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Tubbed out 1972 cutlass supreme project **Updated Aug 8 2021**
Its been a while, but here are some updates on my project car but first a recap. Cars been sitting for 20 + years, ever since my fathernlaw has been sick. Ive posted in the newbie section a while back with more details abkut the car.Im in the process of trying to finish his dream build. Im not a mechanic but Im giving it my all.
The car is a tubbed out 1972 oldsmobile cutlass supreme
with a 350 rocket engine, bored 30 over with flat top pistons. The engine code matches the vin number.
-750 Holley, double pumper, 4BBL carburator
- 350 turbo hydromatic automatic transmision with manual shift
-9" ford rear end with 11"drums
-35 stall, 10" TCI torque converter
-aluminum intake
-4 core rad
-line lock
-4" mufflers
-Black jack headers
-dual exhaust
-swaped out the 1972 rear bumper for the 1970 rear bumper due to the tail light orientation
Here are the updates and pictures.
*High polished aluminum firewall (nothing is or wont be mounted to it) (put on before I started the project)
*Roll cage professionaly done( before I started the project)
*Radiator has been professionaly flushed due to corrosion.
*I fabricated and installed rad fan mounts to get rid of the through strap mounts
*Dissassembled, cleaned, repaired and re-assembled the holley 750 carburator with a new rebuild kit(seals, jets ect.)
*Installed a new(repaired to sell) master cylinder as the old one wasnt functioning properly even after cleaning out all the sludge from sitting
*Drained and refilled all fluids, oil and filter, transmission fluid, rear end fluid, break fluid and rad fluid
*new break cylinders in the rear, x2
*engine is at top dead center
*I installed a new msd system (msd pro billet distributor 8566 , msd HVC blaster coil 8252 and msd 6 plus ignition controller 6520)
*new spark plug wires cut, routed, fabricated and installed to new distributor and spark plugs with wire looms.
*oil pump has been turned until oil was commig out of rockers
*valve covers , cleaned, polished, new seals
*breaks have been all bled from black to clear fluids and now I have a good peddle
*starter installed and wired
*trany pan was dropped and now has a new filter and seal
*engine was lubed up while valve covers were off(was originaly lubed when it came from the shop 20years ago)
*hand cranked the engine (no binding or resistance)
*engine ready for first time firing(has never been fired since repaired and bored) took all steps to prep it
*new fuel filter installed (the whole canister assembly)
*new racing 3 point harness seat belts
*I made a custom mount for the msd 6 plus controller box inside the car
*I made a custom mounting plate for the voltage regulator and horn relay junction inside the car ,on the passanger side of the firewall.
I CANT seem to remember anymore.
Im currently working on finishing the wiring, wiring switches, finish wiring msd controller, wire the tach and shift light, fuel hoses to the carburator ,install battery, figure out why the blaster coil is buzzing while the ignition key is turned off, figure out where to put the diode for engine run-on for my msd controller, finish assembling the body, get a ram air hood(seems like that will never happen due to covid, the boarder and availability), install the tires, fire the engine for the first time, tweek the engine and msd system, check for leaks and repair and re fill fluids as needed and then hopefully get my fathernlaw in the car for a burn out or 2.
(I may have missed a few things, but you get the idea)
**Some pictures are before the rebuilding process and some are current
If anyone wants to see other pic, I can show you if I have them.
Thanks for looking.
Last edited by Elite Carpentry; Aug 8, 2021 at 04:13 PM.
Reason: Updated more info and puctures to my build
Thanks guys. A work in progress for sure.
Heres a shot from the rear with the big ol slicks. Cant exactly remember how much bigger but they are bigger then a dragsters.
was the car ever run? i see the one pic doing a burn out but i mean driven or raced ?
FYI if you didnt know those rubber plugs you have on the back of the intake dont last long at all. I picked up a pipe thread plug for mine no worries w that...
was the car ever run? i see the one pic doing a burn out but i mean driven or raced ?
FYI if you didnt know those rubber plugs you have on the back of the intake dont last long at all. I picked up a pipe thread plug for mine no worries w that...
RetroRanger the car did run before it was left the way it was when I started, on jacks, no tires and dismanteled. My fathernlaw was a mechanic and did most of his own stuff. I believe it was When he had someone adjust the tranny, (or something along those lines) the guy did it to much I guess and lt blew the engine. So he had the motor sent away and fixed and he put it back in and thats as far as he got.
So now My mission and end goal is to get him in his car, the way he wanted it before he passes. So ive been learning through books, online, him and others to get it done and I must say Im realy enjoying myself.
Thanks for the tip. All be def looking into it. Where can I get some?
