So now back to the black 442. Pulled the bumpers in the Spring and dropped them with Tri-Cities at Carlisle. Picked them up this Fall and they look great.

 

Having never done a full resto, I am tackling each part as it comes off the car and making it ready to reinstall. Wire wheeled all the bumper brackets and painted them. Fixed up the Rear light housings so they are ready to go back in.

 

Now I am tackling the core support. The one in the car is toast.

Hard to see but the battery tray area is completely rusted out.


I have a spare core support so that is next for the wire wheel, evaporust treatment, and paint. Slow and steady - right?

 

Something is always better than nothing and something that doesnt lead to going backwards is even better. Bumpers look nice, I did have a small chip of chrome fall off one of mine, disappointing it was but not going to make a case out of it. It is the first time I had an issue with a Tri City bumper.

 

So I just wire brushed 3 layers (and colors) of paint off the back of these upper tail light buckets. Are they supposed to be painted or bare metal?

Before I paint therm, should they be painted?

 

They were not painted on the back and sides.... but it won't hurt if they were because they don't show.

 

So I purchased backup light assemblies from Fusick but I cannot, for the life of me, get bulbs to install.


I know the bulbs are directional (only fit one way), but I cannot get them to install. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Ok, scratch that, 1156s are not directional. Still can’t get them in. I feel like I need to trim the rubber boot underneath. But these are expensive and I don’t want to bigger them up.

 

Hmmm, never had these repro units....maybe the spring is too strong under the center contact. Maybe try pulling on the green wire while inserting or pushing on the bulb or maybe chew some of the lead off the center contact on the bulb.

 

The challenge is that there is no spring. Inserting the bulb you have to compress the rubber cylinder. It is not easy and I am concerned about twisting the bulb out of its base.

 

Time for an update on the 442 project I would think!

 

I agree and I wish I had some visible progress. I had an accident in the red convertible and spent 2021 getting that back in good shape. 2022 has been a whirlwind of a year with one kid getting married and two grandchildren born plus the backlog of delayed events due to Covid.

I did get the front and rear bumpers straightened and rechromed. Rear lights all redone. All bumper brackets wire wheeled and painted. Radiator core support cleaned, wire wheeled, and painted. But that is about it. Hopefully I make more progress in 2023.

 

Slow and Steady!

 

Still slowly making progress.
I have the replacement frame blasted and painted:



And I have managed to acquire 4 different rear ends.
This Black 442 comes with this rear end, which is non-posi 2.xx:

SI



I also have a Chevy 12 bolt

Chevy 12 bolt - 3.55 gear posi

I have the corporate 10 bolt:

Posi with highway gears - 2.XX


And of course the O Type

Non-posi highway gear - 2.xx

Which rear end would be best for the 400 CU / 4 Spd?

 

All of them will be dogs other than the Chevy. The Chevy will be incorrect.

 

That’s the dilemma. The Chevy looks like the easy button. But I would prefer to keep it Olds.

 

Put the Chevy 12 bolt in for now. It's a relatively easy swap down the line if you re-build one of your existing rears or find another Oldsmobile rear.

 

A 355 gear is what Olds put in the 67 442 4spd cars. IMO the best choice here. The 390 I had in the red car was cool but not on the highway. You can find a posi unit if the non posi thing is a bother. That is what I did on my Pewter 67, found a posi on ebay and dropped it in after talking to our Rear Guru here Monaz. The rear I have in the Pewter car is a 69 Pontiac unit.

 

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

What 1st is in the 4 speed? I've been through them all- 2.20, 2.56, and now 2.99. The M22 2.20 will have you doing 30mph as soon as the clutch engages. The 2.56/M20 is pretty good all around, but the 2.99 is way better at the track.
I have 3.70s in a 9"; highway is about 3000 around 65mph.

 

Progress - slow and steady. The frame under the 442 is rotten so I got a new frame and I have started building the chassis.

 

Moving to the body, trunk first so dropped the fuel tank. Shocked to find the broadcast card. Unfortunately, it has disintegrated.

 

Glad to see an update! Keep them coming. No saving that build sheet ? where it was located.

 

I don’t think it can be saved. It was between the gas tank and the pad.

 

Yep doubt even a part of it is savable, I was trying to state that I think its the build sheet and not the broadcast card tat you found.

 

Thats always cool to find. I personally have never found one on the tank of a 66 or 67 Lansing car, I’m guessing it was a Fremont or Framingham car ???? Matt.

 

Great work so far , as for gear ratios my car came with the m20 and a 3.08 posi, it was my daily driver and with the 350 ran very well it wasn’t racer fast but it was fun, now I have a 455 and my builder said the 3.08 would be fine if not racing with all that torque??? I agree about the 3:55 I had that in my gto with the m20 and 400 was also very nice , anyway will be following along

 

Yes, Framingham car.

 

Tackling the trunk floor. Ripping out the sins of the previous owner.

Previous owner had riveted a sheet of steel instead replacing the floor properly.


And now it is gone.


Creative surprises underneath.

 

Time to fix it right.

 

You’re moving! Thats the important part.
Such a shame about the build sheet! Its so cool you found it but a bummer it’s so nasty.
Ive never found one in a mid 60’s car…only in a few 70’s.
Keep at it man!

 

It’s easier to stand in the trunk to fix the rear deck filer panel. But this makes no sense. I am not sure how someone could even make this hack repair. Has anyone ever seen this?

 

A wider view would give a better understanding of what is there, but yes lots of shade-tree repairs are usually found. The quarters were patched on my pewter car with aluminum foil and gallons of bondo. I had to replace the rear glass channel as well but could save the area between deck lid and rear glass.

 

Larger view of rear deck filler panel. Such a weird seam 3 inches from the glass.

 

Just plain old beautiful that is...

 

At the time for my 64 F-85 build I bought a 64-65 GTO rear filler panel, trunk pans, a braces from Ames Performance.


Looks like on the right path..

 

Well, I am on a path all right. Hopefully the right path. Pulled the rear glass. More evidence of previous sketchy repairs.

Rear glass is out. Interesting patches in the window channel overlapping the package tray.

Actually two overlapping pieces