marxjunk

theres a couple on ebay right now...a member here is selling them..i saw them in the last day or two..some of the stuff he has on there is really cheap/reasonable

ive been looking for my set up..i havent seen it since i moved..and just havent had enough time to look the the dozen skids of totes...

jensenracing77

The intake manifold is not to hard to locate. I know of some that are out there. The turbo, carburetor, fluid metering valve, ans intake manifold are fairly easy to find. The exhaust manifolds, valve covers, fluid tank, a couple valves and rubber gaskets are the hard parts to find.

jensenracing77

I will get one eventually. This one will work for now. The two on ebay are Ken's. I picked up the complete Jetfire engine he had last year. I could use the intake off of that engine but if I take that part where will I stop? I fear if I used it I would end up with it apart forever and end up parting it.

marxjunk

been there..i feel ya

jensenracing77

At least I found some good news to offset the bad intake manifold. The Foot Flange rubber seal is good. this is the rubber seal that seals the turbo to the intake manifold. I would prefer this good and the intake bad any day. The intake manifold is MUCH easier to find than this rubber gasket. This is a major trouble area for Jetfire owners. I do have an NOS one that I picked up a couple years ago but very glad I don't need to use it.

jensenracing77

I got the intake manifold and turbo setup back on. Tried to start it and found that the rubber line at the tank swelled shut and would not let it start. I have never seen this before. The rubber is so old and rotten that I will have to replace it. For temporary I put a fuel line from the pump to a fuel can and fired it up. MUCH quieter!!! No valve or lifter noise now. It did start leaking gas at the sediment bowl so I turned it off. I will try to get some details worked out tomorrow and try again.

jensenracing77

Sometimes I think I am the dumbest.... I had this car running today with a hose ran from the fuel pump to a fuel can. I thought the can was full with 5 gallon in it but I ran out of gas in about 10 minutes. I was confused and just thought it must have not been full. I went to town and got 5 gallons of gas and started the car back up. After about 10 minutes I seen the glass fuel bowl almost empty and then all of the sudden it filled up real quick. I suspected the fuel pump must be going bad the way it looked in the glass bowl. I started to pull the fuel pump and bumped the fuel can and it was empty again. I couldn't believe it burned 5 gallons of gas that fast. I was scratching my head for a while and then I realized that I still have the return line hooked up and it still runs to the cars gas tank. I was emptying the gas can into the tank on the car, lol.

New video coming later tonight.

jensenracing77

Other than the exhaust leak it sounds much better. Now just to fix the fuel line at the tank.

Hairy Olds

Note to Eric when panning around go a little slower and let the lens adjust to dark areas.

jensenracing77

I am for sure no expert on cameras and videos. I will try that next time.

I replaced the crossover pipe with a used one I have. Three of the bolts came right out of the exhaust manifolds and one give me some trouble. I was turning the one back and forth till I thought it was almost out and then it broke. For now I just used the one bolt on that side. I will drill out the other when I rebuild the engine. This thing is much quieter now. I also replaced the fuel line at the tank and let it run again. I think I am ready to put the radiator and everything back together. I do not think I will be able to let it run as long with the radiator. I am almost sure it is to plugged up to keep it cool enough. I will install a temp gauge for a while just to see what it is doing and keep it safe.

Would like to drive this into the show spot at the MCACN but I am not sure I will get the brakes done by then. I fear the brakes will be a major job on this car. The pedal is rock solid so I know the master cylinder is locked up. I can only imagine the wheel cylinders being the same way. Not to mention most of the brakes lines don't look so good. I have not even popped the lid on the master cylinder to have a look.

jensenracing77

I figured out why it was so quiet after replacing the crossover pipe. It was running good at first but continued to get worse till eventually it died. It was only 190 degrees but I let it cool down and tried to restart it. It would start and bog down very bad. Ended up finding that all the rust inside the exhaust got plugged up at a bend at the back. I poked a screwdriver into the pipe to open up a rust hole a little bigger. I started it back up and POW!!! It blew another big hole in the exhaust and now the thing runs better than ever.

I took it out to the road and back. Nothing to fast at first because it has no brakes of any kind. I did end up driving it to the next corner south and back but there is no traffic out here.

