By the way these are for up to 62. 63-64 are totally different.

 

I went to see the wp guru today, turns out I have an AC wp I had rebuilt a few years ago, problem was they didnt completly press it together all the way. A C pumps also have a larger bearing. I wish I would have got that ebay one for 45.00 I had to pay 90.00 for a Superior pump. But now my A C pulleys line up on my mock up engine.

 

More pics:
This is my mock up engine so I can fabricate brackets for the future upgrades that will include A/C , 105 alternator and a more modern compact power steering pump

 

I decided to ditch the Detriot Diesel green for Starfire red since the them of the engine will be a special order Starfire engine that was almost available in the 88

 

 

Just like the 63s that almost got 4 speed T 10 trannys.
The T-10 just wasn't strong enough for the heavy Olds with it's massive low
end torque.
Read post number 39 by Owen Thomas on this link :
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ds+stick+shift

 

Since Weiand an aftermarket product is, is that manifold you show us cast iron?

 

Stock cast iron, shaved , ported, ground down smooth with a grafted name cast from one of my valve covers. If you read back through the thread I explain it.

 

That's what I thought, since even the H.A.M.B.os never even heard of an aluminum Quadrajet manifold for that engine series. It's just strange to think that an aftermarket parts company would just duplicate an O.E.M. item when there's an abundant surplus of used items at scrapyards, instead of coming up with something exclusive. It just doesn't make sense.
The only other solution would be to organize other owners of cars with that engine series, through an Olds club, for example, and have everyone pitch in to get, say, 1000 Quadrajet manifolds cast. To get just 1 done would be much more expensive than to get a series of them produced. That's what a NSU tt club here did when they needed high-capacity cast aluminum oilpans:

http://www.nsutt.de/shop/product_inf...36&language=de



Some guy north of here even cast his own bellhousing, when he needed one for fitting a Lloyd Arabella engine into his BMW motorcycle frame. He did it in his backyard like Fred Flintstone would have done it, except that he used a vaccuum cleaner piped backwards to feed air to the coals. Unfortunately, that would be too tall an order for a sophisticated item like an intake manifold:

http://www.classic-motorrad.de/winni...ne_spezial.htm



That's why the Olds is the rocket and the Poncho is the chief kicking back, smoking a piece pipe

 

I was just goofing around with the name thing..... There would be hood clearance issues with anything else anyway, With the 1" spacer I'm going to have a few problems but I got them figured out.

 

Well, It looks like the assembly gremlins have arrived..... Laid the crank in the block and noticed it wouldn't rotate completely and discovered the machine shop didn't dress down their Mallory metal weld job (done by the owner) and THEN I see what looks like a crack!!!!! I have ALOT of money in this crank getting it drill for the pilot and the balance job, I'm hopeful the shop won't try to side step me. They wanted 500.00 to put it together. Going over there tomorrow. I do have another crank if I have to start over.

 

Hopefully the machine shop makes this right. Good Luck

 

The suspected crack turned out to be a casting flaw, on with the build. Crank and cam are installed and spinning smoothly ! Ring installation next. I ended smoothing out the welds, there's only .035 clearance to begin with between the crank and main cap....

 

do you mean .0035 ?

.035 is a little to big

Gene

 

Not the thrust bearing clearance, the clearance between the crank throw and the block.

 

This is the type of thread I've been looking for. I'm about to purchase a '61 4-door olds dynamic 88 and one thing on the list is to rid it of that slim jim to slap a manual in it. I can't wait to see how you handle that. Big thumbs up from Texas.

