A few updates... Replaced the "elephant trunk" flex/wrinkle upper radiator hose with a pieced affair made from 2 different hoses and spliced with PVC. This works better than it looks and eliminates the rough and ugly crinkle hose. I may turn the clamps to hide the screws and cut off the extra tails... I also picked up some really thin vinyl to attempt to recover my own arm rest pads. It seems I can't find any 4 door stuff out there. Lastly, I put a set of 255/60 15's on the rear... I think they are just about right... Cheers, Mike

PS... The car should be on the road by this Sunday!!!

 

Great job on your car, looks like fun instead of work. 64's are my fave, 4 door cars are a challenge. You seem to have a knack with figgerin out low budget stuff that works. If and when you need dedicated 4 door stuff don't be shy the Chevelle guys have some of that stuff covered that will work on the early A bodies. Them Cheby guys used up all the 2 door cars now all they can find is 4 doors so the vendors started makin 4 door stuff. My wagon has a bunch of Chevy vendor stuff, El Camino tail gate parts, 4 door Chevelle window sweeps and tailgate weatherstrip, etc.. just don't admit it to anybody

 

**LOL** Thanks for the tip a64olz, I thought of the same idea for some of the things I need too. I picked up a trunk seal for a 64 Chevelle from Ausley's at Carlisle a few weeks ago. Fit perfect... I'll be looking for a set of window fuzzies and door seals at some point in the near future.

 

It's alive and on the road today! This car has been off the road for 5 years, but it did o.k. I ran it down to the local gas station for a load of high test and to give it an easy test drive. Everything seems stiff, but I'm sure it will loosen up as it gets driven again. I see I'm definitely going to need to grab those camber fixing control arm shafts.. the tires lean in at the top. It seems to handle alright, but I didn't go over 30 mph with it yet either... I'll have to take it for a longer ride here soon and see how it goes. Cheers! Mike

 

The camber saver will not fit if your car has the original upper control arms. 64 arms used a threaded bushing with a grease zerk. The bushing threads into the control arm and the shaft pivots inside this bushing. 65 on up use the shaft with a rubber bushing and sleeve that is pressed into the upper control arm. My 1966 parts manual lists 64 upper bushings # 382980, 64 control arm shaft # 382976 65/66 bushings #3711826 65/66 shaft #382409, I believe that Canadian built 65's used the 64 type upper control arms and bushings.

 

Well, a64olz... you are right about the control arm style I have. They must be the originals... I guess it's time to post to the "wanted" section for a pair 65,66 or 67 upper control arms.

In the mean time, I managed to re-cover my arm rests and add a section of carpet to the shabby looking lower door panels. I found a strip of 12" by 6' strip of dark saddle carpet for about 15 bucks online [less shipping...]. This was enough to do all the doors with some left over. Now, if only the rest of the carpet looked as good. At least it turned out decent enough for me. I was going to use that 3M "Super 77" spray adhesive, but tried the weldwood stuff from the home center instead.... let me tell ya... you get TWICE as much glue for a dollar less. [32 oz of gel for 11.00 vs. 12.00 for 16 oz. of spray] And.. you can glop it on as heavy as you like and it actually sticks!!! No nasty overspray either and you can really get some control over exactly where you want it with a brush. I'd recommend the gel, especially on the vertical surface like door panels. Once the parts get together.. they stick! I've actually had the spray-glued parts fall apart moments after putting things together. I'll never use the spray crap again. It worked great on the armrests to.. stretching the material over and around the corners was tricky, and I still ended up with a few minor creases, but in all I did the carpet and recovered the armrests for less than 40 bucks, with plenty of glue left over for the next project.

 

Update: The car was inspected this morning. The ride in to the garage was uneventful except for a small amount of a grinding/bearing sound coming from the right front hub. The previous owner replaced the hub and had new bearings in it. I was sure to check all this stuff over and make sure the adjustment was good. I checked it again and rocked it in the 6 and 12 o'clock position, and it was tight with no movement. I don't know where the noise is, unless its a brake dragging...

