger rear frame horn is slightly bent, and there is some body damage pass. lower rear. No idea what happened but im thinking someone ran over something big to cause all this damage. The pass. rear floor was also pushed up to the inside but easily knocked back down with a rubber mallet.The damage seems to have gone from the drivers front across and back down the pass. side. Even with a broken spring the car did sit very level and all the fender, hood, and door seams are perfect. The gap at the trunk lid and passenger rear fender is slightly off. Not to worry ill get it straight, it only had minimal rust issues. It came from Cali.

 

To me the tear on the frame hole looks like maybe a pull to straighten the frame? and only cal emission equipped cars had smog pumps in 67.

 

I am inclined to agree with you on the frame being straightened. Im going to take it soon to a friend who has a frame machine let him check it out. Yes its a Cali. car but the smog stuff is off now for good, its for sale if anyone needs it. The pump turns good and its all complete as far as i know.

 

Update:
My post are all over the place, I cant find the one which shows the quarter panel replacement.
Rotisserie was finished a couple of weeks ago. I put the motor and trans in with the Gear Vendors OD, in to adjust the trans tunnel... done.
Today I pulled the body and put it on my rotisserie, talk about scary! I was just hoping my welds were all good, and so far so good. The body is on, it rotates and my locks work. I used trailer axels with bearings for the rotating heads, maybe more work and expense but I think it should rotate easier. I had to fab stops into it to hold it in position. The first stop works but would be difficult to "unlock" if im alone. The second design works much better and I can unlock it myself without help. Anyway so far so good, Im pretty excited about it. Alot more work to do but my body is so clean, almost rust free. The body bolts came out very easily, one was almost loose, I got lucky there. Frame number matches the VIN, so cool there. I bought myself for Christmas all new Legendary interior, I have a ton of new toys still in boxes. Cant wait to install it all.
Steve

 

Well it wont let me load 5, security token thing? The round disc with lug nuts is one of the rotating heads in early development.

 

I read on a Chevelle forum some guys were using two chains cris-crossed bolted to the seat belt points. I can tell you it works great, but it was back heavy. Lifted it from the side with a cherry picker, rolled the frame out the other side on dollies. Piece of cake!

 

More

 

Your getting pretty serious now. Cool idea using the seat belt holes that way. Bumper is nice, and the car looks pretty solid.

 

The car is very solid, only rust was passenger floor board from heater core, bottom of one front fender, and some pin holes in the trunk. All easy fixes. Ill take some more pics of the rotisserie, it came out pretty good i think.... I hope! I have some little videos of it but i have no idea how to load them.
Steve

 

Ok Oldstata, I took some close up pics of the rotating heads on the rotisserie. I made 2 different STOPS to hold it in clocked positions.
These 3 pics show the second design "stop" It works easier than the one on the other end. This one slides out from the side, so I can easily rock the body a little and pull it out.

 

This one has the pull pin, first design. It works good but I have to be straight in front of the body to pull it, the spring is fairly strong, so no way I can pull it and turn the body enough to get it released. I had the round disc cut with a 2 7/8 hole in the middle. I drilled all the holes in both for the pull pin. Since that didnt work as good as i hoped, I changed the design to the side pull in the first pics. But I had to add the band, around the disc then drill the clocked holes.
Really just one of them will hold the body in position, however all my holes came out the same so i can lock both ends.

 

When I put the flat band around the disc, I aligned up one end and welded it. Then I just bent it around the disc. It bent around pretty easily except for the last couple of inches. So I ground flat the edges of some large washers and welded them to the band about 1/2 inch from each end. Then I put some 1/2 all thread through the washers and tightened it with my impact. It was like a giant hose clamp...lol. That pulled the ends together perfect for me to weld them together, then welded the band around the disc, worked great.

 

[envy]
Very nice. I aspire to making one of those things one day.
[/envy]

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric, It was alot of fun to build, and cheaper than buying one. Using trailer axles with bearings is probably overkill, and a little more expensive than a pipe in a pipe, but it works great. So far im pleased with the results.
Steve