From what I see they range between $15K for a really nice driver to $26K for a high quality restored one. The options have a good amount to do with it also. Most Rallye 350s were bench seat column shift. Mine is a 4 speed bucket car with the rally pack and posi originally.

 

Man, it's weird to think our cars are worth something eh?

I was reading a book about how GM built cars to be driven, get muddy and enjoyed, but GM never figured they'd be restored and kept forever. I found it really interesting.

 

got some parts back from Sparky's. Now that I have the upper A arm shafts I can put the front suspension together. Still have about 25 lbs of bolts and brackets he is doing.

 

I was looking at your build and was wondering if you could get me a measurement on your frame for the bodymount hole behind the front tires at the bend in the frame.Mine are rusted and I cant tell where to weld the new pieces in.I need to get the distance from the outside of the frame to the hole and maybe from the next hole back to the hole.thanks

 

Let the fun begin. I plan to take a half day off work tomorrow and get the front end together. I am still limited on how far I can go because I need more of my bolts back. I should still be able to get alot done without them.

 

Made some headway today. I don't like how it is turning out, it is to clean. I am never going to want to drive it and get it dirty.

 

Looks great. Nobody lives forever, make it nice then go drive it. And theres no rule saying you cant take it back apart and freshen it up in 10 years.

 

I know what you mean, I am in the same boat. I think I am going to have to force myself to drive mine.....but not if there is a cloud in the sky.

 

Eric,
Man that powder-coated frame and suspension looks great! I can't wait to get started rebuilding my own frame. Did you consider having the frame hot-dipped galvanized? I've heard of some guys (on the Chevelle forum) that have done this with their cars. Seems like it would provide better rust protection, the acid pre-wash would kill any rust inside the frame rails before the plating, and it costs less than $200. I'm counting $$ here, but not sure which way is better.
Rodney

 

I had not heard of people galvanizing the frame. I wouldn't have done it anyway. This car will not see bad weather so it is not likely to rust. I was majorly against powdercoat for years. I am still not sold on it. There are alot of things to consider with powder coat. You have to have someone that can sand blast the frame inside and out. If you don't kill all the rust it can grow under the powder coat and then all flake off. also the pitting in the frame is very visible after it is done. You have to fill the pitting with JB weld because filler will not survive the oven. You also have to remove the powder coat in areas like where the bushings press in. The plus side, Powder coat is cheaper than paint.

 

All those reasons are why I always use paint.

 

Started work on the under dash A/C unit. Does anyone know what to use for this seal that has deteriorated on the end of the defrost door? I think I will make a trip to the hardware store and see what I can find. At this time I am thinking foam filter material for a motorcycle air filter?

 

Eric,


Restoration looks spectacular.


Steve

 

check with Rob Young (lady72nRob71). He rebuilt his AC 2 years ago and I'm sure he covered that.

 

Everything is looking fantastic, I used this kit on mine.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cutlass-442-...7d9343&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks, Did it all fit and function good? I may just order a set.

 

Yes, it worked out good.

 

I just tried to buy one but he does not take paypal. I don't do anything on the net with a card so i may have to find another source. I thought you had to accept paypal as an option to sell on ebay.

 

I saw OPGI sells a similar or same kit I think it may be on sale too as i just got a new flyer and they may be where I saw it

http://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1972/coo...aters/CH17468/

http://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1972/coo...aters/CH17264/

 

looks fantastic!!
Charlie,,,

 

Just got the rally pack back. I sent them to Red Line in Tennessee.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Red-L...75729885809627

 

They look great! Does Redline repair the clock, or do they replace the old mechanism with digital works?

 

They can do either one. I had the original clock repaired. The digital conversion is cheaper.

 

They did a beautiful job on your gauges. Did you have to have any repairs done to the gauges or tach? My tach has stopped working altogether after a period of time when it would work for about a minute or two and then drop to zero. Do you think they would be able to fix it based on your experience?

