Hop skip and a jump away so come bye and bring that 64 with you.
Gerald

 

Now that the 64 is almost complete, I have started on the 65. Trying to get it in running condition so that I can move it around easily for starting the rust repair. Plan is to start on the trunk floor and work my way up. In getting her ready to move last week, I wanted to make sure all the fluids were good as I never had this thing driving from when I got it last October. I was able to get the engine to start and run well. The 4 speed would go into gear and it felt like I had engagement with the clutch. First off was a rebuild of the brakes, single master to dual. All new lines and brake components. When I was bringing her home in Oct. I noticed one of the rear hard lines split and lost all the fluid. So in Feb I started the brake job and just got everything dialed in. Was hoping to check fluids and go for a drive. Got to the 4 speed and the fluid looked like a milkshake and was making an awful noise. Dropped it last week and she looked pretty bad inside with all kinds of grit and sludge. Also the original radiator was leaking bad, so I ordered a new aluminum one. took the Muncie apart and started looking at everything, she was going to need a rebuild. I had never attempted this before, but willing to learn. The gears looked good so I just ordered a normal rebuild kit. Finished this on Saturday and got it back in the car. I also rebuilt the Hurst shifter and gave it a good cleaning.With the addition of the radiator and some mods, I ran out of time for a test drive, so hopefully next week!.

 

What aluminum radiator did you get for it?

 

I used one off of *Bay. It is a model 284 for a 1963-1966 Chevy C-10 truck. Other numbers are CU284, DPI284, 0284AA, CC284, This had the right dimensions to fit the 65 core support. I did have to remake the saddles for the bottom support and bend the tabs open on the upper plate. If you have a 65 it will fit with minor mods. On my 1964 cutlass, I had to drop the lower support channel 2" by welding in some new side plates, then could only use the rubber saddles without any metal keepers. Again the top plate also had to be expanded. The tanks measure about 2 5/8" wide and will not fit the factory saddles. I used rubber saddles from In-Line tube and made U-brackets out of 1" strap.

 

With the build nearing completion I needed a front plate for the car as I didn't want to run my personalized plate up front. I looked on line for some pre made plates, but didn't see any I really liked. I looked at some past logo's and pieced one together. We had purchased a vinyl cutter a few years back for my daughter's school project, so I set out designing and cutting out the chosen logo. I bought some plastic license plate blanks awhile back and figured the black would be the best. Here is the completed plate on the 64!

 

Got her moving under her own power today with a rigged up fuel supply. Was able to get her out from the side yard and into the driveway for a good bath. She hasn't moved under her own power for many years. I'm having a problem with the trans going into 2nd. I think its just an adjustment as it will go under no load. Was fun to drive her, but man, a gallon of gas doesn't go to far in her. Here are a few photos of her out enjoying the CA sun.

 

car looks solid, .is that the original shifter boot? I need one like that.any source?

 

This one matched the one that was in the car. I found it at Fusick. They list it as a 1966-69 Non Console boot. It looked and fit the same. I noticed that the Hurst shifter in my car pulls on the boot in 1st and 3 rd, like it needed a little more room towards the top. It does fit the curvature of hump really well, Had to move a few holes to match my retainer, but they are covered by the boot.

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....mber=SS6661KIT

 

thanks

 

So I finally got the 64 put back together after the driveshaft decided to be free. Had a new one built and re-installed along with new exhaust. Figured it was along weekend, so I would get the 65 442 out and move it to the garage for the rust repair phase. I found a correct Muncie 1325 M20 to replace the one that is in it now. That will get installed once I pull the drivetrain to clean it up. Engine seems to be good, so I'm hoping I won't need a full rebuild at this time. Had them together in the driveway so I figured it was time for a few photos. Enjoy the Holiday!

 

 

Thanks. Just got this today. I'm finding as I get older I'm dropping a lot more tools. I can use all the protection I can Get!

 

Those early A-Body Olds are great buggy's, especially the "post cars" Nice work.

