Building a 72 442 vert. Was originally just going to do it driver quality but one thing lead to another. I am getting close to beginning the reassembly phase thought I might share some of my experiences so far - hopefully others will add their "truisms & resto postulates" to this thread so, in no particular order:


1) There are no "good" used non A/C kick panels - buy the repros and move on


2) Doesnt matter what the price is - stay away from Brother's Automotive for your blood pressure's sake.


3) It is AGAIN confirmed anything to do with a resto will take 2 to 3 X more than estimated - both in time and treasure.


4) 40 year old convertibles from Wisconsin will have rust - and probably lots of it - you just didnt find it before you bought it.


4A) Proper rust repair will be your biggest single cost.


5) There are certain resto items unique to the different suppliers. Dont assume because Fusick doesnt have it that someone else wont.


6) Go ahead - change out those wiring harnesses, but sometimes you can find some excellent deals on good used OE items - just check for brittleness and clean all the contacts.


7) Whatever part you are looking for on ebay, search for it under every possible entry tag (i.e. 4 spd rear axle stiffeners - are they differential reinforcements, frame braces, differential braces, axle support, axle stiffener, etc...)


8) No matter how good the picture looks, expect to do some additional work to that used part you just bought.


9) Practice your metal polishing on scrap materials before hitting the real thing.


10) Dash board & wiring harness disassembly isnt as scary as it looks.


11) Have a good set of box end wrenches with the built in ratchet.


12) There's lots of fasteners/grommets that you can buy at your local hardware store that's going to be the exact same thing you're gonna pay through the nose for from the resto suppliers.


13) Rock Auto just might have that part - at half the price you'd pay anywhere else.


14) You dont save any time by not completely dissasembling the part you're working on (if you're wanting to do it right)


15) When you're ready to place an order for parts, wait another day - you'll think of something else you need and will save some money on freight.


16) The common spray paints today (Krylon, Rustoleum) seem to have been reformulated - they run easily and take forever to dry. Try the Eastwood's stuff - they seem to perform like the old Kryon products used to.


17) Brian Trick knows A LOT about differentials and manual transmissions.


18) Oldspackrat has been a wonderful used parts supplier.


19) Dont use anything but the green scotch brites on your fender wells.


20) Those repro tires are worth every penny when you mount them up on your freshly painted SS3's

 

Very nice collection of truisms. Now lets see the car.

 

Very good words of wisdom!!

I will add:

Car restoration is not for the weak of heart or bankbook! That $5000 purchased car project, will exceed $20,000+++ to restore.

If your wife/ or husband, does not like the car from the start, you will be miserable!

If your doing a parent/ child project and one party is not 100% dedicated, come up with a plan B and move on! Kids and/or parents seem to have different priorities sometimes!

Some cars are not meant to be restored! You can't save all of them.

 

Tripple the time you estimate it is going to take you

 

1. Take plenty of pictures of anything thing you disassemble,will for sure help when you get ready to put everything back together.
2. Use zip lock bags to label where all nuts and bolt came from.
3. Expect to blow your budget.
4. Don't cut corners.
5. Seek advise or opinions from others.
6. Have quality tools and materials.
7. Build your car to what is going to make you happy.
8. Don't get in a hurry.
9. Also Brian Trick and Scott are 2 honest guys and neither try to rip you off.
10.Some of the local Auto Parts stores have many parts that can be used on your restoration,starters,batteries. alternators,fan belt etc will also save you on cost but will eliminate shipping cost.

 

X3 on everything stated below. I would add

Break everything down to small projects you can complete. Do not try to do everything at once it can be overwhelming and can defeat your progress and can even make people give up on a project.

When you get upset or make a mistake take a break. Walk away for awhile and come back to the problem with a fresh view

 

Nice lists! Wish I would have seen some of them before I did my car.

 

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, When will you ever have time to go back and do it correctly.

Olds Club advisors are gurus

 

Thats a good one!

 

Thought of a few more

21) It's the little pieces (bushings, trunnions, rods, boots, etc) that add up to big money on a 4 speed changeover.

22) Before automatically sanding & refinishing every piece you touch, try cleaning it - gently - first. You'd be surprised sometimes how good it will look after a scrubbing with Simple Green and a toothbrush.

23) Clean and service your window regulators, guides, rollers and stops - they will need it and you'll be amazed how much easier your windows roll up and down.

24) Not all repro parts are garbage - they range in quality from crappy (front fender peak moldings) to excellent (70-72 convertible pinchweld moldings)

25) The most overpriced products so far (considering what they are): 3 way tie between ILT's firewall stamps (26.00 each), MT valve cover to battery cable plastic straps (16.00 each) and Fusick's door pull escutcheons (16.00 each)

 

Do things in order; mechanical, fuel, electrical, body and paint, in that order!
One can effect the other greatly, and if you get one done - it's out of the way!

 

Have ONE project at a time! Otherwise the time and resources get too spread out and the end seems to never come... for either project.

 

The last two responses are very on point.Even within your one project, finish the front end rebuild before moving onto the next task. You won't get that overwhelmed feeling, and save space in your work area.
It really helps me every few weeks to clean up and organize the work area, and go through my inventory of parts. Sometimes, I stumble upon something that I forgot I had a spare of which saves me ordering another one.

