'68 442 project begins!

Old June 12th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Here is the latest. Seems the chassis was primed in an orange shade. Never have seen that before. Disc brakes and a suspension kit is next. Anyone have any "quick fixes" for prepping the metal for paint? I thought about sand blasting but am not thrilled about the mess? Wire brush on a drill? Or elbow grease and sand paper?

Craig
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Old June 12th, 2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Here is the latest. Seems the chassis was primed in an orange shade. Never have seen that before. Disc brakes and a suspension kit is next. Anyone have any "quick fixes" for prepping the metal for paint? I thought about sand blasting but am not thrilled about the mess? Wire brush on a drill? Or elbow grease and sand paper?

Craig
Craig I used a dewalt 41/2 inch grinder with some butfugly nasty rope wire wheels they screw right on the arbor get some cups and some wheels they work very well not sand blasting but it will teach that old paint the meaning of respect. I used por15 on my frame then while it was still slightly tacky sprayed it with GM restoration black which is just a semi gloss black, it is about 90 bucks a gallon is premixed etc, gun cleans with lacquer thinner you could do it with spray bombs too the por 15 lies down very nice

Whatever you do do not take the body off the chasis
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Old June 12th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Btw the GM black is good for the firewall too, you might as well paint that steering box it is like 3 bolts and The rag joint I have heard tell that a jeep'wagoneer box is a quick ratio and a near bolt in just sayin. Btw your lil one is as cute as a button. Mine just came home and made her old man a sandwich jeez whole wheat bread lawn clippings lol and apple slice on the side apparently she thinks a svelter ed will fit under the car better lol.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Eddie,

Man you are scaring me with all that garage talk... "rope wire wheels" "arbor" "por 15" man, too much estrogen in my life, I have lost touch with the lingo! I assume I can find all this paraphernalia at a paint prep store? I bought a quart of "under hood black" from eastwood it is semi gloss. I'm planning on shooting everything that doesn't move with it! Is pro 15 the black calking on everything on the firewall? I think I am going to stop at the Chassis! The car was "frame off-ed" in '89. I think It just needs a good cleaning! Once again 2x4 theory if anyone gets too close! I didn't get to the steering box yet, next on the schedule. I have seen the "quick box" advertised in OPGI's catalog and have thought about it. There I go again looking at catalogs. Is the box the same as the Jeep one?

My little one was sitting in the car with me tonight (she's 2 by the way) and I said "Do you like Daddy's car?" She said "YEAH... I want to drive it!" I think the brainwashing is working!

I know what you mean about the "health food" and getting under the car. Look on the bright side, you won't have to jack the car so high!

Craig
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Old June 13th, 2012, 07:32 AM
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Sorry.... :)

Craig Sorry man, I shouldn't have been so cryptic, OK rope style wire wheels look like this and are all available at home depot lowes, harbor freight etc, the Arbor is the threaded portion that is on the shaft of the grinder, you screw these on to the grinder after removing the disc etc ,





as for POR 15 it is a specialty coating, available at eastwood direct etc

http://www.por15.com/

as for the steering box I saw this posted in another thread, I am thinking about it, but I can always do this upgrade later

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...850#post837850


hope it helps bud


Last edited by Eddie Hansen; June 13th, 2012 at 07:35 AM.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 07:43 AM
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I see a lot of people recommending POR 15 & just would like to offer the following. If you plan to strip to bare metal the POR 15 will have nothing to bit into. POR 15 likes rusts. It encapsulates it and adheres to it.

POR 15 peals right off bare clean metal. The kid I bought my car from did a beautiful job cleaning the core support. This is what happened:

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Old June 13th, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Ally those wire wheels do not leave a "perfect" surface, they leave a pretty good scuff, I have Por 15 on my Chasis quite a few years now,albeit in the garage it looks like day one, I did spray it while it was tacky with GM restoration blaCK? I have been reading the issues with Por 15 I was planning on using it on the underside of my body, there are some rusty spots, no rust through or anything, just some scaling around the floor braces in the corners, I am worried now that the floor is all clean metal, with some all-metal filler, and some restogrip over some weld seams, that the Por -15 wont stick, that said I did brush some on in spots and reworked those areas and that stuff was very attached to the metal?

I did spray some areas with an etching primer if it was clean metal, but the por 15 clung to that too.....

is there a better product? I also don't know how shiney the semi gloss por -15 is, it is why I did not paint more of my floor to me it was too shiney in gloss black.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Ally is that clean metal under there? the pic kind of makes it look like there is still paint on it? Core supports also are subjected to a lot of oils etc ( not just grease), glycol, tranny fluids, maybe he didn't wipe it down with a grease remover/prep, I usually use lacquer thinner, or acetone.


By the way the thinner for POR 15 is Mostly Naptha, 7 dollars a quart at home depot as opposed to the Por 15 solvent. it is great for getting it off your hands...
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Old June 13th, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie Hansen View Post
Ally is that clean metal under there? the pic kind of makes it look like there is still paint on it?
It was the top of the core support and you can still see the wire wheel marks where he took most of the paint off. The metal was clean with no obvious contaminants.

