How many have tried and had any luck using epoxy to install patch panels, floor pans or even whole quarters instead of welding them on?

 

I have never heard of anybody trying this and I don't think there is anyway in the world it would work.

 

I have heard of people doing this to non structural parts like pans and quarter patches. I personally would never do this as I can weld but evidently it is how most new cars are assembled today.

 

3M makes a 2 part adhesive for metal bonding , most collision shops use it on a limited basses . This is a good product and will be used more in the near future.

 

There any number of makers of this product out there today. The majority of late model repairs made in body shops are now done this way (sheet metal not structural) to prevent warpage from welding. Also, it eliminates the source of future rust out from a welded seam. Demos have shown that the metal will tear before the adhesive bond fails. It comes in various working times from 15 minutes to 90 minutes. Look into Speedgrip by Norton or 3M Automix 8115 Adhesive. It will make a believer out of you.

 

Now high end double barrel shotguns are glued(epoxy) together something that couldn't even been attempted ten years ago there are some remarkable products out there now.....Tedd

 

i won't be having my cars "glued together" anytime soon. imo, welding is permanent, gluing is a temporary fix. let's see a glued-together car hold up for 40+ years.


bill

 

Rust between a welded seam occurs because the replacement panel is lapped rather than butt welded. You can't convince me that the lapped glued panel is significantly better than a lapped welded one. Moisture is still going to get between the panels. Body shops use this method because cars don't last more than 10 years anyway. If you want a long term repair I suggest butt welding. JMO

 

Try this www.tcpglobal.com/. My friend used it on his Road Runner and he said it works great.

 

I work at a dealer ship that has a body shop and the use it all the time they tend to use it behind parts or on body lines something about the glue attracts the dust so with a good eye you can see the seem because of the dust it does protect from rust and is stronger than a weld put its designed to be peeled away for replacement reasons

 

These new cars nowadays are half plastic and half metal. You cant weld plastic onto metal so they use this Fusor. Easy to use and you dont have to worry about warpage. Works great and very strong.

 

I actually prefer doing patch panels with adhesive and rivets. You can remove rivets after adhesive sets if desired. A doubled up flange is stronger then a butt weld. Welding also changes the molecular structure of metal making it rust easier. Overlapping panels are sealed by the adhesive and when done correctly will not rust between the panels. This is my opinion. There are still places where welding may be the best choice, and those where adhesive is the hot lick. Look at Eastwood. com for their adhesive and panel replacement kits. On a long seam, (30+ inches), a flange and adhesive gives a nice straight,strong seam without any warpage.

 

I have seen the strengh of epoxy first hand. i worked at a shop in western n.y. about 10 years ago when a car that had a full rear quarter replaced about a year earlier (epoxy applied) had been in a accident and the quarter riipped off the car in a mangled mess, the epoxy still held on all the edges and the metal ripped before the epoxy gave. i would have been a skeptic had i not seen it for myself. so i think epoxy can be used on structural panels and not affect safety. I know that rust never sleeps but I would like to put it in a longer coma between two panels.

 

Good point, I know it will hold but I also would like to see how it holds up after 40 yrs.

 

Here are some pics of fabricated panel replacement. I did cheat a little and put seam under chrome strips. I am a beginner at this, and it ain't perfect, but I DID IT.

 

Nice job

 

I just came across this post.... In aircraft (747's ,50's 90's pretty much most passenger planes) assembly the panels are glued and riveted together. The only reason for the rivets is to hold it together untile the adhesive is fully cured. They use a brand called "LORD" Adhesive. It comes in a couple of different types. The strongest was a green color and anything that was going to be powder coated was a red color. On a warm day you have about 15 minutes or it's over with the green. The redstuff for the high temps had a longer work life (30-35 min)but was only 80-85% as strong as the green. Either is fine for automotive panel replacment. It's around $80-$90 for the 2 part tubes and you have to buy static mixing nozzles and a special caulk type gun to despense it. You also need a respirator or I'm pretty sure you won't make it too long. I was not sure about it until I seen the destruction testing. Some of these planes have been in servise since the early to late 80's or even further back. Look at the sides of them next time boarding!!!!