 

Time for an update, The engine assembly went well. I had to use the 63 Oil pan without the wind age tray because the "blueprinted" press fit pick up tube oil pump the vendor sold me would not work with my 61-62 pan. He said it would be alright but I'll only be running with a 4 qt oil capacity. The problem was the oil drain plug on the 62 pan was hitting the bottom of the standard volume oil pump.I was told by my cam vendor Charles at www.camcraftcams.com not to use the high volume oil pump Mounting the cross member and bell housing with my modified mounts was quite the challenge also. I built an engine test stand out of a stainless steel 2 ton sulfur cylinder cradle I got out of the scrap bin at work. I'm going to fire this engine out of the car so it's easier to fix any problems and set up the hydraulic release bearing. I had the distributor rebuilt by J at www.advanceddistributors.com and he did a beautiful job only to have the postal carrier drop it and did a little damage to it that I've since repaired. I was preoiling the engine and got oil to the shafts but not the rocker tips and the vendor I bought the assembles couldn't answer why the oil isn't coming out of the rockers. But I've come to the conclusion it's a factory design flaw that's new been fixed. So when you see all those rocker shafts on ebay there pretty much useless. I'm going to work with another vendor to try and rebush my original rocker assemblies to divert the oil to the holes. If that can't be done I'm just going to re drill the new ones I have. So the start up is on hold. I filled the block with water and had no leaks before I but the oil in. The radiator is a 3 core ebay special that I will actually use in the car along with the mufflers if they sound good. But I'm out of money for now so the start up is on hold. Here are some pictures.








modified Wilwood pedal for clutch, I'll be cutting the pedal pads in half for a stock look

11"pressure plate was a tight fit had to clearance block for bolts

 

This is my engine test stand I built. New ones are 900.00. I bought some heavy duty casters from Northern Tool, the rest was scrap stuff. I drilled everything so I can also use it on my 428 Pontiac engine later.

mock up engine used for set up







[IMGhttp://i60.tinypic.com/icmww9.jpg[/IMG]


Whens the last time you saw an original 66 Muncie still wearing its original part number tag and back up light switch? This thing looks like brand new inside...500.00 !!!with shifter!


Some more parts I didn't need from ebay, pulleys 61-2 AC,NOS, 1164M cam bearings, new ones list for 120.00, 35.00 for these. Factory photo

 

Your engine stand is nicer than my car.

- Eric

 

Well ladies and gentlemen, at last, after 9 long months to fruition (like a baby) it's running. Still have some carburetor adjustments to do. Did the cam break in run. And have run it a few times, need to change the oil filter but the oil is still clean and NO SPARKLES, This is the best I could do to get the video on here I had to use my FB link, I don't know it that's against the law or not, I used my phone to record it. Enjoy.....
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

 

Just got the carburetor choke settings dialed in so it idles nice and re torqued all the head bolts. The ARP studs I used on the rocker stands were still tight but all the stock bolts took an easy 15 lbs more for a total of 75 lbs. I had to go with the ARP studs (17.00 ea ouch!) because those 6" stock bolts had so much twist I cracked one of my stands on my first set of rockers. I also made 1//4" s/s studs for the valve covers so the gaskets were easier to manage. It was a bit of a chore because I couldn't keep it simple with a regular nut, I had to use closed end trick looking s/s acorn nuts. I also had some shivey valve cover spreader tabs that I used on the bottom studs so there shouldn't be any leaks. I am real happy so far. I'm going to do a compression check and make sure everything is tight. Then I will mount the release bearing, master cyl and transmission and dial all that in. I really want to build a set of headers for it but I also want to get it on the road. Headers by ED has kits so that's what I will be using. Just don't know when. Also a guy emailed me who has the twin to my car but his is like new with only 11k miles out of a 45 yr storage.
Just went back through my thread and noticed I missed a bunch of updates. My first set of aftermarket rockers were not oiling the rocker tips so I looked around the web and found www.rockerarms.com and he rebuilt my original ones and put grooves in the bushings and now everything gets oil, cost me another 300.00 but was worth it because I wouldn't want to burn up a 7000.00 engine now would I ?. I will post some pics that I missed later.

 

Here's some of the pictures I missed. I'll also make a more condensed video so you don't have to sit through the music
Personalized plates I wanted 1961UFO but it wasn't available.
I polished out the original white paint and sanded to roof down to the original blue,I like the white better



This is a jacking plate I fabbed to lift the engine by the oil pan rails so I wouldn't cave my oil pan into the oil pump. This will allow me to raise the engine in the car to remove the lower flywheel cover and bell housing in the car.


