Ok, so I'm knee-deep in my '70 convertible project and looking for parts constantly. Usually go used or some I have to ask, how are some people even affording parts? I do alright, but my jaw hits the floor when I see the "asking" price of some of them, I know supply/demand, but good Lord! $6500 for an w/posi? $2000-$3000 for a carb? Trying to keep these cars close(not even 100% or near) to orginal is getting to be a rich person's game only.

I bought a new Thornton hood when my old one wasn't with the car, and based on the used ($1500 starting with need of lots of work) or a NOS($$$$$), the $2500 seems like a screaming deal for parts that fit and look right. How are you guys doing it? Thanks for the replies

 

Little bit here and a little bit there, I am just over 13k in about a year and a half - chassis is done, be about another 3k by my estimate to finish the motor. I am not doing a 100% stock rebuild, I am having fun! My SOP is to be organized, shop around and then shop around again to get the next projects parts in hand. This also helps keep me motivated- I see the new parts sitting there ( pistons and rods recently) and it gets me excited to keep the progress progressing. Luckily I am now only ankle deep in my project I can't wait to get it back on the road......

 

I've a '68 442. Like you, I about choked when researching parts and prices. That must have been SOME posi for $6500! Over time, using http://www.searchtempest.com/, I came across a lonely carrier (casting #588) for $300 plus shipping. It was virtually NIB, having sat on a garage shelf for nearly 30 years. Sure looks NIB on MY shelf, too :-) THEN the search turned to gears to fit it. Finally located NIB 3.42:1 R&P Richmond gears at Mondello - $600! But I had spent nearly six months coming up empty. NOW I hear that Richmond is gearing up for a new production run of the gears to fit this carrier (numerically high ratios). Of course the innards won't match the code on the axle shaft, but it will be an OEM carrier with aftermarket gears. I bought the car three years ago, slowly tearing it down in the meantime, and now have nearly all the parts for the rebuild. Can't wait for Summer evenings in the garage!

 

Yeah, it's a real W-27 axle. Lesser Type O axles run in the $500-800 range for a complete anti-spin axle.

Once again, however, do not confuse asking price with selling price. We just had a thread about the $1999 67 442 hood, which now didn't sell at $1199. Just because someone thinks their stuff is made of gold doesn't mean anyone else does.

 

That is why matching #'s has jumped the shark IMO. Spending that kind of $$ just so I can say I have the correct 1970 this or that has no allure for me. I can see if you have a truly special car like a W30 four speed convertible but otherwise it isn't for me. That being said, its just one man's opinion and other's are free to feel differently.

As far as shopping, be diligent in your approach and keep an eye out for parts you don't need now but will later. Keep checking CList & EBay for good deals & be creative in your approach to searches. When I bought my hood the guy had it listed for a Rally 350 (sic) but didn't mention 442 or Cutlass in the ad. That allowed me to scoop it up for $350. It needed to be restored but that was still a good deal IMO.

 

I'm taking a slow stedy approach. With a daughter in college large purchases are not in the budget. It will be awhile before it is pretty but I can still drive it. The best thing I did was hang a sign in the garage that says"THIS PROJECT IS 3 YEARS AHEAD OF SCHEDULE" it keeps things in prespective and keeps me from getting down or overwhelmed.

Larry

 

slow and steady for me too. only getting what I have to and definitely, I mean, definitely, not a frame off. also, not worried about staying close to OEM. just get what I can afford and good quality aftermarket stuff.

 

Going slow and steady here, too. Got all underhood brackets coming from Oldspackrat, picked up some interior pieces from ebay, got dash from a guy in the area here. It just scares a (normal) guy sometimes to see what people "want" for things. Thornton hood has me pumped. Talked with Troy last week before the order went in and he had the same car I have(only his is bucket/console/8-track car) going through Barrett-Jackson(again $$$$$$$$$), wonder what it will do. If you fancy it's lot #748 going on Saturday. Sebring Yellow auto converible, like mine.

 

to steal the handle from a buddy on ROP ..


" Personally I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. " ....

My car was built by GM the first time when new - it's not new anymore
and I'm not the original owner... I am the owner now and I re-built it to
have fun with it best I can while I have the opportunity to do so.. I doubt
there are too many others that can say they have more fun with theirs than I do ..... To each his own --- Happy Oldsmobiling to all - whichever way your interests lean with your Olds.

 

Don't over spend on parts, if you are looking for numbers matching parts take your time and don't over pay. A lot of parts are the same from cutlass to 442. Parts cars are a gold mines for saving money and reselling parts that you do not need or want to cover the cost of the parts car. If you buy the right car at the right price you can get your parts for free with profit. When I was first restoring muscle cars you could not get original seat material so we wood have to find back seats that were mint and take them apart and use them on the front seats. The back rest were the best to use, the covers were taken to a quality trim shop that would turn them into bucket or bench seat covers. You could not tell that they were not factory original seats.

 

Is your car running a 400G block or a 455

 

One thing to keep in perspective is some of the expensive parts noted are among the rarest & most sought after limited production pieces & pricing reflects that. For someone faithfully restoring a car that needs a certain part w/ a date code in a particular range it's worth it to ensure car is valuable. There are rather few W-31 carbs or W-27 rears available, especially in top condition or NOS. One of those $6500 axles plays a roll turning a currently mentioned $75-125k W-30 into a $300k+ auction piece only to be exposed as a probable fraud. Actual value is determined by the buyer.

 

was numbers matching G - 400 when I acquired the car. Within 2 yrs
pulled that and built a 455 short block and never looked back . The 400 short block is wrapped up on a cradle in the garage.

rgds
Rob

 

Be patient. My engine is 2 yrs behind schedule and it's not done yet. I keep searching for a good deal and jump on it when i find one.

