So I swapped out my old deluxe wheel for the 4 spoke wheel kit from PP. My question is this. After the hub and wheel are put on you put the contact ring on (has L shape that sits on white horn button). I don't know how this works cause when i screw down the contact ring there is literally no play once the button is on. Is that right? My horn doesn't work as of now but i used to be able to hear the button click. It seems that now the contact which is flush to the wheel will not move if i press button. And when i get it to work i think it will just constantly blow because the L shape is already pushing down the button. I read where some guys are talking about a spring that goes around it but that wasn't there when i took off old one. Is that what im missing? Or do you not screw the contract ring flush with steering wheel?

 

got any pics???

 

I had a similar problem when I made the same switch. My horn would not work. I finally fixed it by running a jumper ground wire fron the nut to one of the 3 screws attaching the contact, then it worked fine. I strruggled for hours until I touched a screw driver between the nut and the contact and the horn blew. After market contact not quite right?

Try grounding the contact to the nut.

I had purchased all the parts from Fusick to mount the original 4 spoke wheel and collar. The other issue I have is the Olds Rocket on the button doesn't line up straight. If I turn it, the button pops off. I think the screw heads might be slightly too tall and interfere with the button being able to be turned.

 

Leroy: I assume this is for your 70 Cutlass?
Step 1. The horn contact (the round unit with the L shaped tab - call this contact A) is installed with three screws, and the L shaped tab pushes on the contact that is extending through the hub (call this contact B).
Step 2. The horn button (the part with the rocket logo) has three cutouts on its rim. These must line up with the three screws holding the horn contact, or else there will be no play for the button to depress the contact ring. Note that the horn works by grounding the contact A, not by just pushing on the contact B.

Note that the rocket logo may not be straight, or may be upside down, when the wheel is straight.

 

Peter you are correct this is for my 70. I get your description totally now. The dependency of clicking contact B has been removed now with the new horn button. I have to double check the horn button then as I "think" its over the screws but i still dont get the play I thing would suffice for honking the horn. But you did eliminate my concern about the L tab being done all the time.

Thanks everyone!!!

 

Leroy, I now seem to remember having an issue with the new horn contact even when lined up properly. I ended up reusing my old contact. I think the important part is make sure the button is both positioned properly and also fitted in the retainer properly.
Lets us know how it turns out.
What are you going to do with the old delux wheel?

 

The entire steering column from the lower shaft to the horn contact is keyed or marked so that it only goes together one way. If you don't have things lined up right, it won't work right. For example, there is a scribe mark on the end of the steering shaft that should be straight up with the wheels forward. This locates the plastic post in the cancel cam in the correct place so that the steering wheel hub also goes on correctly. This also aligns the horn contact ring (the "L") so that the horn cap goes on with the emblem oriented correctly.

 

Pete,
I'm going to clean it up a bit and probably sell it with a bunch of other stuff i have.

 

Great. Were you able to get the horn working?