Dent's 72.
Very nice and clean shop! Who's dat funny looking guy with the prison suit and welding helmet? 
LOL I like red coveralls better.
Great job H. So the inner liner and drop down was toast too huh? When it's done it should be really solid. Now I'm curious. With the rust that you're fixing, how's the frame?

LOL I like red coveralls better.Great job H. So the inner liner and drop down was toast too huh? When it's done it should be really solid. Now I'm curious. With the rust that you're fixing, how's the frame?
LOL , Ya dat prison getup was free. Well once i get the sheet metal work dun , I'll get the body off and THEN we will see how the frame looks. All the body mount bolts came out with no complaining so hopefully its not to bad.
You planning to document your frame numbers too as part of the resto?
Yup, here's a thread where we talked about it earlier.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post334449
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post334449
Keep up the good work Henry. Love hearing about and seeing your progress reports.
I painted a car before that had an uneven joint , so i just blocked it and continued on. Maybe a year later it was showing some slight uneven or bulging in the solder . Anyway I eventually did remove the solder and found a small patch of rust under it. Lesson learned.
Hmmmm, sorry Henry. I missed this when you posted it.
The only thing I've used to 'encapsulate' rust has been the POR products and DOM16. I know that Eastwood has a rust encapsulator product. I've just never used it. I believe Rob Young has though. Send him a PM and ask if it's effective. You probably know him better as Lady72'nRob71 https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=7085
BTW, nice work on the 'small details'. I know how time consuming that can be. Sad part is only you will know what's actually been done with some of the parts that will be hidden by the finished build. Great dedication to your car. Keep up the great work.
The only thing I've used to 'encapsulate' rust has been the POR products and DOM16. I know that Eastwood has a rust encapsulator product. I've just never used it. I believe Rob Young has though. Send him a PM and ask if it's effective. You probably know him better as Lady72'nRob71 https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=7085
BTW, nice work on the 'small details'. I know how time consuming that can be. Sad part is only you will know what's actually been done with some of the parts that will be hidden by the finished build. Great dedication to your car. Keep up the great work.
Hey oldzzy, I had a lot of fun getting that floor brace , I ordered one from 3 different suppliers they all sent the wrong part. The centre seatbelt nuts were in the wrong place , well actually all the nuts were incorrect. I called one of the suppliers and the said that was the only one they sell for my car. I finally got the most correct one from Goodmark and I still had to move the outside seatbelt nuts but at least the centre ones are correct . Ill post some pics of the parts.
Last edited by DENT; Mar 12, 2012 at 06:00 AM.
I don't understand how they are in different spots. The only thing i can think of is one location for bench seats and the other for bucket seats. After pulling my brace out i found that it wasn't as bad as i thought, and was able to reuse it.
Question...
Please forgive my ignorance, but I am just trying to learn bodywelding...
When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.
So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.
Thanks in advance for the info!!
When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.
So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.
Thanks in advance for the info!!
Please forgive my ignorance, but I am just trying to learn bodywelding...
When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.
So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.
Thanks in advance for the info!!
When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.
So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.
Thanks in advance for the info!!
You may be right Allen R , when I ordered the one from Goodmark I specified 1970 - 1972 instead of 65-72 . They have a good picture on there web site.
Last edited by DENT; Mar 12, 2012 at 06:01 AM.