I do not believe this car has ever moved under its own power since 1974. That is till now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XktL...ature=youtu.be

70-442-W30

And 42 years later, the car AWAKES! That was awesome! Are the brake parts hard to find for it? Possibly you can at least get the e-brake hooked up before the show?

jensenracing77

Most of the brake parts are easy to get. At least all of the parts I need are easy to get. The back brake shoes can be tough to come by at a fair price but this car does not need any shoes. It just needs the master cylinder and all 4 wheel cylinders rebuilt. I would bet they are pitted bad enough inside that I will not be able to just put kits in them. All the E brake cables are locked up. I soaked them with Kroil last year but still locked up. I am thinking I may remove the master cylinder later today and have a look.

jensenracing77

I spoke to soon... Just pulled the master cylinder and found that it is severely pitted inside. It will have to be sleeved or replaced. I hope I can find a good core and just replace it.

I know that there is controversy on the color of a master cylinder on the 68 and newer model year but this one from 62 is for sure black originally. Still have much of the black still on it.

70-442-W30

Is it the same as the one on my F-85? I could pull it and send it to you to use for the show if it checks out ok. That's if I still have the car.

jensenracing77

No need for that. I will likely just take it without brakes. I have to get back on the red inner fender project.

jensenracing77

BINGO! I found the spot that was stuck. I soaked it several times with Kroil and hit it with a propane torch and got it warm to the touch about 4 times and it broke loose. I have e-brakes now! Even if I don't have the brakes finished by the time we take it to MCACN I can at least get it to its spot without help. I don't trust the nasty cables but I am not going to be above 1 mph in there anyway. Not with Millions of dollars in cars around especially.

70-442-W30

YES! That is exactly the good news you needed. Perfect.

jensenracing77

The guy that discovered this car just put out a new You Tube video on it.

Cincinnati Rick

That's so cool Eric. Thanks for posting.

jensenracing77

I got the brakes fixed. Replaced almost all the brake lines, rebuilt the wheel cylinders and bled the brakes. Now it stops great and runs very nice. I took it for a 4 mile drive this morning and then just went on another 9 mile drive. I got it up to 35 MPH one time but other than that it was 30 mph at the most. The tires on this car are junk so keeping it nice and slow. I don't plan to do any more work to it till after the MCACN show. The next work to be done after the show will be to clean it up, work on the turbo system so that it will boost, Change transmission and rear end oil, and New tires.

This video is nothing big but it is the first official drive with the brakes working. The window is still dirty from storage so it looks hazy.

70-442-W30

That looked faster than 35 to me...You better slow it down you adrenaline junkie!

Really though, good going on the brakes. You have to be pretty happy about that. Interested to know how it rides. What does it feel like compared to the W-30?

jensenracing77

Just wanted to update the thread. Took the car to MCACN and had a great time. Had people standing in line to get a chance to look at the extra Jetfire engine. With the amount of attention it got as a dirty "barn find" we have decided to clean it for the first time since likely 1974 and take it to the World Of Wheels in Indianapolis in February. We will take both Jetfires and the extra engine to this show since it is only an hour from me.

I started cleaning it yesterday and boy is that dirt deep... It is taking some hard scrubbing to get it clean. I am going to have to learn how to buff it or take it to my body guy because it needs more than just a wax job. It is old Lacquer paint so I think it will shine up good but I don't think I trust myself to do it. I also started polishing the chrome. Some of the chrome parts looked so bad I did not think they could even polish up but those are the parts that turned out the best and look new, I can't believe how good most of the chrome looks. The bumpers I thought would clean up very good did turn out nice but not near as nice as all the other chrome.

I will post pictures when I get it cleaned up more.

Inline

Yes, more pics please. Wonderful piece of history.

jensenracing77

Here are some pictures after cleaning it two times. The first time was with dish soap and hard scrubbing. It did not do very well at cleaning the years of dust and gunk. This morning I used some industrial degreaser diluted with some water and more hard scrubbing. This worked MUCH better but the paint has lots of stains and chips in it. I think I am going to take it to my body guy and see what he can do with it to shine it up a little better. The pictures look good but in person it needs some attention. Started to clean under the hood but have a long ways to go. I have not touched the interior yet. I am real happy with how the chrome is turning out.

