I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere but I can't seem to find it. I have a 1967 Cutlass Supreme which I am about to do a major restore. I have a 1970 455 crate engine that I bought about five years ago. I'm just getting to a place that I can build the muscle car I have wanted since I was a kid.

1. My 67 Cutlass has a 700r4 in it right now with the original 330. I plan on replacing front springs with heavy duty springs and shocks to handle the weight. I will also put in front and rear sway bars to handle the torque. The rear end is limited slip 3:42. I don't want headers. I believe this to be a drop in fit.

Is there anything that needs modifying?

2. I am going to replace the convertible roof. Does anyone make a custom liner for this car. It was and is not a stock item. If you have ever driven in this type of car, the roof is really loud and needs insulation both from sound and heat. I am in Texas and the factory ac cannot handle the heat. The blower motor is simply not strong enough! The good news is that it does blow cold. I am looking to insulate the roof. They also make nano window film that will block 98% of the heat coming through the windows. I was looking to install.

Does anyone have a 1967 442 hood they would like to sell?

Thank you for any advice.

 

The 455 is only about 30 pounds heavier, so don’t go wild with the new front springs or it will sit too high. If you use an aluminum intake manifold it might weigh a few pounds less than the small block.

 

It is a bolt in with no issues really. Maybe upgrade cooling and exhaust. Otherwise, just go for it. All the brackets and pulleys will work if you use the same water pump, even the distributor will work. If you upgrade to 442 dual exhaust manifolds and a good dual exhaust system will be great If you it a 700r4 then you have a engine to trans adapter which will also work, Use all the hardware the same on that as the 330. Uses the same motor mounts but get new ones. Most suppliers have the catalog wrong for them. If you use all the brackets and pulleys you will need belts from a 442 with a 400 the same year as the car.

Hope this helps. I see it is an old listing. But just added some 2 cents.
Larry

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...on-list-33826/

 

Roy34 where are you in Texas? I have the same car, 67 CS convertible w/455, 700r4, but with a 3.08 rear end. My only suggestion would be to swap the 11" brake booster for a dual diaphragm 9" brake booster. I have a set of generic chrome valve covers and my booster touched the driver side valve cover. I still have drum brakes and used a 8" dual diaphragm booster and the brakes seem a little hard for my taste. When I put disk brakes on it I'll upgrade to a dual 9" booster. If you have any questions get in touch.

Dan K.

 

The 1967 442 used an 11" booster with the BBO 400. The 67 cars used one notched valve cover on the driver's side as a result. The 455 is exactly the same size as the 400. There is no need to change booster.

 

Your south of Austin, about four hours from me. I'm in Denton. Be nice to meet up sometime when my car is done. I'll be free in June and July. I'm a school teacher and should have lots of free time come June. Its funny you bring up putting disc brakes. The standard size for this car's tires are something like 235/60r14. I have American Racing Wheels with 235/60r15. These are pretty big tires but just barely fit in the front. I love the look of the tires with the cragars. When I put Disc Brakes in the front, it moved everything out forward so that the tires are rubbing on the inner wheel well even when I'm on a flat surface going straight. I am hoping that after I have replaced the front springs with heavy duty springs, shocks and polyurethane bushings, it will lift the car the half inch I need to use my brand new avenger tires 235/60r15.

 

1967 Cutlass Supreme with 330 engine. As stated in previous posts, I'm pulling the engine and replacing it with a 1970 455 complete rebuild, which brings me to several questions. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm not a mechanic but really like the process of learning as I go!

1. Can you please suggest what and where I should be ordering heavy duty springs?
2. What kind of front shocks should I be looking for?
3. The vehicle is going to be frame off restore. Will the new polyurethane body mounts lift the frame off the chassis an inch??
( hopefully giving me a little more clearance in the front wheel well) I have tires that are slightly too big for the front wheel wells (p235/60r15). Currently the tires rub on the inner wheel well. The tires worked perfectly until I put disc brakes on the front. Once that was done, it moved everything outward about a half inch and now my tires rub the inner well.
4. I'm about to order a front & rear sway bar kit with polyurethane bushings, "SPOHN PERFORMANCE" part #926A $349
Does any one have an insight into these sway bars or do you have a better suggestion?
5. Other than a rear sway bar, is there anything I should do to the rear end. FYI....I have switched the rear end from 3:08 t0 3:42 limited slip. I've also switch the power glide to a 700r4 in previous years.
6. What type of rear shocks should I be looking for.

This is me trying figure out what I'm going to be doing to the suspension and how much it will cost. I'm thinking about robbing a bank or killing my ex wife in order to pay for this! LOL

Thanks to everyone.

 

1. I'm using BMR 1" drop springs on my car. The springs were sagged on my car and the new springs did not change the height of my car a 1/4". Its stance is where I like it.
UMI sells standard height springs and of course Moog. There are a number of threads on this site covering springs. They sell rubber spacers that go under the front springs that are about 3/8" thick that would raise the front of your car about 3/4". GM used them on some models during assembly.
2. I put KYB shocks on my car. The ride is ok for me but I've read some feel they are harsh, Bilstein if you have the money.
3. If not you could always put large washers between body and mount but the down side is more of the frame would show under the rocker and it could make it more difficult to align the bumpers.
4. Seems like a good choice.
5. You'll need to put reinforced lower control arms on the rear to mount the rear bar. I put aftermarket rear arms on mine with johnny joints and they seem to be working great.
6. see 2.

 

The difference in weight from a 330 to a 455 is probably about 50 lbs (and less if you swapped the iron intake for aluminum). You may not need different springs.

Kind of your call. I like KBY. I've also had good results with Monroe gas shocks for the daily drivers.

Depends on how much the old ones were squashed. I'm going to say that the difference is unlikely to be an inch, and probably even less than 1/2 inch.

That's about 1 3/8" front, 1" rear. Not a bad setup. The A-body cars are understeering pigs, so a larger rear bar actually makes the car more neutral. Herb Adams used to set these cars up with a 1 3/8" front and 1 1/2" rear bar. Those 1 1/2" rear bars are hard to find today. You may need to install nutserts in the front frame to prevent the front bar mounts from ripping out with the stiffer bar. Those self-tapping screws have limited strength.

You'll be fine with 3.42s. What rear end do you have now? Type O or something else?

Same as the front. KBY.