kitfoxdave

The tires (Cooper Cobra radials) are here, and I have the SSI wheels already... time to find someone to mount them without messing them up! Installing new shocks, adjusting the transmission, final hook ups and fill with fluid... Need to install engine harness as well...

Sampson

Hey Dave, what size are those Coopers? I bought 15 x 8 SSI's for my car and am trying to decide what tire to go with. I am thinking of 275/60 r 15's rear and 245/60 r 15's front. Love to see some pics when you get them on the car.

kitfoxdave

the tires are 245 60-15 on the front and 255 60-15 on the rear. Will post pictures within a week I hope!

kitfoxdave

Got the tires mounted today, sent out checks for new quarters, power windows, some sheet metal... Waiting for the Florida afternoon showers to calm down so I do NOT have to SWIM out to work on the car!

kitfoxdave

Did a few misc. things on the car over the past couple days... Got the ground wire hooked up for the fuel sender, got the air shocks on the rear... hooked up the vacuum to the distributer and brake booster, realized I had the vacuum reservoir on upside down... lots of piddly odd jobs. The transmission line flush kit should be in Friday afternoon, maybe get the transmission filled this weekend? and then the cooling system? then the wiring harness? and god forbid the old exhaust pipes... (temporary until this puppy runs!) Get battery to hook up for sparks... This is getting serious!

and BEST OF ALL! (drum roll please....) WELCOME BACK ALLEN R !

kitfoxdave

This is what the SSI's look like next to my rusty quarter panel...
On the back it looks like the tires will clear even with the 3/8 spacer ring.... (temporary solution until I can finish machining new rotors and caliper spacers...) Installing hoses of all kinds! and then the wiring.... I can almost smell the exhaust fumes! (I probably have done that TOO MANY times already!)

I am thinking it will look classy with the Nordic blue paint, white top, white and blue leather interior.... Ahhh to dream!

RetroRanger

Hey Dave love the ss1s, if you wanna see how they look w Nordic blue ship them up to me ill "break them in " for you.....hopefully ill have my engine back together before you get your car done...keep up the good work

kitfoxdave

Retro Ranger, thanks so much for your kind offer.... but I must politely decline... I will need these beauties on there so I can break in the engine and transmission, and put a bit of torque to the rear to validate that installation! and also review stopping capabilities with the rear discs installed....

I have been waiting MONTHS to put these on my motor!
I figured it might be a good advertisement for Mark (CutlassEFI)

check these out!

kitfoxdave

I did manage to make some progress today! The transmission lines and radiator hoses are hooked up. I can now start pouring the fluids in! There has been much discussion regarding the use of Distilled or tap water, I am going with the distilled water, as the tap water I have has some salt content (water softener) some residual calcium, and a little iron in it... for $4 it is worth it to me to keep the chemicals out... After reading Allen R's post regarding the torqueing of the rear suspension bolts after jacking up the pumpkin, I am going to loosen mine up and do the same thing. Allen thanks for your pointers, even if it does increase my workload!

Allan R

Umm, glad to be a pain....? The rear control arms actually need to be torqued with as much of the actual weight on the car you can get. The reason I did it that way in my thread is it's reasonable and my car is not drive able right now. As you probably found out, torquing the rear upper/lower CA bolts with no weight will make the car sit wrong and may also damage the bushing when weight and torque are applied at throttle.

re: trans lines. Just curious. Do you have a 2 row core or 3 row core?? I just recently found out the smaller 2 row core rad has different trans line locations (and different bend/length) trans lines to match.

I agree with your choice of water. For me the water up here is pretty decent. LOL I can take it right out of the refrigerator if I want - it has a filtering system built into it. Gotta love modern plumbing and technology.

kitfoxdave

Yeah mine is still in the air at the moment, but should be resting on terra firma in a few weeks I hope! (I will be making a side trip in my truck to Indianapolis soon for some sheet metal that I bought.)
I put in a 4 core radiator in mine. With the 380, I wanted the extra cooling, I may still need to add another cooler for the 200r4 transmission.... possibly a deeper pan...
We have to use a brita filter for good tasting water. It is great to have your input back! I really appreciate it Allen.

The Transmission lines are Stainless solid lines up to just past the front sway bar then transition into Stainless braided hose. (the return line is temporary installed with rubber hose and a filter for the first 300 miles per the Bowties Overdrive instructions.)

