cdrod

I'm restoring a '72 convertible, and the more I disassemble the car the worst it gets! I think it's a 442 (can't really tell from the VIN in '72 and no build sheet). It has the hood louvers, and the LH fender was drilled for the numbers, RH side was bondo'd over. I dropped the gas tank looking for a build sheet - no such luck. It is a Lansing-built car, I think all the 442s were built in Lansing so I took this as a good sign. I knew going in that the car needed floor pans and rear quarters and I had a front clip to take care of the collision damage to the front end.
Here's my dilema: the LH rear inner quarter is completely rusted out by the brace (as in, no metal remaining), the rear quarter braces are pretty bad too, and the latest discovery is the folding top mounts are rusted through in several places. The mounts seem to be structurally sound but there is obvious rust-thru, especially on the LH side. I'm also wondering if the frame may be bent as LH frame horn (in front of the steering gear box) is folded over a bit.
I've done a few "frame-on" restoration jobs but this is the biggest project I've ever done and my first "frame-off". Is this car worth the effort or should I use this one for parts and look for a less difficult project? I would be more inclined to keep going if this was a documented 442.

72notchback

I know not many will agree with me but I say save it. If you can weld i would start on the less seen parts and by time you made it to the noticeable parts you will be a skilled pro. Good luck

ziff396

I would say that car would be an exellent place to practice welding on but thats about it. There is going to be even more rust as you proceed further. With the costs involved, since it's not documented, I would look for another and use or sell the parts off this one. Then there is the possible (most likely) frame issue. JMO

compedgemarine

several things would decide it for me. first have the frame checked. if it is good are easily fixed then move to the next thing. are you looking to build it to resell? if so this is not the car. want to build something fun to drive and not worried about every little detail? go for it. floors are not that bad to do. the other issues are hidden so if you dont get them exact and perfect who would know? they just need to be strong. you can do what you want with the car engine, trans, suspension, etc and have a fun drop top.

dc2x4drvr

Not worth the time and money IMHO, kiss it goodby. Checkout posts from Costpenn, he spent big bucks to bring back a rusty vert.

chrisneu68olds

Yuck! I think that ziff396 is right.

Take it apart, part it out and find another candidate.

cdrod

Thanks for the feedback. Here's a pic of the frame horn. It doesn't look too bad but the bumper bracket was bent nearly 45 degrees to the RH side of the car. Can someone provide some dimensions and measurement points that I can use to check if the frame is bent? I remember in the chassis manual it describes how to measure across the diagonals and the measurements should be the same, but I was kinda hoping I could check it without removing the body. The frame looks very solid (it's a Texas car) no major rot, even the top of the cowl under the windshield is solid with only 2 small pin holes.

MDchanic

I'll just chime in to agree with Ziff, et. al.

If you enjoy metal work and this would be fun and relaxing for you, then, sure, have a good time and fix it up.

If you are considering making any money at all on it, Stop, Do not pass GO, Do not collect $200.
You will spend lots of money on this car, but you will make none.

Structurally, though, it looks salvageable, if that's what you like doing.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

Looks like a project for sure. However, floorpan rust is common. Lots of people have replaced the metal under the windshield. Yours is noce to not have much issue there, but rather rust in other places.
If you like welding or wish to learm this might be a good project for someone to keep for fun.

Look for factory boxed control arms and rear sway bar. Should look as rusty as the rest of the car. If you have those, the chances of it being a real 442 is higher.

ah64pilot

cdrod what part of Houston are you in? I'm in the Humble area...check your pm's.

It will cost you less in the long run to buy a nice car rather than build a nice car. This car is going to need a lot to salvage it. You might be better off spending $10K on a driver quality convertible and starting from there. It doesn't take long to sink $20k into a FREE '72 Supreme that was nice to begin with and STILL not be finished (see silver car in signature). I can only imagine what it would cost to bring the car you're restoring back from the grave...good luck whatever you decide!

zodiacblueS

It looks to me like your letting your heart instead of your head make the decision. One of the greatest assets of this forum is the experiences of others in similar situations. Listen to the pilot. For 10K there are some nice 442's available, and it looks to me like you'll spend more than that just to get it driving. You didn't mention the engine, but if it is anything like the body, beware.

