Lady72nRob71

So at this point many have heard about my dirty engine woes that started on Saturday morning when I pulled the left valve cover for beadblasting...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post294407

It gets even better after pulling the other cover on Sunday!

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Hey Rob,

My passenger side valvetrain was WAY dirtier than the driver side, not sure why.. too bad i didnt take pictures, i just cleaned it up with a well oiled rag and pretended it never happened..

Jamesbo

Rob,

I don't think it looks that bad. But go ahead a clean it since you've gone that far.

What's the over/under on you doing a frame off? I need to start a pool

Lady72nRob71

But how far should I go???




My driver's side got the rare “Rocket-Red-Rocker” option!!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295320

Tony72Cutlass'S'

That's pretty cool! But why would only one side have the option? And what is that option, definitely something i've never heard of, both my sides were a kind of metallic/brown colour. Definitely stock i'm guessing?

-Tony

Lady72nRob71

I was just being my sarcstic self - trying to make humor over a non-elegant situation.

But why red??? It hurts my head.......

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Gotcha :P

Is this the first time you take your valve covers off? My engine was pretty badly abused too, the guy before me had everything wrong from the oil filter to a couple pounds of black RTV to seal the valve covers... First time i changed the oil reminded me of maple syrup season up here in Canada...

Lady72nRob71

Yep, first time to pull an Olds valve cover.
I pulled the one from my Ford 3 times over its life and even after 156k miles, it is still clean as a whistle!
Proper care really makes a difference.

Lady72nRob71

The new MBM repro master cylinder came in today.

It looks nice, but it appears to be unfinished cast iron, waiting to rust with the slightest exposure to Texas humidity.
I got to looking and the stuff I got called “brake gray” is more like brake silver… I painted the sway bar with it, so in comparison, it may not look right on the master.



MAYBE it will look more gray on that rough casting....

The next to last rockauto order arrived, with all the steering components – tie rod ends, sleeves, center link, and idler arm. Also there was a heater valve, set of valve guide seals, and one Chevy valve cover gasket.





A WHAT???
Okay so looks like they shipped the wrong part. A call to them confirmed it and a set of Olds gaskets are an the way.

I am starting a little collection of errored parts to cars I have never owned. I will add this gasket with the 1963 Dodge ignition switch that was sent in lieu of a carburetor kit... "One piece at a time..."

costpenn

Rob,

Following your story down here in Carrollton. Bought a 72 442 car in March that orginally it was just going to be a detail & drive type of thing, but one thing has lead to another ... Now going to have it painted by Frank Waggoner, have completely rebuit the 455 and am going to put a 4 speed in it (no console bucket seats), and am putting a OAI hood/W25 set up on it - in addition to new top, cylinders, pump motor, booster, master cyl, fuel pump,water pump, alternator, starter all wheel cyls and hold down parts front seat covers, carpeting, bumpers, handles, brake lines/hoses - and this is just the HALF of it

It was just supposed to be a detail job....

oregontopcat

Way to go Rob, going to look great. Enjoy your write up. My 70 continues to work its way along. Have a great day! Dave E

Lady72nRob71

Thanks... Its a long and tedious process, but progressing nonetheless. I would sure love to have a huge shop like yours, and nice weather to go with it!!

Lady72nRob71

Friday night was spent pulling the rocker arms and pushrods from the right cyl head and cleaning them.
Other bolts and misc parts were also pulled and cleaned.
The steering shaft U-joint was disassembled, old grease removed and was prepared for paint.
That all was about 4 hours.

The next Saturday afternoon was used in the stage 1 cleaning of the right side frame and engine. The inner plastic wheelwell was pulled and was impressed that it came out so easily with the ’86 parked so close.
This side was much dirtier than the left. It was more oily for sure. The AC box was dripping a light oil for some reason and the valve cover there must have been a real leaker in the past.
Here is the frame and engine.






The pictures make it look a lot better than it really was. There was an average of 1/8” of crud that had to come off of everything.

Here is the elusive A/C box just wanting to come out…


Looks like something died up in there.



The remains of the drain tube was just like a formed piece of tar. Nasty!
That is a light oil dripping out.

Lady72nRob71

So after 7 hours of scraping, wirebrushing, etc, I could see factory paint and later mare metal. Of course every bit of bare metal my skin touched instantly rusted from sweat.
Here is the frame again…


And the engine again…


Since my valve covers were at the sand blaster, I had to improvise some temporary covers to keep out any more dirt and dust...


"If your cars' valve covers are cardboard boxes, or your air cleaner housing is from "Tupperware" you might be a redneck..."



So at 7pm all 4 of my drill batteries had died, and I was wore out, so it was time to call it quits.
I had collected about 2 pounds of dirt, dust, and oil that dropped onto paper below and had emptied the vacuum about 3 times. What a mess it was.

