Tear Down
#81
"Ok maybe I just don't get it but I have to ask, how is that going to fit in the transmission tunnel under the seats? That looks way too big."
Surprisingly there is a lot of room there. If anything the floor area where the rear bolts on the GV case are may need a little tweaking with a hammer but nothing major. I admit it does look big sitting there on the floor.
Surprisingly there is a lot of room there. If anything the floor area where the rear bolts on the GV case are may need a little tweaking with a hammer but nothing major. I admit it does look big sitting there on the floor.
#82
Cut down the trans cross member to clear the sump on the Gear Vendors. Buddy welded in the first piece (half round) and I finished fabricating the covering pieces today. He'll weld it up Sunday and next week I'll test fit the unit to see what clearance I have and if I'll need more. Steady as she goes......
#83
Finished up the cross member today. Ground down the welds in some spots and smoothed it a bit. Shot it with a quick coat of paint to stop any rust for now. I'll probably have it powder coated later. Also removed the pressed in nipples on the water pump and tapped them for 3/8 NPT. Put the Gear Vendors away until that time. It's going slow. Next step is too remove the body from the frame. First I have to put a had railing up for Mom on the basement steps. Work is never done.
#84
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Looks really good. That's a substantially heavy weld in and should hold quite nicely. Even if you don't PC it, I think it looks great.
What gave you the idea to tap the outlets on the water pump? Personally I think that's brilliant and don't understand why it wasn't done that way in the first place. Hope you got all the shavings. What's your weapon of choice - Pipe dope or teflon tape? Other thing I'm curious about is how you're going to put that little flare on the end of the water pump tubes.
What gave you the idea to tap the outlets on the water pump? Personally I think that's brilliant and don't understand why it wasn't done that way in the first place. Hope you got all the shavings. What's your weapon of choice - Pipe dope or teflon tape? Other thing I'm curious about is how you're going to put that little flare on the end of the water pump tubes.
#85
The idea for the threaded holes was basically a way to get around those awful rubber caps should I ever have to use them again. Every one I've used has rotted but I've been lucky that only one actually let go. This way I can just use a screw in plug or nipple.
http://performancesst.com/home.php
Performance Stainless has some nice pieces. You can also pick up brass stuff at any hardware or plumbing supply house. I may even make the holes 1/2 NPT because of the wider selection. Just not sure I have enough to work with on the pump. I'll have to measure it. I think tape or paste would work equally well. I was taught to use tape by my father a hundred years ago so I'm comfortable with that. I don't think it matters between tape or a liquid but I'm open to listen to any advice.
http://performancesst.com/home.php
Performance Stainless has some nice pieces. You can also pick up brass stuff at any hardware or plumbing supply house. I may even make the holes 1/2 NPT because of the wider selection. Just not sure I have enough to work with on the pump. I'll have to measure it. I think tape or paste would work equally well. I was taught to use tape by my father a hundred years ago so I'm comfortable with that. I don't think it matters between tape or a liquid but I'm open to listen to any advice.
#87
my 70 cutlass s came from kentuckyand was zbarted the whole under body they drill little holes and stick long spraying shafts inside the lower door rocker panels. inner quarters whole front end upper and lower control arms and rear tourque arms and inside the doors then they put little plastic plugs were ever they drilled a hole was quite a bitch to clean up when I rebuilt the front and rear end but did its job hardly any rust on the car. then the car went to ohio and sat in a steel building with a concrete floor for the next ten yrs. when I took off the door panels. some places had that puddy covering large holes buy the upper windows.car is in newburgh ny now 90 miles from nyc
#88
Wow man really sounds like you're doing great with it. We are doing the same thing with our 66 442 holiday coupe. Having most of the same issues with the exception your car is in way better shape. We are however changing the interior from black to red. Make it a red on red car. Good luck with the build. We will be monitoring your progress and posting our build here soon. New to the site so still getting acclimated.
#89
Beautiful car Johnnyjaws. NTMD8TR I hope my build can help you.
Today I removed the ten body bolts that hold the frame to the body. Came out easy so I am lucky considering it's a 45+ year old car. Also cut the brake line to the master cylinder. Next step is to separate the body and frame. I plan to put the body up on jack stands sitting on two 4x6's with the jack stands at the highest height. I think I'll be able to roll the chassis right out from under it that way. Once the frame is out I can start on that over the winter along with the underside of the body.
Allan R I mocked up the overdrive to the cross member to see where there was interference with the body. Looks like I will have to take a three pound hammer to some spots as the tunnel contacts two bolt bosses on the overdrive unit.