 

They should be able to fix it. all of mine worked but looked bad and I was not sure the accuracy of the tach. I can't remember exactly but I think he said the tack can be anywhere from $100 to $190 depending what is wrong with it and what it needs. They also tighten up any loose pins and can even replace pins that are broken off the back of the gauges.

 

My machine shop called today. They have my engine parts ready. Looks like the engine build will come in under budget! I had hoped to not go over $6K and at this time I am under $5K but still have a dyno session ahead of me. My machine shop only charges $300 to tune it on the dyno when he does the machine work so i will still be under budget. I am including the carburetor being restored, harmonic balancer and water pump rebuilt, paint... among other things in the engine budget. That is why it looks a little high priced. It would be nice if the body and paint are under budget but it is not likely to happen.

For now I have the under dash A/C box finished and doors adjusted.

 

Isn't this FUN! Sure looks awesome Eric and the only way to go if you ask me. Takes longer but in the end well worth the extra steps and money!

 

Lots of fun! I am taking everything I don't like about what I did on my Rallye 350 and not making the same mistake on this one. When it is done, I will like the fact that every single nut, bolt, washer, and part will be the way I want it to be. The car will not be perfect and some things may not be "correct" but it will be as close as I am capable of.

 

I got the engine and parts back. I wanted to assemble the short block myself but he only wanted $175 to assemble it. Hard for me to mess with it for that much. He said that 7 pistons were .003 in the hole but one of them was .006 in the hole. He said there was a slight difference in one of the rods but was not really an issue. Only thing I noticed was that he had forgot to remove the two broke bolts. I have one broken bolt in each head. They are in accessory holes. I will have to remove them myself now.

 

eric what did he do with the hole that had .006 clearance, anything over .004 can cause piston slap. did he rebore it
just my experience in eng. rebuilding, ray

 

I was talking about deck height not bore.

 

if your engine guy is taking the time to check all the clearances that is a great deal and I would not mess with it either. btw I likey the h beams

 

I would bet that he did not check the clearances but that is just me talking. I think he designs the clearances into the machine work and then just assembles it. I could be wrong. I am going to pull a main cap and a rod cap just to see what they are. He told me what they were but i can't remember.

 

cheap insurance to check all clearances! done a few hi perf small blocks 400-650 hp sbc and I assy engine 3 times to check everthing! and I have a great machinest. I know its a little **** but better to find issues now before they find you on a more important note the car is coming along awesome!!!

 

Should be the last winter the body ever sees snow. I ran out of room and had to store the body outside. It should go to the body guy by February so can't do much damage in a month. I should have all my bolts back Thursday so now I can finish the chassis.

 

I got all my bolts, brackets, and springs back from Sparky's Carburetor service today. Much of my Chassis is held together by loose temporary bolts because I did not have these yet when I put it together. Some of the phosphate looks glossy but that is because he leaves the oil on them after he is done. That clears right up after sitting in the air for a while. Also a picture of the many differant bolt heads used on the same car. I sent him almost 50 lbs of brackets, bolts, washers, hood hinges and springs.

 

Sparky does Great Work! Just got my carb back this week and he has been restoring brackets, nuts, bolts and what nots for sometime now for me. Highly recommend his work to anyone. Your deep in to your restoration just like me Eric and it looks great so far.

 

I think I just returned your hood hinges to him. i got them by mistake and they are back with him. I've seen your "bucket of bolts" at his house

 

eric just spent two days on my computer reproducing my seat belt tags. will be trying to print them out in the next few days. I can print out an extra set for u if your tags are the same and u are in need of them just let me know. a set takes a total of 16 tags, 6 for the rear seat, 6 for the shoulder (4 numbered, 2 important), 2 for r hand lap, and 2 for l hand lap.
thanks ray

 

Nice work on those. Let me know, if mine do not clean up OK, whether you would be willing to sell me a set.

Thanks,

Joe