Still have to go over it another time with a variety of wirebrushes, but it will go faster since the worst is gone now.

Before hitting the shower I had to use my “Goop” hand cleaner as an all-over body wash, followed by washing twice with regular soap. I was certainly a grease monkey after all that……..

MDchanic

Wow, Rob, you're a glutton for punishment. Your car will thank you. though.

If you really do have light oil dripping out of your evaporator drain, you need to pull the fiberglass evaporator cover (no better time than now, with everything wide open ), because the only thing in there with oil in it is the evaporator, and since a subtle oil spot is often the best way to locate an A/C leak, an actual oil drip...

- Eric

gearheads78

Cool now you have room for roller rockers

Jamesbo

What gaskets did you use with the new valve covers Rob?

Mike77

Yup! oil in the evap= leak. That's the easiest way we find leaks on big A/C equipment.
Mike

OLD SKL 69

I understand Rob. Did the might as well thing over the last 3 weeks before GM Carlisle.

Rad developed a leak, need to remove and repair.

Might as well take out the shroud, fan, belts, etc because the harmonic balancer seal and lower front seal is leaking.

Might as well replace the fuel pump while I'm in there.

Might as well replace the timing chain while I'm in there.

Might as well finish disassembling the front of the motor to paint it.

Might as well clean and repaint all the brackets, etc

Might as well pull out and repaint the front sway bar and replace the bushings.

Might as well clean all the crud off and repaint the front crossmember

My wife says, "I thought you were going to have this done in a day???"

Could have done more, but then I wouldn't have it ready in time.

Looks like you're doing a great job, keep the posts coming.

Lady72nRob71

Duck brand packaging tape.

So assuming the evap has a leak, can these be repaired, tested, and reconditioned by a competent shop so where they will be better than the new replacements? I know of two classic car AC places that claims to refurb these. Not sure if i trust the fit and quality of the possible Chinesium repros.

And to say you left that dirty ol' suspension in there?? Shame on you...

pcard

Hood and fender off makes getting to the A/C even easier - isn't that the start of a frame-o... no not not allowed to say those words.
I get the feeling it is not safe to leave you alone with anything that can be taken apart.

Lady72nRob71

That was my mom's belief for a LONG time. Image her surprise when she came home one day and found my tricycle all in pieces in the kitchen sink!
Amazingly I did get it back together (after washing it all of course). Mom had to help me pry the tire back on the wheel though.

Nope, fenders and hood stay on!
This tiny garage of mine is the only reason this is not a frame off. Maybe later............

OLD SKL 69

Yeah, there not painted yet but at least they don't have grease on them anymore!

Lady72nRob71

Sunday I decided to take it easy, as my arms and hands were sore from yesterday..
I pulled the AC blower motor, and I am guessing that it is not the original… Can anyone tell?? Anyone have a picture of an original motor??



Squirrel cage is very rusty. Are there any improved high-velocity fans out there for these cars? I was never happy with the lack of air movement even on high…

Most of the AC box parts and hardware was removed and sorted. Resistor connector was burned and deteriorated. Seeking a replacement for this thing…


Lots of bolts were degreased and washed and sorted.

Brake calipers were wirebrushed, washed with simple green, and dried (but not fast enough to not rust…)
I found some baby blue inspection marks under the grunge, too!


Bushings and rubber grommets were removed as well.



New master cylinder was washed up last and prepared for paint. I like the cast look, but as soon as that shipping oil comes off, it will just turn into a rusty hulk…
Cumulative time was about 3.5 hours…

MDchanic

That fan motor looks just like the one that was in my Delta, and I assumed it was a replacement as well, because it didn't say "GM" or "Delco" anywhere on it.

There's one for sale here.

As for the squirrel cage, they all rust because none of them were painted.
The newer motors come with plastic fans, though.

You should use some motorcycle chain lube (grease dissolved in solvent, in a spray can), or similar, to grease up the bearings while you have that out.

Don't remove the little metal clips on the fan - they're balance weights.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

Eric, looks like the SL1587 motor was a replacement. The back side of my fan cage was covered in black carbon (from the old motor's brushes) and the cooling air tube was full of red dust and crap. The new motor was very clean, inside and out. No carbon residue on the front, either. Looks like it was replaced before the car was repainted, as there is some overspray on it. It appears to have little use and it cleaned up well, so I will keep it. Not sure what to do with the cage though. It has been counter-counterweighted with dirt and rust...

MDchanic

I took the fan off mine to lube the bearings, then put it back on.

It's not worth the trouble to bead blast it - it's not that rusty, and you'll never see it again.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

A car restoration is the sum of it’s odd jobs, I guess….

I masked off the calipers and master cylinder in preparation for painting. This took half an hour, spraying with Eastwood “Brake Gray” took only 10 minutes…
The brake gray paint really looked like the bare master cylinder. Great color – hope it lasts!


