i wanted to post some pics of my build.
the first ones are of the car when i got it

 

Looks like you have a little work ahead of you, was it Bamboo Yellow originally? Keep us posted.

 

i got the car back in may (yes it took me this long to post it).
currently its all apart

im trying to figure out what to do about stripping the paint currently.
any suggestions

ive also had the frame sandblasted and primed it and will be painting tommarrow hopefully
the car was the equivalent of Frankenstein when i got it, a 71 455, a th350, and a 69 gto rear axle. so far ive gotten an original 70 442 engine. now i need to get rid of the 71 to get the rear axle.
originally the car was burgundy poly mist code 78 and pearl white interior
this is my first restoration so im not really seeing any light at the end of the tunnel right now
so any tips would be helpful im also planning to convert to a 4 speed

 

Don't forget you need a crank with the proper rear clearance for the 4 speed. You'll need a different swing set for the pedals too. After that the parts are easy to come by. Look for a complete setup on Evilbay. That's what I did.

 

my new engine has the crank drilled for the pilot bearing and the block has the mount for the Z-Bar. ive found a complete 4 speed setup

 

Burgundy mist with a white interior is a great color combo!

 

Do you have air tools?

 

i have a decent sized compressor an impact and a spray gun.

 

You can easily and quickly strip the car with an air grinder. Don't dig in at all, just skim the top. After that hit the entire car with a da and 80 grit. Then you will be ready. Works well for me. My two cents.

 

would something like this work?
http://www.eastwood.com/6in-daq-rand...-with-pad.html

someone also suggested to me to use an electric buffer at a low rpm

 

A da like in your link will work. It will take a long time to get it done. On the flip side it will e extremely difficult to damage the metal with a da. (da is dual action sander) just to clarify.

 

frame is half way done being painted and its looking better than expected
it should be done tomorrow or the day after

what kind of air grinder do you use.

 

Oh yeah i left out one major detail about this project.
im doing this at age 17 with a concrete pad on the side of the house and a one car garage. i have one yeah in for diesel mechanics at boces and have worked on many other cars but alot of this is new to me. so i will probably ask some stupid questions
and yes everyone thinks im crazy for attempting this and i know im crazy

 

I currently use Viking Air tools. I would get an air grinder from Harbor Freight. If you wear it out, you know you will need to buy quality.

 

the frame is done

 

Crazy and Lazy do not go together. So you are Crazy and not Lazy. And you will be ridding past the Lazies in a year, or so in your Crazy ride.
It might be a little late by the photos, but bag and label (where it came from) every bolt. And put them all in the same box/location.
You can do it.

 

thanks i need all the motivation i can get i finally started stripping the body the other day

 

heres the pic of the frame

 

Looking good!!!

Did you find any "stampings" on the frame toward the back?

 

really cool

 

yes i forgot which side they were on though, do you want me to get the numbers for you?

 

No, I am just glad you found them.

I would take some photos of the frame stampings to place in your restoration photo album

 

heres some more progress almost all the paint is off. the doors are done and the fenders are done. trunk lid is done and it was hiding a lot along with the lower windshield. any suggestions as to how to fix this? some people have said something about cutting a piece of metal to fit. any one done this and have pics of it? i am also looking for suggestions as to what to coat under the car with. i used a custom mix of rustolem on the frame and was going to use satin black under the car, on the firewall, and up onto the cowl and dash. also any one know how to replicate the soundproofing in the rear wheel wells.
the drivers side quarter was also hiding alot, they did a good bondo job as all this damage was pretty much undetectable, just look at the picture when the car was together it was flush to feel and everything. but moisture seeped in from behind and trouble. i thought i was going to have to relplace the whole quarter but some have suggested a large patch might do or a skin. i will post pictures of it when i finish stripping the paint off it (its the last part). and the back window in that picture
Also on a side i note school started and the kids still cant stop laughing at me (they all have new mustang and civics )
ill add more as it progresses
thanks everybody
and the back window in that picture is out

 

Mustangs and Civics. They will blend in with all the other turds. You, my man, will stand out and be damn proud of what you have done. Stick to it!

