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Last week I bought this 72 cutlass convertible. Finally got it into the garage. Took the core support off and boom! Is it me or is this frame severely bent?!
I’m literally standing right in front of it. Im
not sure what to do at this point. Any help. Suggestions. Please!
From the front horns? You will need to do some measuring , I’ll see if I can find the specs for you, frames can be straightened and worse case replaced all is not lost please explain your concerns better as was said hard to see what your referring too
Foushi:
Welcome to Classic Olds! I have the front end apart on my '72 442 convertible. My front frame horns measure 41 3/8" measured from outside to outside.
You can get a decent idea with a tape measure. First & foremost you should have a level surface to set the frame on jack stands (preferably a matching set of 4), you can’t base it off the suspension supporting things or a driveway with uneven pavement.
Set it on jack stands in CONSISTENT locations side to side & front to back. Make yourself diagrams of frame - looking down from top, then front & back. Front & back will be height measurements from the ground, the top view measurements will be ”X” measurements between common points (holes) available for both sides. For example measure right rad sppt hole to left shock absorber hole & then do the same measurement on opposite side. Measure from other symmetrical points along the frame, again using the “X” pattern. Try to be consistent between your measurements - tape measure angle, how it rides over obstructions, how it gets hooked in the holes, etc. An assistant that can do the placing of the tape measure “hook” would make things easier. Note each measurement on your diagrams, it won’t take long to see whether you have a problem or not. Measurements are ideally center to center hole measurements but you could go edge to edge on big holes. I would use a tolerance of +/- 1/4” to indicate whether you might have a problem. Your measurements are comparative, not trying to hit a number as you don’t have accurate datum points or heights.
THIS IS NOT THE MOST ACCURATE WAY TO DO THIS, BUT, it is a reasonable field method to see whether it needs additional and more accurate scrutiny at a frame or body shop. In most cases those shops will do largely the same thing described above but more accurately and can then follow through with realignment if necessary.
Yes. By looking at the front horns, it appeared to look a bit off. I will do measurements this evening and post pictures of my findings. My first build so bare with me
@Eddie Hansen Yes the suspension needs work. Purchased the vehicle with 3/4 tires flat. Passenger tire was faced inward while the driver tire “supposedly” straight. Per the previous owner car sat for a while. Sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 rims 2 days ago so hopefully I can get them off and really take a look at what’s going on.
@Eddie Hansen Yes the suspension needs work. Purchased the vehicle with 3/4 tires flat. Passenger tire was faced inward while the driver tire “supposedly” straight. Per the previous owner car sat for a while. Sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 rims 2 days ago so hopefully I can get them off and really take a look at what’s going on.
Eat your Wheaties Brother LOL.... sometimes them Lug Nuts Are stubborn !!
Sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 rims 2 days ago so hopefully I can get them off and really take a look at what’s going on.
I found that multiple applications of PB Blaster did the trick for some of the most stubborn bolts on my project. I also found that tightening the bolts just a little bit before attempting to loosen them and sometimes "rocking" back and forth i.e. tighten then loosen, tighten then loosen (just a little) Can get them to move without breaking.
Rodney
Got some work done on the vehicle today. Verified that the frame itself is actually bent on the drivers side.
Used a measuring tape to go straight across to give you guys an idea on how off that side really is.
Is it shorter by ~6” on the DS? Where did that length go? there must be a significant crumple somewhere. the frame doesnt appear to have much rust perhaps a donor piece could be spliced in. If not donor frames are availible.
Az chevs has some frame sections for sale in the classified section, if you can determine where yoursis damaged aside from the obvious frame horn mismatch
Good to know. Some day that may save me some embarrassment.
1962 was the last year that GM used LH threads on the LH side of the car, and that applies to the spindle nut as well as the lug nuts. I swapped out the LH thread wheel studs on my 62 wagon, but obviously the spindle nut is still LH thread.
Got some work done on the vehicle today. Verified that the frame itself is actually bent on the drivers side.
Used a measuring tape to go straight across to give you guys an idea on how off that side really is.
Foushi,
From the about picture, you can definitely tell the frame is severely bent. Is your plan to take the body off the frame. It is going to need a lot of work to repair it, may even be easier to find a replacement frame. Good Luck.
A competent frame shop can fix that with the above frame chart. If you get another frame, remember the convert frame has the additional supports welded into the frame. Also just an FYI, in NC when you buy a car from out of state that is older than 35 years (I believe it's 35 years), the DMV inspector must inspect it before it can be titled. This includes verifying the vin on the frame and other "hidden" spots. Not sure if your state is like that. Good luck with it whichever way you decide to go.