I touched up the lower control arms with black chassis paint after the battles with the ball joint press. That went very well. Lower ball joint boots and grease fittings were later added.

After that, I drained a gallon of coolant and removed the old heater hoses. Electrical lines for the A/C system were disconnected and set aside. A variety of clamps, holders and clips were removed and washed.
A hose shopping list was created as all will be replaced.

Blower wheel was cleaned up also. After the carbon and dirt was washed from the rear, I saw some silver, so I bet it had a very thin layer of plating or something on it.


Put a rusted part back on my car?
Do you not wash your back just because you will not see it?

This thing is super rusty – it will get an acid dip, wash, and painted with Eastwood silver cad when it comes in.


Recon the plastic repro wheel will move more air? If not I will keep what I have.

I just went to check the pressure in the AC system and found out that it is empty now. I must have disturbed things too much I guess. This is a good thing meaning I can start pulling all that soon. Not sure what to cap the ends with yet…

For another 3.5 hours, I do not feel like I got much done. But it has been HOT the last several weeks, and 105 the last several days!

Jamesbo

Rob, Great thread and I truely appreciate the time you spend uploading pics and your naratives. Thanks

kjr442

x2

442_Mustang

Mine had the plastic squirrel cage fan setup. I assume from factory as I bought the car in 84. Mine will blow less air now because the friggin mice thoughtfully chewed up about 3 blades so I broke off 3 from the opposite side to try to keep it balanced.

RAMBOW

I'm sure you've checked it, but since you mentioned the fan not blowing enough...

Make sure the inline AC fuse that is in the engine bay is not blown.
If it is, the blower will work, but only on the lower speeds. It needs the fuse to kick in the high speed.

I had this problem on a car i had a while back, never could figure it out- finnaly realized one day that deep in the bundle of electrical taped wires was that inline fuse holder wiht a blown fuse.

I've seen a couple other AC cars since then that also had that extra fuse in the engine bay (and both were blown as well)

hope this helps!

Progress looks good!

Lady72nRob71

The system works as designed. It just does not blow as much as say as the fan in my 86. I was just hoping a different motor and fan from a different year or model would improve CFM output. The blower from my 86 is an inch too long, so that is not an option. The C3 corvette guys use a C4 blower as an upgrade. I saw that the Chevelle guys did not have a sub either, so I was just hoping for something that is not widely known yet.
I will just keep it all stock then.

MDchanic

This same motor is spec'd for a huge variety of GM cars with A/C, Rob, so I don't think there's a substitute.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

Wednesday was a couple more hours progress…
Painted brake calipers were unmasked and new rubber grommets and bushings were installed.


The latter parts were well greased with brake parts grease. The calipers were then boxed up and stored with the other clean, ready parts in the front living room.




The AC system was disassembled and that big nasty evaporator box was finally pulled!



So what’s behind the doors??? I knocked but there was no answer. (A good thing I hope...)

Operation of these will be checked later..

Here is the evap box and compressor unit, ready for disassembly.


When I cracked it open, part of a bush fell out.

Lady72nRob71

Evaporator was pretty cruddy. Very oily, too – no wonder airflow was rather poor!


Oily residue was heaviest evident here…


Here is the bottom of the leaky evaporator…


This was a turn-off – notice the internal corrosion of these fittings!


Disassembly is almost done!

citcapp

Love those valve covers Rob. Are you going to market them on CO. Several people will want sets.

Looks like you had small animals living behind evaporator.

What you're 20 minutes from having the engine pulled, Just do it and make it easy on yourself.

MDchanic

Those leaves are in EVERY evaporator.

They blow in through the plenum and settle there over the years.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

I have been getting lots of interest in those - I need to get out the "Marks-A-Lot" and draw in "OLDSMOBILE" on each one.
Call now and I will include the premium "Duck" brand gasket sets at no extra charge!
Only 19.99 plus shipping and handling.

In all seriousness, I wish I could. A buddy of mine even offered me his cherry picker and engine stand.
Problem is SPACE. My workbench is 6" from the front of the car. Back of the car is 3/4" from the roll-up door. My 86 is 12" off one side and I have 3 feet on the other side. Without front wheels on the car, its, well, immobile. Can't pull engine and tranny from the side. Even if I could pull them, I would have no good place to work on it or store it. Of course if I had a truck, I could maybe load it right in the bed and haul the nasty hulk right to the rebuilder.

Even if all that was in my favor, I am not sure I could trust myself to do it all right and not pop my back again in the process.

Now I need a POA valve - a factory type that looks just like my original...


Needs to have the hex adjustment screw for pressure setting.

costpenn

Rob - let me know if you need any engine parts - I own a company in Carrollton www.enginetech.com and am always willing to help out a fellow rocketeer...

Figure out a way of doing that engine now - you wont be sorry!