I also have a 70 Porcelain White W30 with red stripes.
I have the correct white paint code if you still need it.
Derek

 

Thanks for the offer Derek, but we were able to find the paint codes for all the 1970 exterior and interior paint shades with a DuPont cross reference number. My painter did spray outs for everything and they match great to areas on the car with pristine paint so that’s what we are running with.

 

Restoring the rear diff finally got moved to the top of the list as the chassis is about ready to accept it. I am hand cleaning it to to try and retain the original aluminum finish as much as possible. I have seen blasted aluminum And it takes on a different look. I will spot blast the steel tubes though. So after cleaning the housing real good by hand, there is no date stamping on the left side where it should be. Ever seen this before? There is the faint L and R marking left and right. Also thanks to 507olds for getting me the right parts for the rebuild.

 

Your chassis restoration looks outstanding! Great job!

 

Thanks for the compliment. I got lucky and this frame is about as free of rust pitting as you will ever find. Only pitting was a slight amount under a few body mounts.

 

I think this is the original brake proportioning valve for my 1970 442 with front disks but would like someone to confirm this. What are the numbers stamped on it? A date stamp? Any suggestion on where to buy a rebuild kit or have it sent to be rebuilt?

 

Looks original to me? Are you going to rebuild it?

 

Yes I plan to reuse it. Just need it rebuilt. I think one stamp is the 325 day of 69 which jives with my first week of Dec 69 build date. Just looking for leads on a rebuild kit or rebuilder.

 

I had a W-27 that was not stamped also. I know of another also that was not stamped

 

If that's the case, mine was made same day?

 

What finish is on the bracket for the distribution block? Is it yellow zinc? And check out White Post Restorations for rebuild services. I have photos of a restored block in my resto thread.

That number is the julian date on the block.

 

Most were brass but it appears that some including one on one of my cars was cast. In the current build thread by Costpenn, he found and provided photos of a distribution block that was cast. I don't recall where the car he is working on was built but mine came from Linden so it could be specific to that plant. In your pics, yours appears to be cast as well.

 

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/gm-parts

 

Distribution blocks are cast. Up to 1970 they were the smaller type as previously shown.
In 1971 the metering valve on disc brake cars was combined into the distribution valve and became larger and different in style.
The aftermarket combined distribution valves are brass.

 

I bet they made them in batches like other stuff. If your build date is close to mine of 12A that would make sense.

 

Stainless fuel lines?

 

I cleaned the bracket as best I could and it did not look like a yellow zinc coating. I even looked under the part of the bracket that is screwed to the block and it does not look yellow zinc. It could have all worn off but not sure. I was just happy the screws came out without breaking.!

Thanks guys for the leads in rebuild kits or rebuilders. This is definitely a cast block and not brass.

 

Yes. I bought inlines stainless lines.

 

My build date 12/69

My dist block bracket also natural, not cad or painted

 

Block is phosphated. Bracket, too. This is for a Lansing car. The ILT repop is brass and a single piece.

Other plants used brass and different plating in the bracket to the frame. I don’t have / know the breakdown by plant and can only speak to my experience with Lansing cars.

 

I think I have the rolling chassis about done. The body at the body shop is not quite ready to drop on the chassis so I sit and wonder if there is anything else I should do while the chassis is bare and easier to access stuff. What do you guys on the forum think? A few photos to show how it sits now. Big thanks to Brian Trick for all the parts and advice on the differential rebuild.

 

Looks VERY nice! Great work! On mine, I used shrink wrap on much of it till I installed the body on it. If I remember correct, I think I left the shrink wrap on till after we mounted the body to it and I brought it back home. Just have to cut around the body bushings to mount the body. Keeps it spotless clean till you have all the other stuff done.

 

Looks great. Following along for the rest of the build.

 

Great work! It looks really nice!

What paint did you use on the frame? Looks like the rear end cleaned up well.

Let's see some more photos!

 

Looks powder coated? It looks to be in great shape.

 

Good idea on the shrink wrap. I’ll look into that.

 

It is paint and not powder coat. Powder is more durable but I like to be able to repair easily and paint you can repair, but powder is more difficult. The car will be a garage kept, driven in good weather kinda car so I felt paint would be fine. Not sure of the exact paint brand. Painter did the work. He did say it was hot rod black which is satin so looks good. They have used it on lots of frames and had good luck. I was really lucky on the frame. No smoothing needed. Just blast and paint. Body.....not so much. Rear end did clean up nice. Lots of scrubbing. Left it natural and did not paint it. I like the raw aluminum look versus paint. Also let’s you see it’s a real aluminum center section and not just painted. QUOTE=WTHIRTY1;1221547]Great work! It looks really nice!

What paint did you use on the frame? Looks like the rear end cleaned up well.

Let’s see some more photos![/QUOTE]

 

Do you happen to have any photos of your original mesh package tray? I tossed mine in the garbage before snapping a ton of photos of it. Is it a darker blue?

Thanks!

 

No I don’t have package tray pics. The interior except the headliner and dash was out of the car when I got it and they did not have the package tray in the parts they gave me. Sorry

 

Fixing to send a few parts off to get rebuilt. Trying to be sure these parts are original to the car. Brake booster and wiper motor. Car was built 1st week if Dec 69. The wiper motor still had the tag on it so I think it shows 293rd day of 1969. About right. The booster not so sure about. The tab on the booster has 329 on the front and 1334 on the back. It does not have Delco Moraine stamped on it but I don’t think all had that. Is the 329 the Julian date?



This looks like the original wiper motor. Agree? Being sent to Steve Hackel. Should I try to remove the sticker?

Brake Booster. Is this the Julian date on the tab?

 

Steve Hackel for the wiper motor rebuild.
Steve Gregori for the booster rebuild.

Both are A+

 

Another great 90 degree bend on an original motor. Steve will swap that out so make sure you ask him for it. He’ll then tell you that the 90 degree bend is not right even though we’ve documented ‘70 Lansing built cars as having that bend. Just an FYI...

 

X2. the 90 degree bend is correct. You can even see them in the early 70's car magazines.

 

what Steve and what 90 degree bend are we talking about?

 

yep that’s what my thoughts were also

 

thanks for the heads up Jimmy. I’ll be sure to tell him I want the 90 degree head put back on it or sent back. I guess I could take it off before I sent him the unit.

 

Steve Hackel and the outlets on the washer pump that are 90 degrees to the pump.

 

11C build date '70 W-30 here with original brake booster. Brake booster has "314" on the forward facing tab and "1344" on the rear facing tab. "Delco Moraine" stamping, or lack thereof, is nothing to be concerned with. You've got the correct booster.

 

Settled. I’ll rebuild the booster since it’s original. Awesome. Small problem. Talked to Steve Gregori and he is not accepting any more boosters right now. He is selling the business and I’ll have to wait till all that is settled unless someone else has a good reference that can rebuild and replate a booster

 

I was going to mention that about Steve in my posting last night but figured you would be calling him anyway and better to "hear it from the horse's mouth" instead of second hand. I thought he might be accepting boosters right now since I think he'll be sticking around to assist/train/oversee the guy that is looking to take over his brake booster business. Sounds like they're still negotiating a deal right now.