gman

Last year I picked up this car for pennys. My original intent was "just to get it running" Last month I started to work on her and now I'm in way too deep to turn back. So far I've:

I started to test fit a set of hooker 3101 and ran into all sorts of problems. I replaced both motor mounts, but still have several point of contact. The steering shaft, front cross member, lower A-arm pocket, and frame on the driver side. On the passanger side I can't even get the thing in. I raised the car as high as I can removed the oil filter adapter lifted the engine until the trans hits the tunnel, but no luck. Anybody have luck with hooker header in a 67?

Oldsmaniac

Have a 67 442 conv. Hookers fit well as far as headers go. Trying to remember problems with install....passenger side I had to grind/cut off upper control arm corner because one tube was denting there. Yes oil filter assembly had to come off then re-installed. Drivers side if I remember the car must go way up but not engine....that may make steering shaft hit....for sure brake distribution block needs to be relocated to top of frame from original side location. My car was stick and I think thats all the trouble that I had. Starter must be out as well.

gman

I've got the car as high as I can go with jack stands. I don't have a lift, so the 3 feet that hooker calls for in the instructions is not going to happen. Dimpled the tube for steering shaft. Also a slight dimple for the A-arm pocket. The brake line that goes across the center section will have to be moved as the primary tube rest on it. Also the brake distribution block was moved. Wow does anyone make headers that fit this car. I have a 64 Chevelle which is the same chassis and had no problems fitting headers on that car.

Oldsmaniac

I was told to buy Hookers as they fit the best....this was many years ago so I am not sure if anyone has improved on Olds headers. What you are going through is "normal" IMO for Oldsmobiles and headers. Chevy, Ford, Chrysler most likely have more effort put into their products since they are more popular.

gman

More pictures of the project

gman

Still more

67 Cutlass

Just noticed this thread...

Me likes your project car very, very!

Allan R

Just wondering...If you're putting in a 455, could that be part of the clearance problem you've got in the engine bay? I don't know what the 330 you had in before had for clearance. Someone on this site will be able to tell you what the tech issues are. Are headers a must have? What about factory dual exhausts for a 455 instead? Stock fit and probably no clearance issues???

BTW loved your pics of the project. Looks like you're starting with a really straight and relatively rust free body.

gman

Straight yes. NOT rust free. I pulled the vinyl top off and found a mess. The original owner thought the window gasket was bad, because when it rained water came down the inside of the window. I found out why.. See the pictures.

The 455 should be a bolt in replacement to the 330. The headers I have are made specifically for big blocks. I guess people have just been using hammers to get headers to fit right. The original exhaust manifolds don't move enough air and I'd pay more for a set of manifold than I did for the headers.

gman

More pictures

Allan R

Holy Cow!!
That looks horrible. Is the roof something that might have to be cut off and a donor car with a decent top used? The front cowl area also looks really bad. Is that something that can be patched?

Hope you're good with a cutting wheel/torch and welding.

RE: Headers. What are the chances you can get a muffler shop to custom bend a tube for the trouble pipe on the header? Or could they put it on the pipe bender (if there's enough room). I'd hate to have to beat the snot out of a brand new set of pipes just to make it fit. I saw a video on Doug Thorley headers. Oh crap! I just took a quick look at what they charge for your engine $$$$875!!!! Ok, beat the tar out of the ones you've got. Make em fit.

gman

I'm thinking about what to do with the roof. There are several really bad spots right were the seams in the vinyl was. The window channel will need to be replaced for sure.

Here are my options.

#1 - Replace complete roof skin

#2 - Replace bad sections and lead the rest

#3 - Give up on the project

67 Cutlass

How does the rest of the car look? i.e. lower rear quarters (behind the wheel), lower rear fenders (behind the wheel), trunk floor, floor pans, behind the interior kick plates or vents, body mount areas, rear window channel? These are other areas along with the pics you posted that are notorious for rust & rot.

Either way you have your hands full with the roof
If there's anyway I can help, let me know.

ent72olds

Depending on the rest of the car rust wise, I would save the car if the rest is good. Look for a donor roof(by the time you clean up all that rust, there will be many more holes and thin spots), you do live in Cali, shouldn't be too hard to find. I'm not sure if this car shares its roof skin with any other A-body...does goodmark make a skin for a '67 Chevelle(if they are the same)? To cut and weld in patches everywhere would turn the roof into a quilt....and I don't care how good a welder you are, warp beyond recognition, it would need a gallon of plastic to have a chance and still would show through the new vinyl top!

