I rounded up most of the goodies for the stereo install. I went with a Custom Autosound USA 630 for a few reasons. Some of the features I was looking for and the 630 delivers are: Don't have to modify(cut) the dash, USB and auxillary input for Ipod, two pairs of RCA outs for adding amplifiers and subwoofers, OEM(kinda) look.

The radio came with chrome center **** and black outer which was too small to cover the factory hole. I modified my larger factory chrome outer ***** to fit. Covers the holes and looks closer to stock.

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I also went with Custom Autosounds kick panels. I bought them without speakers because I already had a couple of pairs of 6.5's. The finish on the panels is very shiny black. I scuffed them up and sprayed them with SEM Landau Black so they would match everything else in the car. I installed a pair of shallow mount Kenwoods. There is only 1 3/4" clearance behind the panels. Parking brake clearance was not a problem with these speakers.

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My rear piston/ashwells were already cut for 4" speakers. I moved the holes forward (to clear the top pistons) and enlarged them for 6.5's. I installed a pair of Polk Audio 6.5's. The grills were silver so I shot them with SEM to blend with the interior.

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The sound is good. I will add an amp and some subs later to help the bottom end, but not too bad as it is.

 

Cool,

I bet they can hear ya coming in Clemson

 

The USB and Aux input are great features on this radio. You can load music files on a memory stick and play them with this unit. It allows you to navigate through folders to play the songs you like. It also has a input for Ipod or Mp3 player, I may actually get one of those one day.

The USB/Aux wires attach to the a back of the unit. I opted to run the wires up and out through the "ash" tray. I cut holes in the bottom for the wire to pass through and put rubber grommets around them to keep change, etc from falling behind the dash. Keeps everything hidden and looking neat.

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I get alot of comments on the car around here because of the color. People assume I'm a Clemtard fan, but I'm a Carolina (South) fan. Gotta get me some Gamecock magnets for the doors

 

I hope you got low-depth speakers for the piston covers, as there is only 2" available clearance. The pistons cylinders move when operating the top and if the the speakers are hit, the cylinder brackets will be bent. This happened to the PO of Lady. The brackets were repaired when the top was replaced and speaks were left out.
I got some 1.75" deep ones and they fit great.
If in doubt, bull the rear ashtrays and look inside while someone else slowly runs the top up and down.

Looks nice though. I was thinking of getting this same model for Lady.
Did the large chrome rings / ***** come with the radio?
Does the USB feature have random play??
How's it sound? What amp are you running?

 

I remembered seeing the clearance issue from one of your previous posts. So I measured, checked, remeasured, checked again before I enlarged the holes. I moved them forward of the previous location and the pistons clear.

No, the large chrome rings were from the original radio that I found in the trunk, I modified them to fit (enlarged the hole so they would fit on the shaft). The center chrome ***** came with the new radio, the outers were black and too small which I did not like.

Yes, it will random play.

The sound is good, but the 6.5's are lacking in the low end, and as you know that 240 watt claim on the box is a farce. The real test will be highway speeds with the top down. I haven't installed amp(s) yet but will most likely go with a good 4 channel to run the 4 6.5's and I have a Fosgate Punch 150 and a set of Bazooka Bass tubes to go in the trunk for the lows. In my old(er) age I'm not interested in loud, I just can't deal with distortion.

 

Great - glad you kept the clearance issues in mind. Hated to see yout top mechanism get messed up.

I dowloaded the manual to that radio and it gave no hint that it would random play - does you manual show how to do it? I am wondering if the manual I got was outdated. I would have hated to order and find out that I can only listen to 999 songs in order.

An amp would be beneficial. I have a real 50wx4 RMS unit which does great, even doing 80 with the top down. 240W is as big as a politician's lies... Not sure why mfr's can still advertise like that.
18W per channel is the most you could get from just a 12V radio without a switching power supply. Even then current would be limited.

Looks like I need to obtain those big chrome rings for when i get a new radio.
Thanks!

 

Rob, I stand corrected. Played with the radio a little more yesterday. The unit does not have random play. But, you can set up folders (whole albums, your own mixes, etc) so all the songs aren't all piled together. That way you aren't navigating through 999 songs, just through the folders you set up.

 

How do you like the 630 now that you've had it for a while? I am thinking on getting one for my 72 Convertible. Do you look at the UndercoverII speakers? I was trying not to cut holes in the rear piston area.

