69Cutlss

Building a drivetrain for my 69 Cutlass S. Found a donor engine from a 72 Cutlass, tore it down and found it still had stock bore (4.057) and a set of 7A heads. Took heads, block, a 330 crank, bolts, brackets, etc. to the machine shop. Bought a set of procomp 4340 rods and a set of Probe pistons (4.087) and much much more. Picked up an M20 Muncie 4-speed and rebuilt it, replaced almost everything except for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear, lol. Also picked up a 12-Bolt out of a Chevelle that I have disassembled, blasted and painted and is now ready to be setup as a 3.55's posi.

69Cutlss

It took a while, but, finally have all the parts from the machine shop...
The rods checked out good just had to weight match them and the pistons. Oh and the Dual spiral locks were too much fun. Rotating assembly balanced from the balancer to the flywheel. The Heads were reworked and fitted with 2.07 intake and 1.71 exhaust, some bowl work, bronze guides, a new set of dual springs, and 10 degree locks. After getting the heads home, ground down the smog humps. Turned out very nice.

oldcutlass

Hello from Mayberry, I live not too far from you. Sounds like a nice build for a nice car.

69Cutlss

Thanks! Sharp 67! Here are some pics of my project...


Engine coming out


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350 & th350 out

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Core support was bent up from a previous accident, had to "tweak" it.


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Core support straight and back installed


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Front End back together


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Fresh out of the Machine shop. Painted, prepped and ready for the build

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Speedmaster 4340 rods and probe full floating pistons

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330 crank installed Like a glove!

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AIR bumps removed.


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Meanwhile...12 bolt out of a 70 Chevelle stripped, blasted, painted and ready to be setup for 3.55 Posi


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I rebuilt a Muncie M20 4-speed and it's ready!


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Auto to manual conversion kit from The Parts Place already installed. (Still looking for the correct shifter)


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oldcutlass

Nice, love the Chevy truck and the Charger also.

Eddie Hansen

Ditto I will add the charger in there as well man them old cal custom foot pedals are a trip still smiling I remember when they were the absolute rage

69Cutlss

Ok guys, here's hoping for some help!

Finally got the Cutlass back together. Pushed it out, timed it and fired it up, she ran up clean and broke in for 30 minutes at 2K RPM with 60 psi oil pressure at about 200 degrees temp. The next day, I put the light on it and timed it at 12 degrees (vacuum advance disconnected). Reconnected the vacuum advance and put the vacuum gauge on it, tweaked the idle air to highest vacuum and it read steady about 15. Ok, time for a ride. With 2:56 gears, and the new 4-speed, it's a slug at take off, but a 12 bolt with 3:73's is in the near future. After a short cruise to the pump on fumes, I filled it with 93 octane and took a ride, it was very strong, but I noticed pretty bad pinging, so I retarded the timing till the pinging went mostly away, (timing now at 2-4 degrees I think), now it's a slug everywhere. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. This is what I have:

350 bored .030 over
Probe floating forged flat tops (.004 side clearance)
Total Seal rings TSR-CR3690-95
Procomp 4340 Rods
330 forged crank
Melling high volume oil pump
Powerforce Balancer
All balanced from balancer to flywheel
Comp Cams Cam CCA-42-223-4
Comp Cam high energy lifters CCA-852-16
Comp Cams 1441 Roller tip adjustable rocker arm kit (zero lash + 1/2 turn)
BS6141 rear main seal
Comp Cams double roller timing chain
7A heads, 2.07/1.71 valves, (64cc?) surfaced, bowl work and smog bumps removed
Performer RPM intake
HEI distributor with "resistor" wire replaced with 12 gauge wire from terminal block
Powermaster 180 ft lb high torque starter
Holley 750 vacuum secondaries
MSD-31189 8.5MM Super Conductor wires
MSD-8416 CAP & rotor
NGK 3332 spark plugs (set to .045)

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69Cutlss

Videos of the break in and idling. Pretty much cleared up the pinging by disconnecting the vacuum advance, I'm leaving it disconnected until the curve kit gets here and I can do some final tuning