Good job on wiring the overpressure switch. You definitely want that to be working if you will be using R-134a refrigerant. That stuff can generate enormous head pressure if the outside temps get too high. We encountered systems with over 500 lbs. PSI when I was installing systems in Phoenix. The outside temps could go as high as 150~170 degrees while sitting in traffic. In order to get the systems to cool properly we would let the cars sit out in the parking lot and run, then bleed off the refrigerant until the pressures dropped to normal range and they would then cool down the interior. R-134a is finicky stuff in hot climates!

 

Wow, That is a lot of pressure!! It's not that hot here in Michigan, but still gets pretty hot & muggy. Well I'm going to take in to get charged after I get the pulley alignment set. I still have a few things left to do (refill coolant, put seat back in ,etc). The weather has just started to warm up even though it's now April. Snow is gone but still salt on roads. We need a few good rains before I'll take it out.

 

Got the pulley spacers from Inline Tube today. (1st pic) It looks like I need all 3 to get them lined up. I'm not sure why there is a misalignment. I put a different cam and chain in last winter and I'm wondering if somehow that changed how far the harmonic balancer/crank pulley sits out on the crank, because I would think I would have noticed this misalignment before. Anyway 2nd pic shows the water pump with all 3 shims on it. 3rd pic shows the straight edge on the crank pulley and water pump pulley-Looks good. Added coolant and started it up all seems ok. Now I am installing a power trunk release and other little odds and ends. Soon I'll take it to a/c shop and get charged...

 

Finally got the car all back together and took down to ARA in Lansing for charging. Got a call from them about 2 hrs later, they left a message asking me to call....doesn't sound good. Called back and he said the compressor was leaking like a sieve from the shaft seal... no,No,NO,why does this happen??? Anyway I called Ron at Classic Auto Air and he said it is normal for the compressor shaft seal to leak oil when it's first used and will seal up after its used a while (or something to that effect). Well here we go... I don't know who is right I just am feeling my wallet will be lighter after this is settled.. So I asked Ron to call ARA which he did. ARA told Ron that the compressor shaft seal is leaking refrigerant, not oil which Ron said it very unusual. So as it stands now I have ordered another compressor from CAA to be sent to ARA, and then they will install it and charge the system. I decided to do it that way because it is such a PITA for me to go get the car and then take it back down to Lansing after I change the compressor. Then I hope everything is OK. Then I will have to send the 1st compressor back to CCA where they will check it and issue a refund-I HOPE-. I repainted the compressor before I installed it because it was semi gloss and I wanted it gloss black. I'm just hoping everything will turn out ok. Back when I was younger and poorer I always had old junkers and bought used parts and cobbled things up to make them work. When there was problems I wasn't too surprised. But now I am to the point that I can afford a little better and I don't want problems which is why I bought everything from Classic Auto Air. I could have gotten stuff cheaper but my thoughts are if everything is from one place there won't be any questions if there's a problem who has the responsibility to resolve it. Well we'll see how it all goes. I'll keep you posted.

 

Yow - that sucks! I can understand a little oil, but not leaking freon.
Does this use the modern double lip seal or the traditional ceramic one? This would be nice to know because when I talked to them about rebuilding my original they said they would use the ceramic which they admitted to being slightly finicky....
They should pay for return shipping and everything.
I sure hope this next one works better.

 

Rob, I don't know what seal they used. You going to get your compressor soon?

 

I am leaning to getting a new A6. I was wanting to have the old one rebuilt, but for the high price, shipping both ways and a puny 3 month warranty did not attract. Your issue made up my mind.
I should start seeking the new A6 soon - got everything else now.

 

Well , Classic Auto Air sent the 2nd compressor to me even though I asked them to send it to ARA. Oh well I took it to ARA and they installed it.I picked up the car a few days later. My buddy drove it back and said the air was good and cold. We looked out at the car and noticed a wet spot under it in my driveway and thought it was sort of foamy looking but thought it was maybe a coating or something washing off of the evaporator from the condensation- didn't open the hood. Next day went out to car to check out and get idling better w/air on. Found out that I still have a intake manifold to head vacuum leak- been a on going problem- Then shut off car and heard a hissing and saw oily frothy oil/refrigerant leak coming out below POA valve. See 2nd pic also 1st pic my finger is pointed at it. So.... Took back to ARA- It wasn't anything they did- that was my work. I either over tightened it or didn't tighten it at all. Anyway they took it back apart and replaced the o-ring. For free... Great guys.. I recommend them for anyone in the Lansing area. So everything is ok now except for the warrantee issue on the 1st compressor. CCA did charge my card for the 2nd compressor and shipping from them to me. I returned it to them via UPS and had to pay for shipping from me to them. So I expect a refund for the compressor and shipping both ways. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

Got the refund from Classic Auto Air for the 1st compressor, so I can say they have treated me fairly....but...Have had some problems with the a/c since. Now the compressor cycles on & off and the clutch on the compressor got hot enough that it smoked off the paint. I am in the process of checking out if the charge is correct or if I have another problem.... Took the car down to Springfield for the Nationals and took the old Route 66 as much as we could from Joliet, Ill to Springfield. It was hot so I tried to use the air and had problems... VERY FRUSTRATED!!! Anyway car ran great otherwise and weather was cool so had a nice time. I am know wondering if my all fiberglass repop hood is causing poor air flow into the car. We'll see.