But then again, this hobby has never been very cost effective.

oldspackrat

If it is a 442, it should have the FE2 suspension. That meant the front sway bar was specific & is identifiable by a pointed tip or nipple on the passenger side. If it has that, it may have the 442 option on top of the Cutlass convertible option. That being said, it will be a large investment of both time & money. I have the part where the convertible top mounts off of a couple donor cars in good condition if you do end up keeping it.
Good luck either way.

Lady72nRob71

All Supreme convertibles got that front bar according to the assy manual. For coupes it came with the FE2 package.

oldspackrat

Rob,
Thanks, I learn something new every day.

allyolds68

Walk away. Use it for a parts car. You live in an area of the country where you can find a much nicer body for cheap $$$

Dave Siltman

Listen to the others here that say STOP!!! You can restore anything with the proper time, tools, knowledge, and yes, last of all MONEY. You will end up so far up-side-down it may tarnish your outlook on collector cars. Save yourself the headaches and buy a nice car and enjoy it. You will be ahead of the "game" financially and will have fun driving instead of working. The "seasoned veterans" here (myself included for sure) have all been where you are now---and we've all at on time or another bit off more than we can chew.
If you WANT to learn how to do some of the work such as welding, metal work, and the paint process then maybe this car will be a good one for those purposes---but don't expect to recoup your money, much less your blood, sweat, and tears.

Majic Jack

Too far gone, twenty grand will go in a heart beat and three times that in time, labor and heartache. I have learned that valuable lesson the hard way twice. I am much wiser now as my most recent acquisition was a 1970 Supreme, one owner, with less than major repair issues. Paid more but worth it. The measure to consider is how much you do no have to do.

cdrod

Thanks for all of your comments/opinions/warnings about my current project. I've been taking in all of your wise counsel and your advice has weakened my resolve to keep going (even though I know it's a fool's errand to put so much time and money into such a lost cause, I really don't like to quit). The good new is I can part out some of the better pieces and recoup most of my initial investment, although probably not all of the individual parts I've purchased over these past 5 months. And more good news.
I may have found a better candidate for my restoration jones. I've found a '72 ragtop that looks very solid, but it's in Kentucky and I'm in Houston, TX. What does it cost to ship a car and can anyone recommend an good carrier?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oldsm...item2578a63394

allyolds68

Take your time and find a cleaner one closer to you. That one needs a lot of work too. You live in an ideal area of the country to find something with little rust.

Allan R

The others have suggested a better course of action for you. Don't be in a big hurry to spend $$ right now on a 'maybe' project. Spend some time looking - spending 5-8K on a good project could very well end up saving you 10-15K in the long run.

In the meantime - cut all the salvageable stuff off that car and sell it. Hint - the front cowl is often in demand for cars that have theirs totally rotted out (the piece from the firewall all the way back to the dash pad. Other than that I don't see a lot on that project car of yours really worth keeping.

allyolds68

Almost done, 35 miles away in Richmond Texas:

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=83363

Allan R

Mike - Nice car. Do you know him? I spent a good 1/2 hour just looking at those pics. Lots of work done there and it shows really well. At 15K it should be gone in a hurry. Still lots to do on it though.

Not sure why he's disappointed with the paint - 2 small polishing burns was all I could see.

allyolds68

I don't know him. He doesn't post much on ROP anymore

Octania

Similar car, $11k, done and ready right now

1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible

The '72 can't be PROVEN to be a 442, so it might as well be a Cutlass

The '68 *is* a Cutlass, so you can enjoy the SB or make it into a 442-like vehicle with the pcs from the rusted out '72.

cdrod

After much soul-searching, I've decided to part-out the '72 cutlass convertible. There's just too much rust repair in places that would be difficult to repair. I've found substantial rust at the convertible top body mounts and the inner quarter body braces. The good news is there are enough good parts on the car that I think I can recoup my initial investment... if I stop now and sell off the pieces. I'll be posting a list of parts in the coming weeks. Thanks to everyone on CO for the good advice!

Allan R

It's always hard to let go of a dream. Before you part it out and sell off any inventory why not look around for another 71/72 vert in better shape? They seem to be springing up out of the woodwork lately.

I know we pretty much all suggested you not proceed on the current project simply because of the extent of the repairs and $$$ it would take. We were not suggesting walking away from a good vert or hardtop Olds project though.

cdrod

Allan:
I'm not giving up completely - just giving up on this car. I've got my eye on 2 possible candidates (hopefully in better shape than the current car).

Allan R

I'd hold onto the good parts for a bit unless you're strapped, but send the scrap to the crusher.