'72 Cutlass Supreme Restoration
#1
'72 Cutlass Supreme Restoration
This is going to be a longg restoration. Money, time, space, etc. etc.
Some starter pics...
Sat here for a year after blowing the trans on the highway.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/P1000157.JPG)
Moved from spot above (pulled by rear bumper which was big mistake - you can see 1/4 damage in subsequent pics) and sat in this spot for over 5 years.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/P1010137.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/P1010133.JPG)
Some starter pics...
Sat here for a year after blowing the trans on the highway.
Moved from spot above (pulled by rear bumper which was big mistake - you can see 1/4 damage in subsequent pics) and sat in this spot for over 5 years.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
#2
Within the past week... some boring pics.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00781.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00782.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00783.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00784.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00785.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00789.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00792.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00793.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00794.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00795.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00798.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00799.JPG)
I am not sure how this rust hole happened. I blasted the core support and painted it a few times over the years. Rust always comes back though.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00787.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00800.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00801.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00802.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00805.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00806.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00808.JPG)
I am not sure how this rust hole happened. I blasted the core support and painted it a few times over the years. Rust always comes back though.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:44 PM.
#3
Looks pretty straight! I hope there's not too much rust under that vinyl top. I've had a couple cars that had very little rust except for under a vinyl top!
I think several of us can relate to limited time and money! Keep the pictures coming though so we can walk through the process with you![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
John
I think several of us can relate to limited time and money! Keep the pictures coming though so we can walk through the process with you
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
John
#4
I managed to get the pass. side fender off late tonight. It was not really fun. For one, either factory (or someone did it afterwards), but the bottom of the fender was welded to the rocker (about 4-5mm or so) I had to chisel it off.
It was also pretty nasty under the rocker trim, moisture and such, and the two bolts were very hard to get out. Bottom part of firewall is all rotted also. Will post more pics tomorrow. I am trying to salvage what I can and need (ie. front control arms, spindles, backing plates, caliper brackets, steering gear box, stuff like that - frame is toast - so is roof pretty much), and put on the new frame.
It was also pretty nasty under the rocker trim, moisture and such, and the two bolts were very hard to get out. Bottom part of firewall is all rotted also. Will post more pics tomorrow. I am trying to salvage what I can and need (ie. front control arms, spindles, backing plates, caliper brackets, steering gear box, stuff like that - frame is toast - so is roof pretty much), and put on the new frame.
#7
This will make a great car. I love 72 Supremes. I have had two of them. Just take you time, do it right and walk away sometimes when you get discouraged. I am not surprised by the rust under the vinyl top when you said it sat outside for 5 years. Keep us up to date.
#8
Thx. I am only giving the rust/roof etc. related issues every chance to be fixed b/c it was my grandmothers car. I have had it for 20 years now. If it were not sentimental, I would have scrapped it long ago, and looked for another shell (preferably a 442) instead.
#10
Hey,
Mine didn't happen overnight either.I just kept at it.If you need those front lower bodymount towers on the firewall,I should still have some.I had a few pairs that were real nice,and had the lower fender mounts on the sides.
Mine didn't happen overnight either.I just kept at it.If you need those front lower bodymount towers on the firewall,I should still have some.I had a few pairs that were real nice,and had the lower fender mounts on the sides.
#11
So this is the one you were talking with me about!
Looks like a good project - straight anyway. The roof will be challenging, but many have dealt with them.
Great before pictures and i do see some progress. It will be slow, but most are.
Keep up the good work and take breaks when needed.
The interior looks pretty good sans the carpet. Any monsters lurking about under there??
BTW, why the wheel spacers in the front?
Looks like a good project - straight anyway. The roof will be challenging, but many have dealt with them.
Great before pictures and i do see some progress. It will be slow, but most are.
Keep up the good work and take breaks when needed.
The interior looks pretty good sans the carpet. Any monsters lurking about under there??
BTW, why the wheel spacers in the front?
