When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
65 Cutlass rocker panel I only need to replace the passenger side so how do I go about this. I have tools and grinders just need help. I'm doing the floor patch right now just need to know how to start on the rocker panel. Pics will help me out. They are not rusty but were dented along the side. Maybe I can pull out so which is easier.
If the rocker panel is not rusty, it may be simpler to fix with a mig stud welder,and pull the dent out with a slide hammer ,fastened to the studs. There are videos of how this works . Just look up mig stud welder dent repair. Good luck,Larry
Pics and close up detailed at that would really help.
The rockers are likely thicker gauge steel compared to the rest of the body so the "nail/stud/puller" setup may not work....try to BORROW one if you want to try it. No use in spending the $ on a tool that might not be effective with thicker rocker metal.
The rockers are spot welded in A LOT of places...down below where it forms a pinch weld with the floor pan drop offs and possibly inside along the top of the floor (not sure on that as you'd have to scrape away any chalk/sealant they factory applied under the door sill plate or just inboard of there).
It may be spot welded at the front and back as well where they mate up to the inside cowl side and QP jamb. Again, take a close look and you should be able to see the distorted "divots" showing where the welds are.
I've seen and used pull "rods"....T-handled metal rods with a 90 degree bend on the end forming a sort of flat "hook" end. You have to drill a hole, put the bent tip in and yank!!
Any of the pulling methods will be a bit "crude" with the metal typically getting pulled out further/higher immediately around the hole (pull rod or screws method and the spot weld/stud gun method). Of course, if the dent is long it'll take multiple nails/studs or holes in the case of a pull rod or screw pull.
You also have the option of getting a good used rocker or repro and just cutting away the bad areas and MIG welding piece(s) in as a patch. Less distortion possibly from the thick/strong/curved rocker panel face.
I see what you are saying and I have a good parts car a 65 Cutlass. So just cut off upper and sides then the bottom and weld on after cutting both cars. I'll look at it Sunday. That's why I ask first before messing it up. I cut up the driver side where the feet sit as it was rusty even the gas peddle studs so I cut it out and placed it on the other good floor, then painted the edge and cut it out and matched it to the rusty floor should fit nice with good welding not bye me.
Here's a couple pics of what you are getting into during full outer rocker replacement.It's real tricky working around the jambs. In my case I would have been better off cutting a patch out of a donor car or new rocker and replacing only the outer face of the rocker that had numerous rust through holes.
Last edited by dream66; December 31st, 2017 at 08:34 AM.
For smaller stuff or unless not available I will shape sheet metal and make my own patches but for something big a donor car part is a huge plus. But its straight forward. cut tack weld fit doors if you like it weld it all in and smooth it out
For some repairs I ditch the studs and make my own pull tabs from flat sheet metal. Usually one big strip with slats cut into it and I use some vice grips and my slide hammer to pull it out. IN the picture I used the frame machine and pulling clamp.
currently I have a 59 f100 that needs a lot of metal work. We got lots of patch panels but many small areas I have had to hand make. A good anvil and practice will let you make your own patch panels.
Gerald, Carid.com shows replacement rocker panels in outer's,Inner's, and partial replacements, and their seem reasonable. Might be worth checking out. Larry
December 30th, 2017 | 03:03 PM