Allan R

What gears are you running with the overdrive trans? The 4 core should have plenty of cooling for that it. Generally the bigger the rad, the bigger the trans cooler. I guess you'll find out when you start driving it. That's the best test in the world.

kitfoxdave

This fellow has a 403 with a Bowties Overdrive behind it...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nning-hot.html

So I am going to keep a close eye on the temps.
Brian built up a nice posi rear for me with 3:42 gears... (should be a good combo with the 398 ft-lbs of torque!)

Allan R

Brian (Trick as in 507OLDS?) I think you'll be quite happy with his work and he has a great rep. The 200R4 is a good choice for that gear range too.

kitfoxdave

Mark (Cutlassefi) has a differnet ratio in his. We discussed it a bit and he recommended a 3:23 or 3:42 ratio for what I wanted to do. (cruising with some "pep" Hoping to see 20+ mpg on the highway. Mark gets about 22 with his EFI set up

kitfoxdave

Here are some pics of fuel lines SS from Inline Tube and tank install (Tanks Inc) Pad on top of tank is from Patton Glade

Transmission lines from Bowtie Overdrives (return line (rubber) is temporary with filter for first 300 miles)

kitfoxdave

My son helped out with all the soldering and heat shrink on the wiring harness. This is the Digitails kit for LED tail lights. Still need to redo the sockets for the License plate and back up lights, install the LED arrays and lenses...

The back of the bumper is painted with POR-15 to hopefully slow down the oxidation. (trying to get a few more years out of the bumpers!)

The Ugly exhaust will go back on for a short period of time... to be replaced by a 2-1/2" stainless exhaust.

Allan R

Looks good Dave!

I still have to put in my tank but have a question for you about the fuel hoses (to the vents on the tank and fuel sender). I was thinking it would be a better idea to attach a looonnger section of hose to the vents and sender, clamp them in place then lift the tank in and secure it. Then, trim the fuel hose lengths back to attach to those 3 vent lines to the canister. I still have my OEM fuel vent lines - just restored them as they looked almost perfect even after 41 years. That area of the car doesn't seem to get as much weathering.

Did Brian install the bushings in the diff housing for you as part of the package? Hope so as they are a royal pain. Well, one side is for sure. Impact driver made the work go easier. Makes you really appreciate how tough that steel is that makes up the housing.

Nice job on the brake light install. LOL if you need to replace the bumper, I have an OEM in next to new condition I took off my car. It was re-plated, but I'm changing to a cutout bumper/trumpet tips. Got everything ready to go there including the right hangers. I'll have an exhaust shop do the work unless I can get under the car to do the work myself.

I also am replacing my exhaust from the manifolds back. I already have 2 1/2" pipe but it's about 25 years old and needs some attention. Are you putting in a cross pipe or X pipe when you do your new duals?

kitfoxdave

Allan R; Looks good Dave!

Thanks, but no where near as pretty as yours!

I still have to put in my tank but have a question for you about the fuel hoses (to the vents on the tank and fuel sender). I was thinking it would be a better idea to attach a looonnger section of hose to the vents and sender, clamp them in place then lift the tank in and secure it. Then, trim the fuel hose lengths back to attach to those 3 vent lines to the canister. I still have my OEM fuel vent lines - just restored them as they looked almost perfect even after 41 years. That area of the car doesn't seem to get as much weathering.

What I did was put the vent lines (new, mine were not too bad, but MAW with stainless while doing the brake lines... WHERE is that helmet?) on the tank, yes they flop a bit... some masking tape can help that... put proper length pieces of hose on the vent tank assy tubes. I did use fuel line clamps although the original did not... did not want any drips... then worked the vent lines into the short pieces of hose. on the fuel line, I put hose on the fuel line (long) and cut it to match the sender outlet. it is kind of a PITA to trim the hoses if you leave them long on the vent tank, it was a bit of a reach for an old guy... I used the originals for a length guide.

Did Brian install the bushings in the diff housing for you as part of the package? Hope so as they are a royal pain. Well, one side is for sure. Impact driver made the work go easier. Makes you really appreciate how tough that steel is that makes up the housing.

There were no bushings in the differential. Yes they were a PITA!!!! I drew them in with 3/4" threaded rod and heavy washers and a pipe nipple... except THE ONE! you know the one I mean! no access! can't get anything completely around it! Cut some 3/4 birch plywood to nestle around most of the bushing and drew it in with 3/4 threaded rod like the others and impact wrench! Mine are the Energy Suspension urethane set. lots of funky grease on them! Oh, and the shell walls are THICKER!

Nice job on the brake light install. LOL if you need to replace the bumper, I have an OEM in next to new condition I took off my car. It was re-plated, but I'm changing to a cutout bumper/trumpet tips. Got everything ready to go there including the right hangers. I'll have an exhaust shop do the work unless I can get under the car to do the work myself.