I scuffed up the frame that he had painted with POR 15 and used a Chassis Black on it. It covered well and is holding up fine after two years.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68 View Post
It was the top of the core support and you can still see the wire wheel marks where he took most of the paint off. The metal was clean with no obvious contaminants.

I scuffed up the frame that he had painted with POR 15 and used a Chassis Black on it. It covered well and is holding up fine after two years.

thank you for the reply... I dunno what to say, I have had very good results but I know there have been people who have said as you have?
Geez.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 09:52 PM
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Eddie,

Thanks for the Info, I'm feeling more manly now! I have been looking for an excuse to by a grinder! Looks like a trip to my home away from home is in order... Home Depot!
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Old June 14th, 2012, 04:35 AM
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maybe no metal prep was used POR states metal prep is a must
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Old June 14th, 2012, 05:13 AM
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don't skimp

Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Eddie,

Thanks for the Info, I'm feeling more manly now! I have been looking for an excuse to by a grinder! Looks like a trip to my home away from home is in order... Home Depot!
Craig most welcome a 4 1/2 inch grinder is a very very useful tool it can grind, cut metal, wire wheel etc it will be used a lot so get a good one I have my dewalt several years now it never let's me down just saying.

Retroranger thanks for that insight as said I don't know what to think I have just used it on parts of the underside of the car (without) metal prep and when I am sanding or wire wheeling next to it it is on there like well like glue no peeling, etc I do wipe down the area with a strong spirit like acetone or lacquer thinner and wait till it dries I do brush it on as opposed
To spraying it . But I am very concerned now I have been working on the underside of my car for a couple of weeks now and I do not want to repeat this ugly job anytime soon

I am nearly at the point of completely bare metal just have the drier side rocker panel and two more weld seams to go
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Old June 14th, 2012, 05:17 AM
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oops

Don't know why it posted before I finished lol

As I was saying I am almost at the point of putting on the final coat of whatever and I want to be sure?

By the way has anyone used the por 15 semi gloss? How shiney is it charged to satin black?
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Old June 14th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Hi eddie

i used the POR15 semi gloss in most cases it needs two coats to meet the semi gloss standard, w 1 coat its closer to flat. When I used it I topcoated w POR15 chassis black and the finish after that was a perfect semi gloss sheen
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Old June 14th, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Thank you sir... Well I have had good sucess with the por 15, and has not failed so far so I will stick with it, I loved the putty which is like a seam sealer, but made of por 15 and I will top coat as well.... did you use any rubberized undercoating by the rockers? just thinking?

Sorry Craig didn't mean to get off topic on your thread bud.
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Old June 14th, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Hey, I love it! I'm learning stuff! I watched a youtube video on lizard skin anyone ever use it? Works as a sound deadener and heat shield
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Old June 15th, 2012, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Hey, I love it! I'm learning stuff! I watched a youtube video on lizard skin anyone ever use it? Works as a sound deadener and heat shield
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Old June 15th, 2012, 09:39 PM
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Well,

Got a 4 1/2" Dewalt grinder with a few wire wheels, gallons of degreaser a few nylon brushes and some elbow grease to start tackling the engine bay for painting. I bought some etching primer, I think I'm going to try on the chassis. It has some orange primer on it from the previous restoration. I'm going to try not to disturb it. I figured the etching primer will bite into it and create a good base.

I'm seriously thinking about the getdiscbrakes.com kit. Do you use your old spindles and steering arms?

Happy Weekend warrior-ing!

Craig
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Old June 16th, 2012, 04:50 AM
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FWIW
The etching primer is for bare metal. You'll just be wasting it in area that the paint is just scuffed up
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Old June 17th, 2012, 04:31 AM
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great...

I have to agree with ally on the primer , you will be very happy with the dealt it is a kick azz machine don't forget eye protection as I have seen wires from the bristles fly off . I would also wipe down the parts with a lacquer thinner, paint prep etc, after the degreaser
And happy fathers day
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Old June 19th, 2012, 07:10 AM
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Well the Grinder worked great! Wires and grease flying everywhere. Scared the kids when I went in to the house! I ground a few spots down to bare metal so the etching primer cant hurt! Happy belated fathers day to you!

Craig
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Old June 19th, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Well the Grinder worked great! Wires and grease flying everywhere. Scared the kids when I went in to the house!
Craig

Arrrgghhhh, Arrrrrggghhhh, Arrrrggghhhhhhh LOL More power



Sounds like your moving along.....
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Old June 19th, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Yep, just ordered some chassis black from eastwood for the frame and suspension. Went with the x2 stuff. cant get the ultra stuff in California! (Damn treehuggers!)

Did you convert your steering box to the jeep box? Is it a bolt in job or is it a lot of modifications? Can you use a stock pump with it?
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Old June 19th, 2012, 08:30 PM
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not yet

Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Yep, just ordered some chassis black from eastwood for the frame and suspension. Went with the x2 stuff. cant get the ultra stuff in California! (Damn treehuggers!)