83hurstguy

Eric, car looks like it's cleaning up nicely. It will probably need some buffing for the first clean up by someone who's at really good restoring old lacquer. Read this article for tips on restoring/maintaining old lacquer.... I can vouch the #7 works well and it definitely "feeds" the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ge-paints.html

If you want to do it yourself, getting a FLEX polisher (dual action) with the proper compound can work wonders. The rotary is the best method, but can also the most damage.

jensenracing77

Thanks for the link! I looked at it just a little and looks like great information. I will read though it in the morning and see if it is something I want to try myself. I don't trust myself with to much when it comes to paint care.

jensenracing77

Thanks again Luke!!! I was up early and found some Mequiars #7 at Autozone. Only place in town that had it and the last place I stopped, lol. I have been working on it for an hour and had to take a brake. I have used my arms up and not even close to half way done. Had to take a brake. I have not taken any off yet and will let it soak like the link suggests but from what I am seeing so far it is going to look amazing! That is if my arms survive. I have to save some energy because I have to set up the Christmas tree tonight...

This cloth started out white

Hairy Olds

The show car glaze has mineral oil in it which makes the finish look good for a while. The car will need a good light buff using the correct polishes and buffer. Lacquer will never buff back to the look new stage just because of the aging process of the paint. Keep the car warm in the winter months to preserve the paint.
Eric never wash a car that hasn't been wet for a number of years it will start rusting fairly quickly in the unseen areas. Use a lot of moving air around the car for a few days to dry the car out.

jensenracing77

I have it at work in the heated shop. I washed it and had fans blowing on it all day yesterday and over night. I will have it in here till Monday. I get to use the shop from work after hours and with this being a long weekend I had planned to keep it inside all weekend. I did not want to get it wet but not sure how else I was going to wash it. This thing was terrible.

I hope to give it a coat of wax before taking it home but not sure that will happen. I am sure it will need gone over again with the Mequiars #7 but I know I can't do that this weekend so likely not going to get waxed.

jensenracing77

My wife called and said she has plans for me the rest of the weekend so I had to finish and not let it soak in. It for sure needs to be rubbed one more time but the difference so far is amazing! Hard to tell in the pictures but if you look at the reflection of the lights from the ceiling of the building between the before and after you will get an idea how much it is working.

83hurstguy

Nice work Eric! You're welcome. We have been using it on an original paint Avanti and it has been a game changer, though as you noted it's a pretty physical process and the #7 is getting harder to find. Too bad you aren't around Chicago, would be more than happy to help with buffing the paint to make it really come back.

64Rocket

I wonder if you used a buffer and just let the weight of the buffer do the work?

Gene

jensenracing77

My lack of knowledge in this department makes me want to be extra cautious. I have read a couple forums now that say you can mess up the paint using a power buffer if you don't know what you are doing. Then I also read that a dual action one would be safe but you will have a fortune in pads. With not knowing anything about it, the one consistent thing I read is that I would be safe from messing it up if I do it by hand. My arms hurt real bad tonight though.... I am going to do the hood and trunk lid again but I think I will live with everything else.
I have not touched the white yet.

Hairy Olds

Looks good Eric and with the chrome shinning up you can sell me the NOS side emblems right.
I use a pneumatic da polisher and it is pretty safe for this type of work.
I use Griot's products and the work well. The paint clay is a must before any wax or polish.

jensenracing77

oops, Shows how much I know. Never used clay before...

The emblems are already spoken for if I ever sell them. A guy restoring a Jetfire is wanting them but I am just not ready to use my NOS ones yet. I need a front grill emblem. There was one at Homecoming in 2012 but I did not need it at the time. I sure wish I knew who it was that had it.

jensenracing77

I finished polishing the white section and a couple other details. Still have a long way to go. Will have to polish it at least one more time to get it right. Also have much more chrome and trim to polish. Other than the glass I have not even started the interior. It was smoked in and not going to be easy to clean.

70-442-W30

Good pics, and that was on an overcast day. When you get it in some sun you are going to really see the work you've done to it. Nice going.

jensenracing77

I was asked buy a You Tube follower for an update. Here is a short video of the paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSPM...ature=youtu.be

jensenracing77

I detailed the trunk of the car. I was able to get the original floor mat out without destroying it. I cleaned it up but it is stained to bad to get real nice.

Also wanted to update this thread with the original picture. The Nephew of the original owner contacted me and sent me this original picture of the car when it was new. The develop date in November 62 but it is in Chicago and the leaves are green. It had to still be Summer of 62 when the picture was taken. With this picture I have determined that the spare tire is original.