When I replace the bumper in a few, I will probably do the cutouts and trumpets.

I also am replacing my exhaust from the manifolds back. I already have 2 1/2" pipe but it's about 25 years old and needs some attention. Are you putting in a cross pipe or X pipe when you do your new duals?

Undecided on the exhaust, might just do straight duals without x or h pipes... although H style are supposed to make more torque.... hmmmmm....

Allan R

You kill me Dave! An old guy...I know what that feels like, especially when I'm under the car and my back doesn't want to do what I tell it to....I still have all the original vent and fuel lines to use as templates. I read up on that before removing them. The instructions also said to cut the replacements just a bit longer than what was taken out (shrinkage??).

Those spring clamps are going back on my restoration. I cleaned mine up, but they are readily available from most automotive stores in the right sizes and colors. IMO the clamp isn't the problem, it's the line becoming brittle. I doubt even a fuel line clamp can protect against that. And FWIW, by the time another 42 years rolls around? I won't be here.....You noted that the vent lines on the canister don't have clamps?


Yes I know exactly which one you mean. It drew a few choice words from me. I used a 1/8" metal fence post cap as a backer on a ball joint press and then used my air impact to force that beeatch in. When I was done I had to beat on the plate to release it from the press, but it worked. Wonder who in heck designed that housing?[Quote]

I didn't know that. I put in an H crossover mostly to balance pressures

kitfoxdave

I have (2) 72 cutlasses (cutli?) and neither one of them had spring clamps on the short sections of hose where the vent lines tie into the canister vent lines under the trunk... I guess they figured it was not needed with just the vapors there... It seemed odd they did not have them though. (I had made the short pieces of hose up and then put them on, inadvertently got a longer one mixed with the shorter ones...I am still surprised I have fingers left after cutting the culprit hose with a single side razor blade with it almost in position!)

kitfoxdave

Put coolant in radiator and most of transmission fluid today. Progressing!

Allan R

That's why I don't use one in those tight spaces. There's plenty of room to use a tin cutter though! Nice straight cuts with no fuss or bother.

Just like these


Most of the trans fluid? Ah, you haven't started this beast yet. I lost close to 2 1/2 pints of AT fluid last year when I pulled the driveshaft.

kitfoxdave

Spent much of the day studying the Schematics and Assembly manual trying to figure out the engine compartment harnesses. Not much visible progress made. Hope to pick up some more stuff from Oldspackrat soon! (trying to get stuff ready ahead of time for the next phase... body work!) NOS quarters, under windshield cowl, power windows...maybe some side trim!

kitfoxdave

Back under the Cutlass today. Supported the back of the car on the rear end and torqued the Control arm bolts and nuts. Tomorrow I hope to get the Starter wiring sorted out. Getting close to back on wheels after a year off the ground!

Allan R

Dave, I hate to be a killjoy but IIRC torquing the control arms (55 ft/lbs?) is supposed to be done with the weight of the car on them, not while it's supported in the air.

Sampson

Allan, I think he is saying that he has a jack under the rear end which would be the same as having the weight of the car on the suspension. No?

kitfoxdave

Hey Allen, reading again thru the service manual after your comment, I find three different descriptions...

for the upper control arm: "torque nuts to specifications with cat resting at normal carrying height"
for the lower control arm: "torque arm attaching nuts to specifications with the weight of the car on the rear springs"
for the differential housing bushings: "torque nut to specifications with weight of car on wheels"

Since they are consistently inconsistent, I figured weight on the rear springs is the same as weight on the wheels. Buy supporting the rear end out by the lower control arm bushings, it is the same except the tires are not in the way... (I threw in a bag of mortar I had laying around into the trunk to make up the ride height for the spare and jack...) Should be close enough.... and the torque spec is 80 ft-lbs. I could not see this happening if I had to try to get under the car and torque this stuff at "normal ride height"! I would need to be road kill before I could slip my old carcass under there! Yeah I know it does not take into account the tire flexure... I'll know better when the weight is actually on the wheels... If it becomes an issue I will have to find a "pit" somewhere to do it...

Allan R

I also found that confusing Dave. I like that you added some weight to the trunk when torquing the rear.

Sounds like you and I share the same issue about clearance under the car. What I'm planning to do on my car is simply put the wheels back on and slide 2x12' chunks under the wheels till they touch and then lower the car onto them. That should still give me plenty of room to get under and do the torquing. I always leave jack stands under the frame as a safety precaution, but they would be just touching - not supporting the car.

