Tear Down
June 24th, 2014, 09:25 PM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I swear to god there's a black cloud over me.
The dash pad came in today from the Parts Place. Of course everyone I talked to said that was the place to get it. They are actually made by Dashes Direct. Although the outside looks nice there were problems with it. 6 studs instead of 7, flimsy lower section, missing holes and worst of all the studs don't line up with the instrument panel. So I took pics and sent them off so they can see for themselves. I hope to hear from them tomorrow. You be the judge:
The beat goes on............
The dash pad came in today from the Parts Place. Of course everyone I talked to said that was the place to get it. They are actually made by Dashes Direct. Although the outside looks nice there were problems with it. 6 studs instead of 7, flimsy lower section, missing holes and worst of all the studs don't line up with the instrument panel. So I took pics and sent them off so they can see for themselves. I hope to hear from them tomorrow. You be the judge:
The beat goes on............
June 25th, 2014, 02:24 PM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Finished up the gauge bezel today. I filled in the gap with JB Weld so now the light won't show through from the back side. Once it's restored by Ron I'll paint that black and no one will notice.
I removed more under the dash but I'm stumped on how to get the heater core and the rest of the heater system out. I may have to take the fender off to gain access to the back side.
Can someone confirm for me that the glove box is held in with push pin type retainers? Also, how do you get the cover lock assembly out of the glove box? There isn't any escutcheon to unscrew or remove from the back side. Was a nice big mouse nest in there from when the garage was being built, ewww nasty. Daddy fix.
I removed more under the dash but I'm stumped on how to get the heater core and the rest of the heater system out. I may have to take the fender off to gain access to the back side.
Can someone confirm for me that the glove box is held in with push pin type retainers? Also, how do you get the cover lock assembly out of the glove box? There isn't any escutcheon to unscrew or remove from the back side. Was a nice big mouse nest in there from when the garage was being built, ewww nasty. Daddy fix.
Last edited by TripDeuces; August 27th, 2014 at 12:07 PM.
June 25th, 2014, 04:45 PM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 2,972
Finished up the gauge bezel today. I filled in the gap with JB Weld so now the light won't show through from the back side. Once it's restored by Ron I'll paint that black and no one will notice.
I removed more under the dash but I'm stumped on how to get the heater core and the rest of the heater system out. I may have to take the fender off to gain access to the back side.
Can someone conform for me that the glove box is held in with push pin type retainers? Also, how do you get the cover lock assembly out of the glove box? There isn't any escutcheon to unscrew or remove from the back side. Was a nice big mouse nest in there from when the garage was being built, ewww nasty. Daddy fix.
I removed more under the dash but I'm stumped on how to get the heater core and the rest of the heater system out. I may have to take the fender off to gain access to the back side.
Can someone conform for me that the glove box is held in with push pin type retainers? Also, how do you get the cover lock assembly out of the glove box? There isn't any escutcheon to unscrew or remove from the back side. Was a nice big mouse nest in there from when the garage was being built, ewww nasty. Daddy fix.
I had to remove the fender to get to the bolts near the blower motor. Not a great design.......
Your gauges are going to look outstanding! Great Job!
June 26th, 2014, 02:30 PM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Thanks for all the gauge comments. With the instrument restored I think it will really stand out.
The Parts Place is taking the dash pad back. It's just unusable in that condition. Now the decision is to try Dashes Direct again or just pull the trigger on a very expensive Just Dashes one. I'll have the glove box done at the same time.
Today I officially have Popeye forearms from spinning all those wrenches. I'm sure all of you know exactly what I'm talking about. I got the AC unit and the heater core out but had to remove the fender and fender well. The stench was bad from the mice pee and poop. I dislike rodents with a passion. You can also see the heater core had a leak. Explains why it was disconnected.
We had a hellacious rain storm while I was out there. If you saw my demo thread you might recognize the new addition and garage across the street.
The Parts Place is taking the dash pad back. It's just unusable in that condition. Now the decision is to try Dashes Direct again or just pull the trigger on a very expensive Just Dashes one. I'll have the glove box done at the same time.
Today I officially have Popeye forearms from spinning all those wrenches. I'm sure all of you know exactly what I'm talking about. I got the AC unit and the heater core out but had to remove the fender and fender well. The stench was bad from the mice pee and poop. I dislike rodents with a passion. You can also see the heater core had a leak. Explains why it was disconnected.
We had a hellacious rain storm while I was out there. If you saw my demo thread you might recognize the new addition and garage across the street.
July 3rd, 2014, 10:04 PM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Well the instrument panel and dash pad and glove box were shipped out this week. Ten weeks from now I'll show you the results. I pulled the trigger on the Just Dashes unit. They will use my original dash pad and frame so I know it will fit this time. Yeah it's a lot of money but for me it's more about being correct than cutting corners. Trust me, if I could do this stuff myself I would. I'm all about hands on but I have my limitations. I Dremel tool, Harbor Freight and a 20v hand tools only go so far, lol. Keep on keeping on and happy 4th to all you Yankee bastages. I love America!
