I am working on a 700 442 convertible and decided to start with front frame and suspension. I have the F control arms removed and ready to replace bushings, what the best way to get old ones out and new ones in?

 

The "best" way is with the correct Kent Moore tool. The most common way (other than paying someone else) is to drill or burn out the rubber then collapse the remaining metal shell so it falls out. I've burned them out with a propane torch. It's smelly, smoky, and messy, but it works. I've heard from others who have used a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out and that seems like a really nice solution. Now I have a hydraulic press, so I do it that way.

On installation of the new bushings, be sure to wipe some wheel bearing grease on the mating surfaces before pressing them in. Also be sure to clean up any burrs on the control arm holes. Where the bushing passes through two walls of the control are (like on the lower arms), cut a piece of angle iron or hardwood to wedge between the sides of the arm first so it doesn't distort. I've used a large bench vice and even a sledge hammer to install bushings. You MUST use a large socket or piece of thickwall pipe that fits on the outer flange of the bushing. Do not just hammer on the rubber - all that does is waste energy and make your arm tired.

Oh, and be SURE to put the upper arm shaft in the arm BEFORE pressing the first bushing in. Do NOT ask me how I know this...

 

Also, the correct tools are often available for "free rental" from the chain auto parts stores. Just "buy" the tool, take it home, use it, and then bring it back for a full refund (some will make a copy of your license and won't even charge your card).

- Eric

 

Check out my "front end job" thread link below for hints and tips.
I rented the ball joint press and used it, along with some scraps of metal, pvc pipe fittings, and a 5/8" flat washer...
Bushing fun starts here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post290210

 

Hello:
The local shop behind me did the work for less than $100.00 for all the bushings and ball joints and had them done the next day. You can use that time to clean and detail the front end area.
Thanks Ron

 

Way cool - sounds like a great deal to me.
Around here, double that amount IF you find a shop willing to do it and not loose anything. Been through that in 2003, not going that route again...

 

I did the drill-out-the-rubber (5/16" maybe ?) method and then a few whacks on the remaining sleeve with a chisel. All came out pretty easy consiering their condition. For the lower balljoints, I just propped the end of the arm up on an old throwout bearing and whacked the stem with a hand sledge. 2-3 whacks and they were out.

I took my freshly painted arms, lower BJs, & bushings to a local hotrod shop. They nicely did all of my front & rears (14 bushings) for $60 cash...took about an hour.

 

$60 was a deal!

 

Yeah.. Always ask for the 'paying cash & don't need a receipt' discount !

 

The easiest way to remove the bushings is with an air powered hammer. Contrary to advice posted above, I would never use a sledge hammer to install them. Find someone with a hydraulic press to install them.

 

I wire brush then soak them with rust penetrant, and knock them out with a blunt edged air chisel. Use spacers like Joe P. described and press the new ones in with a big vise. If you are worried about the amount of press fit, you can use blue Loctite as the lubricant when installing the new ones.

 

I use a sawzall, cut the bushings in half and hammer out the two metal pieces that remain in arm holes. To replace I use the parts store ball joint kit, a piece of PVC pipe that I cut into a shell that fits around the bushing, and press it in with the C clamp ball joint tool.

The PVC piece works great. Pop it out and reuse on the next arm. If you are going to paint them, do the above first then paint.

Just did these last week.

DSC_0217-1_zps4ff67aad.jpg

 

very pretty
this is not a Michigan car, is it?

 

I also most did give up and buy new ones but I know a couple guys who work in service dept at a Ford dealer. They removed all the bushings and ball joints for a case of beer.

 

I suspect the handling improvement is caused by the type of bushings. You can get stock rubber, polyurethane, and steel bushings for stock arms. I have removed the original bushings from stock arms a number of times, and the technique I outlined above worked quickly and easily.

 

I broke a 6" bench vise trying to press them. Ended up buying a 12 ton press back when you could find them for $79.

 

The improvement from tubular arms has less to do with the bushing type than it does with the updated geometry designed into them. Classic cars are limited by the stock upper arms to something like 2degrees of positive castor. The tubular and adjustable upper arms can have as much as 6 degrees- and this can make an extreme difference in the way the car handles.