I agree with your overall assessment. Should turn out ok. I didn't read carefully enough in your post. What I interpreted was you had the back of the car up on jacks, not the rear axle. Steve pointed out my misinterpretation too. Nice to see we're actually all on the same page!

My bad on the 55 ft/lbs - that was the upper shaft bolt torque on front suspension.

kitfoxdave

Well Allen, I think we all understand (kind of) what they were trying to accomplish... Sounds almost like that section of the manual was written by 3 different guys... after a couple hydraulic sandwiches... (a shot between two beers...)

Oh and I let most of the air out of the air shocks!

oldzzy

Nice! Your doing a good job Dave!

kitfoxdave

Today I got the starter re-installed... (I put it in without finish tightening the nuts on the wire terminals! ) Installed the new plug on the wiring harness for the updated brake proportioning valve. Reconfigured the wiring harness for the HEI distributer and installed the coil. Poured over the wiring diagrams several times! Still have a few more connections to make!
Bleeding the brakes is on the agenda (hopefully!) I still have to figure out wiring and switch mount for the 200R4 brake pedal interface... Hope to have weight on wheels by the end of September! Its been in the air for 1 year now...

Simple engine and transmission swap! How long could it take... while I am waiting for the engine I might as well.... and it should really have Posi rear with all that torque... right Allen? those MAW helmets just do not work!

Allan R

MAW helmets are for those who don't like a good adventure! What's another year when you're having fun? I just finished running my brake line from the prop valve to the rear hose so it's really close to the point where I can reinstall the fuel tank, lines and hoses and button up the rear with that new cutout bumper. Note: brake lines do not like to be finessed so you just have to be rude to them and put the bend you want where you want.

Keep up the great work Dave! I feel inspired by those ss lines!

My starter just needs to be assembled (new brushes, bushings - maybe a new bendix) and it's good to install too! Good thing I took lots of good pics before I took it out.

kitfoxdave

And I got some SS bolts today to put my exhaust back on the new manifolds... sticking the old rusty, filthy one back on temporary until I can get it roadable and drive it to an exhaust shop for the SS exhaust!
I love to see your "little side jobs" like the starter... Impressive! The one I have does not have the bolt hole for the heat shield support... the other 2 starters on the cars I have don't have the either... but they both had plenty of miles on them!

kitfoxdave

For those of you looking to install LED backup light bulbs in existing sockets:
The ones I got from Digi-tails DO NOT FIT in the old socket! The shoulder on the bulb assembly is about 1/16 too close to the male end of the bulb, and bottoms out before it engages the retention slot in the socket.

So after all the work I did to save the old sockets... I need to pull them out and replace with the newer style ones... (the rest of the harness has that style anyway...)

I was hoping to finish up the rear bumper this weekend... so much for that Idea!

Pulled more parts off the 4 door parts car. Engine should come out of it next weekend... and the dash pad and under dash plastic stuff then it is out of here! Looking forward to having some room to work again!

Sampson

[QUOTE=kitfoxdave;594140]The shoulder on the bulb assembly is about 1/16 too close to the male end of the bulb, and bottoms out before it engages the retention slot in the socket.

I had the same problem trying to install regular Sylvania 1157 bulbs in my stock sockets recently. I ended up having to file about 1/16 off the contacts on the bottom of the bulb to get them to work. What is up with that?.....

kitfoxdave

Installed the battery and finished hooking up the rear lights today, the Digi-tails LED set-up is MUCH brighter... they do NOT recommend using the diffusers... The picture does not have the diffusers installed. The brake lights are even brighter!

Turned the engine over today, and hope to get the ugly exhaust back in early, and then bleed the brakes, lower it down to the floor (been in the air for over a year!) Hope to fire it up!

Allan R

Wow, those are bright! I think I would put the diffusers back in just for that reason. BTW, my engine turned over just fine too! I was a little nervous about it since I also rebuilt the starter but didn't do a bench on it. Turned over just fine though! I'll be watching to see if you have the same issues with bleeding the brakes I did. Most of the problems were with the flare sitting properly on the nipple part of the lines, and of course a faulty center brake hose....

You putting the ugly exhaust on just till it gets to the shop? I'm planning to replace only the exhaust from the manifolds back to the mufflers, and then install the trumpets on the good rear exhaust. Might require a small cut/weld.

kitfoxdave

Yeah, the ugly exhaust will get me the 6 or 7 miles to the exhaust shop... (have to plan a new route though... a bunch of construction messing things up! I am still toying with the idea of the diffusers... not sure though.... The lights do not look as white in real life either.. something to do with the cell phone camera I think.

Allan R

Just a thought Dave, put diffusers on one side and see how it compares to the ones without?