July 15th, 2014, 01:23 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Made some more progress today, albeit slow. Took out the seats and the carpet. I recently got some more tools to allow me to wire brush and sand some stuff off so I'm getting prepared to tackle the floor. Seats are in great shape along with the side covers and seat back cover. I'll be changing the color over to black so that's a good foundation. Although the pics show surface rust that is all it is. The camera made it look worse than it really is. The floors are in great shape except for one body plug that showed some rust through.
In one of the pics you can see the vacuum line attached to the floor and firewall. It snakes over to the glove box and activates the vacuum operated trunk release. I thought that was unique but maybe not to practical when the car is off.
In one of the pics you can see the vacuum line attached to the floor and firewall. It snakes over to the glove box and activates the vacuum operated trunk release. I thought that was unique but maybe not to practical when the car is off.
Last edited by TripDeuces; July 15th, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
July 15th, 2014, 01:27 PM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I also found these two galvanized steel tubes under the carpet by gas pedal. One is shorter than the other. Any idea what they are for?
My other question is about the seat belts. Was this style available in 66 or was it added from a later year?
My other question is about the seat belts. Was this style available in 66 or was it added from a later year?
July 15th, 2014, 01:27 PM
#53
morgan
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: CT
Posts: 1,925
Thanks for all the gauge comments. With the instrument restored I think it will really stand out.
The Parts Place is taking the dash pad back. It's just unusable in that condition. Now the decision is to try Dashes Direct again or just pull the trigger on a very expensive Just Dashes one. I'll have the glove box done at the same time.
Today I officially have Popeye forearms from spinning all those wrenches. I'm sure all of you know exactly what I'm talking about. I got the AC unit and the heater core out but had to remove the fender and fender well. The stench was bad from the mice pee and poop. I dislike rodents with a passion. You can also see the heater core had a leak. Explains why it was disconnected.
We had a hellacious rain storm while I was out there. If you saw my demo thread you might recognize the new addition and garage across the street.
The Parts Place is taking the dash pad back. It's just unusable in that condition. Now the decision is to try Dashes Direct again or just pull the trigger on a very expensive Just Dashes one. I'll have the glove box done at the same time.
Today I officially have Popeye forearms from spinning all those wrenches. I'm sure all of you know exactly what I'm talking about. I got the AC unit and the heater core out but had to remove the fender and fender well. The stench was bad from the mice pee and poop. I dislike rodents with a passion. You can also see the heater core had a leak. Explains why it was disconnected.
We had a hellacious rain storm while I was out there. If you saw my demo thread you might recognize the new addition and garage across the street.
July 17th, 2014, 08:03 PM
#57
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Deland Fla.
Posts: 535
Trip your doing a great job but man I did not realize you were doing the whole car I thought you were just doing that Godzilla motor, anyway I am in the same boat but going slow and upstream! going to take me a while to finish mine but I am plugging away and your post are motivating me and helping me along. Thanks for all your post and that black cloud will go away soon!!
July 17th, 2014, 09:07 PM
#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I'm like Pigpen on Charlie Brown. That little black cloud just keeps hanging around. No biggie though because I will overcome. Atm I'm looking at paint removal stuff and coatings afterward. Yes Rocketdave I'm going to remove the body from the frame. I never do anything half-assed. It's all or nothing. I may not completely rotisserie the whole thing but as long as the body is up off the frame I may have something to work with. Thanks for the kind words, that keeps me going too.
Today FedEx acknowledged that my instrument panel arrived at Ron Roth's on July 2nd. It's only two weeks late, wtf. The world is inept, I'm used to it. I know it's been at Ron's for two weeks. Just like my dash is at Just Dashes for two weeks, sigh. Anyway, going to play poker on Saturday and enjoy myself. All those who still follow this thread hang in there. One day it will be done. Hopefully I can keep the dream alive. Till then..........................
Randy S, Yes I have those vacuum canisters. Thx that will be helpful. Can I assume there is a one way valve in that canister? You know what, I'll test it.
Tru-Blue it's funny you said that. I had some guy go apeshit over my interior awhile back. Said I had the top of the line etc. Just looks normal to me but what do I know. I'll look for a new cover as one of mine is broken and make them black to match once it's all done.
Today FedEx acknowledged that my instrument panel arrived at Ron Roth's on July 2nd. It's only two weeks late, wtf. The world is inept, I'm used to it. I know it's been at Ron's for two weeks. Just like my dash is at Just Dashes for two weeks, sigh. Anyway, going to play poker on Saturday and enjoy myself. All those who still follow this thread hang in there. One day it will be done. Hopefully I can keep the dream alive. Till then..........................
