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I had my car dipped in alkaline and sprayed with an epoxy primer. The wheel wells are back of the trunk pan are much worse than I thought. I am on the hunt for the entire rear quarter panel assembly including the wheel wells and the trunk pan for a 1956 4 door 88. I had some parts from a 1954 which were much different and did not line up. I realize it's probably going to be impossible to get ahold of a clean car, but I can try.
The body shop has been requesting I get the hardware to mount the hood so they can check the fitment. What are the minimal panels I'll need to support the front of the hood in the engine bay? It's been about 6 years since I initially took everything apart.
I had the upholstery professionally redone. I was especially impressed with the custom design when the shop wrapped those plastic covers on either side of the front seat.
This car was driven in the Midwest until it was stored in the mid-70s..and it shows. The body shop I'm working with suggests I try and find another 1956 4 door sedan to do a rear clip, if anyone is aware of any please let me know. I have found out the hard way I can't use the metal from a 1954, or even a model 98 of the same year.
Have you tried to find a 56 Buick as a donor? I don't know about a 56 but many body parts on a 55 will interchange. I know doors and windshields swap and convertible top parts also, worth a check and may open up a new source... Tedd
Have you tried to find a 56 Buick as a donor? I don't know about a 56 but many body parts on a 55 will interchange. I know doors and windshields swap and convertible top parts also, worth a check and may open up a new source... Tedd
It's a good thought. I haven't though. I have a couple of leads right now I'm going to check out.
Last edited by Ihatefiberglass; December 31st, 2021 at 05:30 PM.
These pictures are from the passengers side where the bottom of the front fender meets the rocker panel. You can see how the bottom of the fender does not exactly line up with the bottom of the rocker panel. Was this how it came from the factory? I had these fender repaired so maybe that's why it's not lining up flush?
Your work is looking great. Good luck on finding a donor rear clip, it looks like you need it.
I’ve hired the local body shop to do the body work since my welding and body work skills are very poor. Also I don’t want this to be a practice car, I have a 1980 wagoneer for that. I think I found a potential donor, I’m going to check it out and see if it’s worth my while to bring back. Stay tuned, I’m going to need everyone’s help putting this car back together, I started taking things apart in 2015.
Also I have recently ordered the chassis and body parts manual for 1956 Oldsmobiles, so that should help.
I hope your local bodyshop is experienced in advanced sheet metal fabrication! Where I live, NJ, a regular shop couldn't even do a half *** job on that sort of damage. They just do not do that kind of work, nor do they have the sheet metal forming machines/tools to even attempt to do a good job. If they've done good work on antique cars before, and you've seen the work (esp. 3-5 years after it was done), then you should be comfortable with them doing a good job.
I hope your local bodyshop is experienced in advanced sheet metal fabrication! Where I live, NJ, a regular shop couldn't even do a half *** job on that sort of damage. They just do not do that kind of work, nor do they have the sheet metal forming machines/tools to even attempt to do a good job. If they've done good work on antique cars before, and you've seen the work (esp. 3-5 years after it was done), then you should be comfortable with them doing a good job.
You're right. This isn't any old shop trying to turn cars around as fast as possible. They only got popular through word of mouth specializing in vintage cars. I have been working with their metal fabricator and I'm very impressed. They could rebuild the entire back end of the car for me but obviously it would cost a small fortune so I'm looking at doing a rear clip.
The body shop fit the hood and is having problems getting it perfect. Perfect would be great but I don't think it's realistic. My hood had two rust scars on either end where the 2 sheets of metal came together. I guess that's pretty common because the weep holes would often clog and water would get trapped between the two sheets of metal. The two pieces of metal had to be separated with quite a bit of metal cut out before replacement metal was welded in. It looks nice though! I also know this car ran into a tree in the 1970s sometime which is why the original bumper did not sit correctly. In addition to that, both front fenders needed metal work, I would guess all the metal work the body panels needed ever so slightly changed the shape of the hood and fenders.
I am on the hunt for 2 rims that will fit a 1956 Oldsmobile. I’m doing a disc brake conversion for the front so what rims will I need that will clear the calipers? Also what are the threads for the current wheel studs I have? 1/2-20 ?
I am on the hunt for 2 rims that will fit a 1956 Oldsmobile. I’m doing a disc brake conversion for the front so what rims will I need that will clear the calipers? Also what are the threads for the current wheel studs I have? 1/2-20 ?
Just curious what front disc brake conversion you’re putting in your 56. I saw that Kanter Automotive advertises a full kit including replacement booster.
Finally found a donor car in Colorado, did a rear clip, taking it to the dippers tomorrow. It looks very solid but we'll see what shape it's in after an alkaline bath. I am parting the rest of the car out. If anyone should be interested in parts or the rest of the car email 56oldsparts(at)gmail.
Just curious what front disc brake conversion you’re putting in your 56. I saw that Kanter Automotive advertises a full kit including replacement booster.
i'm assuming your new brake set up will replace the left-hand studs with right-hand studs on the left side as they are left-handed threads as of now also, and it would be a shame, and confusing for it to have only one wheel with a left-hand stud(left rear) This is probably just a useless afterthought, but I thought I would bring it up just in case.. Good work and looking good to boot.. Tedd
i'm assuming your new brake set up will replace the left-hand studs with right-hand studs on the left side as they are left-handed threads as of now also, and it would be a shame, and confusing for it to have only one wheel with a left-hand stud(left rear) This is probably just a useless afterthought, but I thought I would bring it up just in case.. Good work and looking good to boot.. Tedd
I haven't gotten that far yet, I've only dropped off the rear clip to be dipped today. I would very much like the chassis back so I can do brakes and exhaust but the body shop needs it. It's a good thought though.