#13
Some more pics. In re to the front spacers, I had them on b/c the front tires would rub against things on the inside.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00811.JPG)
Rotted
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00812.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00814.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00816.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00817.JPG)
More rotted stuff. The bottom of the fender was rotted also, and also around the bottom edges underneath the trim molding. You can see the bolt/nut left still there on the bottom left. I also broke off the head of the bolt holding the fender when you open the door. Will have to drill the rest out.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00819.JPG)
Rotted
More rotted stuff. The bottom of the fender was rotted also, and also around the bottom edges underneath the trim molding. You can see the bolt/nut left still there on the bottom left. I also broke off the head of the bolt holding the fender when you open the door. Will have to drill the rest out.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:46 PM.
#14
Front end out today. All my wires although good 5 years ago were really bad after all that time sitting outside. Most were chewed away by critters. On a related note, how do the wire harness(es) pop off the firewall? Appears you have to pry it up?
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:46 PM.
#16
It is a southern frame that I got around 13 years ago from a local Olds guy. I had it blasted and primered. I then POR-15'ed it by brush shortly after (it was then that I realized just how nasty POR-15 was to the skin
) It then sat out in a backyard for those 13 years exposed to the sun. The POR-15 faded off completely (with the odd dull black spot still visible) and left the primer intact. Not a spot of rust came out during that time.
I then had a friend who works in a powdercoating shop do it again late last year. He zinced and powedercoated it (I am assuming it was dipped before hand but not 100% sure), then wrapped it up in certain sports so it wouldn't get all marked up during transport. When I get my stands/milk cartons to raise it up a bit, I will then remove the foam wrapping.
EDIT: Yes, it is a replacement
The one on the car is shot. I recall years ago when the frame completely broke in half on both sides under the rear wheel well. That was fun. Prob explains why the body is a bit out of whack/contour/alignment.
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I then had a friend who works in a powdercoating shop do it again late last year. He zinced and powedercoated it (I am assuming it was dipped before hand but not 100% sure), then wrapped it up in certain sports so it wouldn't get all marked up during transport. When I get my stands/milk cartons to raise it up a bit, I will then remove the foam wrapping.
EDIT: Yes, it is a replacement
![Wink](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Last edited by oldzy; September 18th, 2010 at 07:28 PM.
#18
Thx.
BTW, it has an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on there now. I will getting rid of it once the engine is pulled in case anyone is interested. One thing though... I could never get the one hole on the intake to line up with the A/C mounting bracket. I am putting a stock intake back on eventually.
BTW, it has an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on there now. I will getting rid of it once the engine is pulled in case anyone is interested. One thing though... I could never get the one hole on the intake to line up with the A/C mounting bracket. I am putting a stock intake back on eventually.
#20
Yow! Mucho rust...
You do have a challenge there, but you seem to have a good plan.
What are you going to do with the rusted body? Repair with repro parts or cut pieces from a donor car?
Keep the thread going!
Not sure how the harness disconnects - I could barely see mine way down there.
You do have a challenge there, but you seem to have a good plan.
What are you going to do with the rusted body? Repair with repro parts or cut pieces from a donor car?
Keep the thread going!
Not sure how the harness disconnects - I could barely see mine way down there.
#21
I knew my drivers side spindle would not be the greatest. Is it salvageable? The dark spots where the front/outer bearing goes are gouges.
The bearings I had on there were fine, and it seemed to ride ok the last time I changed them (about 17 years ago). I had to change them b/c one day on my way to work, there was a terribly horrifying grinding sound coming from the drivers side wheel. The bearing (can't recall if inner or outer was shot). I drove with that grinding sound for about 20 minutes.
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00843.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00844.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00845.JPG)
![](http://oldz442.com/images/misc/auto/olds/resto/DSC00846.JPG)
In to the rusted body, don't know yet. I would prefer original donor parts though. ie. an original roof.
The bearings I had on there were fine, and it seemed to ride ok the last time I changed them (about 17 years ago). I had to change them b/c one day on my way to work, there was a terribly horrifying grinding sound coming from the drivers side wheel. The bearing (can't recall if inner or outer was shot). I drove with that grinding sound for about 20 minutes.
In to the rusted body, don't know yet. I would prefer original donor parts though. ie. an original roof.
Last edited by oldzy; October 22nd, 2011 at 09:47 PM.
