My 71 has the exact same space like that. I messed with mine as well. I even put a core support in and it's the same! Your car looks great! I don't have my 71 out of storage but I have my 70 to drive so I can deal for now.

 

It occurred to me that the fenders might be spaced too far from the firewall, in turn pushing the front clip forward and thus the upper leading edge down, but I'm pretty sure there aren't any spacers between firewall and fenders to begin with. Charm indeed.

Having that 70 is a blessing and a curse, I bet - wonderful to drive around, but cutting down badly on the incentive to get working on the '71, yes?

 

Wow , Great Job ! You came a long ways to get here , and now you can enjoy it . I'm need to get my lazy **** going and start doing some work on mine .

 

It's all about getting some work done. I've done roughly 1000 hours, by my estimates.

 

Anyone know if a buick flywheel from a 350 will work on my Olds 350? How about the Buick flexplate on my AT flywheel?

 

Seff
I dont think so but you could check with part suppliers and see if they are the same part number

 

Yeah, I kinda got the same impression, but this environment has surprised me in the past.

 

my motor guy said he thought they are balanced differant

 

I'll have to check and see if the flexplate will transfer, then. Appreciate the trouble you went through to find out. :O

 

He checked it out and the centerhole and bolt patterns are diff Im sure someone on this site must have one they are willing to part with.

 

If I can't find one over here, then that's what I'll have to do.

Thanks again.

 

I read his e-mail again and noticed that it's a "Centerforce Dual Friction 10,5”", which according to Summit is a 10.4" and SHOULD fit my car. Then I only need the trans, pedals, linkage, flexplate, driveshaft and all the rest.

 

Seff
Im confused what are you trying to do with your car? are you wanting to turn it into a standard trans? If so you will need a flywheel not a flexplate and yes you will need all the other stuff too you may also want to change out the steering column too or unhook the wire for the neutral saftey switch and the mount for the shifter arm wont look so good but if you dont mind thats cool. std trans are alot of fun but autos perform pretty well too with the right stall converter and gears. I would stay with the auto unless you have all the parts lined up for the swap. The frame on a std has the fork on it for the clutch linkage it maybe welded or bolted on. then you will need the ball that screws into the block and dont forget the pilot bush or bearing in the rear of the crankshaft. You may have to have a longer speedo cable for the std tranny because the hookup is on the other side as the auto. It can be done just make sure you have all these things lined up and it will make your life alot easier on this project

 

The car is running and complete with the '71 engine and TH350 behind it now. This takes the weight of anticipation off my shoulders, allowing me to work on the '72 engine that was gone over by the machine shop, including a three angle valve job, crank drilled for the pilot bearing, and a 0.040" overbore. I have '70 7cc dish piston heads for it, as well as this Howards cam, waiting for a replacement piston to come in before I continue too much of the assembly.
The plan is to source a TKO-5/600 and put it behind the rebuilt '72 engine, clutch and all, before I even think to taking the '71 drivetrain out of the car, including the pedals and so forth. I'm at the point where I see what I can stamp out of the ground in DK, before I start shipping it in.

I've seen pictures of the frame mount, but not the ball that screws into the block. Anybody got a picture?

 

Anyone know what to do about this? :P

KUPlD.jpg

 

Well I'm going through the same thing pretty much . I'm going to fix eventually , but it's either the spacers/shims in the wrong place or a worn out hinge ? My panels are not lining up that great , but I figured it was because I bolted the radiator core support down tight prior to lining everything up correctly . I had a garage take liberty on themselves to adjust my hood so it opened and closed/lined up better . I was stoked about that when I picked the car up .

 

I'm leaving it for now, on the basis of being too busy actually DRIVING the damn thing for once. :P Finally got my plates, so I'm cruisin' for all it's worth.

 

Wow man, you did an amazing job in such a short amount of time. Makes my project look like a cakewalk! I must know what paint that is on your car. I have been back and forth about paint but I absolutely love that color

 

Thank you for the comments, I sure had fun doing it. Next up is installing the Accel EFI I got second-hand for 40% the original price. Never been used.

I'll see if I can find the color for you. It's some kind of Toyota green, believe it or not. I'm having trouble finding it again, though.

 

just found your thread-followed it from the begining-Great job!!! A GIGANTIC undertaking-especially doing a American car in Denmark. Congratatulations and thanks for sharing.

 

Thanks, and you're welcome.

General: I've yet to find the paint code.

 

PEg7h.jpg

Can anyone guess what I'm working on? :P

 

Is that a Carburetor to Fuel injection conversion?

 

It sure is. Got it cheap, for a SBC. Converting it slowly to fit my SBO.

 

Seff, I have read through your project, and am totally enthralled by the story, and what you have gone through to get the car into the condition it is in now. That is dedication. Very good for you. So you too have to deal with road salt? I hope the car stays off the road when the salt is used! Howie.

 

I wash it under the bottom when I can. At the base I have free access to a place where I can do it for free. No biggie.

 

Well that is good you have access at the base to the power washers, and can keep the car clean underside. I remember years ago living in Quebec, Canada, the tons of salt put on the roads, It took all I could muster to keep my, at the time. '70 Vista Cruiser in one piece. The salt finally won, Sigh. So this new one, never tasting salt as far as I know, stays on a salt free diet! The fuel injection setup looks very interesting. Hmm.

 

As it is now, I'm fitting it to the stock intake. An interesting endeavor, to say the least, but it means I have something to do over the holidays. :P

Power washer and a good coat of paint under the bottom goes a long way. As soon as the roads are reasonably clean I'll get a serious layer of undercoating.

 

The set should swap right over, as the Oldsmobile and Chevy used roughly the same type of original Quadrajet, at least the base part, so it will be an interesting project. I'll be helping a friend in the near future to put something similar onto his '72 Pontiac GTO.

Good paint does help on the chassis, one can't argue with this, and keeping corrosive chemicals washed away regularly helps much too. Undercoating on a clean surface will really help to seal the bottom. Just ensure it gets into all the box sections as well too Seff!

 

I'll do what I can, worry not. Haven't spent a thousand hours on this thing to let it revert into rust again. :P

The throttle body has a different bolt pattern than a q-jet, so I'm making an adapter plate, and adding injector holes (bungs?) to the intake.

 

Cheap Ford 10 spline TKO came up for sale, all that means is that I'd have to use a 10 spline clutch, yes?

 

Wow a lot of work accomplished here! Keep the pics and info coming. I am curious how that frame thing works out!

 

Right now it's working grand, but I haven't really looked at it since I assembled the car. Tell you what, I'll eyeball it tomorrow if I remember it. :P

 

Forgot to look at the frame. -.-

Can anyone tell me what this is from? I found it in the bag from the machine shop labeled "head pins" along with the four pins for heads. So far I have no clue where it goes, and there's only one. Shown beside a head pin for size comparison.
fksT2Js.jpg

 

Almost looks like pin to locate clutch pressure plate to flywheel which doesn't make sense or flexplate to flywheel in your case.

 

It has both me and my secret advisor stumped. As long as it doesn't have to do with the heads, I can feel safe having torqued those down.

On a related note, is it normal to have one head bolt with threads sticking up from the head? Don't think I have one of those on the '71 engine.

 

Yes, depending on options, there should be one or two head bolts with studs coming up from the hex, to attach brackets.

- Eric

 

Likely holds lower AC bracket on left side facing engine

 

That looks right. My car no longer has AC, so I can install it where I please I guess. Thanks. :P

 

Repainted the bezels to be 72-correct, then the grills looked boring, so I two-toned them.

QPnvuLT.jpg