Randy S, Yes I have those vacuum canisters. Thx that will be helpful. Can I assume there is a one way valve in that canister? You know what, I'll test it.
Tru-Blue it's funny you said that. I had some guy go apeshit over my interior awhile back. Said I had the top of the line etc. Just looks normal to me but what do I know. I'll look for a new cover as one of mine is broken and make them black to match once it's all done.
Last edited by TripDeuces; July 17th, 2014 at 09:12 PM.
July 21st, 2014, 03:03 PM
#59
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
More progress today. I took out the rear end. A lot of work for an old bastage with a caved in tibia but I managed. The rear end was not impressed with my cheap dolly and crushed it. Good thing it's cheap. Called Just Dashes today and almost had a heart attack. They got my dash pad and glove box but there was a different name on the package but from my town. Turns out Post All puts the workers name on it, whew. They will call soon to discuss what I want. Simple black please. Ron is plugging away on the instrument panel. And so it goes.
July 21st, 2014, 04:31 PM
#62
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 2,972
The one I mean is the carpet covered wood one. They're a little sturdier.........
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...lly-61899.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...lly-61899.html
July 22nd, 2014, 10:33 AM
#66
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The rear looks like it's in great shape. Should be easy to strip down. Now that it's out of the way, the fuel tank will be a breeze to get out.
I see you have the newer style (snap on caps) SSIII's. You going to keep them or go to SSI's or aftermarket?
BTW, to lower the diff and move it around I just used my 3 ton jack and strapped the axle to it good and tight. It's purdy heavy, isn't it? Don't strain too hard when you're lifting it or moving it around or your tighty whiteys won't stay that way long...
I see you have the newer style (snap on caps) SSIII's. You going to keep them or go to SSI's or aftermarket?
BTW, to lower the diff and move it around I just used my 3 ton jack and strapped the axle to it good and tight. It's purdy heavy, isn't it? Don't strain too hard when you're lifting it or moving it around or your tighty whiteys won't stay that way long...
July 22nd, 2014, 10:56 AM
#67
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I'll be going aftermarket on the wheels. It's mandatory for the bigger brakes I have. Although I like the SSI's I'm not sure how well they look in bigger sizes. I may go to a 5 spoke design of some kind. The tires are new on my SSIII's so I'm hoping someone will want to take them off my hands for a reasonable amount.
I think rear bumper and tail lights today. Have to see how I feel.
I think rear bumper and tail lights today. Have to see how I feel.
July 22nd, 2014, 11:03 AM
#68
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Rear bumper shouldn't be too hard once you undo the electrical. By the looks of how rust free the car is, shouldn't be too hard to undo those bumper bolts. Have fun!
July 22nd, 2014, 01:54 PM
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Did the shocks, lower control arms and sway bar today. H-O Racing control arms front and rear from a hundred years ago. 1 3/8 beasts and friggin heavy.
Maybe tomorrow for the rear bumper and tail lights and if I get ambitious the exhaust system.
Maybe tomorrow for the rear bumper and tail lights and if I get ambitious the exhaust system.
July 22nd, 2014, 02:04 PM
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I just wanted to put it out there that much of what I'm removing is getting replaced with other parts but obviously not all of it. If there is something you might have interest in you can always PM me and ask. I'm not into saving stuff just to have it lie around. I need to clean up around here. 
Things I know won't be getting reused off the top of my head:
330 CI engine, 320 hp version
Wheels and tires
Drive shaft
Rear control arms, upper and lower
Front suspension and steering
Chrome hood spike
AC/heating system
I'm sure there is more to come
Things I know won't be getting reused off the top of my head:
330 CI engine, 320 hp version
Wheels and tires
Drive shaft
Rear control arms, upper and lower
Front suspension and steering
Chrome hood spike
AC/heating system
I'm sure there is more to come
August 27th, 2014, 01:49 PM
#78
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,584
Cool deal on the build and the OD. I got a GV OD for my car too, still in the box but i checked it out too. Does your have a hose clamp holding the rear seal in? Mine does, I thought that to be strange but ok, i guess its insurance.
Good luck with the build
Steve
Good luck with the build
Steve
September 2nd, 2014, 02:13 PM
#79
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
I mounted the unit to the trans to mock up for the alteration to the cross member I'll be doing soon. Had my best friend over who's a welder by trade to give his advice. I'll measure it out and bring it over to him this Sunday.
Steverw, my rear seal also has a band clamp with tabs on it. I don't understand the reason for it because that seal is tight in the housing just like a normal trans seal would be. Who knows?
Steverw, my rear seal also has a band clamp with tabs on it. I don't understand the reason for it because that seal is tight in the housing just like a normal trans seal would be. Who knows?