#25
I wanted to avoid Taiwan/Chinese or whatever made spindles though. I wonder how good/bad they are.
What about the front backing plate and caliper brackets? Should I just say fuggit and get Taiwanese made stuff b/c they are all new and shiny, and b/c I will unlikely use 14" rims?
What about the front backing plate and caliper brackets? Should I just say fuggit and get Taiwanese made stuff b/c they are all new and shiny, and b/c I will unlikely use 14" rims?
#26
I'd say stick to American made. I don't like telling people I have chinese parts on a classic oldsmobile. Just my opinion. Even though they're cheaper there's a reason for it.
I wanted to avoid Taiwan/Chinese or whatever made spindles though. I wonder how good/bad they are.
What about the front backing plate and caliper brackets? Should I just say fuggit and get Taiwanese made stuff b/c they are all new and shiny, and b/c I will unlikely use 14" rims?
What about the front backing plate and caliper brackets? Should I just say fuggit and get Taiwanese made stuff b/c they are all new and shiny, and b/c I will unlikely use 14" rims?
#27
ok, so I need a decent original drivers side spindle (not sure on pass side yet).
I also need a drivers side rear backing plate for my 8.5 10" corporate rear end. I screwed up one of the wheel cylinder mounting holes when I had to chisel the bolt off.
Who gots?
I also need a drivers side rear backing plate for my 8.5 10" corporate rear end. I screwed up one of the wheel cylinder mounting holes when I had to chisel the bolt off.
Who gots?
#29
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#30
Thx.
If I break the locking tab, does that pretty much mean I should start looking for another backing plate? The tab on the right is no where near the bolt head, it is just the left one that is really tight.
If I break the locking tab, does that pretty much mean I should start looking for another backing plate? The tab on the right is no where near the bolt head, it is just the left one that is really tight.
#33
Engine pulling question to all... a friend lent me one of those engine pulling brackets that mount to the same holes as the carb. I have an Edelbrock Performer alum. intake though. Can an engine/trans be safely lifted with an 'aluminum' intake?
#34
Also, how do I disconnect the power steering box shaft? There appears to be a 12-point head bolt holding it on?
EDIT: a 12-point 7/16" socket took it off easy.
EDIT: a 12-point 7/16" socket took it off easy.
Last edited by oldzy; September 27th, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
#35
My lower front control arms are being stubborn. I managed to get the nuts off, but I can't even knock the bolts out with a club hammer. Will have to heat up I guess.
I took the A/C stuff off the firewall. Nice n brand new looking Harrison decal underneath. I also noticed 'YY' in green on the firewall right underneath the A/C gasket seal thing. Any idea what it stands for? thx
I took the A/C stuff off the firewall. Nice n brand new looking Harrison decal underneath. I also noticed 'YY' in green on the firewall right underneath the A/C gasket seal thing. Any idea what it stands for? thx
#36
[/QUOTE]I took the A/C stuff off the firewall. Nice n brand new looking Harrison decal underneath. I also noticed 'YY' in green on the firewall right underneath the A/C gasket seal thing. Any idea what it stands for? thx[/QUOTE]
That's just an assembly line quality stamp.
#37
I got one bolt out. Two of the other bolts just 'spin' and the other won't budge yet.
One bolt is obviously stuck on the rubber bushing somewhere, since as I loosen it and let go... the ratchet springs back a bit. As for the other bolt that spins... the mounting part of the frame is warped outwards a bit, so the holes must be not be perfectly straight or something.. So I turn the bolt with a ratchet and bang on the threaded end with a club hammer at the same time... still nothing. Tons of fun.
One bolt is obviously stuck on the rubber bushing somewhere, since as I loosen it and let go... the ratchet springs back a bit. As for the other bolt that spins... the mounting part of the frame is warped outwards a bit, so the holes must be not be perfectly straight or something.. So I turn the bolt with a ratchet and bang on the threaded end with a club hammer at the same time... still nothing. Tons of fun.
#38
On a related note, my pass. side upper control arm had NO rubber bushings left at all. I always wondered why that side was noisy banging around (metal on metal sound). I assumed it was the fender b/c the lower bracket was loose. Must have been that way for many years.