My son followed me in, just in case something happened. He said there was a little white smoke from the left bank.. I was afraid of this... but after 46 years, what do you want? I've decided to run the 64 330 Police Pursuit Cam, so adding head gaskets when the motor is that far down is no big deal. I'm going to have to save my pennies though, as I want to do all the switching around at the same time. Anyone run the Police/442 cam? I haven't found a good cheap/affordable [on my budget..] 45 degree angle cam supplier out there. I'm looking for a slight cam sound and a bit more performance. This is going to be a daily driver and less than 5% of the time, a strip car, so streetability is vital. Cheers! Mike

 

Project Update: Today I installed the upper control arms I got from a forum member here this afternoon, between the rains. [A big thank you to Brian..]. I used the Moog offset upper control arm shaft kits to bring about a bit more camber to my wheels. The kits helped, but it is still leaning in just a little. I think dropping to the correct height tire may fix it. The car tracks straight, no wandering and the steering wheel is straight with the tires. While under the car I noticed the front sway bar bushings were dry rotted and shot, as well as the end links.. So, I'm heading back to the junkyard for either a second gen Camaro or a Caprice [hopefully a 9C1 police car...] front bar. (The current bar is 7/8" diametre..) With all this massive rains we have been having, I found the trunk/back window area is leaking, so there is always something to do. Cheers! Mike

 

I just finished a quick holiday project on the 64... I replaced the in-dash points style clock with a modern type of clock from a Land Rover, of all things. I grabbed the clock from the junkyard quite some time ago. It was a grab and pull affair... it pulls right out of the Land Rover and looks like a cube. I gutted both of the clocks and combined the new and the old using 5 minute epoxy. I had to do some relief grinding to fit the square body clock into the round Olds housing, but it wasn't too bad. I had to also trim just the corners of the Rover unit to get it all to fit. I added 2 lengths of red and black wires for hot and ground as well. The last and most involved thing to do was drill the cluster face for the Rover adjustment ****. The Rover **** was too short to grab and adjust, so I carefully slotted the stump, so I can get a small screwdriver blade on it to adjust it. The only bad part of the whole thing, is that I couldn't get the light to work as original in the clock. So it will be a daytime clock for now, until I can come up with a solution. It was a cheap and easy fix, and the new style clock draws hardly any current. The clock style and font looks o.k. and it seems to blend in pretty well. That might be just about it for today, as the humidity is thru the roof... time for a cold one in the AC. Cheers! Mike

 

Are you the world renown Mac Gruber?

 

**LOL** Nah, just someone with very little money. I enjoy the challenge of finding a low cost solution for problems like this. Finding the "right" stuff to fix up a 4 door is hard enough... MacGruber... **LOL**

 

Today was a rainy day, so I decided to do something about the lack of a package shelf board in the F85. I used 1/8" masonite board and went to the fabric store and bought half a yard of Nutmeg "Duck Cloth"...[only 4 bucks!] looks and feels like thin canvas... I used some of the left over brush on contact cement left over from the armrest re-cover job. I added a strip of the scrap over the edge to fill and cover the ugly gap between the seat and shelf. I fastened it down with 3 self tappers in cup washers. Now the back seat top looks really bad against the new shelf cover. I've got to figure out something cheap and easy to do with the entire back seat. The Jag leather was just too different and odd sized to use. I may try to do something about the ugly looking sail panels too...

A paint job is soon in order and I'm torn between a Marina/LeMans Blue OR a Bronze/Cinnamon metallic brown color.. [similar to GTO?] Would this be too much brown with the interior color? I'm really leaning towards the blue... Thoughts?? Cheers, Mike

 

Blue with a tan interior always looks nice. Olds had 3 or 4 blues available in '64.

 

I think I've decided on Marina Blue... now to save up the cash to buy materials... I've also decided to get rid of the 2 speed and go for a TH350 trans instead.. ( BTW.... anyone want to trade a perfect working Jetaway for a good working Turbo 350??) I just would like the extra grunt from a deeper first gear... **LOL** Cheers, Mike

 

Very nice, I love the 64 4doors

 