Some may think I've lost my mind here but I actually enjoy the 'car crafting' part of this hobby. Although I adore the pristine off the show room floor look I wanted my build to go beyond that. Hey that's just me. Any of these pitfalls is just a slight blip on the radar for me. Think it through, work it and be proud of your accomplishments. I won't be able to say I did the whole thing by myself but I can be happy that my own hands were involved for most of it. My inspiration for this project comes from Josiah Coy. If you look at the link you'll see what I mean if you've been following my build thread.
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicl.../photo_01.html
Today I removed the ten body bolts that hold the frame to the body. Came out easy so I am lucky considering it's a 45+ year old car. Also cut the brake line to the master cylinder. Next step is to separate the body and frame. I plan to put the body up on jack stands sitting on two 4x6's with the jack stands at the highest height. I think I'll be able to roll the chassis right out from under it that way. Once the frame is out I can start on that over the winter along with the underside of the body.
Allan R I mocked up the overdrive to the cross member to see where there was interference with the body. Looks like I will have to take a three pound hammer to some spots as the tunnel contacts two bolt bosses on the overdrive unit.
Some may think I've lost my mind here but I actually enjoy the 'car crafting' part of this hobby. Although I adore the pristine off the show room floor look I wanted my build to go beyond that. Hey that's just me. Any of these pitfalls is just a slight blip on the radar for me. Think it through, work it and be proud of your accomplishments. I won't be able to say I did the whole thing by myself but I can be happy that my own hands were involved for most of it. My inspiration for this project comes from Josiah Coy. If you look at the link you'll see what I mean if you've been following my build thread.
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicl.../photo_01.html
#90
Absolutely... doing a great job man just keep it up. We just received 2 parts cars for our project so I'm into tearing down both cars for parts and pieces. Definitely understand the hands on enjoyment part of it. I personally like the tearing down part and the metal work. Beyond that I'm a little Ugh, especially wiring. Sounds like you got it going though. Looking good!!!
#91
Removed the doors and made up some plates to bolt to the door hinges. These will be used to make a brace that spans the door gap. I'll just cut that bar in half and weld it to the pinch weld on the upper part of the door in the rear and then weld the flat part of the angle iron together about mid span. I think that will be good.
If you have some better ideas let me know. I'm not keen on using the door striker bolt as the back side isn't real beefy. I was toying with the idea of removing the striker bolts and welding a bolt to the end of the angle iron. I also think mounting it higher would spread the load better then the lower point.
If you have some better ideas let me know. I'm not keen on using the door striker bolt as the back side isn't real beefy. I was toying with the idea of removing the striker bolts and welding a bolt to the end of the angle iron. I also think mounting it higher would spread the load better then the lower point.
#92
With a little help from the internet I worked out how I'm going to make the braces for the doors when I pull the body off the frame. I love how ideas are only a click away.
I decided to use the striker bolts but through a plate I fabricated which should give plenty of support and an additional brace to the top.
I decided to use the striker bolts but through a plate I fabricated which should give plenty of support and an additional brace to the top.
#93
Got them welded in tonight. Started out bad when the plug for the welder didn't match the welder. Quick trip to Hone Depot and $10 later we are gtg. Body lifting time is coming quick!
#94
Hey Trip glad to see your making progress and those braces are excellent!! I started on my frame I measured it and found it was bent a little so I am working the entire frame over. Good thing the winters are almost none existent in Florida so I can keep progress going but its slow. I think we will both be finished at about the same time with luck!! Keep the info coming and I am starting this weekend on my thread. Finally!!!!
#95
Oh baby baby. Look what arrived today. The dash pad and glove box from Just Dashes. Only took 13 weeks but they are stunning. They even painted the back of the glove box for me. I think I'll redo do it in gloss though. I included a before pic for comparison. Before I'm asked it cost $900 plus shipping. Yes expensive but it is real nice looking in person.
#96
Trip they look great, its really nice to have a company that is able to restore parts for our cars that are that good! Keep up the good work and it will be done before you know it! I am crossing my fingers on my frame!! I have 2 grandbabies coming in just a few weeks so It has taken up alot of my OLDS time but family first.
#98
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I wish I had that kind of money for my project. I can't imagine what this is going to run you by the time it's done. Don't take that the wrong way - I'm actually really impressed with your goal, commitment and budget. I don't suppose the new garage was part of the cost on this?
#99
I suppose the truth of the matter is the garage is part of this because without the garage none of this would be happening. I was basically forced into an early retirement by a freak accident so much of this project is from a settlement due to that accident. I have nothing but time on my hands now and rebuilding the Cutlass was always part of the greater plan.
