After a bit over 2 years of chassis resto / mod ( a before and after pic), time to start down the home stretch. Much thanks to the many helpful folks here. ESPECIALLY Mark ( CutlassEFI)- he has replied to probably "countless" emails from me and replied with expertise- can't wait to hear the cam you ground for me! Anyway, pics and details forthcoming.

 

Before- tired. oil burner....What was done-
Block cleaning/baking
Line bored
Over bored to 4.155"
Decked to 0
Cam bearings installed

 

Original N crank, mains ground .010 under, balanced and indexed.
Stroked to 3.5"
ICON flat top sbc pistons with Scat rods and TRW Rings

 

#1 & #2 are in.

 

What did it run u to have crank machined to fit the sbc conn rods?

 

The bill for all the crank work ( balanced, indexed, under ground and stroked) was a bit under 700$

 

What's the PN for the Icon pistons you used?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ue...-030/overview/

Here's a link to Summit and the pistons.

 

Cam's degreed, valve train geometry figured, camshaft endplay checked....next purchase is the torque converter so I can mate the block to the tranny and install......homestretch if life stays out of the way

 

You shouldn't run those stock head bolts with aluminum heads. You should use good ARP bolts or studs with hardened washers. Directly from Edelbrock:


Head Bolts or Studs: High quality head studs or head bolts with
hardened washers must be used to prevent galling of the aluminum
bolt bosses.

 

Looks great but I agree with Chadman, ARP bolts are the only way to go with aluminum heads.

 

About 1/2 way through a Pypes install which is my last step before firing it up after almost exactly 5 years Hoping it happens this Holiday weekend.
Have a safe Labor Day everyone, I'm staying home and avoiding the crush

 

good luck on the start up....any guesstimate of hp and trq?

 

Not really, if Mark reads this maybe he can chime in. I just built it for fun and "because" Thanks for the good luck wish!