SkylinesSuck

Not a traditional garage thread I know. I'll probably get to that at some point. I wasn't real sure where else this fit though, and it's kind of a big project. If a mod feels like moving this though, I won't be offended. I have my grandfather's '75 Cutlass Salon w/smogger 350 that I inherited, took to Japan an back, and am getting ready to have the body redone in a year or two. The 350 will barely get out of it's own way, especially considering the 2.56's, plus it's puffing blue smoke. The TH350 leaks and requires topping off every other month. It's a one wheel wonder. I think that covers most of my excuses to spend money I'm not looking for a race car, but I'd like something respectable when the soccer mom in the minivan next to me at the light starts trying to beat me to the next light.

I am thinking about basically upgrading the entire drive train before it's time to do body work so I don't mess up my nice new shiny paint after the fact. I'm thinking 3 major things all at once (or relatively close together):

-I have a 2 barrel 455 from a '70 88 if I remember correctly sitting in the shed. D heads I think but I'll go double check if it matters. It was supposedly a running engine when pulled. I already have a 4 barrel Edelbrock intake for it to bolt my current FiTech to (I know a lot of people aren't fans, but it works fine for me) and a pair of Thornton manifolds. I was not planning to rebuild it but instead refresh it before I throw it in. Maybe a small/moderate roller cam and RRs, Anything else I should consider besides some preventative maintenance---water pump, oil pump, and timing chain, plus anything else you guys reccomend. I already have a 2.5" dual exhaust just FYA.

-I am very interested in a 200r4 for the OD. Would a built 200r4 tranny ordered from a random performance tranny shop stand up to a mild BBO on street tires? I'm not saying I would never throw drag radials on it and see what it'll do and the strip, but that would be a rare instance.

-Rear end geared to match the 200r4 with some sort of traction device in the rear. A traditional limited slip would be fine, but I'm guessing there's something out there like a helical diff a la my TruTracs I have in my Jeep? I've been very happy with them thus far. Any input there for gear ratio and diff type?


I plan to take my time and rebuild the stock 350 properly and a little warmed over, then probably leave it on a stand for a while. Maybe even rebuild the TH350 and keep it stashed away as well. I just want something that looks relatively stock'ish, works well as a cruiser, and something my mom can't tell has been modified (it was her Dad's car) other than "those loud pipes."

no1oldsfan

I agree with many things. Of course upgrade the transmission. More gears the better. Make it yours.
So now that it is considered a historical car how close can you build that motor to a W-31 motor?

BangScreech4-4-2

I'd go with the 455. Those colonnades are heavy mothers, so you're gonna need torque to move you out.

Fun71

If you actually have D heads, sell them to finance your project.

SkylinesSuck

The 455 is definitely going in if nothing other than for keeping it going down the road while I rebuild the 350. I will never get rid of the original engine, but it needs rebuilding anyways and I found a good deal on a supposedly running 455 a couple years back, so the plan started there. I won't drastically alter the 350 for authenticity sake, but I don't mind going a little crazy on the 455 as it's "long term temporary" and not stock anyways. How you guys judge my overall plan and what suggestions you think on the specifics are what I'm hoping to learn.

I'll go check the heads in the morning. I remember they are supposed to be good but not the super expensive ones everybody is chasing (F heads?). Whatever they are, if they would pay for a set of aluminum heads, I'd sell them in a heartbeat.

SkylinesSuck

Looks like they are C heads. Old pics before I cleaned it up....

BangScreech4-4-2

C heads are probably ideal for your purposes. Good compression, big valve head.

D heads are for H/Os. Basic unobtanium.

SkylinesSuck

That's good to hear. I'm trying to avoid pulling them. Any guess what the compression ratio is? I've heard it can vary depending on what it was in and 2 barrel vs 4 barrel. I'm assuming that would influence cam choice. I guess I should consider torque converters as well?

Fun71

Well, you said it came from a '70 but that would be E heads. C heads mean '68 or '69. Those years were basically the same with 10.25:1 compression.

Oldsguy

Are you refering to this kind of Skyline?

SkylinesSuck

Kinda. I lived in Japan for 10 years and owned an R32. The name is a tongue in cheek nickname I got after I told some young marine drooling over my car (and he didn't know it was my car) and bagging on American cars that it was nothing special and just a (600hp) car. I told him "Actually, Skylines suck because of all the Fast and Furious ricers dry humping them all the time."

Oldsguy

Yeah, forgot about that car series, guess it made the car famous (infamous?) never watched the shows so I don't know for sure.

Doug Blake

Glad to hear your still enjoying it over here. how much hwy driving are you doing? that 68 455 has 9:1 and small/stock valves.

BangScreech4-4-2

'C' heads should have a 2.07 intake and, all things being equal, yield 10.25 compression.

SkylinesSuck

Not a ton of highway but I'd like to be able to do it comfortably when I do. I occasionally drive it to Ohio and NC from VA with the family and my wife will refuse to ride if it's loud and turning over 3500rpm at cruise speed.

That's two votes for 10.25:1 and a 9:1. I've always seen different numbers thrown around. I assume it's different pistons they used in different applications over the same head castings for different compression ratios if there are in fact different CRs out there? Should I be considering a set of aftermarket heads? I honestly don't mind dropping $1k-$2k on a set of bolt on heads, but I don't want to waste them on something that doesn't need them. I guess I should frame my questions differently. Would the gear/tranny/warmed over BBO get me into the low 13's or even high 12s with some drag radials?

Doug Blake

68 455 with 2brl had two versions
310hp/490tq 9:1
320hp/500tq 10.25:1

69 455 2brl only came with the 9.1 compression 310hp/490tq

70 455 2brl only came with the 9.1 compression 310hp/490tq

the C heads were 67-69, and for the valve sizes:
2.000” intake / 1.625” exhaust for all 68-70 standard 455
2.070” intake / 1.629” exhaust for all 68-70 Toro & Performance

3.23 would be better then for on hwy, still will wake up that 350

SkylinesSuck

Well, it sounds like you guys approve of my overall plan. Maybe this isn't the best section to ask for specific parts/build advice. I'll take it to the BBO section for cam recommendations and do something similar for the transmission/rear end questions. Thanks all 👍