Ranzan

man to bad ......... just last week I took a rust free roof to the scrap yard... I had it up on craigs a few times not even a single call on it

gman

I gave this project some long hard thought and have reached the conclusion to move forward with the repairs. First order of business was to look for a roof donor. Done! 1967 supreme post car with clean sheet metal $350.00 plus gas and trailer rental. Thanks Tim.
My wife is amazingly Ok with now 4 cars in various condition parked in our back yard. I'm not going to push my luck, so the custom cruiser has an appointment with the wrecking yard. So sorry. Anyone needing parts better speak now. Post on parts available is here https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...m-cruiser.html
So far I've pulled the rusted out top off and started to painstakingly remove the donor roof. I can tell this is going to be tough. Anyone with experience on replacing a roof feel free to coach me here. The problem areas are at the drip rail. There must be a million spot welds. I want to use the sheet metal around the sail panels as well so I'm going really slow to make sure I don't damage anything. I'll post pictures of the progress when I get a chance.

gearheads78

moved thread to a better spot for you

As for the headers. My freind Robert says he can't install them in his 67 without setting them in the empty engine bay and then setting the motor in.

Also are you using the correct 400 motor mounts? The frame mounts are the same but you need factory BBO mounts.

gman

I was under the impression that as long as you used ether small block frame stands and small block motor mounts or big block frame stands and big block motor mounts that the crank centerline was the same. I think joe_padavano has done a lot of research on that, but can't find his post.

gearheads78

On a 66/67 there is no difference in the frame mounts. I was getting conflicting stories so I checked for myself. I compared the frame stands from an all original 67 442 and my 66 330 stands. They are identicle in every way. 68 up might be different though.

gman

Here are the mounts I bought. They were listed for the factory 330. Anchor #2261



Your saying i need the mounts for the 400 like anchor # 2328

gearheads78

Correct....Might not cure all the header problems but at least you will have the right mounts for a BBO in a 67.

gman

Richard -
The big block motor mounts will not work with the small block frame stands. The built in steel stop on the motor mount holds the mount 1/2" to high for the holes to align.

gearheads78

I am confused then. I parted out a rusty 67 442 that had 1973 plates. I kept the frame stands because I knew I would be putting a BBO in the 66. When I pulled the frame apart in the 66 I measured and compared the mounts and they are identicle.

I will ask Robert what his combo of mounts is with these headers

gearheads78

Sorry to mislead you. Its true that the frame mounts are the same but so are the motor mounts. You had the right setup the first time. Here is a note from Robert that has these headers in a 67 but is not a member here yet. The cooling system he is talking about is a 85 Suburban radiator is a direct bolt on.

gman

Thanks for the link and the help. This is the information that I read on motormounts, but couldn't find. I'll save it now. I know these cars shift a little with 40 plus years of use, so I guess my header fitment problems might just be a result of that. I'll look in to the radiator. Sounds like a "cool" swap. Pun intended. Looking at the image I would have to agree it looks like a drop-in replacement and $150.00 is hard to beat.

gearheads78

I will dig up the part# we used and several other guys on ROP have used to, Its an aluminum radiator for 179.00 at Autozone.

scubastever

i dont think the layout for the trans cooler is correct on this rad (unless mine was a hack job to begin with)

the cooler inlet & outlet should be on the same side, under the filler neck, on the passenger side of the car..

if im wrong, please please tell me now- before i start laying & bending lines.

gman

scubastever - your setup is correct. I just checked my two 67 radiators. Both have the trans cooler lines on the passenger side radiator tank.

gearheads78

Autozone part# we used is 433840 You need Napa #900 and 901 hose adapters too because the hose outlets on the radiator are smaller. Cooler fittings are on the passenger side. Its aluminum with plastic tanks.

Danielle's 71

will this fit on a 1970 cs?

gearheads78

I don't know. I don't think so. Several guys with 66/67s are using it. I have never seen it mentioned for any other years.