I also notched out the cros smember so I can remove the bell housing without removing the 10 cross member bolts. I cut the bottom of it first, welded in my piece and then cut the top so the size wasn't off



Here's the rocker modes

 

They resurfaced the stands also so the new ARP studs fit flush

85% of them had oil right out of the box, but like anything custom I had to shim 3 of the rockers out to get oil but it didn't interfere with any pushrods

sacrificial chrome VC, my painted ones were too nice to cut, these were junk

I had to index the balancer a 1/4" at a time to find the two locations were the oil fed each rocker shaft, I burned up a 3/8" electric drill testing the rockers
The spacers will allow for forward and backward adjustment to the cross member, pilot bushings work well, also will be using 4' hyd. lines yes foot

Had to drill and tap 2 of the mount bolts

Found some really nice 12 point bolts at McMaster Carr

 

missed this one, this took awhile but when I found the 2 spots where the rockers get oil thru the cam timing I paint penned them on. But hopefully I will never need them again



I'm working on a how to instructions on the 4 speed conversion in case someone else wants to do it . I believe I'm the only one on the internet that has done one recently to a 394. My friend Gary Cope in Auburn Ca also has a 61 Olds wagon and back in Dec of 63 he bought a brand new Muncie from the dealer and put it in a 57 Olds and pulled 15's through the 1/4 mile with it.If anyone wants a cost break down just PM me, I've learned a ton of information during this build on who has the parts, quality of parts, prices of parts, tweeks and custom touches but I'm not even done. I was quoted 6500 without S&H and extra stuff and I'm into this whole project for about 8 grand and I picked up a lot of extra parts along the way. It is a huge amount of money to spend on an obsolete engine with a 4 speed but it will be a one of a kind. Besides, my time on this earth is about 2/3rds over so this is my 2/3rd the way to retirement to myself in case I don't make it all the way. This is chump change to my Mopar Hemi buddies who don't even get started with 10 K and we all know what Mondello's start at. Anyway nuff said.........

 

You've done a great job on a difficult project. Looks sweet. I have always preferred different makes for great conversation. Well done

 

Put on a new Hayden fan blade since the clutch fan was bad, now it will hold a magazine to radiator at 2000 rpm. I also had my 105 amp alternator rebuilt and converted to 1 wire and bought an Optima Red Top Battery that fits in the stock battery box location (were no other big batteries would fit without forcing them).Now for the driveshaft, going to need a custom built one 4-500 dollars for an aluminum one. The issue is it has to be 63" long, for that to work the best it would be best to go aluminum and 4"dia. I talked to driveline specialist in San Antonio about different options. I found one way to use a shorter driveline, Install a Gear Vendors ! Had one on my Roadrunner auto, wasn't worth the money spent. Would be really cool behind a 4 speed, but again, not in the budget. And no, I won't use any late model or aftermarket 5 or 6 speeds, I do have a vendor that will get me a great deal on an OD though. We will see how much my bonus at work is on Tuesday.

 

Loving this thread. Thumbs up!

 

Link is no good. Great build.

 

Here's a new video

 

Great build and good reading. I like the KW shifterball

 

Question will you build me a teat stand lol

 

Not having much luck posting a video

 

 

Wow.

 

Thanks for the update. Very impressive.

 

I like that. "Let's see if it'll start up" and then a couple of seconds later it's running super smooth. Nice work.

 

Nice.

 

Doing a power steering pump upgrade and waiting on a reservoir. Took my work bonus and just ordered a Gear Vendors for my Muncie, that will eliminate the 63" driveshaft that I was going to need without it. The vendor I bought my last GVOD from gave me the same deal as he did 7 years ago for my Roadrunner. It will give me 6 speeds that I can use. I talked to a guy that has 2 of them behind Muncies and he's said it was one of the sweetest secrets out there. And it was still about 1000.00 cheaper than buying an actual 6 speed.Old engine is coming out as soon as I got everything ready. I want minimal down time so I can be driving it this summer. Also will be adding AC so I have a lot of work to do.

 

Very nice, sweet video. Bet you can't wait to drop it in there and give it some exercise. I can see the grin on your face now as soon as you plant your right foot down.

 

Awesome thread.