If you scroll back a page or two you'll know why I went with Just Dashes. The other pad I purchased and returned was just of poor quality overall. I've always had a vision of what I wanted so I just plug away at it as I go. I'm also getting a lot of help from various sources which keeps the price down on many things such as body work, paint, welding, electric, carpentry, etc. I've been somewhat lucky in my life with good friends and family. I won't be around forever so I'm going to have fun while it lasts. Life is what you make it and goes by too fast.
I don't take it the wrong way Allan, I know what you mean.
If you scroll back a page or two you'll know why I went with Just Dashes. The other pad I purchased and returned was just of poor quality overall. I've always had a vision of what I wanted so I just plug away at it as I go. I'm also getting a lot of help from various sources which keeps the price down on many things such as body work, paint, welding, electric, carpentry, etc. I've been somewhat lucky in my life with good friends and family. I won't be around forever so I'm going to have fun while it lasts. Life is what you make it and goes by too fast.
I don't take it the wrong way Allan, I know what you mean.
Last edited by TripDeuces; January 18th, 2015 at 10:06 AM.
#100
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I'm glad your experience with Just Dashes worked out. My friend Brian restored a 69 442 vert and it was basically a concourse resto frame off. He needed A pillar covers and got some from Just Dashes. I remember him telling me the stuff he got was just plain bad, holes in the wrong places, and not even close to OEM standards. He ended up having to use the OEM ones that were on the car. I guess there's good and bad luck involved in lots of aspects of this hobby.
Yes, I remember you talking about Just dashes and the repro part that was not acceptable. Somewhere in the past I also remember you speaking about the accident and 'some spare time to kill'. I understand the spare time issue as I'm retired. And like you say, it's what you make it. I need to tell my aging body to get with the program though.
Yes, I remember you talking about Just dashes and the repro part that was not acceptable. Somewhere in the past I also remember you speaking about the accident and 'some spare time to kill'. I understand the spare time issue as I'm retired. And like you say, it's what you make it. I need to tell my aging body to get with the program though.
#101
For the record, Just Dashes insisted on the original dash left intact even in it's bad state. I know it's my dash because there was one stud loose and it's still loose, lol. They said they would fix it but I guess not. I'm not complaining, their job was stunning but you're going to pay for it. I'm only doing this once so it will be correct or at least my way from the get go. I'll have no one to blame but me in the end.
Hang on, it's going to be a ride!
Next up is Ron Roth and his work on my dash. Can't wait to see what he's done. I know that will be beautiful also.
On a side note I also sent my center carb out (That pos Demon from Barry Grant). I found the butterfly valves were loose on the throttle shaft so instead of tearing into it myself I sent it out to CFM for an inspection and rebuild. I'm very comfortable with rebuilding carbs myself but CFM was familiar with the outer carbs and did such a great job on them I sent him the center one also.
Soon the body will be lifted from the frame and the fun will begin. I'm looking forward to the frame work. Body work, not so much. Honestly I'm actually good at it but it's low on the fun scale for me.
Hang on, it's going to be a ride!
Next up is Ron Roth and his work on my dash. Can't wait to see what he's done. I know that will be beautiful also.
On a side note I also sent my center carb out (That pos Demon from Barry Grant). I found the butterfly valves were loose on the throttle shaft so instead of tearing into it myself I sent it out to CFM for an inspection and rebuild. I'm very comfortable with rebuilding carbs myself but CFM was familiar with the outer carbs and did such a great job on them I sent him the center one also.
Soon the body will be lifted from the frame and the fun will begin. I'm looking forward to the frame work. Body work, not so much. Honestly I'm actually good at it but it's low on the fun scale for me.
Last edited by TripDeuces; April 15th, 2016 at 08:51 AM.
#102
Pulled the plug on a Dana S60 rear end from Strange. Aluminum cover, powder coated, 3.54 gears and a S Trac differential (their version of a True Trac). Funny thing was someone with a 65 Cutlass in my same zip code ordered a similar rear end. I'll have to keep my eye out for that car. I'll order Baer brakes for it to match the fronts later on.
I also cleaned up the oil pick up off my original 330ci that I plan to swap over to the 496. Also cleaned up an original 66 VC breather I picked up from Octania. I'll be modifying the Offy VC to make it all fit. Stay tuned
I also cleaned up the oil pick up off my original 330ci that I plan to swap over to the 496. Also cleaned up an original 66 VC breather I picked up from Octania. I'll be modifying the Offy VC to make it all fit. Stay tuned
#103
Sounds like you're moving along... Yes the frame work is way more fun than the body stuff. You will enjoy it. Let me know if you need anything or tips. We are about done and that knowledge is still fresh. We should be setting the motor in ours Saturday morning.