Hello everyone again. Since my last update (Feb 2021) alot has changed to the car. Ive been busy with all sorts of things to get the car back on the road. I can officialy say that I did drive it around the block a couple times since it last drove 20 years ago. Ive went through an emotional roller coaster from being anxious, to scared, to happy and relieved to everything in between. It was def terrifying to drive off for the first time not knowing aything about how the car drives but mostly , what if I brake it and all that hard work is out the window. But I did it. So now without futher a do, here is a list of things Ive accomplished along with picture and fingers crossed, videos.
I last left off with me making a custom mount for the msd controller inside the car. The custom brackets have not stoped there.
* I made newerous cuatom mounts for the coil. I tried seveal positions and it was either to far away and didnt habe long ebough coil wire or to close that when adjusting the distributor it would touch. But we finaly settled on a waterfall mount and used the high polish rivets as one anchore point and the old mount holes as the other
* I finaly managed to trace all the wires for the horns, took them appart, cleaned them of rust, reassembled and painted, test with a car battery and reinstalled. They now work off a toggle switch.
*After days of work and fustration, I was able get all the wiring hooked up and cleaned up in wire moldings. That was one of the hardest parts of this whole project.
*It took 2 different tries but I was able to finaly get the horn realay to work. I took it appart and the contacts were way to far appart and the grounding points were rusty and full.of paint. Works like it should
*We figured the alternator had a problem , so we started with the voltage regulator to change out first but that seemed to make no difference. After some testing and trouble shooting, the old regulator was good all along and the system did infact work.
*I had to drill out the trunk lock cylinder as the trunck wouldnt open no matter how much I tried. (Its tubbed-out for those of you who might be thinkinh, why didnt he go through the back seat). We bought a new one and after fiddling with bending the arm to get it to work properly, she now opens great.
*Unfortunately for those who likes the fuel line set up, I had to change out the carb fittings as they would not stop leaking. The after market AN fittimgs only have like 4 threads and never realy got a chance to seal in the carb so we resorted back to the original fuel line set up where those fittings have lots of threads and sealed nicely. 1 leak down.
*The tach with shift light, oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge have been tied into the lighting circuit so when driving at night they light up.
*New toggle switch mount was made and new switches have been installed. The other colorful ones were old and not working properly so I got covered red led light up toggle switches to match the interior. Those all have been wired up along with the line lock light up button.
*Replaced the old fuel pressure gauge with a new one as the old one had no "glycol"/ fluid left in it and the arm was pretty rusty.
*Re did the fuel line adapters/joints to the fuel regulator as that had a small fuel leak.
*Tried starting the car several times, setting timming, setting distributor, setting tdc and did some testing but was finaly able to get it running for more then 2 seconds. 1st time was a fail, got flamminhmg back fire out of carb and only ran for a quick second.
*Got the distributor timming and carb tuned up. May need to adjust after driving it and installing a carb filter.
*Sanded all grounding points with a dremmel (battery to frame, engine to frame and frame to rad support(for lack.of word)) and changed all the grounding straps to new ones.
*Had a small tranny leak. So I tightend up the tranny pan to torqued specs and now that is gone and not leaking, knock on wood.
*Installed the tires on the car. Fronts have Mickey Thompsons and the rears have Hoosiers. Boy oh boy was putting on those rear slicks a job and a half. Even tho they only have 20lbs of air in the tube, they were realy heavy and awkward.
*Fenders were installed and gaped. That was another job I thought id never get right. Getting the gaps right is a very tough job
*Hood hinges and new used fiberglass oai hood was installed. Again, gaps were a pain in the as$ but they will do. Since its an after market hood, its 3/8" smaller then the original at the front end and the fenders are fully depressed against the light housing and cant close them anymore.
*Hood pin striker plates and hood latch have been installed. Works Mint.
*Fender lights wired and hooked up
I may have forgot some details/pics but if they come to me all add more. This is where im at. I do have a few things to finish like mounting the front bumper after I clean it up, get ehaust pipes installed as they are currently open black jack headers, emergency brake cables I have to hunt down for this 9"ford rear end with 11"drums and make it all work with the original foot brake, install the new k&n xstream carb filter and k&n valve cover breathers and hopefully get a safety and insurance and be on my way. Im sure some other minor things will show up and may need to wire in the msd part for the line lock tach rev limiter.
Here are some updated pics. May not be in order as stated above but you guys are smart cookies and will figure it out.
Again, gaps were a pain in the as$ but they will do. Since its an after market hood, its 3/8" smaller then the original at the front end and the fenders are fully depressed against the light housing and cant
loosen the core support move it side to side to even the end gaps to match the side gaps at the rear