I picked a seemingly good rear for the car today.. the price was just right too. [Pics will follow when the camera patch cord is found...] This rear was from a 69 GTO Judge with the ram air III engine, as both the numbers checked out and the owner attested to. I've never seen an 8.2 like this one. It has a "N" [Nodular Iron] center case and a 4 pinion posi. This is also weird looking, as there is not the typical "S" spring or cluster of smaller coil springs you are used to seeing. The Housing is BEEFY and there are 2 extra ribs in the case, compared to my stock 8.2. This rear makes the old one look wimpy. Research also finds the axles to be specially treated from the factory. The axles look larger in diameter to me, but I won't be sure till I yank out the old rear to compare. I think this has got to be the factory's last attempt to beef up the 8.2 before the better 8.5" type was developed. Has anyone else ran into this rear before? The gear set is 3.36 and it is 55 1/4" wide from backing plate to backing plate. I think this is 1" wider than my stocker, but I really don't care about that little bit. I think all of my stock brakes and drums will swap over. The overall snout length looks almost identical and it should drop in. Will I have to swap over to, or find 68-72 upper control arms? I heard these are longer by 1/4" or so... If pressed, I may redrill or "graft" in a section. The rear was advertized as "Pontiac 8.2 non-posi rear.... " I don't think the guy pulled the cover or really knew what he had. I think it is worth a lot more... esp. to a GTO nut. Cheers! Mike [PS the rear is stamped code "XG" on the tube.. this comes up as a 69 pontiac GTO posi 3.36 8.2" rear...]

 

thanks for the update mike!! I'm was actually haveing the same issue with my car, I'm missing the same window moulding and I am re-doing my whole interior over the winter, but i was searching for a cheap alternative to use for now just to snug up the headliner, glad to hear you found a cheap "out" for us budget builders out there .. im gonna look into that myself a local yard has a 65 4door in it that im gonna check out this weekend for some other stuff maybe i'll slide over to the toyota section while I'm there

 

I found the camera cord, so I'm going to add some pix of the funky rear I found for cheap. I'm really torn though.. this rear is apparently worth a good bit of coin to the GTO guys. However, I've had no luck finding a good 8.5 rear from a Chevelle. A 12 bolt Chevelle rear is simply out of the question for financial reasons. Should i run this, or try and sell it. The money I get from this fancy 8.2 would only get me about halfway to a 12 bolt.. if I'm lucky. The 3.36 is tempting, but I'd really like a set of 3.73's really. Don't know what's in it now, but it's got to be very high gears at least [I'd bet the 2.78 set]. This new 8.2 sure looks like it could take some abuse. Ideas? Cheers, Mike

 

I don't think 70-72 chevelles had the 8.5's and if they did they'd be c-clip axles. Your best bet would be 70-72 cutlass and skylark 8.5 rears. I have a Cutlass 8.5 in my 64. The cutlass (and I believe skylark) rear have bolt-in axles

 

I finally found a good deal on a BOP case Turbo 350 short tail trans. Getting it though, was a nightmare.. It came from a small dot on the map called Fleetwood Penna., about 12 miles northeast of Reading... Lets just say bing and mapquest maps are full of it. I got stuck in downtown Reading at rush hour and it is chock-full of one way streets. Luckily I had my sons cell and was able to get directions from the seller. [I did however, lose the signal many times because of the terrain, adding to the stress.] I eventually got there and met the older gentleman selling the trans and he was a good guy. His buddy rebuilt the trans, with a shift kit and it has approx. 25,000 miles on it. I got the converter, tube and dipstick as well. All for 125 bucks! The trans is clean and he was good enough to let out most of the fluid. I plan on installing a new filter kit and front pump seal anyway... just cheap insurance. I've read the TH350 is a direct replacement for the Jetaway and it ought to make the car a bit more lively off the line. I'll be advertizing the Jetaway on Ebay in a week or so. If anyone here on the forums is interested in coming to get it, [so I don't have to go thru the bother of EBay..] they can have it for 100 bucks with converter and all. There's nothing wrong with it and it has about 95k on it. I live in York PA, zip 17402 for a ball park idea.

I'm heading to Fla. for a week, but after I'm back I'll be slipping the trans in and installing the center console. I'll post progress pix as I go. Cheers!