 

Another idea is when you are looking for parts for your build look out for good deals on parts you don't need & can resell. A little here & a little there adds up. Especially if you hit up swap meets. Some guys throw it down on an old blanket and don't know what they have. Bring a Smart phone and google part #'s. A friend of mine got two quadrajets for $50 ea and turned them into $350 selling them as cores.

 

"Once again, however, do not confuse asking price with selling price. "

Ah, like the bubes' $18,000 crusty W27 assm. at the Homecoming.
That says "I don't want to sell, but if it's worth that to you, I will sell it."

Put out WANTED ads rather than go after FOR SALE ads?
That might bring motivated sellers.
Requests here and at ROP for L69 intake blockoffs got zero reply. Craigslist ad found me the one guy in Lansing with 2 of them he had no use for, and the $100 offer made him happy.

Ask everyone- network it. I got an intake recently out of a phone call from a guy seeking a hot air tube. Fortuitous.

At the swap meet, wear a sign or short listing your needs.
I got a car once [68 442] because the owner overheard me asking for '67 Cutlass trims.

 

Actually, I always figured the insane asking prices were for the wife's benefit.

"See honey, I TRIED to sell it, but no one was interested..."

 

Ha! Thanks for the responses, guys. Builds get a little daunting when you start to put "the list" together. had the car for over 8 years now and finally getting more parts assembled. Always appreciate the info here.

 

The best thing to do if you can is to find a similar parts car or 4dr for little $$ and take what you need then sell the rest. You can usually end up with the parts you need for nothing or make a slight profit. I have tried to be helpful when I sell parts over the years taking into consideration relative value and what my cost was and usually sell for bargain prices. I do see lots of guys trying to maximize profit with an attitude of, I got it, you need it, here is my price. I rarely make deals with these sellers and a few I have avoided completely and will never purchase from.

 

Like others, a little at a time...until I win the lottery.

 

I'm finding a few things that are interchangeable with other models, and sedans yet so many that aren't. Lots of unique pieces when you start getting specific. Fortunately, the repro stuff is out there if it's really tough to find, but balance quality with price. Finding that lots on the board here have helped me stay away from some questionable vendors out there.

 

It's a lot of fun but also a big hassle at the same time. I have a decent driver 71 Cutlass convertible and a ratty beater 70 Vista Cruiser. When I see something I want for these cars it depends which one I want it for, and then again there is the guy out there that needs the same part for his W-30 convertible. So what the part is worth depends on who is buying it. Sometimes you can buy old used parts really cheap which is good for my VC. I hate it when I get the evil eye when I ask about a part and don't buy it because it is premo and has a premo price. Whats worse is when you are asked to make a offer and you **** the seller right off!!!

 

Keep plugging away. I've got smallest budget of about anyone here but I keep it moving. I made my list and buy what I can when I can but like has been said if you find a good deal even if you don't need it yet buy it. I have a rear spoiler, a headliner, rear shelf, and all weatherstrip all new in boxes cost me total of $275. Not that I'll need them for a while yet. I've almost got the motor back together now after being pulled out of car and tore down 2 years ago. I've had it almost five years now. Now all I have left is to get a Carb and see if I can trade a set of big block headers for a small block set and drop distributor in and get to the fun part after trans is rebuilt. This summer as long as its running I'm taking it to Syracuse Nationals just cause I can..... if I can do it on my budget.....so can you. Build it how you want it and enjoy!

 

I know its insane. I usually fund my builds with buying parts and parts cars and selling. Always wheeling a dealing. Wish I was rich and can go to mecum and just raise my hand, but then again that takes all the fun out of building them, finding the hard stuff and fixing restoring stuff. I remember when all we had was the paper, word of mouth and hemmings. So sites like this and the internet have made things alot easier but consequently more expensive. Every now and then you will get a score, like a cutlass with D heads or with a W30 carb on her. But its getting harder and harder.

 

same here, buying and selling parts is how i do it too. don't feel like the lone ranger...my budget is basically: none. gonna take awhile to get ours done, but then, we are not on any kind of time frame so that is the one thing we can arrord....to wait.

 

Well, big chunk(both in size and cost) of the project showed up today. Thornton hood arrived at my family's garage(not a professional garage mind you) today. My dad's words while pulling it out of the box to check it out "WOW! This thing looks amazing!". Can't wait to drive down there and get going on it again.

 

I bought a rust free unmolested Plain Jane 65 Cutlass hardtop with and almost perfect interior to begin with, I kept everything original except the engine and transmission, that saved a lot of money.
I work 1-2 extra jobs just for money to spend on the car, parts are ridiculous, this winter I spent over $500 for a new radiator, $600 to totally rebuild the power steering, over $1200 to sound deaden the car add carpet rebuild the front seats and put in a stock looking stereo, $200 on an original clutch fan, $200 on an original HD W/air water pump. So doing all the work myself I still have over $20,000 in my car and still spending like a drunken sailer.

 

Just chippng way seems like many of us "normal folk" paths. Just worried I'll end up finding the perfect Cutlass Supreme project before the 442 is done. So far, doing alright.

 

I save fifty bucks a check and save tell I have enough for what's on my list .
Also have bought some things I needed and acquired a few I didn't and have sold those off to help soften the blow .

Recently I sold a car I got cheap and fixed as a good driver witch bought my control arms and brake kits

Just good planning patients and luck and you can do it .

There have been times parts come up that are way down on the list but I grab cause there cheap