 

Agreed, cant wait to show em what a posi will do

 

Anyone can go out and "buy" a civic or mustang! What you are doing my friend is what real "men" are made of....You are doing a great job so far! Keep it up...Also had the same issue with my dash on my '72! I replaced the whole top of the dash and cowl with a rust-free used section...much easier than patching! Check with John(2blu442) and see if he has a parts car that can donate! By the way, where are you located?

 

im near Albany NY. i checked with john all his cowls on his parts cars are rotted. i found out today that my drivers rocker is no good.

 

also there are lots of dings in the firewall should they be there?

 

Are the clutch parts like the pedals the same in a chevelle? or are they different?

 

Good luck with it. I live right by Albany also (Delmar) and am restoring a 70 Cutlass SX Conv. I have made most of the standard restoration mistakes as well as many of us on this site, so let us know if you need any advice.

 

Yes, the dings should be little dimples for various options so the assembly line worker knew where to drill the mounting holes. Some of the dings you see may also be spot welds.

Get yourself an assembly manual and a specific 70 Olds Service manual for this car (assembly manual is $25 repro and service manual can also be had repro ($60+)but you see them on Ebay cheaper many times used).

 

I think those are markers for different applications. What? I do not know, but mine looked factory.
How is the project going? Did you know they make a part for the front windshield cowl? I made mine out of strips of metal and riveted them in place filled and sanded smooth. If I had known they re-pop them I would have done it that way. Email me if you want photos.

 

For painting the chassis (under neath the car) i have used a product called POR15, which is a super rock hard rust preventative paint. Just google POR15 and have a look at their WEB site. DIdn't you say in an earlier post that you had the car sand blasted? WHich parts? If i were you i would have had the whole car done inside and out.It is definately the best and fastest way to get all the rust out. But i guess finances do come into the question.Here are some pics for you .MVC-003S.JPG

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MVC-010S.JPG

 

Some more pics.MVC-011S.JPG

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MVC-010S.JPG

 

did you use a patch panel or did you make a piece out of sheet metal and did you just drill the spot welds to get it off?
i didnt have the whole car sandblasted but i just got a small sandblaster to hit some of the areas. i found out the other day that the lower part of the back window is rotted a fair amount, i will try to get some pics of it. progress is S L O W for the moment. as i keep taking the paint off more and more has to be repaired. i don't know what to do about the underside of the roof? it has surface rust and the insulation runs under the frames that hold the bows for the headliner and up under the sections around the sides. im not sure how to explain the area.

 

I would POR15 the areas of interest, and put the headliner back in. I would not remove the insulation glued to the roof.
Ralsy, Your dash repair looks great.

 

I own a 96 Bravada and installed a Oldsmobile 4WD Actuator Bravada to enable the 4 wheel drive ala sportsmode. The said part was OEM on my build thread.

 

The section was cut and drilled out and then repaired with made up pieces and welded back on. As long as the under roof area is only surface rust then use the POR 15 products ( rust converter, rust proof paint ) You can also get a rust converter primer product that you can spray on and just leave, with out overpainting, in those hard to get to areas where you cant get a paint brush into. Some parts stores sell made to order cans of spray paint. If you ask nice they might put some rust converter in a spray can. What did Forrest gump say about that box of chocolates. Well the same can be said when restoring a car. You never know whats hiding under that paint until you start stripping it off. Good luck with your build. If there is one piece of advice i can give, try not to cut to many corners as they will eventually catch up with you. Happy times ahead.

 

There WILL be a point that you reach when you will be able to say, "I CAN FINISH THIS PROJECT, AND I CAN SEE THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL"! Hang in there, and keep plugging away, and you will get there! Good Luck!

 

i have a nice rust free cowl section if you need it for the upper dash