 

The TH350 has been installed. The job was easier than I was thinking and everything went together fine. It was the easiest non alike trans swap I ever did. I was thinking the small stuff.... like shifter linkage, was going to be an issue, but it wasn't. In fact the ST300 column shifter lever bolted straight onto the TH350... AND was clocked in the right direction. Also, no adjustment was needed, as the pointer now aligns BETTER with the indicator. The only thing is, in low, the pointer disappears... Everything else lines up nice. I was able to reuse one the cooler lines, but the other twisted off. The crossmember slipped right in place and everything lined up. I'm glad I changed to trans filter and drained the pan out. It stunk like something was dead in the pan when I dropped it down. I was looking for a dead mouse or something.. yuk! There was some sludge and the filter was cruddy, but the new stuff was easy to install. The seller told me there was a shift kit in it... um... no. There is no shift kit... It's not a slug into second, but it's not brisk either. It "may" be set up for "heavy duty", but I doubt it. I'm just happy that it will actually get a little rubber now off the line. The 2 speed just simply had no get up and go. All is well so far and I seen no puddles or drips this morning when I looked. Hopefully this trans is good and will last a while. Next stop is the rear install. Cheers! Mike

 

A puddle has been spotted.... it looks like the o-ring for the vacuum modulator is leaking. At least it is something not too bad to fix.

 

I have a couple of low buck / cool ideas i did with my olds.
I always run an oil pressure gauge and a vaccuum gauge, I installed the Vaccuum gauge into the block out plate where the clock would go its is inxpensive and looks factory. I also don't have an electric choke so I converted my Cigar Lighter to house the choke **** with the factory **** and mounting hardware so you cant tell. And since I moved my key to the column, I was left with a gaping hole where the old key was located, I installed a red lense and a programmable shift light, I toyed with the idea of using the dummy lights (not hooked up) for the shift light as well.

 

Great ideas 1964f85! I can appreciate the low buck solutions and mods.. my car has a few as well. I really like the ideas you posted.. pix?

I went and looked at the 455 today... It's an "F" block with "heavily massaged" "J" heads... aftermarket crank and rods and forged pistons as well. so I'm told... It has an Edelbrock Performer intake and it is complete with brackets, pulleys, dizzy and starter. They say it ran in the high 12's in the last car it was in... We'll see. He's even throwing in a set of headers for nothing. {The motor was in of all cars... A RWD cadillac Seville.. w/3.42's.. go figure..} I hope the headers fit!! I may be "wanted" posting for 455 exhaust manifolds if they don't fit. I hope the Turbo 350 holds together. There is a turbo 400 with a high stall waiting in the wings if the 350 trans goes boom. Cross yer fingers! I'll get some pix ASAP. Cheers, Mike

 

Due to lack of interest in the Jetaway, I've decided to junk it out. I gutted it this morning, keeping the torque converter, front pump assembly, electric valve body solenoids and the connector/plug. I'm going to hold onto this stuff if the turbo 350 heads south after the onslaught of the snortin' 455. I've been doing a bit of research and it seems you can add the ST300 switch pitch goodies to a turbo 400 and get the high stall effect to work. The 455 may be coming home in a few days... we'll see. I'm trying to plan my attack on that, as I need to order the 69 350 water pump and get the lower radiator tank connection swapped to the other side. Hopefully the heatwave here will let up enough to get things done. Cheers, Mike

 

Went and took a few pix of the 455 headed my way soon. It is mostly complete and includes all the extra bits and even a set of headers. I hope they fit. The motor turns free, but still had quite a bit of compression. There is supposedly all sorts of good stuff in this motor. I'll post the info when I get the specs. The TH400 will be removed and set aside. I'm hoping the TH350 I picked up will tolerate the big motor until I can afford the 400. I'll take quite a few pix of the conversion, and keep yous up to date. Cheers, Mike Loads of Mondello parts; bored 60 over... block was modified to cover the high rpm oiling issue in 455's, also high volume pump and double roller chain.

 

The 455 made it to my garage yesterday. I got some other goodies with it, including a set of hooker headers. Those look like they will be a major PITA to install, as a few of the bolts are almost completely obscured by the primary piping. I popped off the valve covers to find it has roller rockers on it. However, there is one of the rocker arm adjusting screws broken off. There are no markings on the rockers, so I'll have to ask the previous owner exactly what he used. I'd like to retain my stock valve covers, but it looks like I'll need to stack up at least 2 gasket sets to clear the rockers. I can see all sorts of "massaging" on the current valve covers. I've decided to use the turbo 400, as this morning I spotted trans fluid coming back up thru the kickdown cable and flooding the intake. It even feels like the trans is fighting itself when you drop it in gear.. so much for the "25k mile "rebuilt" with shift kit", eh? It works, but I'm going to take a big loss on it. I'll be having a steel 330 crank to post for sale here soon.. and any other 330 bits anyone might need or want, as well as a small block iron 4 barrel intake manifold. The pulleys are still a worry though.. I've noticed the 455 has a huge cast iron 3 groove pulley with several balance drill marks in the front... The 330 is a flat flange.. will the 330 pulleys work on the 455 balancer or, should I try to use the 455 lower with the rest of the 330 brackets and upper pulley? They actually look close... any ideas? Cheers, Mike