#105
Look what I scored today. Got a set of boat jacks from a friend with two more coming soon. That will get the body up high enough for my big behind to get underneath comfortably. I'll use these tall ones for the rear wheel arch supports and the smaller ones for under the firewall.
#107
Those have held a 4000 pound boat. I think I'm good.
They are only going to hold the body up, not frame and body.
They are only going to hold the body up, not frame and body.
Last edited by TripDeuces; January 5th, 2015 at 04:52 PM.
#108
I use them in my job all the time.
This from the MFR, Brownell:
How much weight do your boat stands hold?
Boat stands are designed as a balancing device. The weight of the boat rests on its keel and is supported by keel stands, keel benches or blocking. However, our stands have been independently tested and still function even under a 30,000lb. / 13,600kg load.
Thats per stand!
I'm under boats up to 80,000b all the time, never worry about it, although I do check the screws if the boat has been sitting for a while
Great score, George!
This from the MFR, Brownell:
How much weight do your boat stands hold?
Boat stands are designed as a balancing device. The weight of the boat rests on its keel and is supported by keel stands, keel benches or blocking. However, our stands have been independently tested and still function even under a 30,000lb. / 13,600kg load.
Thats per stand!
I'm under boats up to 80,000b all the time, never worry about it, although I do check the screws if the boat has been sitting for a while
Great score, George!
#110
That's pretty right there. Kinda makes me feel bad about myself. Just a little. Looks great man. Those jacks ought to do the job real good. Looking good so far. We are about a week out from starting on the body. So post a bunch of stuff so I can be ready for what we're getting in to.
#112
#114
It's a street car Allan but I'd like to do some cone racing with it also. The drag strip will only be a one time thing as I'm sure once they see the times it does I'll be banned without more safety equipment, rollbar, etc. It won't be a daily driver but I wanted it to be fast and handle so I can enjoy it my way. As it's a plain Jane 66 Cutlass convertible I wasn't entirely concerned with originality but I do want it to look good, go fast and handle. That's just me.
Randy it's the smallest gear set you can get in a S60...........3.54.
The first rear end was scrapped as no one had any interest in it. I replaced it with a Chevy 12 bolt but that had 4.10s and was a bit much for my liking and I didn't trust the 'C' clip axles. To get it 'my way' would have cost about as much as I have in this one so I took the money from selling it to help offset the cost of this unit. I basically got this rear end for $1500 after all is said and done.
Call me crazy....................
Randy it's the smallest gear set you can get in a S60...........3.54.
The first rear end was scrapped as no one had any interest in it. I replaced it with a Chevy 12 bolt but that had 4.10s and was a bit much for my liking and I didn't trust the 'C' clip axles. To get it 'my way' would have cost about as much as I have in this one so I took the money from selling it to help offset the cost of this unit. I basically got this rear end for $1500 after all is said and done.
Call me crazy....................
#115
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Hey Crazy! I think I get it. Honestly I think you're going to have more than enough get up and go with that setup. I also thought that setup was going to give you insane GR. But it's actually a decent number. Good thing gas prices are coming down or this thing would break the bank filling it up every couple miles..
#116
More Pics!
More Pics!
You must be as happy as I am to have a fairly mild winter this year, except for that cold snap last week.
Now that I have said that it will probably snow until April.
Go George!
More Pics!
You must be as happy as I am to have a fairly mild winter this year, except for that cold snap last week.
Now that I have said that it will probably snow until April.
Go George!
#117
Unfortunately today I was in the garage but working on a carb from a leaf blower. I was actually comfy but the owner was crying how cold it was, ha. He's a retired cop who helped me do the electric in the garage and built my bench and great draw with the Olds logo. I owe him for so much he's done for me that fixing the leaf blower was a small price to pay.
I think I figured out a way to lift the body using the engine hoist. At least one end at a time. I'll test that theory soon. I'll take more pics then.
I think I figured out a way to lift the body using the engine hoist. At least one end at a time. I'll test that theory soon. I'll take more pics then.
Last edited by TripDeuces; April 15th, 2016 at 08:56 AM.
#119
I also used an engine hoist , put chain downthrough the two drain holes in the trunk and put a spreader bar underneath I used a 4 x4 in the front tunnel and a floor jack to take it off, I used two engine hoists to put it back on.
Last edited by Eddie Hansen; January 28th, 2015 at 05:57 AM.
#120
Friend turned me on to this song from Ministry. Although I'm not religious I like it! Even has our girl at the 2 min mark.
Last edited by TripDeuces; October 26th, 2017 at 04:41 PM.