Dent's 72.

Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:43 PM
  #41  
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Very nice and clean shop! Who's dat funny looking guy with the prison suit and welding helmet? LOL I like red coveralls better.
Great job H. So the inner liner and drop down was toast too huh? When it's done it should be really solid. Now I'm curious. With the rust that you're fixing, how's the frame?
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #42  
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LOL , Ya dat prison getup was free. Well once i get the sheet metal work dun , I'll get the body off and THEN we will see how the frame looks. All the body mount bolts came out with no complaining so hopefully its not to bad.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DENT
LOL , Ya dat prison getup was free. Well once i get the sheet metal work dun , I'll get the body off and THEN we will see how the frame looks. All the body mount bolts came out with no complaining so hopefully its not to bad.
You planning to document your frame numbers too as part of the resto?
Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:11 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
You planning to document your frame numbers too as part of the resto?
Sure. Do you know where they are located?
Old Jan 5, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DENT
Sure. Do you know where they are located?
Yup, here's a thread where we talked about it earlier.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post334449
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #46  
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Get the led out.

The quarter to roof factory lead was not as straight as it should be so out it comes.
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Last edited by DENT; Jan 11, 2012 at 06:05 AM.
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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Personally, I'd have straightened out with a torch - easy to do!
If you hit all the exposed steel with 'Metal Prep', you'll have less chance of rust-reoccurance!
Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:04 AM
  #48  
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Over time these joints can get air bubbles and then rust can start under the lead. I welded the seam to prevent any more air pockets.
Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:10 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by DENT
Over time these joints can get air bubbles and then rust can start under the lead. I welded the seam to prevent any more air pockets.
Interesting observation. I have never seen that, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. I know that the seam needs to be as invisible as possible. I'm not sure how careful the factory was with these seams for cars that were destined for vinyl tops. I know the foront pillar seam on my car could benefit from some smoothing out before the vinyl roof goes on.

Keep up the good work Henry. Love hearing about and seeing your progress reports.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 08:39 AM
  #50  
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I painted a car before that had an uneven joint , so i just blocked it and continued on. Maybe a year later it was showing some slight uneven or bulging in the solder . Anyway I eventually did remove the solder and found a small patch of rust under it. Lesson learned.
Old Jan 15, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #51  
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Some pics from saturday.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #52  
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Making real progress there Henry. Are you going to do the engine/tranny yourself or farm it out?
Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Great thread! Love those yellow cars!
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 04:39 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Making real progress there Henry. Are you going to do the engine/tranny yourself or farm it out?
Well I know a really good transmission builder , see if I can get him to go through it. The engine runs very good, think I'll just clean and paint it.
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 04:47 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 67 442
Great thread! Love those yellow cars!
Thanks . I wasn't a big fan of the color at first but it kinda grows on you so it will be yellow again.
Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #56  
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Oh boy , more scrubin
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #57  
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You going to use rust encapsulator when you spray it? That's going to be clean enough to eat off when you're done.
Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:58 PM
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Lookin good dent gonna be nice when its done mine should be gettin the vinyl top by this weekend.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by beebee78
Lookin good dent gonna be nice when its done mine should be gettin the vinyl top by this weekend.
Thanks, I'v been watching your thread,very nice.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 04:47 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
You going to use rust encapsulator when you spray it? That's going to be clean enough to eat off when you're done.
Good question , do you know of something that actually works?
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:33 AM
  #61  
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Well , doesn't look like much happening in this garage, but a lot of little things getting done.
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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some pics
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #63  
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Nice work Henry! Is that middle brace you replaced from cross canada? If it was, were the seatbelt nuts in the same place as your old ones?
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by DENT
Good question , do you know of something that actually works?
Hmmmm, sorry Henry. I missed this when you posted it.
The only thing I've used to 'encapsulate' rust has been the POR products and DOM16. I know that Eastwood has a rust encapsulator product. I've just never used it. I believe Rob Young has though. Send him a PM and ask if it's effective. You probably know him better as Lady72'nRob71 https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=7085

BTW, nice work on the 'small details'. I know how time consuming that can be. Sad part is only you will know what's actually been done with some of the parts that will be hidden by the finished build. Great dedication to your car. Keep up the great work.
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 04:56 AM
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Thanks Allan R,
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:13 AM
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Hey oldzzy, I had a lot of fun getting that floor brace , I ordered one from 3 different suppliers they all sent the wrong part. The centre seatbelt nuts were in the wrong place , well actually all the nuts were incorrect. I called one of the suppliers and the said that was the only one they sell for my car. I finally got the most correct one from Goodmark and I still had to move the outside seatbelt nuts but at least the centre ones are correct . Ill post some pics of the parts.

Last edited by DENT; Mar 12, 2012 at 06:00 AM.
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:17 AM
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Centre brace pics.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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I don't understand how they are in different spots. The only thing i can think of is one location for bench seats and the other for bucket seats. After pulling my brace out i found that it wasn't as bad as i thought, and was able to reuse it.
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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Ya , one supplier (I won't name) pretty much said I didn't know what I was talking about , so I sent them the pics and part#. Maybe they have the right part now.
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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Question...

Please forgive my ignorance, but I am just trying to learn bodywelding...

When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.

So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.

Thanks in advance for the info!!
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by btrbill
Please forgive my ignorance, but I am just trying to learn bodywelding...

When you replace your quarterpanels, you cut away the rotten part you want to replace up to a certain point (below the curve for your "s"), then trim the new panel to about the same place... Then you use your screws to hold the two pieces together and cut along the line you want to weld, tacking every 6 inches or so as you go.

So when you are done, a little if the original is cut off below the weld, and a little of the new is cut off above the weld. Is that correct? I have seen several different ways, but if this is right, it seems to be the best way to kep everything straight.

Thanks in advance for the info!!
Yup, thats the idea , over lap a few inches . Just make sure your new panel fits nice and flat to the old one so you don't have to force it down. You may have it on and off several times but just take your time and you should be fine.
Old Mar 6, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DENT
Centre brace pics.
Those 2 braces don't even look close to being the same. Would it make any difference if the braces were Pontiac, Buick or Chev? I thought they were all the same back in 72...
Old Mar 7, 2012 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Those 2 braces don't even look close to being the same. Would it make any difference if the braces were Pontiac, Buick or Chev? I thought they were all the same back in 72...
You may be right Allen R , when I ordered the one from Goodmark I specified 1970 - 1972 instead of 65-72 . They have a good picture on there web site.

Last edited by DENT; Mar 12, 2012 at 06:01 AM.
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:09 AM
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Found this under the dash. Some more pics too.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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Wow! Your car was built just 11 days after mine! Where behind the dash?
Yours


Mine
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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After rotating the body a few times it must a fell out from behind the glovebox or something like that. Thats kinda cool , were did you find yours?
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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This one was under the carpet close to the trans hump.
Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:22 AM
  #78  
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Got a bit more done
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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Sweet ! It's all down hill from here
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:07 AM
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Just had a double hernia repair on monday so I won't get much dun for a week or so, but I did some chassis work. I'll try to get some pics up later on today.

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