 

I had a very disappointing experience with Mondello regarding the broken rocker arm piece I needed... They will not sell individual pieces at all. They would sell me "half a set" for 80 bucks though. This leads me to believe they likely do not manufacture the rockers in-house. Why wouldn't you sell a part that the guy told me "break frequently"?? I'm going to try and make something myself, using the broken part as a template. It looks like it has some weird threads too... Replacing the roller with a stocker would be a bad idea. I'll post my progress. This really puts the clampers on my expected drive date. Cheers, Mike

 

Update: I found the threaded adjuster stud to be an oddball thread pitch ... It is a M12 - 1.5 thread. The local bolt place had no such animal, so a search on ebay uncovered a wheel stud for a BMW to be useable. I found one long enough at 65mm to use. For 6.00 it's worth a try. Otherwise it's time to upgrade to 1/2"x 20 material. I'm pretty sure I can reproduce the part on my metal lathe. It still gets me how un-cooperative Mondello was...

Anyway, I had some time to kill, so I decided to see what happens when you cross stock 14" wheel covers with a set of Chev S10 button caps. I think the result looks great and I'm thinking of adding a set of 15x 7's (and 8's) gloss black steel wheels with these caps to my 4 door for the "super Stock" look... with a set of bead lock screws to really make the guys in the know look twice.. **LOL** I'm going to go with 275/60 15's on the rear to fill them out. The car sits a bit high all round, as the trend was years ago... a nice change from the frame dragging "lowering" today. Cheers, Mike

 

those look like Harland Sharp rockers. get ahold of them they may sell you what
you need .

 

Stay away from Mondellos, they don't have anything anyone needs that can't be found somewhere else cheaper. ie. they charged my uncle back in 98 $399 for a set of hedman 58150's that they said were 455 Olds in a T/A headers. Of course everyone else sells them for like $200. But they slap their number on them in the catalog.

Still lovin your ride

 

Started ripping on the old 330 this afternoon. I started to transfer all of the brackets and such over to the 455. I decided to go all red and try and give somewhat of a factory appearance.. I like a minimalist visual approach.. **LOL** I plan on using the modified factory air cleaner as well. Now to round up an extra set of hands to help with the swapping.. I also have to swap on the shorter 65 water pump and finish painting.. Cheers, Mike

 

I gathered the parts and updated the radiator. The 1965 Cutlass 400 w/AC radiator I bought was too tall to directly fit the rad support. I had to cut and drop the lower "shelf" section of the support about 3" to accept the new taller radiator. I used metal the same thickness as the support. I was surprised to see how thick the metal is in comparison with today's cars... The job went smooth and all the mods are down low and out of sight. A few shots of black paint and they are almost invisible. I found a few other items which may prove useful to anyone else thinking about doing the swap.

1. The moulded lower hose I found at the local NAPA store... #7236 for about 23 bucks. 1.75" and 2.00" ends. Suits 65 Olds Cutlass 400 w/AC. [Sure beats "usa parts supply" ... a dollar cheaper and no shipping. Besides, the guy on the other end sounded like he would rather be having a root canal without novacaine than help me out. I'll think twice before calling them for anything again.]

2. I used radiator number 284, which is a downflow unit with a 3 row core. This was the "universal(?) number... Suits 65 Cutlass, 400 with AC. A call to 1-800-radiator, giving them the 284 number, yielded a price of about 175.00 . This rad is a no frills rad, and I have no idea where it was made. However, the local shop offers 1 year free replacement the next day. Plus, I like to support the local guys. Their price was a bit more.. [alot more... ]

3. I found two short water pump numbers at the local Auto Zone.. I chose the L58-293 pump, with the 2" outlet. {I chose this to match the lower moulded hose I was lucky enough to find. Otherwise, it's back to the "crinkle" hose... all the ones I ever seen had the same sized ends.. the rad has 1.75" outlets, hence the following pump part number with a 1.75 outlet.. makes it easy... Auto Zone # L58-363 and costs 11.00 more...}.

