Hi, is the dashpad from a 72 cutlass interchangeable with a 71? is the 442 one the same as the Cutlass S one, convertible versus hardtop etc. any problems there? got a line on a 72 replacement in the colour i need, want to know if it will go on my 71 dash. don;t know if it came off an S or a 442.

 

In the vast majority of the cars, the dash pads are all the same from 1970-72. If one car had AC & the other didn't, only the vents & center block off plate are different. Both the vents & the block off plate are easily switched between the two pads. The only thing to beware of is if one car is a post car with out AC. Those dash pads had NO vents in the ends or center. Those cars are pretty rare & I doubt that is what you will find though.

 

thanks, that's what i figured they look identical between the two years.

next question (which i've tried to find the answer to on this site) can the dashpad be removed without removing the entire dashboard unit? i know its difficult, a bugger to put back on.

 

Just what you said, It can be done, but not easy or quick. Might be easier to remove the hood & engine & cut the windshield & complete fire wall out for easier access.
If I remember right, the 1/4" screw that is to the right of the gas gauge is the hardest to access, the others aren't to bad.

 

Hilarious, but true!

 

THREE years, actually (1970, 71, and 72 are all identical)

Not sure what you mean by "entire dashboard unit". The metal part of the dash is welded in place. The pad and plastic lower section typically come out together. It may be possible to remove the pad and leave the plastic part in place, but I've never seen it done that way. In fact, while it sounds like a lot of work the easiest thing might be to pull the dash pad, lower plastic part, and IP harness (including the fuse block) as one unit. That's how it's installed and many of the harness connections and tiedowns on the backside of the dash are a bear to reach when you're upside down under the dash. Of course you need to disconnect the firewall connector from the engine side of the firewall first, but that may be easiest in the long run.

 

The right side of the dash pad is the easiest to remove the securing nuts on. Remove the glove box and vents to get access to the studs more easily.

As Joe mentioned, and I found out the hard way at the boneyard, the harness is attached to the lower dash which is also connected to the dash pad. The wiring harness to the fuse block - be careful as some of the connectors to the aux lighting and body options need to be undone before unbolting removing the fuseblock.

Conservatively - give yourself at least 5 hours to do the dash pad. And take plenty of breaks when you start to feel frustrated.

BTW the DS of the dash pad has one stud that does not have a nut on it. It uses a pressure clip to hold the stud, and can just be popped out with a tug.
see this link to see that location

The issue of removing the dash has been discussed many times on CO, but here is a link to some great pics from John McNeel (2blu442) showing the stud locations on these dashes. 70-72 Cutlass Dash removal You can also see the dash attachment locations in the 70-72 Cutlass Assembly manuals.

 

Good advice from Allan. I'll just add that while in my younger days I would hang my feet over the seatback with my head under the dash, today it's MUCH easier to simply remove the front seat and lay on the floor.

 

It's like you were with me at the boneyard!! But I think that really only works well with bench cars.

Couple of last things I think are really worth mentioning about dash removal because it's so easy to break some things.

1. Work in a really nicely warmed garage or shop because that's when you'll put the least amount of stress on the plastic that holds the dash studs. It makes it uncomfortable for you, but it's less likely you'll damage anything. In cold/cooler temps the aged plastic parts will be very brittle.

2. There's likely a LOT of dust and falling apart in cabin insulation behind the dash that can fall down and make seeing/breathing awkward. Wear safety glasses/breather mask and a NON corded trouble light. I found using a magnetic trouble light allowed me to work with both hands and actually see what I was doing quite well.

3. You may find a stud nut that is almost impossible to get at. DON'T get frustrated. The one that really caused me grief was just to the left side of the AC controls. The nut had been installed by a contortionist and partly angled the stud during the install. Patience paid off though with the help of a 1/4" deep socket drive and universal joint.