 

I'm in the process of doing a frame off, 68 442 convert. My car is a Canadian car, the winter road salt really loved it. Lucky I had it media blasted cause if it was acid dipped it would have been returned in an envelope.

 

An Assembly Manual is a must.

 

Remember when it's done you gotta put it some place, a new garage will cost more than your car.

 

I'll add to the great comments about Brian Trick.

In addition to using zip lock bags and marking the parts in them. Also try to box everything in labeled boxes as you go along by section - Interior, Engine Compartment, Engine Assembly, etc. While you are waiting for the car to come back from the paint shop.

Some of the newer detail items out are helpful in restorations. Mother's makes Back to Black which does a fantastic job on the inner wheel wells and A/C box. Aluminum wheel polish works to clean up the A/C lines

First I have heard anything about Brothers

 

I have learned to stop giving estimated completion dates. It only sets people (wife) up for disappointment. I want to be driving the car too...

 

The only completion or deadline date should be given to the body/paint shop! Over and over and over or it'll never get done!
AL

 

I agree! Brian and Scott are super guys! Helped alot.
AL

 

One more thought about convertible tops, especially if you plan on having an upholsterer install it:

Talk with the upholsterer first before you buy a top kit. There are some top kits that upholsterers simply will not work with and you don't want to spend money on something that will end up staying in a box in your shop forever. The upholsterer will also offer advice/recommendations on convertible top cables (most want new ones) and reconditioning your top bows before the new top goes on.

Randy C.

 

So what are your thoughts on a supplier for the vinyl top. Got to eventually put one on my 71 442.
AL

 

Amen X10 - my painter guy has had the car eight months. I've paid as requested (12K to date) and am still waiting.

On the other hand, it really has allowed me the time to go through every stinking part and have it ready for reassembly when I get the car back - it's just the frame and shell up there at his place.

Which leads me to one more truisim:

26) Fasteners will be at least 30% of your time - cleaning/repairing/chasing down the right ones

 

Then I'm sure you are experiencing this:
You've already got all this money paid, and as agreed, but still when you walk in his shop there they are working on someone else's car and bitching that the owner owes him money on the project. So you stand there in astonishment thinking I'm here (with check book) and your working on someone's car whom you have to bitch to get your money? They just amaze me! Maybe your not going through this but I am and have, Good grief! If it wasn't for these %$%$%we'd have our cars completed 6 months earlier. Got to be a better way. Take it to a collision shop
AL

 

Always sign a contract for bodywork and paint. Specify length of time for completion and a payment schedule. Never give more than the cost of materials up front.

If you're going to have a shop do your motor then do your homework. Make sure they have experience with Olds engines.

If you have a 40 year old car from the northeast it WILL require a frame-off restoration.

 

I agree with the 30%. That's why I order all missing or misplaced fastners from InLine. Little exspensive but there're sealed in a package, correct and labeled.Actually not a bad price when as yu said the time chasing.
AL

 

I'd have to defer to the upholsterer on that one. I have seen references to vinyl top sources at this site, though (perhaps do a "vinyl top" search). I do believe an upholsterer would also have a source, or sources, they would either prefer or would use.

Randy C.

 

Is there a recommended conv. top kit? That's coming up soon for me.

 

I would first talk with the person that is going to install your top. That person has preferences and dislikes. I got my top kit from Year One - they sold a brand at the time that my upholsterer liked really well. But what my uphosterer likes might be what another uphosterer despises!

I don't recall the brand name but it was a short name - 4-5 letters and that's it.

If you are doing it yourself, I would talk with others that have done it and gather their opinions before making the purchase.

Randy C.

 

Probably "Key."

- Eric

 

That would be Kee....

 

Absolutely correct. I was picturing the key in their logo, but I knew something wasn't quite right .

- Eric

 

Don't do it! Buy one already done.
Let the other guy pay to have it all done, then buy it from him for less than what he has in it.

 

How about taking a course in autobody at a local tech school. Then do the bodywork yourself. Many schools allow advanced students to bring in projects of their own.
This is exactly what I plan to do.

 

me too - when I'm 69

 

Where were you 5 years ago?

 

Let me repeat - before buying any part, make sure you have exhausted any possibility of refurbing the OE one you have. The amount of jacking you have to do to make anything fit worth a damn is considerable and you risk ruining it in the process.

 

Here are a few more thoughts:
1. start with a desert southwest car and avoid the rust repairs, and broken bolts that were rusted into place.
2. Steele Rubber has a wide assortment of grommets and plugs, etc.
3. Amazon has some parts even cheaper than Rock.
4. get a dozen Harbor Freight magnetic stainless steel trays when they are on sale.
5. Grease the threads of every bolt (unless Loctiting it).

 

How about a item or two about safety equipment??? I have been working with my grandson for over a year now and we wear safety goggles when grinding or sanding as well as a dust mask ( which my grandpa invented for 3M years ago!). Goggles come in very handy when under the car and the rust etc was falling.......

 

Make sure the main fuel lines are on the frame BEFORE marriage to the body.