Did you convert your steering box to the jeep box? Is it a bolt in job or is it a lot of modifications? Can you use a stock pump with it?
Not yet but I am very very seriously thinking about it I understand it is nearly a straight bolt in adapter for the column and a connector adapter for the stock pump hoses
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Old June 19th, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Maybe the steering arm too but from what I understand it is even a faster ratio then a fast ratio stocker
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Old June 20th, 2012, 05:38 PM
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The priming begins!

Well,

Got the crossmember primed. Ran out of time to do the firewall. (my 2 year old is napping and I'm Mr. mom while the wife is out. Can you say multi-task!)
Anyway here are a few shot of the progress! Got to be pretty boring for you all but I'm excited to be getting out to the grease and grime stage!

Craig
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Old June 20th, 2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
(my 2 year old is napping and I'm Mr. mom while the wife is out. Can you say multi-task!)
I bought my car when my oldest was 4 month old. I got more done in first two years than I got done in the remaining six years till it was finished. Little kids can sleep through anything.
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Old June 20th, 2012, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68 View Post
I bought my car when my oldest was 4 month old. I got more done in first two years than I got done in the remaining six years till it was finished. Little kids can sleep through anything.
I have a 4 year old too. Time is running out in the nap department! I have to make trades with the wife for some "free time!"

Craig
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Old June 21st, 2012, 06:29 AM
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looks great!!!

craig looks great Man!! good job...
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Old June 26th, 2012, 06:38 PM
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Etching primer

Ok, Oldsmobile gurus,

I painted the front chassis with etching primer and just received eastwoods chassis black paint. The directions indicate not to spray it over "etching primer" Any suggestions on how to remedy the situation?

Thanks,

Craig
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Old June 26th, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
Ok, Oldsmobile gurus,

I painted the front chassis with etching primer and just received eastwoods chassis black paint. The directions indicate not to spray it over "etching primer" Any suggestions on how to remedy the situation?

Thanks,

Craig
Suggestion? Spray with black enamel. When cured, scuff, then paint with Eastwoods. The scuff on the top paint should give enough of a bite for the Eastwoods product to lock into.
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Old June 26th, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Thanks Alan, I'll give that a try!
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:53 PM
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Craig you could have sprayed regular primer over etching primer? I wonder what the chemistry is? I was just reading you can use etching primer on por-15 then use the chasis paint? Hmmmmmm weird
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Old June 27th, 2012, 04:25 PM
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Yep, don't get it either! I might give eastwood a call to find out.
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Old July 2nd, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Angry Machine shop rape!

After wrestling around with the upper and lower control arms I decided to take them to a machine shop and have the bushings and ball joints removed. I figured 40-50 bucks. NOPE! The guy quoted me an hour and a half labor totaling 150 bucks! I'm wondering if he just didn't want to do it and quoted me a high number so I'd go away? Well guess I'll be installing the new ones with a socket and a BFH! It seems like everything is outrageously expensive these days! Why is it that goods and services don't seem to be in a recession/depression???
does this seem high to you all?

Craig
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Old July 2nd, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 442craig View Post
After wrestling around with the upper and lower control arms I decided to take them to a machine shop and have the bushings and ball joints removed. I figured 40-50 bucks. NOPE! The guy quoted me an hour and a half labor totaling 150 bucks! I'm wondering if he just didn't want to do it and quoted me a high number so I'd go away? Well guess I'll be installing the new ones with a socket and a BFH! It seems like everything is outrageously expensive these days! Why is it that goods and services don't seem to be in a recession/depression???
does this seem high to you all?
Matter of fact it doesn't surprise me in the slightest. When I did my suspension last year I thought the same thing. Only 150?? It's more up here. That's why I did em myself.

Save yourself some frustration and go to Otterzone. They have a tool loaner program. I used a ball joint press to do all the ball joints and control arm bushings on my car. Wasn't exactly a piece of cake, but it was free. If you're not dealing with a lot of rust, shouldn't take more than about 15 minutes per bushing. Lower ball joints were like 30 seconds.
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Old July 8th, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Paint prep fun!

Thanks for the advise Allan.
I bit the bullet and paid for the removal. Now I'm fighting with paint prep! My sand blast cabinet aint cutting it! I've used the grinder with a wire wheel as well. Sprayed the Lowers with automotive rustolium primer. A few spots of grease and crap have shown through. Back to prep. I ended up using the same stuff to cover my etching primer mis hap on the firewall and crossmember. I looked for epoxy primer but apparently you cant use it in California! The auto primer seems to hold and since it is both made by rustolem you'd think it would be compatible. We'll see.

Craig
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Old July 8th, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Just one thing. When you're ready to put in your new bushings, sand down the edges of the openings where the bushings will be inserted. A build up of paint/primer there can make pressing bushings in very tight.
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Old July 8th, 2012, 09:03 PM
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Will do, Thanks!
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