 

Wow, this is a surprise! Im actually getting rid of my 630. Just sold it yesterday. All I need to do is box it up and bye-bye. I did not like the 630 at all! In my opinion it was rather cheap. The unit was very light weight, there was no remote control, and the USB port only worked for a few days before it started cutting in and out. I called CAS and they recommended me to send it back for repair. I only bought it 2 months ago. So I decided to take it out and sell it instead. I am now looking at a unit from Retro Sound Radio.

 

You saved me a lot of time and effort, thanks. Hope you get a better unit.

 

I sent my original stereo out and had it retro fitted with Kenwood internals and an Ipod connection. I realized that I would never get the clarity out of this system that I am looking and ordered a repro 8 track housing from forum member Randy. I fitted the housing with a Kenwood Excelon KCD-X794 deck that has 3 sets of RCA connections for front, back and subwoofer connections as well as an Ipod connection. I have install 6.5 Polk's in my front kicks which required shortening the parking brake pedal by one inch to clear the speaker grill. I plan on putting removalble book self speakers on the rear seat (Polk Atrium's)as well as an amp with subwoofer inside the trunk. The rear speakers can be disconnected at shows and put in the trunk if desired. I also are not looking for loud as much as clarity. I am at the end of finishing a six year body off restoration on a numbers matching car and coming very close to the first test drive. I currently have ran a 4 ga. wire from the battery back to the trunk as well as the RCA interconnects and remote wire. Just trying to get done what needed so that I don't have to pull the interior apart again later on. The rest of the stereo will completed after the top and interior is installed. The pic's shows the head unit with the face plate removed and the red 4 ga. wire routed thru the existing engine compartment wire harness clips.

Dave

 

I have the same housing but ran my power wire under the sill plates and through the firewall and betwwen the fender so there is no sign of a wire except right where it exists to the battery post. I mounted my 5 channel amp in the rear seat and very happy with it. Out of sight, not too hot (external fan will be added) I replaced the dash speaker with 2 infinity 3.5s and the infinity 6.5 component speakers in the kics. Sounds good on the freeway and top down. I will be adding a hidded sub in the trunk as well.

Pictures are in my thread "Interior gutted with questions" on pages 4 and 5 I believe

 

It works fine and sounds pretty good. I like the USB input. The unit is light and therefore feels a little cheap. Of course the power rating is way overrated, but it does have front and rear RCA outs so I could (and probably will) add amps and a sub later.

 

If you do, someone around there will surely "Key" it!

--Don

 

Added the pictures of my install. My goal was good sound and not cut anything

 

Couple more

 

Nice clean installation. I also ran the power wire from the trunk, under sill plate and thru the fire wall. Once inside the engine compartment, I threaded it thru the wire harness clips. since the power wire was red, it don't stick out like a sore thumb. Since I knew I was going to have the sub in the trunk, I'm thinking of mounting the 5 channel amp right to the sub enclosure and possibly a capacitor. I will probably build a MDF box and specle paint it like the trunk. I also have to decide on either book self speakers or a set of 6x9 enclosures for the back seat that will have bannana jacks for easy removal. I have a pearl interior and leaning to the Polk Atriums that come in white.

 

fjross, Forme no need for rear speakers as I have the dash set to fronts and the kicks set to rear. Unless you have people always in the rear seats they may not be needed. I am selfish so as long as I can hear the sound I am ok and if the kids are in the rear they can listen to there ipods I did the 5cannel amp on purpose so I have the sub channel as well. I will have some mdf boards built into the trunk right on the sides where the quarter/trunk drop offs are and but the sub in there. Will also keep anything that may be in the trunk from slidding into the inside of the quarter.

 

So you get decent sound in the front with just the kickers and the dash speakers? I agree with you, don't care much about the back. I just want to hear it with the top down.

 

Yes, mine is pretty loud and very clear. Nice sound with the top down and 70 on the freeway

 

How did you get the original kickpanel off the drivers side ? I 'm working on mine and I can't get to the last screw. Also, mine is a non-air car and the kickpanels appear to have a flange molded in so I can't get it out. I would rather not destroy them.

Brent

 

I attached a pic of my original kicks which shows the screw locations. They shouldn't be hard to get to.

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As for removing the panel you will need to remove the sill plate, and the two screws in the panel. Slide the panel forward to release it from the pinch weld in the door jam. Work it forward and it should slide out, you will have to flex it a little. Just go slow so you don't crack the panel.

Hope this helps

 

Yours is an A/C car. Mine is not. The originals are a different beast with the vents . I 'll take apic tonight and post my dilema.

Brent