 

Well, It's been a couple months since I updated this thread. I am pretty sure the repop hood isn't causing a air flow problem. But I still am not sure everything is ok. I think the aftermarket high/low switch is causing the problems, cycles on & off too often. Life has gotten in the way and I haven't gotten it sorted out yet.

 

Wow - sorry to hear about all the troubles....
That o-ring leak is a common problem I have heard. That one requires a particular odd o-ring size. If a common size one is used, it will not seal properly.
It now seems your head pressure is too high, tripping your limit switch.
Fan clutch okay? Could have wrong charge...
Is this still on a POA valve?
Do post your findings. I dread doing the final AC work to mine this spring.

 

You need to make sure any and all fan shroud material was re-installed. That includes the rubberized canvas flaps over the sides of the radiator. Most aftermarket A/C systems should come with insulating foam to put between the condensor and radiator around the edges. This makes sure the fan draws air through the condensor and not around the back side of it through the radiator. Like I mentioned before, R134 refrigerant generates enormous head pressures if the condensor is not cooled properly. It also seems to work opposite to R12 in that too much refrigerant will cause inadequate cooling and higher head pressures. Make sure you have pressure switches that are calibrated for the newer refrigerant too. R12 pressure switches will cycle the compressor off too quickly

 

Well, I was just messing around today looking at my old threads for memories sake and realized I never completed this thread. I was so frustrated about the whole A/C thing that I let it sit as it was for 2-3 years. When I finally got back to it, I took it back to ARA and told them to fix it! Basically gave them a blank check and I expected to pay thru the nose. They called me back within 2 hrs and said the system was way overcharged! They said that they didn't know that I had a aftermarket condensor that was made for 134 and that is why they charged it like that. I think they were just trying you cover their *** but anyway they took out refrigerant and all has been well since.
--A couple things I would have done different if I had to do it all over.
--1) I would not have dealt with Classic Air in Florida, for 2 reasons: a) Their after sale customer service sucked. b) I should have done everything local- shipping back and forth 1200 miles is just stupid!
--2) I would have had everything done by ARA or some other A/C specialist- that way if there was problems only one place is responsible.
-- It's funny after looking thru this thread I remembered how frustrated I was. It's too bad when someone wants to do a good job and is not afraid to spend big money seems to get no or very little cooperation from the vendor (Supposed expert).

 

Greg - Working on the AC on my '71 CS convertible was not something I cared to tackle - just one large PITA, IMO. When I purchased the vehicle I was told the AC worked just fine - I tested it and it had 'some' cold air - not much. I purchased the vehicle. After purchase, I found out the evaporator core was shot. The seller (small used car sales lot) & I worked out a deal. He paid for the new evaporator core up to $300.00. The AC system on mine was replaced earlier at some point (by a previous owner) in time w/ R134. I had my local automotive service garage do the AC repairs - I purchased the parts and did some of the disassembly (other than the evaporator core) - they replaced the evaporator core & some various labor work. I changed out the evaporator core, installed a new (rebuilt) AC compressor, new drier & new POA for the tune of about $900.00 in total as I recall. So, with the $300.00 from the seller I was out $600 but fitted with essentially a new AC system. I consider in the long run I did pretty good. The AC blows out extremely cold air. AC systems just aren't my cup-of-tea.

Speaking of the AC system. I now have all the front UCA & LCA assemblies removed except the passenger side. I'm going to have a look-see inside the passenger side wheel well again today (with more detail) to see if there is any chance in hell I can remove the nuts and then the bolts which mount the UCA to the frame on that side. I have these inner fender well 'curtains' (they're like cut-outs) for access to the hardware but I'm not certain I'll gain enough access to remove the passenger side UCA mounting (center shaft) hardware w/out having to remove the AC compressor. I don't know why, but I hate removing that AC compressor. It's just going to add that much more time and hassle - argh! If it has to be removed that's what I'll do. The driver side was rather tough getting the center shaft hardware removed - not really tough, but a challenge. From the looks of it thus far, I just don't think I can gain enough leverage to remove the center shaft hardware on the passenger side. Buggers.

 

You do not need to remove the AC compressor to get the UCA out. There should be plenty of room to access everything if you go in from the fender well opening.

 

Kenneth - I know you own the same vehicle as myself. I am sooooooooooooooo hoping you are correct. I have no reason to doubt you, but it sure does look mighty tight in there. In particular, those two center shaft bolts are what worry me. I used a block of wood for leverage against the head on the driver side to remove those bad boys with a long crow bar. Like I said, it wasn't easy going, but it wasn't necessarily tough. I'll soak them well and before trying to get the bolts out, I can hopefully get a long crow bar, screw driver, or something in there to give each nut on the bolt and the bolt itself a couple good wacks with a BFH to loosen them up. Once the nuts get loosened, I'm hoping to be able to get the UCA to slide towards the engine and bang the inner sleeve of the bolt from topside. Thanks for your input.