 

Well it's been a while since I posted to my own thread so I figured I would update it. With the 64 back together after throwing the driveshaft out, I started on the trunk rust in the 65 442. The trunk pan was actually in really good shape, but had rusted out around the fender wells and the bracing. Started on the drivers side and working across. Got the bad areas removed and started putting in new metal. Trying to figure out the center section as it's different than the original. I think I'll just trim around the original so I don't have a third inspection plate in the middle. Taking some vacation this week, so I hope to have it all trimmed out by the weekend.

 

Made a little head-way last weekend on the trunk. Have all the bad cut-out and starting to fit and rebuild with the new pieces. One interesting thing I found was that the replacement floor stampings are not the same as the original. The 65 pan had no center drain hole except for a small rubber plug. The new one had a center cover in it. I was able to save the original center section and graft the new pan in place. I have a few days this week, so I'm hoping to have most of the pan tacked into place by the weekend. We'll see how it goes!
Attachment 210892Attachment 210893Attachment 210894Attachment 210895Attachment 210896

 

Yeah back when I put new floors and trunk pans in used 64-65 GTO parts and the seams and creases did not match. But when you weld it all in, seam sealer, and carpet its all good. I also had to replace all the braces too..

 

Looks like it came out great. Kinda knew what I was in for after doing the trunk on my 64. It was amazing that the lower brace at the body mounts rusted clean through, but I was able to remove both body mounts by the back bumper with ease. They came out intact and no penetrating spray was needed. I guess the salt and water just sat at the lowest point.

 

Hey Robski! I saw in the photos you posted it looks like you had to replace the trunk panel below the back window? This is my next task after the trunk. I have a great donor panel, just not sure how to tackle it? Did you remove the old panel via spot welds and then fit the new panel? I think I will be able to keep the original package shelf and spit the trunk panel at the body/fender seams, Just wondering if you had any tricks, since you've been through this before?
Thanks,
Spo

 

Looks like your coming along well. I also had to replace both doors, rear deck, the body panel between the tail lights and the left front fender. Run to Rund-Joe brought the parts in from a yard in Arizona, rust free stuff to our Olds Zone Show years ago. Thanks again Joe...

 

I did remove the million spot welds, some the attached pictures show where I marked in black were the spot welds were and in one picture on the rotisserie shows it all spot welded back. Once I removed the remains of the deck panel I wire wheeled and cleaned most of the surface rust off and if you noticed I sprayed Eastwood's black Rust Encapsulator so it will not stop rusting. ( even though when you put the new deck panel over it, you will never see it again that's just me and how I do things) Now on each end of the deck panel notice the smooth seam between the deck panel and the fender? I believe that is filled with lead. I used a wire wheel to clean that out. Make dang sure you have mask on and eye protection. Does the underside of your car have under coating?

 

Thanks! That's what I thought I was in for. When I removed the donor panel, I took the whole piece including the package tray, I'm hoping that the spot welds will be in the relative same place. Not much undercoating on the 65. Wheel wells have some but the floor pans are pretty clean. I figured for a NY car it would have been sealed, but maybe it was better without it from trapping all the road salt and water. Eventually the plan is to frame off this one when I retire in 3 years and can set it up at my shop when I move. Hopefully by then I will have a lift in place and plenty of room. Thanks again for the photos, I can go back to these when needing guidance!
Spo

 

I am down sizing next year selling this house and the shop with the lift. I have the option to retire next May but things are going very well at work, so I'm going to keep going until that changes. Glad I could help

 

Hey Steve - Took me several years to piece together all the correct red interior parts. Can y ou let me know what red paint codes/manufacturers you used for the interior paint as well as the steering wheel please? Thank you. Paul

 

Hi Paul,
I used the GM restorations paints that The Parts Place sells. They are matched to the PUI interior colors. Check eBay for their listings.
I haven't ordered in a few years, but I think they still list them.
Steve

 

Old thread but still great info!! Thanks for posting. How are your cars doing now??

 

Cars are doing well. Had fun at Hot August Nights this year. The Rallye went home to the previous owner, down to 2 to take care of. Thanks for asking!