I'll post more pix of the parts and how they fit together. Takes a bit of keyboard time checking websites, but it sure helps. I can't imagine any typical parts counter kid looking up any of this stuff in the old books... much less have enough grey matter in the brain to imagine interchanging parts. Please verify the fitment of the parts for your application. Hope this helps! Cheers, Mike

 

I picked up the pump today and installed it on the 455. It bolted up perfectly and the hose fits as well. I added the pulleys to see how it will all fit together. I'm so glad this all worked together, as this was one of the major PITA's I seen with the swap. The last big job will be getting the headers in and bolted on. They look like a real treat, let me tell ya...

 

Let the fun begin, soon you'll be going varoom varoom

 

The 455 was dropped in last night, with the help of a friend. I had to do the motor mount shuffle, to get things to line up, but it went in fine after the kinks were figured out. I ended up using 455 motor mounts, as I needed the motor up to give clearance for the 330 manifolds... (yes, let the hating begin... **LOL**), seriously, I'm running out of cash and I need a running car. I'm willing to "choke it back" for a little while, until I collect the high flow iron manifolds. I'm not fooling with headers and I do not feel the need to run them. This car will lead an easier life.. no 6000 rpm blasts here.. I'll give it hell once in a while, but this needs to be my daily car. I found the 455 mounts still did not quite fit, so I used the "block mount bar" which came on the 455 as a spacer. I knocked out the studs in it and it was perfect. It dropped right in place. I'm worried about air cleaner clearance with the high rise manifold, and a scoop would look out of place on a car like this. I want it to look as innocent as possible. **LOL**. I think the cam will give it away... The exhaust still needs a few minor mods to bolt on [adding a sleeve and a cut and rotate job..]. The trans was easy and I was still able to hook up the column shifter. The last hurdle after the exhaust, is the installation of the GTO rear.. 3.36 posi ought to be about right. Sure like to find a chev 12 bolt though... More later, Cheers! Mike

 

Looks great setting in there.

 

Keep it up & I'll be doing the same thing to my F85.....just so tempting!!

 

Thanks for the comments! I had the big cube itch before when I yanked out a wheezing 260 in my old 79 Cutlass and dropped in a mild cammed 455/TH400 combo. There just is no replacement for displacement. It'll be a few days before it can be started.. still waiting on the BMW wheel stud I need to turn into the broken Mondello roller rocker adjuster bolt. [It's a real shame they wouldn't just sell me the piece I needed... still pissed about that.. ] I decided to add a torque limiting strap out of 1/4" steel flat stock. I'll be connecting to the head bolt/stud near number 1 cylinder and fastening it to the front crossmember. I decided to do this after looking at the "India" motor mounts. I swear the metal they are pressed from is not thicker than 1/16" or 3/32" at best... I'll post pix later.. Cheers, Mike

BTW.. This vid clip ought to get you 64-67 guys thinking about big cubes... this car has a 468 and is brutal. Watch how quick the speedo hides in the dash.. **LOL**

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vmn7o...eature=related

and this one...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7na5...feature=search

this gut has several other 64 vids as well... Enjoy! M.

 

I've finished making my replacement adjustment stud to replace the broken one I found in my mondello rocker arms. It turns out the proper piece is 7/16x 20 TPI. I "trusted" my local "bolt emporium" counter/kid to tell me the wrong thread of the adjuster nut I handed him to find the size for me. I ended up waiting for the M12 stud to arrive, only to find it was too big. Would you believe I found the right bolt at my local auto zone bolt section? So, for about 2.50, I made the adjuster. Now I know how to make more if I need to. I used an undamaged adjuster as a pattern. I also heat treated it and quenched in in oil. This turned my silver bolt black, just like the rest. The only thing I couldn't do was get the hex opening in the end for adjustment. I had to go old school and simply slot it. I really hope this part does the trick.

As for the rest of the project, the exhaust was pieced together [for now, until I sell my other car and have the money to do a REAL exhaust system on it], and the GTO rear needs to be installed. I hope I don't have to play the driveshaft game.. [but if I do, I'm going to southwest speed for a brand new driveshaft.. for 160.00!!]. Pics to follow... Cheers, Mike